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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    in all the remotes and reprogram all of them. After three years, I'd suspect that the batteries are a bit worn.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I have about 40K on my 99 Silverado Z-71.

    Since starting to work out of my home (and also buying a new car) - I don't drive the Z-71 that much.

    About 4 months ago I noticed a small clunk in the driveline - I would hear it when I stopped and then again when I took off. It seemed louder when cold.

    I stopped by the dealership and was told that the driveshaft should have been lubed at 30K - so I was over due. They lubed the driveshaft and the clunk went away. Problem solved. In the 4 months since then I have only driven about 1,000 miles - this morning the clunk is back - same as before.

    I don't see how letting a truck sit would cause this problem, -

    Anyone know of a fix?

    How easy is it to lube a driveshaft?

    The dealer did not charge me or even write up a ticket when they lubed the driveshaft 4 months ago - So I have no "warranty" coverage.
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    I had a similar problem in my 2001 several months ago. I had an occasional clunking/jolting sound/feeling from the back end of the truck when braking and almost stopped, or when releasing the brake from a stop.
    The Dealer replace the yoke in the drive line with an upgraded one. Warranty covered the cost. The problem is 100% gone.
    -David
  • I know this has been discussed in the past, but can anyone tell me if it is necessary to raise the the body to replace the 245's. I asked the service manager at the local dealer and he said you might have to tweak the torsion bars. a friend said you need a 1 inch spacer in the rear and raise the front with the torsion bars 1 inch.
    any advice?
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    I dont think you should have to raise anything. I have a 01 silverado 4x4 with 285s on it, didnt have to raise it at all. I did raise the torsion bars, but not cuz i had to, did it to get a level ride height.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I don't understand - the clunk is gone. I drove about 50 miles on Wednesday . Hauled some heavy junk - Drove truck yesterday and today and the clunk is gone.

    Not sure why - maybe it just needed to work a little!

    I have seen more than a dozen 1500HD and at least 50 2500HD Silverados with 265 75 16 tires. On both stock and after market wheels. These ties will fit without any modifications.
  • I recently purchased an 02 Silverado 1500HD 6.0 litre and love it. The truck has a full cap on it and I would like to be able to lock it up tight.I carry a lot of equipment and tools in it for my job.
    The existing lock is on the cap only and seens to be pretty badly corroded and it is not very secure.
    If anyone knows of a solid fix to this problem please let me know.
  • Kirstie@EdmundsKirstie@Edmunds Posts: 10,674
    A newspaper reporter aims to interview people who are dealing with vehicle recalls, especially of GM products, such as the recent problems with the back gate on the pickups. Please send your daytime contact info to farataye@yahoo.com or jfallon@edmunds.com by Wednesday, April 7, 2004. Thanks, Jeannine Fallon PR Director Edmunds.com

    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • gpabbottgpabbott Posts: 1
    Goodmorning: Sunday morning May 9th 2004

                   I just bought a new Chevy Silverado 2500 H D
    I have always owned Ford's 1973,1984,1995 and the
    last one was a 1999 F 250 lariat, I got a deal I could not
    refuse. I have a question that is trivial (maybe).
                   I bought locking wheel lug nuts for it, I put them
    on yesterday, I noticed that there is a space now in the
    hub cap where I took off the regular plastic lug nut cover
    it will not fit over the lock. How much trouble can moisture
    getting in under the hub cap cause me. I was thinking of
    taking the caps off and duct taping the inside of the caps
    to hold excess moisture out. Any suggestions ?

                                           Thanks Al :

                                                           GPABBOTT itshimagain@juno.com
  • We recently purchased a 2004 Silverado with the
    5.3 engine. The air compressor makes a clunking
    sound when it is turned on at low speed. Chevrolet indicates there is nothing they can do.
    It is a redesigned compressor. This is another
    instance of GM not getting it right. I have had
    it with them; unfortunately for the USA the next
    vehicle we buy will be a Toyota.
  • chevy4lifechevy4life Posts: 20
    My '00 1500 4x4 has a problem w/ the gas gauge: when idling in park, the gauge will go from an accurate reading and shoot up to full and then down to empty and sit there. Once I put the truck in motion, it corrects itself.
     
    Anyway, I took it to my local dealer and they told me that I needed a new sender unit (which is in the gas tank). They said it was $400 for the part and $150 to install it= $550! I told them no thanks. When I got home, I crawled under the truck, and the tank still had mud all over it - they hadn't even dropped it to look, but they did charge me $80 to tell me it would be $550 to fix.

    As if that wasn't suspicious enough, they said my throttle body needed cleaning...Now I am quite familiar when it needs cleaning, as the gas pedal will stick firmly and you have to mash the gas pedal to get it unstuck (a potentially dangerous situation). I clean it myself from time to time; takes about 5 minutes to do. It didn't need cleaning!

    Finally, they wanted $250 to do the rear brakes (new pads).

    While I am not up to date on new cars, I did spend two years of high school in an automechanics course, so I know a few things. I guess if I was an uninformed customer, I'd be getting swindled.

    Oh, I did the brakes myself: $34 for pads and $40 to turn the rotors. $74 vs. $250.
  • ggregory2ggregory2 Posts: 1
    I own a 97 Chevrolet p/u 4X4 with a 5.7 L engine. At 42K a misfire began to occur. After numerous tries at resolving it, a mechanic found that the lifters were collapsing. I ended up having all of the lifters replaced to correct the problem. Even with new lifters, I still got a lot of lifter chatter at cold start. To remedy this, my mechanic had me add a quart of mystery oil and this seems to have cured the problem. One important item: if you or anyone removes the distributor from these vehicles, make sure that you follow the steps to correctly "phase" the distributor. If you don't, the timing will be way out causing a hot engine misfire.
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 611
    The fuel sending unit problem can be diagnosed without pulling out the fuel tank. The computer system can be tapped by the dealer's computer and see that no signal (or a wrong signal) is being sent by the fuel level sending unit. Dropping the tank takes longer than $80 worth of labor.
    On the throttle body cleaning thing, they may do recommendations based on mileage. We had a tech working here for awhile who did that. He'd see 50k on the odometer and make a list. I had to weed through the list before presenting it to the customer.
    You saved most of your money on the brake deal by doing them yourself, you saved labor $. The pad price you give is not a GM price, so you saved money buying aftermarket. They weren't scamming, they were using regular charges based on GM parts and their own hourly labor rate.
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Don't forget that the labor rate charged is directly from their "book" on how long manf. says it should take to do job. Then there is the real world where the proficient mechanic cuts the time in half but the dealer still charges the "book rate" based on the job. This is where the inequity in the system and customer deception comes to play.
    I have a friend who works for Honda as a mechanic and he gets the "book rate" for job whether he gets it done on time or ahead of time. To me that is a rip off of the consumer. Say you have a particular job done and book rate says 5 hrs., job is completed in 2 hrs. by mechanic but the customer is still charged for the job based on book rate. It's hard to trust dealers or repair facilities that do this and believe me there are more that do then don't.

    Just my 2 cents.

    Ray T.
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 611
    I agree. Book time should only be used as a guide. We go more with actual time spent working on a vehicle than book time, unless a customer calls in asking 'how much will it cost?' without looking at the vehicle first. Then we yank out the old 'Motors' manual and start looking up labor. Book time can also hurt the mechanic, especially on driveability or wiring issues. It may take 5 minutes to replace a sensor, but it took the guy 2 hours to be sure that's all it needed.
    In the case of this guy with the fuel sender, $150 doesn't sound bad, if the labor rate is $60 or $75. The part price doesn't sound too far off, either.
  • chevy4lifechevy4life Posts: 20
    I know about book rate. I think it's in the dealers' and mechanics' favor more often than not, though.

      I know everyone has to make a living, but IMO, there's something fundamentally wrong, when something as benign as a fuel sender costs $400! This isn't a Boeing 777; it's not rocket science. It shouldn't cost that much. I refuse to cave-into car companies' ploys of teching-out the car to the point where it's just one big friggin' computer with four wheels.

    Sorry about my rant. Now I'm off to the junkyard to find a used sender.

    Thanks for the replys earlier.
  • 2001 2500HD,6.0, Automatic transmission. Just bought used. When accelerating truck feels like its under load. Is this normal for this truck? How does yours feel. Also, seems like there is slight slip when going from a dead stop to start. You can feel it a little.
  • I have a 2000 chevy p/u with 53000 miles on it. The other day I stoped at a red light. After turning right the truck went dead in the middle of the turn. This was the first time the truck has gone dead like that. The truck stared right up and ran fine. Then tonight I was driving started to stop and noticed the RPM,s droped to almost 0 and the brake pedal felt like it was going to the floor, the truck didn't go dead but almost did. Has anyone had this problem or have any idea what the problem might be.
  • karmakarma Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 HD 6.0 liter/auto and do not have those problems. I bought mine new however, not that it should matter. Sounds like a drivetrain problem of sorts but Im no mechanic.
  • My truck has the same problem with the gas gauge slopping around when stopped and from what I read it is the sender unit. What did you do to fix the problem. I would like to fix it myself if possible. I have heatd you ahve to drop the tank

    Also, I have had the throttle body problem. how do you clean that in 5 minutes. Is it documented somewhere?

    Thanks,
    Travis Kisner
This discussion has been closed.