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Volvo Problems--Questions/Answers Here!

2

Comments

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Procedures vary relative to model and year. The light reset information I posted is correct for 1987-93 240 models.
  • I am nearing the end of the 3 year lease on my 2000 S80. To date, it has been a very reliable car and I am think about buying it at lease termination. My only concerns is that it goes through light bulbs (specifically front headlights). In two and half years, I must have gone through 6 or 8 bulbs. Yeah, I've heard the DRL line ... however, never had that occur in my other DRL equipped cars.

    Question: should I be concerned with the electrical system of the car and NOT purchase an otherwise reliable car? Or do the light bulbs have that low of a lifespan. I have about 30,000 miles on the car.
  • I just took my 99 S80T in for a tapping noise in the engine which I assumed was maybe valves. The dealer said it was the seals in the pick-up tubes that were bad and restricting the flow of oil to the engine. So, they were replaced and when I went to pick-up the car, the same tapping noice was there. Service tech took the car back to the mechanic and 15 minutes later came back with my car and said it was the injectors making the noise. So, 1) can injectors make a tapping noise, if so should I do anything about it and 2) did they fix something that maybe did not need to get fixed?
  • The Brake light in my 2000 V40 comes on when the car gets cold, then goes off after it warms up such as spending the night in the garage. Next cold morning, it comes back on after driving a few miles. Warms up during the day, light goes back off. Fluid reservoir is full, brakes work fine. Any ideas?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Red brake warning light or amber ABS light?
  • It's the red Brake light. The ABS seems to work normally on slippery roads.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    David, 3 things provide a ground for the red brake warning light; ignition switch in bulb check position (between Run and Start where all warning lights come on), low fluid level float switch in the master cylinder reservoir, and the parking brake switch. Any chance the parking brake needs adjustment?
  • Many thanks for the quick reply. I don't think it's the parking brake, because I have a different light for that which says Parking Brake, and it comes on when I pull the lever up. I was inclined to believe it was a bad sensor of some sort. Based on your input, maybe something on the float is out of adjustment, or thermal contraction fools it into thinking the level is low. I'll look to see if I can find anything. At least that gieves me some knowledge if I have to take it to the dealer. Thanks again.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Sorry about the parking brake misinfo. Was using generic circuitry. Let us know what the outcome is.
  • Have a 97 850 with 99,000 miles...runs like a top...at 85,000 miles the ck engine light went on and had to have the air pump/relay replaced. Now 14,000 miles later it needs it again? What gives? This is a $500 repair to pass inspection!
    I'm really peeved? Any suggestions?
  • I had posted a concern #27 and haven't heard back yet. Can fuel injectors make a loud tapping noise and is there anything I can do to stop or lesson the noise? Thanks.
  • jeffryjeffry Posts: 36
    I have a '94 850 Turbo w/ 85K mi. Tho I bought it new & its been pretty reliable, lately I've been annoyed w/ the harsh, jarring ride. I'm not sure if its really any different from when new or I'm just wanting something new!

        Question: 1) At what mileage do shocks (or are they struts?) usually need replacing--not particularly rough roads or use.
         2) Are there replacements that would give a smoother ride--than when it was new?? It's obviously a 'performance' car of its day & never was smooth but maybe there are reasonably priced upgrades that would make it more enjoyable to drive until I sell it in a year or two.

               Any suggestions or experience appreciated. jeff
  • rollierollie Posts: 337
    jeffry, I highly recommend you post this message in the appropriate forum at www.brickboard.com, www.swedespeed.com, or www.vvspy.com you'll get more answers than you can handle (or you can search the archives as this topic has been covered many times before.)

    As a shortcut, you'll find mention of www.ipdusa.com in many of the posts on this topic.

    Good luck.

    -rollie
  • I own a 1990 Volvo 740 Turbo. I've had it for almost 3 years. Just this winter (its been very cold) the car is starting to act up. When I start it in the am, I let it warm up for a while and it drives good, but when I leave work, after warming for the same amount of time, it kicks and coughs, feels like its loosing power but it doesn't, and jerks. I seem to hear a small whistling sound-like a tea kettle. Then I noticed after parking some antifreeze drips out. I took it to the mechanic and he said I needed a heater core, heater coil,and a motor blower. The price quoted for this repair was around $800. Is it worth fixing?? Will I find this type of repair less expensive but of good quality??? Is this car on its way out because of its age??? I really like this car, its everything I've wanted in a car. The mechanic did a by-pass (by passed the hoses pass the heater core. I haven't been driving it, just heating it up. I would like to get it fixed, but it it worth it. Help, need some advise.
  • From posts 28 - 30. The mysterious Brake light problem was resolved by adding a little brake fluid. The level had been well above the min line on the reservoir, but perhaps my float is set high. Raised the level to about 1/8 inch above the max line, and no more Brake light in cold weather. This doesn't explain what changed to make the problem start, however, so need to keep an eye on it. Thanks for the suggesion from alcan, it put me on the right track. It's good to have someone to talk to.
  • rollierollie Posts: 337
    davefromny, here's a SWAG at a theory: the cold temperatures cause the volume of the brake fluid to decrease which leads to a larger portion of the fluid remaining in the brake lines which lowers the amount in the reservoir? Just a guess...

    -rollie
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Might be time to have the brake pads checked. As they wear, the caliper pistons move out in their bores and additional fluid volume is required in the calipers, lowering the reservoir level. Rollie's right about the fluid contracting when cold, and the fluid level was just at the cusp of triggering the float switch.
  • Yes, indeed, your Volvo injectors can make a racket. A sharp "click" just means that the injectors are doing what they are supposed to, but if the injector is loud and gives off a heavier sound it may mean you are ready for a solvent cleaning of the injectors.

    Some injector systems apparently are more susceptible to this gumming up and noise because of how the injector is placed in relation to the exhaust manifold. Heat is the big issue here.

    Your car seems to be prone to noisy injectors from the little i've read on the web searches.
  • bokenboken Posts: 3
    1999 S80 T6 with 65,000 miles on it. I have had a recurrign problem where I intermittently lose my dashboard instrumentation and all steering column functions( blinkers, washer fluid etc.) It has been fixed 3 times by the dealer saying it's a problem with the wiring through the climate control system. Bottom line it has cost my well over $2,000 and stil not fixed. What kind of recourse do I have with the dealer or Volvo?
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