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Slick 50 and Synthetics

mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
For years I've used Slick 50. Back before it was
$15 a bottle..I got it from mail order in the back
of car mags for about $60 a quart? Has it
helped?..I don't know. I can say I've had no major
engine problems in any of the cars I've driven
hard..(which is all of them)

I have a 2000 3/4 6.0 Silverado and it's got about
700 miles and ready for the first Oil change.
I've never used Synthetic..and will be using Mobil
1 5-30. Should I still use the slick 50? I
suppose i could look up slick 50's web site or
somewhere else....but I have had fun getting
answers here.

Lemme here what you have to say.

Any conflicts with synthetic and this product?

Any input would be great.

Thanks

- Tim
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Comments

  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    Lots of talk in the Maint. and Repair Conference.

    I think you have been successful in spite of your use of Slick 50.

    And the way I make my living is as a PTFE process engineer for implantable medical products.....

    I'd run 10W-30 Mobil 1 if you live where it is warm......

    I'd also wait until another oil change, and run conventional until then.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    It be cold here in Michigan. 5-30 might be a better choice. maybe 10-30 in spring/summer.

    Wait for what?....Slick 50 or synthetic?...and what's your theory?

    I know we have duked it out in past topics...perhaps we can get along here?..LOL!

    - Tim
  • bslovabslova Posts: 3
    I've used Mobil 1 for many years on six vehicles.
    I was told initially not to switch to Mobil 1 until after rings set completely. I believe in it and will use it in my 2000 Sierra after the second oil change. I read an article shortly after it first became available in which Mobil 1 was compared to conventional oils. The oil remained cleaner longer and wear was less.
  • RoclesRocles Posts: 985
    Tim,
    If anything, teflon additives kill your oil filter life and in turn causes real damage to your engine. Being a motorcycle enthuist as well as a slack-jawed roofer, ANY cycle mag will bash any additive. The teflon clogs the filter and in turn allows the debris to continue to flow in the engine. Notice how Slick 50 has backed off it's guarantees? Most manufactuers recommend against that type of additive. I'll trust Ford,GM,Honda and Harley before the snake charmers in CA selling sLICK 50.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    I figured both was overkill.

    I've heard to wait for the rings to seat...but wouldn't ya think at 750 they be seated by now?

    So I should hold off on the Mobil 1 until about 4000?.....doesn't seem right. Vette's come with it from day one?

    Anybody else have 2 cents?....I'll even take your 1 cents.

    Thanks for all so far.

    - Tim
  • RichRich Posts: 128
    mgdvhman,
    Most new vehicles come with a high chrome content rings. These can take as much as 25,000 to seat in. I would wait until your oil consumption is drastically reduced between changes before using the Mobil 1.
    Rich
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    Drastically reduced?

    It's not using any now?

    Almost 800 and still no first oil change yet...we shall see what I decide. Probably skip first change with it...but perhaps after.

    Thanks

    - Tim
  • mfreemanmfreeman Posts: 37
    I'm going to drive around 500 miles and change all fluids to synthetic. If it takes longer to break in the engine fine, but these engines have such tight tolerances that they are basicly already broken in.

    When I was dreaming of the corvette the choice was easy, redline oil through out the car. On a truck I'm thinking Mobel 1 is good enough. What do you think?

    Automatic transmission, did anyone change out the fluid after breakin. I was thinking about having them pump it out, but I don't know if I want to drop the pan on a new truck.

    What are people using in the rear dif?

    Mike

    P.S. SLick 50, I used it in my second car and the engine oil pump went out at 100,000 miles. From what I have read Dupont tried to NOT sale it's teflon to Slick 50, but Slick 50 took them to court. Dupont still says that teflon should not be used inside engines. I also read a report about Prolong which said it worked great, BUT if your engine parts were exposed to air (i.e., when you stop your engine and let all the oil drain into the pan) they would start rusting at a lot faster rate. Conclusions, what may be good for racers may not be good for Joe Public.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    Although I've always taken it easy on the break in for 500....I've been told by some that you should break it in the way you intend to drive it. Now that would be kinda harsh in my situation. Oh well..I took it easy.

    Anybody else got a theory?

    - Tim
  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    Silverado, I went thru about a qt of oil once I started womping on the motor as part of completion of break in. No oil usage since then even when operating at WOT for 15 minutes at 4,300 rpm (towing uphill from 3,000 to 7,000 ft)

    BS on the break it in the way you intend to drive it. Spend the first 1000 miles doing low power city driving.

    While I make my living understanding how to make PTFE (teflon and other brands) into salable products, I can't imagine the value of using it in an internal combustion engine except maybe as a piston skirt coating.

    I try to baby my new race bikes (come with teflon coated piston skirts) for the first tank or two, then gradually hammer on it more and more until it is fully broken in.

    mfreeman - I wouldn't worry about changing fluid, the new DexIII/Mercon stuff is almost as good as Mobil 1's old synthetic ATF. If I were to change, I would certainly drop the pan and change the filter. In fact, would rather change the filter and reuse the ATF give the choice. I have dropped many tranny pans and never had leak problems......
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    So much for waiting until 1000 miles.

    I stayed under 55 for the first 500...then hit the highway for about 120 miles at about 70-75. I've been driving highway/city..going about 55 in city..70-75 on highway. Had it up much higher to see what it feels like...but no serious ragging. About 800 or so and ready for the first oil change. Going to skip Slick 50 and go with Conventional oil for first change. May change it at 3000 still?....We will see.

    - Tim
  • RoclesRocles Posts: 985
    mfreeman,
    Good memory on the DuPont battle with Slick50. All must wonder about Slick50's claim if the actual maker doubts its use in engines.
  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    I think you have a good plan going. I did my first change at 900 miles, second change at 3000ish, and have been on the 3000 change since then. I'm doing the 9000 change this weekend, and am gonna reset the oil minder and just follow its schedule from now on. It triggered at 3,400 and then 3,600 miles later.
  • RichRich Posts: 128
    mfreeman,
    Isn't the T-Plus product made by DuPont? It's a Slick competitor.
  • f220swiftf220swift Posts: 103
    We break all motors in as we would intend to use them. Normally, after playing around for a few hundred miles, myself or a family member will hook up to the 32ft travel trailer and head to the bridge(Mackinaw Bridge). This is about a 500mi round trip and we do not baby it. I personally feel that a motor will run stronger and longer with this type of break in. Of course these are Ford trucks. One reason I like Ford motors is that they hold 6 quarts of oil. Over the life of an engine I think this makes a difference. Used nothing but Valvoline 10w30 with no problems.
  • rotorrayrotorray Posts: 42
    Per Consumer Reports, whatever oil you use make sure it bears the Petroleum Institute "star". This ensures that it meets PI's test criteria. Some oil weights do not bear this star, even from the same manufacturer. Castrol 5-30 may not have it but Castrol 10-30 does. Per CR, if it bears the star then shop for price because oil is oil after that, with minor differences in additives. Synthetics are the way to go for heavy hauling, per CR, but for the average driver extra cost does not warrant their use, especially with 3,000 oil changes. My theory is with an $8,000 engine what's a few bucks more for a quality oil like Mobil 1. Cheap insurance, for sure. Synthetics take the beating better, especially in HOT climates and towing conditions. Just let your engine break in properly (I know 'vettes come from factory with it), make the switch, and feel secure that your engine is happier. Forget Slick 50. A quality oil is ALL you need.
  • Ive used Mobil-1 for almost 20 years now. Use 15-50(red cap) in summer and 10-30(green cap)in winter. The longest time period I've used it was on a 1987 Chevy 350 fuel injected 4X4 that I bought new. I just sold it because I had the itch to buy the new 250SD diesel. It really was a great truck. Had 176,000 miles on it and it ran perfect - like new- no kidding. I changed oil at between 7500 and 10,000 miles for 13 continuous years on that truck. Buy the way, even after 13 years, there was no engine oil leaks. I usually had to add 1 more quart over the period of 10,000 miles because the oil is thin. Its been like that from day one. I will continue to use Mobil-1 on my other vehicles including air cooled lawnmowers, motercycles, etc. As far as SLICK-50, dont put it in your engine. Its a bad idea to put ANY kind of solid material into your engine oil.
  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    BTW, Mobil makes a synthetic diesel oil called Delvac 1 in 15W-40 if you are a M1 lover.....
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Have to throw in my two-cents worth. Unless you are using your truck in SEVERE service, changing the oil every 3000 miles is a bunch of HOOEY! This interval is propaganda thrown out to the public by, who else, the motor oil manufacturing industry. Read your owners manual and use the service schedule that most accurately matches your usage. The oils today are superior quality. Keep receipts for oil, filters etc. if you do your own changes. Oh well, maybe that was three cents.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    yeah....it is a crock. but it must be a crock that works. About 7500 is fine..and 10,000 for synthetic..but still we find ourself doing it at 3000. Must be the old dog-new trick thing?
    When i go past 3000 by a thousand or 2...that's why i don't worry.

    Oh well

    - Tim
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    Maybe that's why i still do it every 3000...Old Dog no like new tricks.

    - Tim
  • vince4vince4 Posts: 1,272
    It may be a bit of overkill but I think it's cheap insurance if you're going to keep your vehicle a long time. I've used 3000 mile change intervals on my 82 Honda and with 170,000 miles on it a cylinder leak-down (pressure) test gave results like a new car. For those of you that lease or get a new truck every few years, follow the recommend interval and do something else with your time.
  • RichRich Posts: 128
    In my '92 7.3L I changed the oil every 5,000. Used a 30 weight for diesels by Penzoil. The ONLY time that it used enough oil to add between changes was when I would run 1000 to 2000 miles at 80 and above. If I drove sanely 65-75 then it barely used any oil at all. This truck was going strong at 135,000 when I traded for my Super Duty.

    Rich
  • I have an '88 K3500 4 X 4 with a big block 454 V-8. I've used Mobil 1 15-50 in the summer and 10-30 in the winter with a WIX oil filter. I change oil every 10,000 mi or 1 year, whichever comes first. I now have 181,623 miles on the truck and have had no real problems. I pull a 11,000 lb 5th wheel travel trailer from time to time and that is the only time the engine uses oil. I'll use 1 quart of oil in the 10,000 mile/1year cycle. I use an additive that was recently introduced called "Prolong". I don't know what affect it will have. Time will tell. My previous truck ('72 Chev C-20 w/ 400 c.i. V-8) had 240,000 miles on it when I pulled the engine and transmission, replaced them with factory new eng/trany and my son is still driving it. He has 512,600 miles on the truck now. I'm sold on synthetic oil and auto trans fluids.
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    I just changed my oil and (on an advice from a friend)the first time ever, I used some "snake oil" (slick50). The only thing I have notice so far is a significant reduction in exhaust noise. The vehicle is a '97 Chevy K1500 with the 5/7L Vortec in it, with 65K miles.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Anyone who puts slick50 in their new engine is nuts. You would be better off throwing you money into the lotto - at least then you have a 1 in 20,000,000 chance of getting a pay back. If this stuff worked one of the auto makers would be recommending it.

    Use the weight & type of oil that is recommended in your owners manual.

    I have never seen an owners manual recommend 15W50 oil. This should only be used if you have a high mileage car the uses oil(rings are shot). It is not true that heavy oil does a better job of lubricating. In fact the opposite is true for todays engines.

    My owners manual (99 silverado 5.3) says use 5w30 as the 1st choice, 10w30 ok if temperature above??. (It also holds 6 quarts)
    The only difference between 5w30 and 10w30 will be the viscosity of the oil at cold start up. After the oil is warm they are both the same 30weight. The 5w30 does a better job at start up because it is thiner and flows easier, getting to the moving parts faster. I live in Houston and it is hotter than hell - but I still use 5w30. Most dealers in the area are 20 years behind the times - they say use 10w30 unless it is below 0 degrees. The are full of [non-permissible content removed]. The real reason they want you to use 10w30 is that is all they have in bulk and it saves them $.10 per quart.
  • jaijayjaijay Posts: 162
    Up here in north country I will be using Mobile-1 0w-30. I have used this before in a van we had. The van sat out in -10 degree weather for 10 hours before we got in it to go home. When I started it is was like the engine was sitting in a heated garage. Smooth idle, no tapping or knocking. The engine loved it. I thought for sure with the very cold weather it would have a tough time to crank over. Batteries don't like super cold weather either. However after that night I was a firm believer in the stuff.

    The lower the first number on the oil weight indicates the flow when cold. I have had no problems with the van and as soon as my 99 Silverado requires an oil change in it will go.
  • I wondered about how the 0w-30 compared to the 5w-30. I just recently purchased two 5-quart Mobil-1 jugs of 5w-30 for 14.97 at Wal-Mart (love that store!). They didn't have the 0w-30 in the
    5-quart jugs, but if they did, I would have gotten that. The winters here in northern New Mexico seldom get down below the 20's, but still the lower the viscosity at start-up the better (well, there's a limit to that, of course. It would still have to have enough viscosity to lubricate properly). Good luck!
    -powerisfun
  • Just had to add my nickel.

    I've been using it since 1975. My first new car, a 75 Chevy Monza 262 V8 4-Speed. It flew, matter of fact it still does. I have 110K miles on it now. It's now in storage. I changed the filter every 5,000 dumping the old Mobil 1 from the old filter to the new...screw it back in. Changed the oil every 25,000 miles! Yes I have changed it four times. The motor still purrs not even a lifter tic.

    This is great stuff, don't be afraid of going beyond 3,000 miles guys. Extended changes are no problem for this oil.

    I use it in everything from the lawnmower to the kitchen fan.

    I was sold long ago when one cold (-25F) morning I thought my car would never start. Well it cranked like it was in southern Calif.

    Its really amazing stuff.

    -Jim
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    25,000 miles between changes --why? If you go to the trouble of changing your filter why not go all the way and replace the oil too. I will admit when my Nissan got over 100,000 I would change the oil and not the filter to save time (this was recommended in the owners manual)

    After that many miles the oil had to be black, black black. It is not the oil that goes bad, it collects dirt & acid from normal engine operation.

    Are you concerned about voiding your warranty?

    Why spend $20,000 or more on a car/truck and then not spend $20 on normal maintenance?
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