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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jimbo92jimbo92 Posts: 20
    mileage is 55,000.5 year old.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I don't know if they do this in California, with their super strict rules about cars, but I would suggest going to an auto parts store like Advance or Auto Zone and using their free OBDII scanner. Get the codes that the scanner will pull and then post them here or google them and see what's up.

    A check engine light has nothing directly to do with telling you when to change the oil. But a scan will tell alot more than you know now. Good luck and post again with the codes!
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    jimbo92: As is normally the case, altair4 has some good advice...get a scan on this. My '02 Passat has the chronic CEL plague...getting real sick of it. A few questions/comments: With the prices you're being quoted, I'm guessing daughter is taking this to a dealership, right? I say find a trustworthy independent shop that specializes in Eurocars, either through word of mouth or blind luck through the Yellow Pages. I question the need to replace the TB at 55K...I think spec is 90K, although many owners opt for 70-80K due to the possibility of ruining the engine if belt breaks. Also, if one CV boot is bad, the other ones will likely fail soon, so get ALL of them replaced ASAP or the CV joints will go next...that means BIG dollars. vwdawg
  • jimbo92jimbo92 Posts: 20
    thanks,altair4 and vwdawg,prices and work quoted were from vw dealership in roseville,ca.she had right cv boot replaced last year under warranty,dont know if outer or inner.She has always used this dealership from the first oil change,and the service advisor suggested to replace TB/tensioner.Brakes were never done on this car.
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 843
    It is supposed to last 105K miles, and there is not time limit but I know one person who had it snapped because of age not milage.
    Still 5 years is quite early, I would wait a year or two but it is not my car and if belt snaps one needs new engine.
    MIL (check engine light) find auto part store (like Auto Zone) and many of them scan OBDII errors for free hoping that you buy parts from them.

    Krzys
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    edited May 2010
    Krzyss is right - the manual says change the timing belt at 105K miles. I've got an '03 and I'm getting mine done at 75K. I'm a low mileage kind of guy, but the belt is getting long in the tooth and I don't want to ruin the head on the engine.

    BTW, I'll be getting the water pump, belt tensioner, and thermostat done along with the other drive belts. SInce they're all in the same area, and at least somewhat related, it makes sense to get it all done at the same time.

    I'm intrigued by the recommendation to replace an inner CV boot. I have never had an inner boot go bad, on any car. They simply don't flex nearly as much as the outer ones.

    Gotta say - their prices sound high. I won't buy tires from a VW dealer - they're just not that competitive.
  • jimbo92jimbo92 Posts: 20
    She just faxed me the vehicle inspection sheet,33 point inspection,timing belt beginning to crack,TB,tensioner,dampener,gal of coolant,water pump,$1134.Front tires heavy wear,$745.Recommend outer tie rod ends ,$456.Driver side outer c.v.boot $321.Alignment,$125.Would really help if somebody knows a good vw shop around sacramento.She knows nothing about cars,she just wanted a new passat after finishing college.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    TIming Belt: For a dealer, that's probably in the neighborhood.
    Tires: Is that $745 for four or two? You can do way better at a tire shop for a name brand tire.
    Tie Rod Ends: Seems low mileage for that one. No idea on pricing.
    Driver Side CV Boot: Is the $321 for a new boot, or for a replacement half shaft? Is the boot torn open already? I had two outer boots done two years at a VW dealer for $350 (I caught them before they were open and contaminated).
    Alignment: Maybe a tad high.
  • jimbo92jimbo92 Posts: 20
    Price is for a set of four Michelin tires,mounting/balancing included,Driver side cv boot,is for cv boot only.Right side cv boot was replaced under warranty.Boot is torn according to inspection report.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I just ran a search on Tirerack.com for Michelins in 195/65-15 (stock on my Passat), with delivery, and local mounting/balancing. 4 new tires came in around $580. My personal experience is that you can probably find a local shop that will meet that price. Or you can get another name-brand like Bridgestone and $20 or more off the price of each tire.

    How far away are you from your daughter? It sounds to me like she needs a little Dad time so she doesn't get completely ripped off.
  • jimbo92jimbo92 Posts: 20
    She has a 2005 GLS sedan,1.8T,tire size 205/55-16,and she is in Sacramento,I am in Los Angeles,400 miles apart.She commutes to work 25 miles each way,5 days a week.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Just checked with my dealer - $946 for the timing belt, water pump, tensioners, rollers, the whole 9 yards.
  • jimbo92jimbo92 Posts: 20
    Hi altair4,my daughter finally found a private shop in roseville,had driver side cv boot replaced,$244,she did not tell them about the check engine light,but when she picked up her car,they told her that they checked it and reset it,if it comes on again,she will have to replace a part.They did not charge her for checking and resetting.She faxed me the bill,and work order,on it it mentions,16825 evap emission control system;incorrect flow.P0441-002-lower limit exceeded-mil on.
  • jimbo92jimbo92 Posts: 20
    she called me today,the check engine light came on again.
  • I have a 98 passat 1.8 with 84K on it.. The car has been treated like a baby and still has had nothing but problems. I bought it for a steal from my step mom to use to get me by until I could afford a new car. I have had this car for under 10k and I have replaced a clutch, both cv boots as well as joints, then eventually the whole axel when it failed the 2nd time.. I was driving on the highway yesterday at 80 mph when the car just shut off .. I limped it to the side of the road and had it towed, while trying to avoid getting killed... This is it for this car.. I am going to fix it and get rid of it, but I am wondering what could have caused this. I have read some similar problems, however, there was no over heating, no loud noises, no leaks, just pure failure.. I guess I shouldn't have been shocked when I took it into the dealer at 2pm on a friday and they told me they couldn't even look at it until next week.. but I am wondering what could have caused this. I am thankful that I could get it off the highway travel lanes, and I didn't get hurt.. but this is a serious and dangerous problem.... any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.. I am sure the dealer is going to make me have to sell a kidney to have to fix it.. but it has to run for me to sell it..
  • my03lemonmy03lemon Posts: 3
    edited June 2010
    I am experiencing the same clicking noise; specifically when turning left in the morning when the car is still warming up. I was told this could be CV boots need replaced. My car is an 03 Passat with just over 75k on it. I need to do a little shopping around....any idea what a reasonable rate would be to get this repaired. Dealer told me over $700 and I have a LAUNDRY LIST of other problems as well as my 75k service so cost is a huge concern.
    (Consumer FYI -> I have been having problems since first week of purchase...huge safety hazards, etc....I am driving around in what is considered a 'total loss' therefore can not trade it in & can not sell it cause my loan balance is so high I could buy a whole other car $$,$$$....manufacture declines any responsibility what-so-ever....proceed with caution & do your homework before you buy!)
  • You are right about the clicking.. I can almost guarantee that it is the CV joints. I myself have a similar 98 Passat that has 85k on it. I bought it because I knew the previous owner and it was babied it whole life. The second week I had it, everything started to go wrong.. I have replaced both joints, and eventually the whole front axle. That clicking will start when you are turning, then it will be spurattic all the time, then eventually if you let it go, it will go to failure and you will be really screwed. $700 is pretty legit, I got stung for a lot more than that, later learning that you don't need vw parts, there are aftermarket parts that are cheaper. Mine went at about the same mileage. Lucky me, I just dropped the timing belt ( while I was driving at highway speed) My intention was to get it fixed and then immediately get rid of it for whatever money I could get on a trade, however it has been sitting at the dealership for almost a week without them even looking at it. Of course VW has declined any sort or responsibility for anything that has gone wrong with mine the whole time I have owned it as well. I am a reasonable person, I understand things break on cars, but this passat is rediculous. And the safety issues are rediculous... unless you are a mechanic, these cars at complete lemons... good luck....
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    edited June 2010
    Just to be clear - it's not just going to be the CV boots. If it's clicking as you say, the boot is likely already torn, the grease has escaped and the joint has become contaminated. The joint will need to be replaced (in my experience, they'll just replace the entire half shaft).

    I'd check into local indie shops. You might want to consider getting a replacement from Raxles.com. I personally haven't used them, but they have an outstanding reputation around other Passat forums. They use a new joint, not a regrind.

    BTW, if the boot on one side is torn, it's likely the other side outer boot is toast or will be soon. My OEM boots were replaced at 45,000 miles, when they showed signs of cracking (but had not yet opened). So far, at 72,000 miles, the replacement boots still look good.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hello my03lemon: paddymcbride and altair4 have it right. If your CV joint has a click, it's sick. Don't waste your dough on boot replacement, as that joint will likely fail in the near future. Rebuilding the joints is also a waste of time, considering that you can buy new aftermarket CV joints for $75-$150 each (try raxles, fcpgroton, autohausaz, europartsdirect, etc.). Of course, if you buy them yourself, you'll either have to install them or find a mechanic who's willing to do the work with YOUR parts. If you want to try to install them yourself, not a terribly difficult task...check the various forums like this one...great info from those who have been there, done that. If you're not a "do it yourselfer", it's always good to establish a relationship with a quality indie shop...they may be willing to install your parts if you are a regular customer, even though that's not what they usually prefer to do. Re: that other boot...make sure you check it asap. I would say just replace it, as Passats are notorious for boot failure, and once it's cracked or torn, the crud will get into the joint and it's toast. Good luck, vwdawg
  • my03lemonmy03lemon Posts: 3
    Yup, unfortunately not much of a do-it-yourselfer but this is definately useful information for me to move forward and start getting some of the 'crap' fixed on my 'lemon'. Thank you everybody for all of the helpful info=)
  • campermancamperman Posts: 53
    Sorry to hear about your troubles. I had a 2000 Passat which constantly gave me troubles; big expensive troubles. I got everything fixed and parked it to sell. Sold it a short time ago and had to visit my mechanic about 10 days later. the new owner had been in because of check light. there were 11 new codes showing on the diagnostic. Makes me shudder to think about it. If you know you have a lemon the best thing is to get rid of it. That beast can bleed you dry. I'll NEVER own another VW.
  • mzumzu Posts: 1
    Hans,

    I have the same problem - can you provide more information how did you conclude that it is ingnition switch and what did you do to fix it?

    Thanks
    MZU
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    You realize, I hope, that you are replying to a 5 year old post? List out your problems and let's see what we can do to help you.
  • I recently purchased a 2000 Passat with 106k miles from a private party. I recently had a minor repair done at the dealer. Their service people said they had no record of the vehicle's TIMING BELT ever having been replaced and they repeatedly stressed the need to do so, painting all sorts of horrendous scenarios if I don't and it busts for some reason.

    The price -- depending on who I was talking to -- ranged from $1300-$2000.

    How can I tell if it actually does need replacing? Concerned I'm being snookered into something that doesn't have to be done.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,781
    That's a pricey quote--you might inquire what all this includes--some quotes just do the belt, others include idler pulleys, and others include water pump.

    If you can't verify that the belt wasn't changed, you pretty much are up against the wall here---if it breaks, and you bent the valves or worse, this car is pretty much totaled. :cry:

    MODERATOR

  • bronsonbbronsonb Posts: 170
    Shiftright is right on the money. If you can't verify it's been done, then you need to get it done. You could go back to the private party and ask them if they did it or had it done at an independent repair shop. If they say yes, see if they have a receipt. If it's not been done, you're driving on borrowed time.

    I agree with Shiftright that the price seems a bit high. I had mine done in my 1999 Passat V6 at the dealer and paid only $900, but that was about 4 years ago. I think an independent shop that specializes in Euro cars might be worth a look-see as well.

    And definitely make sure you get the water pump done too. A good mechanic should include it in his or her estimate, but just verify that it is being done as well.

    Happy Driving!
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    confused2010: The replies from Shiftright and bronsonb that follow are both right on the money. YES, the quoted price sounds very high...$900-1,000 is more realistic. There are good VW dealers and bad ones...I prefer a good indie shop that knows V-dubs, so shop around. YES, you had better have it done if you can't verify past work. My understanding is that removing the TB cover and inspecting the belt may show its condition, but that might be a bit iffy. Another tidbit: If you do have the belt done, BE SURE to have the water pump, BELT TENSIONER and THERMOSTAT done at the same time. Changing the thermo later as a separate job runs around $300! All of this normally included with a TB change. vwdawg
  • I had the timiing belt, water pump and tensioner replaced on my 2005 Passat TDI at 90,000 miles. The total cost was $900 at the VW dealership in Germantown, TN.

    Like everyone else has said, if you don't know and you have 90,000 miles on the car, change it. It is unlikely that the last person did not have it done.
  • Thanks all, I appreciate your advice.
  • nycrknycrk Posts: 2
    Can someone help with some advice? I have a 2008 VW Passat 2.0T that I've gotten brand new and now I only have a total of about 8700 miles after about 2.5 yrs. I have already gotten the oil changed about 4 times, can someone provide some insight on driving less than 5k miles per year and how often should I change the oil and do other maintenance?">
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