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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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  • I bought a 2003 Passat GLS Wagon used recently(2 days ago)
    a woke up this morning to go outside and detail it and vaccum it and noticed a significant amount of water in the floorboard passenger side back seat --- not sure where it came from
    there is some sort of ac/heat vent on floor under passenger front seat could this be the cause???? any help would be greatly appreciated :)
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Notorious issue. The usual suspects are:

    1) Most likely - Clogged drains in the plenum area under the hood (where the battery and brake booster are) allows water to enter through the fresh air system.

    2) Possible - Clogged sunroof drain.

    3) Door seal is leaking or possibly a leak around the windshield.

    Check this website for help: http://www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/leak/
    Bear in mind that is a UK website, so the steering wheel is on the right side.
  • mkl001mkl001 Posts: 4
    my 07 passat wagon 2.0T, the fan sometimes need to drive 10-20 minutes to kick in and then the AC begins to work. The car has been to the dealers for repair 2 times to change the relay about 2 month ago, and today, the problem occurs.

    Does anyone have the same problem, and how to fix it?
  • greatcarsgreatcars Posts: 66
    I believe the Passat 2.0T (mine is 08) has problem on its AC or at least that's a weak park of the vehicle. Mine was hot and I had it checked by the dealer. They found the O ring was pinched and refrigerants was leaking. They replaced O ring and refilled the refrigerant. It's better now but still not as cool as my other 3 year old car and the Beatle they loaned to me on the service. I will get a thermometer and take exact temprature number to the dealer on the next service.
  • ok the heat wave is on and my ac in the 1999 passat doesn't run. The cooler is running but the blower isn't blowing hot or cold. The blower fan blows when the switch is on 4 but not 1-3. And when it's on 4 the cooler doesn't make the air cold. Does this sound like the blower resistor to anyone? or is it something else?
  • kilaueokilaueo Posts: 1
    I bought my 99 1.8t at a non-VW dealer and had him change the timing belt (70k miles) on it. After reading alot about the tensioners and water pumps giving out I am wondering whether the dealer exchanged these as well or cut corners :confuse: How can I tell whether they are the upgraded or still the old parts?
  • I own a 95 Passat Wolfsburg GLS with a 2.0.

    I am having problems with my windows, warning lamps, a speaker and the cruise control.

    The previous owner hurriedly installed a new head unit(SupertunerIIID) and speakers but I have a bad feeling they piggie backed power or used power they weren't supposed to.

    I can open 3 out of the 4 windows(can't open LR passenger window)with my key but not with any of the switches while only being able to open the drivers side with the switch.

    I can occasionally open the passenger side with the switch but it's moody as well as the cruise control. I checked for vacuum leaks but could not find any.

    I also do not have power to the master window switch in the center dash, I even replaced the switch to no avail.

    I took it to my mechanic and found a high/low voltage error/spike so I assumed that was the problem; but that is not the case unless there is a short somewhere

    When the car was bought I noticed the warning lamp for the ABS/EBRAKE/AIRBAG was defective and when I opened it up(I work with electronics for a living) the circuit board had blown traces and blown LED'S. I repaired it but still no power.

    If anyone could help me I would greatly appreciate it!

    THANKS!!!!
  • kotalkotal Posts: 2
    We are considering buying a 1999 Passat for my teenage son...would you all reccommend one? I'm worried that upkeep may be too expensive on this car. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • kotalkotal Posts: 2
    PLEASE SOMEBODY RESPOND..........Would you reccommend a 99 Passat for my teenage son? I have been reading the forum and am afraid that repairs would be way too much for him to handle. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Do keep in mind that you are in a Maintenance and Repair discussion, so naturally the focus is on that subject. There are other discussions in the Passat group you can check out as well.

    Good luck.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Depends on what you consider "expensive" and what your own mechanical abilities are, but frankly, no, I wouldn't recommend it.
  • linznblinznb Posts: 3
    I recently posted about the air conditioning and heating system not working. Couldn't wait any longer... It was a switch in the control panel. The funny thing is that the lights had gone out on the panel months ago and now that the switch has been replaced they work too. Oh well... Thank GOD for AC!
  • ekg426ekg426 Posts: 3
    Go for a.) something more reliable and b.) less costly to repair. Passats are fun, but they are neither inexpensive nor easy to fix. Any 9 year old car is a gamble, but the records of repair issues you see here - on newer models - gives you a good read on the road ahead.
  • timdemiotimdemio Posts: 8
    I have been researching the net about changing antifreeze in my 2000 Passat. Informations are somewhat conflicting, some say that one must use G12 from dealers, others say one can use Dex-Cool (no silicate) by either Prestone, Valvoline or Zerex. I have been topping up with Valvoline Dex-Cool and am about to flush and replace the antifreeze. What is the concensus? Gel issue was caused by incompatibility between different kinds of antifreeze, so one should never mix green/yellow with red/orange/purple. Besides that, is there any reason why one cannot use Dex-Cool for VW cars? Any chemist out there, would you mind render your opinion? Thanks.
  • cragg3rcragg3r Posts: 16
    get dealer stuff, why take the risk or go to the hassle of finding another kind of antifreeze?
  • cragg3rcragg3r Posts: 16
    Just like I told my friend... don't buy a passat for anybody who doesn't know how to work with cars... especially an old one! They are high upkeep and very expensive to fix. I would go with a smaller car. If you buy that 99 passat, you will start with the front suspension and struts - $1500, timing belt, water pump change - $1200, then finally the transmission - + $2000 ^ infinity
  • urbannomadurbannomad Posts: 14
    on saturday I got the oil indicator up and stop the car message. I went to the dealer and have the oil changed. Right after that 10 miles later, malfunction light came on(check engine) and car started shaking, (also when a/c was one it was shaking more) The dealer suggests me to tow the car. I checked out the internet and people talk about an oilslug problem. I almost paid close to 3k for extended warranty for this car. I really had it with this car as I spent so much time at the dealership service. I am paying a loan for this car to VW credit. Can I also just give the car back to VW credit and get rid of it ?
    I knew this would happen but my wife would like to keep it, she did not settle for a nice Camry.
    VW should be penalized for producing crappy cars.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I'm having a difficult time conjuring up a whole lot of sympathy for you based upon your post. Why?

    1) While you took the time to research engine problems with 2003 Passats, you didn't apparently read what it was you looked up. If you had you would have learned that the sludge problems were limited to the 1.8T four-cylinder turbocharged engine and not the Audi V6 that's in your car.

    2) As a general rule, cars that were maintained with the proper oil services (i.e. every 5,000 miles WITH a synthetic oil that was certified to meet the VW 502.00 oil spec or better) had no sludging problems (especially so the V6 cars; in those you really needed to try to get them to create sludge).

    3) You don't even know what's wrong with your car yet.

    4) If anything, Toyota had even more sludge related engine failures than VW did, so your comment that said, "I knew this would happen but my wife would like to keep it, she did not settle for a nice Camry", makes me wonder if you deliberately didn't maintain your car properly just to show her you were right.

    So, assuming that your engine is sludged, the questions you are now going to be faced with are as follows:

    - Can you prove that you had your oil changed every 5,000 miles?
    - Can you prove that only VW 502.00 (or better) oil was used every time the oil was changed (i.e. 502.00 oil from the dealership, Castrol Syntec 5W-40, Castrol Syntec 0W-30, or Mobil 1 0W-40)?

    If you can prove those things, then all you need to do is to show your dealership the receipts and they'll happily put a new engine in for you (assuming that its still under warranty of course).

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • urbannomadurbannomad Posts: 14
    Shipo,
    I had so many problems with this car that I needed to spend countless hours at the service for the last 4 years. Instead of the weekend quality family time, I wasted those hours at the VW service. I am also very careful w/ the maintenance.
    I think I really had it this time. To prevent further financial pain, I got the extended warranty early this year. Oil changes are done usually at the dealership but 5K mile before was done at the car wash facility next to our house.
    From what I read the symptoms look like slug problem to me.
    Unfortunately VW as a company very hostile to its customers and their overall attitude towards customers really annoys me.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I guess I need to say it differently; there is no "sludge" problem with the V6 engines. That problem is isolated to the 1.8T four cylinder engine, an engine that is not in your car.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
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