Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

13435373940108

Comments

  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    It sounds like you are referring to the belly pan. Actually, it has about 14 connectors, including a 10 mm nut at the front, under the bumper. The rest are mostly "quarter-turn" connectors.

    Be careful with your search for the oil drain! More than one person has accidentally drained their transmission fluid by mistake. IIRC, the oil drain plug drains towards the right side of the car. Others may be able to shed some light on this.

    To remove the oil filter on the 1.8T, it's usually easier to reach it from the top. You can either loosen the clamp on the large air hose that runs from the intercooler to the intake manifold and then push that hose out of the way (I've seen several VW techs do this). Or you can remove the three screws that hold the coolant reservoir, unplug the electrical connector and gently move the reservoir aside (you don't have to disconnect the hose). To me, moving the air hose seems easier, but whatever floats your boat...

    Good luck!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    ... also make sure you use a VW 502.00 specification motor oil (read: synthetic), and use the bigger VW filter for the Passat that brings the total oil capacity to 4.2 quarts (as opposed to the 3.9 quart capacity the car came out of the factory with). I would buy the filter at the dealer, and get the list of 502.00 spec oils (which you can buy at an auto parts store such as Auto Zone, etc.).
  • passatonerpassatoner Posts: 14
    How important is it to use the bigger VW filter (4.2 quarts)? I just had oil change done for my Passat 2002 at Jiffy Lube - I did show them the VW 502.00 spec and have them use the penzzoil synthetic oil but they only put 3.9 quarts, so I guess they didn't use the bigger filter.
    Would they be having the bigger filter - if so, i could go in and have them replace the filter with the bigger one?

    Thanks.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Well, not to be rude, but thats why you shouldn't get your oil changed at a Jiffy Lube. Especially on a Passat which has special requirements for oil and oil filter. Just curious: How much did you spend for the oil change?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Chances are, Jiffy Lube won't have the correct oil filter. Your best bet is to purchase the filter at the dealer. The VW OEM filters are better constructed, and designed to work with your engine's operating requirements (such as regulating the engine oil pressure, etc.), areas in which most aftermarket oil filters are deficient in.

    Is your engine still under warranty?

    What grade of Pennzoil synthetic was used? And is it on the VW 502.00 spec approved list of oils? And did you have the oil changed at 5000 mile intervals? Most importantly, do you keep the receipts from your oil change? These are questions that VWoA or your dealer will ask you in the event you need to submit a warranty claim. Answering no to one or all of the above questions will give them justification to void the warranty and deny your claim.
  • jbookoutjbookout Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Passat TDI which had the "TV12" recall done some 2 years ago. I believe this recall replaces the ECM and intake manifold and possibly other things. My problem is that since the recall was done, the car shows a marked decrease in power after 30 - 40 miles of highway driving. Shutting the car off and immediately restarting it solves the problem (Microsoft made the ECM?). The dealer just keeps throwing parts at it (mass airflow, vacuum hoses, etc..) while I keep asking the same stupid question: replace the ECM and see if that fixes it since this seems like an computer issue such as boost management or something like that. Thanks for the help.

    Jimmy
  • arshad1arshad1 Posts: 1
    Hi I am considering buying a 97 Volks. Passat GLX automatic.

    1)The problem with the transmission is that there is a slight delay when shifting from 1st to second.

    2)Does that mean the transmission is going to give me trouble or will I be able to live with it.

    3)Also will i be able to side step the problem by simply shifting gears manually from first to second and then to drive. The car only has 110K miles on it.

    4)Does anyone know the cost of rebuilding the transmission

    Hope someone can help me out.
    Thanx.
    Arshad.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,908
    I hope you did a thorough pricing on this car. In the condition you describe it would not be worth more than $3500 retail. I would figure at least $1500 for a transmission rebuild. If the rest is straight with the body and all it may be worth the chance. Who knows the transmission may last another 50k miles..

    Good luck and welcome to the forum.
  • jaw1jaw1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Passat GLX V6 and about a month ago, I started getting warning signals from my dash saying ABS, Brake, Stop, Brake Fauld, Service Manual. I took it to a Brake Shop and they said the problem was due to my master cylinder was low on fluid because the rear brakes needed to be replaced. They replaced my rear brakes, but all those anoying lights on my dash are still flashing.Evidently replacing the rear brakes didn't have anything to do with my problem. Any suggestions?
  • Same fault - 2000 Passat 1.8T - 81000

    No help from VW
    Fault is in computer board attached to the ABS pump.
    Found re-built ( board replaced) part on-line $450
    Had difficulty finding service tech who would both 1) work on VW and 2) use replacement part which I purchased rather than purchased through the tech.

    Eventually was able to get work performed for $250.
  • Anyone have any luck getting VW to own up to the window regulator problem? It is not my only problem with my Passat just the most recent of a long expensive list.

    I experienced the same problem. 2000 Passat 1.8T 82000miles - Front Right window dropped into door.

    Repair tech found the plastic guide/bracket that holds the window and rides in the track broken. He also found that the window was likely installed incorrectly by the OEM as the rubber isolator where the window should sit was squished down into the support bracket. Although he did not think that contributed to the failed plastic part.

    I spoke to local VW service found that VW carried an extended warranty covering this issue on multiple other vehicles but not the Passat. I have also found multiple instances reporting this same issue on the WEB after only looking for 1/2 hour.

    The Jetta was the one I found most often all the way back to late 1990's. From what I could find the fix for future models on the Jetta was to replace the plastic with a metal part. I cannot help but wonder why a 2000 Passat ( and later models) has a plastic part for the same device.

    I have filed a complaint with NHTSA. I would recommend that anyone else with the same issue file a complaint as well.
  • catecate Posts: 8
    I changed the air intake tube one month ago since the old one was broken. Since then I find when I start the car in the morning, the idle speed would fucturate for 1 or 2 second before it becomes stable. This only happens once everyday, and always in the morning, so I guess it happens on completely cold engine only. I also notice I get a little shaking when I accelerate on highway, and the MPG decreases.
    Somebody suggested I may get leaking in the air intake system. Should I bring it back to the garage? Is it a serious problem?
    Thank you guys.
  • vdubbledvdubbled Posts: 1
    If the idle is hunting it is probably a dirty throttle body. Where the rubber air hose comes up from the driver side front. If you disconnect the hose at the metal part and spray some carb/injector cleaner up on the inside it should take care of it. It is usually where the fuel gets gummed up. The dealer took mine off and cleaned it for a reasonable cost. Gosset VW in Atlanta. Some folks may recommend gas with more detergents or using additives like techron. Lots of cars have this problem. I do hear a lot of the 1.8t's VW's and Audi's doing this. If you look inside you will see where the valve makes contact with the inside of the throttle body. Do this yourself for 5 bucks and if it remains, go to another vw dealer or a better mechanic. I believe that this would be your problem if you can hold your foot on the gas and hold 1200 rpm. You may see it more pronounced when you turn on the AC.
  • chloe7chloe7 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Passat (1.8T) with 45,000. Recently the "check engine light" came on, along with the message "emission workshop." I had Autozone do the OBD; fault code for this problem is P0701, system too lean, bank 1. Car is actually running fine, but I know I need to figure out why I've got the check engine light on, with a 'system too lean' fault code. It's my first time to the forum -- am a woman trying to learn more about diagnosing and maintaining my Passat, as I plan to keep it a long time. Any ideas or recommendations on figuring out the cause of this fault code problem are greatly appreciated.
  • passatonerpassatoner Posts: 14
    Paid about $55..and realized the dealer would charge in about the same range..
  • passatonerpassatoner Posts: 14
    I guess I will go to the dealer from next time onwards..
    Any other oil change place that may work better, given the dealer's wait-time and price..

    Also, My car is coming close to 40K..I realized 40K is a big service and the dealer seems to charge about $650 or so..Is it worth going to the dealer given the price? or any alternatives? Also, my 4-year standard warranty is close to expiring (in November) as well..I'm inclined to go to the dealer for peace of mind..but given the price factor I'm wondering if I should find an alternative? Any advice??
    Thanks.
  • eman2eman2 Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 :lemon: passat and the window dropped down into the door. I have no idea how to get the door panel off so if you find out how to do so could you relay the information to me? thanks a million. :)
  • unfortunately, i am stuck with a 2001 passat GLX 4 motion with 80K on the ticker. I have owned the car for two years and 40K on the engine. where do I start? Cracked gear shift knob (despite garage), rear window armature disabled three times, and broken antenna (dealer wants $700 to R/R). Yesterday, the, tiptronic failed to engage and I have dealt with constant oil leaks despite changing the timing belt and the "pillow" gasket between the oil cooler and the engine. the door window switch is erratic and every morning there is a pool of oil on the garage floor.
    the car has a high pitch squeel every morning and the car eats headlight bulbs like nothing. i thought it was my imagination but too much is too much. am i alone in this boat or do i have some buddies out there?
    miserable in sf, ca :( :( :cry: :sick:
  • rob_passatrob_passat Posts: 13
    Eating headlights might be due to an alternator that is putting out too much voltage. Oil leaks happen - I spent $1500 on my Altima trying to fix an oil leak. It seemed unsuccessful at first but it turned out they did fix it. A high pitched squeal sounds like a belt or a bearing. Hopefully you check the oil often enough with the leak. It would be a shame to end up with a bad engine bearing due to low oil pressure.

    You seem to have quite a few annoying defects. That is bad luck but statistically not out of line for any model car that I have owned over the years.
  • vw2001vw2001 Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 2001 passat.
    It was caused by ABS unit gone bad. They fixed it for ~$1500 and was covered by extended warranty.
  • djcdjc Posts: 10
    I finally had mine fixed after a year at my expense. VW finally authorized customers being able to buy the electronic module only instead of the whole ABS package. Still cost $850, but I was tired of all the flashing lights.

    Of course, the trunk latch broke internally just before I took it in. Never seen so many problems on a five year old car.
  • roger11roger11 Posts: 2
    chloe, a "lean"condition means that there isn't enough fuel being put into the combustion chamber. this is a really bad situation especially at higher rpm ranges because it creates more heat with in the chamber. that heat negatively affects everything in the engine compartment. worst case it's possible to burn holes in your pistons or burn the valves. obviously that's a bad situation. fixing it could be as easy as a new O2 sensor which the computer uses to snif the exhaust gases. the computer will put in more fuel or reduce fuel depending on the readings it gets from the sensor. there are other potential causes of course but that will require diagnostics be done ie retrieve the codes and translate them. most likely done by a dealer because of the tendency to horde the information and make money on the servicing of vehicles. if you haven't done reasearch on the problems passat owners have with these cars and VWofA you would be well advised to do so.
  • roger11roger11 Posts: 2
    there's a good possibility that the drain tube is plugged up. check to see if you get a puddle of water *under* the car after running the AC for a while. if no puddle appears that means it's draining into the car. try finding the drain hose exiting the passenger compartment and try to clear it.
  • lyonseelyonsee Posts: 11
    I filled twice and averaged only around 20 mpg. 2005 New GLS Wagon, auto.

    About 30 % in highway with AC most of time, mpg is lower than I expected, ~25mpg.
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    Just got a flat tire (screw piereced the sidewall) and need to replace the spare tire on my 03 Passat 1.8GL. . I have been very happy with the OEM Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus- the car handles fantastically in all seasons - but they are costly at about $130 including mounting on the wheel. For about half the price I can get the Falken Ziex Z-512 - $65 - the one Consumer Reports liked so much. And then there are all those other tires out there - Bridgestone potenza, etc etc.

    Anybody have any suggestions? One reason for staying with Michelin is so I have the same tires on all four wheels (after the next one blows, or if I have to replace just three of them). But ... anyone have any suggestions?

    Thanks!
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    I just talked to the guy at a local store - he likes the Michelin Energy, but says on his Jetta he switched to the Michelin Pilot (not sure if "Exalto" or XGT h4) and said he didn't really notice much difference - but it's a lot cheaper. He said the Falken isn't as good a tire.

    Any comments? Sounds to me like I should go with the "Pilot"
  • jc9799jc9799 Posts: 70
    Premium vs regular fuel.

    Sorry, I'm sure this has already been debated many times. I know back in 02 there was a topic regarding this question.

    With the price of gas as it is, I was wondering about using regular instead of premium. I know the manual recommends premium, although I've read many opinions whether that means you have to use it.

    I know VW, in the past couple of years, has gotten very specific about what kind of oil we must use. Does anyone know if there is anything about what octane level we must use for our fuel? Does VW consider using a lower octane fuel a contributor to the sludge issue?

    For the record, I'm leaning toward using regular, but am a little worried about running into any warranty issues.
  • bjbird2bjbird2 Posts: 647
    I've heard good things about the Falken tires, not only from CR, but from actual owners.

    I was planning on replacing the OEM Continentals on my 02' 1.8T Passat with Falkens, if I decide to keep the car (another story). The price for the Falkens is good, and I have not heard a negative comment about them, except from one dealer, who did not carry Falkens and obviously wanted to sell me a tire he carried.

    My second choice was Michelin, but I was upset with them after the fiasco with the Indy Grand Prix. :P
  • c141c141 Posts: 2
    The 1999 Passat GLS V6. Bought it brand new with the 6 cd changer.
    Used to live in the city so didn't get it to drive it except on the weekends, so I have only 46000 miles on it.

    In that time:
    Broken Power Steering pump
    Needed new brakes (all four)
    Driver side tire rods replaced
    Rear speakers stopped working
    The ABS system has failed on me.

    Mechanic says he sees the VW Passat / Jetta more often than any other car.
    He said he's made enough money on me and I should trade the car in.

    I also know quite a few people who have Passats with similar experiences.

    What a :lemon:

    I'll never buy another VW again. I also work hard to disspell the notion that VW makes good cars.

    Please everyone get rid of your VW's and get something reliable like a matchbox car.
  • jalatorrejalatorre Posts: 1
    Was what your original problem and how did you solve it ?
    My daughter's Passat (94) with 115K miles just started having ignition problems, you turn the key and it will not start, sometimes after several attempts it finally starts. Not sure if it's the starter or ignition switch.
Sign In or Register to comment.