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Pontiac Grand Prix: Problems & Solutions

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  • I had the same problem on my 2000 Grand Prix. There is a wiring harness that runs by a cannister in the far left front under the hood. On mine the harness had rubbed against the cannister and wore through the insulation, shorting out the sensor. A mechanic freind of mine told me this was a common problem. He put a piece of thick hose around the harness so it wouldn't wear through again and problem gone.
  • One noise on the right front can be caused by the formed rubber flap that is behind the wheel getting out of position. The lube shop I use is bad about pulling it out to get to the oiul filter and then when I leave after that the right tire will rub against it with sharp turns.
  • I was wondering if you could tell me a little more about your vibration. I also have a 05 Grand Prix GXP and I'm having some vibration in the front end. Mine only seems to pop up when I'm moving at a constant 25mph. Sometimes it's hard to reproduce but it always seems to be around when I'm not trying to show the mechanics at the dealership.
    As far as the vibration as I said it's intermittent and it’s a buzz that can be felt in the steering. It's getting really annoying and I would love to be able to tell someone where to look for a problem. Thanks for the help.
  • Hi, I own a 97 GP GT. It seems to have a phantom electrical problem. My digital information center will start flickering and then my SRS will flicker and my ABS light will come on. When this happens my transmission will not shift right. If my automatic headlights are on they will flicker too, but with the headlight turned on with the switch they're fine. I hear relays or something clicking when this happens. I've shaken down just about every wire I could find with no success of duplicating the problem. This only happens once in awhile. I just changed the alternator due to it being corroded and thought it might be doing it due to it being monitored by the PCM, but no cigar. Has anybody ran into this before or have any ideas of where to go to next with this problem? I'm fresh out of ideas and would appreciate any help. Thanks!
  • Basically it literally vibrates so bad it makes your teeth chatter. Check the previous posts #550, 552, 553, 554, 561, 562, and 563. I think it will answer your question. Good luck.
  • Well, I just returned from my 3rd visit to the Pontiac Dealer. Basically, they decided the motor mounts that we replaced were parhaps not sitting exact. Then determined that the motor had "dropped". You could visibly see that it tilted to the back and to the passenger side. So they loosened all motor mounts and torqued the engine, hoping the motor would sit up correctly. Didn't happen. Next they decided that the car must have bottomed out sometime and bent something in the frame or cradle. Had the frame guys look and hook it to the gauges. Yep, the cradle was bent. They adjusted it. The motor is now in its correct position. However, it did not solve the problem even the slightest bit. So, they say the right axel assembly is bad. They recommend that I replace that and then they "think I should be ok". I mean what else is there at this point????? I paid them $200 for adjusting the cradle and left. I notice, and have all along, that sitting in park, and reving to 3-4000 rpm that the back of the motor jumps like a jack hammer. I asked about that, and was told it was the 'rev-limiter' or whatever keeps the revs down. Does anyone know anything about that? Is it normal for a car engine to jump like that? Sitting in park, reving the engine.. you feel the exact same vibration as when driving down the road. The vibrations are always around the 3 - 4000 rpm while driving. Otherwise the car runs and sounds like a new one. Anyway, at this point I give up and plan to drive the worthless scrap until it finally falls apart. I owe more than it's worth in such condition and high mileage. Might as well enjoy the ride unless I can manage to market milk-shakes or frozen yogurt...just got to install the ol'fridge. My advice to anyone with these cars..... is to Sell..Trade.. push it off a cliff before 100,000 miles. Too many things just start quitting at that point. Good luck, and this is my LAST Pontiac.
  • Hey Scapagliata, I'm with you on that LAST Pontiac deal. I just stumbled across your posts while trying to find an answer to why my 2000 Grand Prix developed a bad vibration. The vibration on my vehicle is only when turning right and accelerating and I was wondering if anyone figured out what your problem was??? I have been to several different mechanics, the last one is one i trust but is several hours away. He told me that he checked everything on this car and can find nothing wrong with the vehicle. He told me that the only thing that it could be was the transmission, what do you think??? This has been going on for months and has cost me alot of money and has fixed nothing. Luckily, he is going to put on a used transmission to see if this fixes the problem. Ill let you know how it turns out.
    If anyone can answer these questions let me know, Im beyond frustrated.
  • Hey Scottmo (are you in Missouri?)....sorry you too are having trouble. I've replaced nearly everything but the motor and transmission in the front end. The "certified GM Pontiac Dealer" believes my problems have nothing to do with the engine nor the transmission. I took it to the tire place first. Started there getting new tires. This didn't resolve the issue. So we replaced struts, then bearing/hub assemblies, lower tie rods, and had it aligned. We also had new plugs and wires installed by a trusted mechanic. He couldn't tell anything was wrong with the car. Nothing we did made even a hint of difference. So I took it to the Pontiac Dealer...FOUR times. First they said it was the lower motor mounts. Those were replaced and it made no difference. Then they said the motor looked like it had dropped. Visually you could see it was tilted back and toward the right. The altenator pulley was next to the resovoir tank on the passenger side. So, the frame guys hooked it to gauges to determine it's placement, and decided it was definately out of place. Something had to be bent. $200 later, they found the cradle was bent and they bent it back into position. The motor is sitting in the right spot, visually it does look better now. But....no change in the vibration. Now they say they are nearly convinced it has to be the right CV joint is bad or perhaps the axel is bent. They recommend replacing the entire axel assembly, have it realigned and I "SHOULD" be ok. I've spent over $1000 already doing things that "SHOULD" fix the original problem. What's another $200 right???? Anyway that is my next plan, can't stop now. Will try to get that done in the next week or so. If it doesn't fix it, then my plan is to just drive it till it falls apart. The car looks and sounds like a new one just sitting there. Starts good, runs great. One thing I've learned, is now a days unless there is some type of warning light, check engine light on, where they can hook the computer to it and make the accurate diagnosis..... you are just paying for educated guesses. And I do mean "PAYING". Good luck. Let me know what you do that fixes your problem.
  • whelanwhelan Posts: 1
    I have had this problem with my 98 grand prix as well. here is how you fix it without changing anything. first buy a can of brake cleaner (spray can) pull out the little rubber under the ignition. Spray up and over all the column inside, be very generous it cleans the gummy switch that causes the whole problem. If it doesn't work right away repeat the process. Spray alitte in the ignition as well if or when the key is out. Your friendly mechanic Curtis curtis_whelan@hotmail.com
  • I too had this problem with my 2000 grand prix gt... it started around 68,000 miles too. Finally it got where the key relased very easily. So easily, in fact, that you can remove the key while driving down the road. I was told they could replace the ignition/code/remotes/keys for $400 but I declined. Sometimes it's a pain, others it's a convenience. I can leave the car running, pull out the keys, lock the doors, and run inside to pay for gas and the heater keeps the car warm while Im inside. Gotta look for the bright side righ? I've learned to deal with alot of quirks with this car. I've driven a Pontiac for 15 years. Had a grand am first drove it for 230,000 miles and it was still going when I traded it. Had this one only 3.5 and have had constant frustrations with it since around 60,000 miles. This will be my last one. :mad:
  • OK THIS IS IT.... my last post I hope. FINALLY!!!!! IT'S FIXED!!!!! Thanks to my HUSBAND. Today we replaced the right and left axel assembies (cv joints too). It was a long tough job, but it was do-able and it's done. Drove the car, and outside of it needing a new alignment, it drives like a new one. Odd thing is that each time we asked a mechanic to diagnose it..even the pontiac dealers mechanics, we asked "could it be the cv joints?" and each time were directed to another cause. Should have listened to our own 'guess' and started there. Could have saved about $1000.00 in parts, tires, and a tune up. There was no visible sign the axel or cv's were bad. But it sure made a difference. I can't tell you how relieved I am. If you are having a shimmy or vibration in the front, and an alignment doesn't solve it. Try the cv joints FIRST...then work on the other things. Good luck. :)
  • I have a 2002 GTP w/ 62k on it. I replaced the battery this past fall as well as gave it a tune up. About a month a go I was going 70 down the highway, it started to hesitate and the RPMs dropped to 0 and stayed there and the TCS light came on and stayed on. I drove it home turned it off and it started back up again with good RPMs and no TCS light on. While sitting at a light last week it died. I put it in park tried to start it (it turns like it wants to start every time). It took about 4 times and finally started. Went to my parents house this weekend (1/-1/2 hours away). Drove fine the whole way. Let it sit about two hours. I went back out and it wouldn't start. Started right up the next day and has run fine since. Does anyone have any idea what's going on with my car?
  • I have a 1998 GTP with 210,000 miles. I have had no problems with the supercharger. The only thing I have had to do is replace the belt and tensioner due to normal maintenance.
  • dmrbtodmrbto Posts: 1
    Hi there -

    I know the code to unlock my stereo but I can't find my manual. Can anyone give me directions on how to unlock the stereo? Please Help!

    Thanks -

    Dina Marie
  • The Check Gas Cap Light/Chime in my car came on,as did my Engine Light. My boyfriend took it to Advanced Auto and they plugged a small computer to my car, which came up with code P0455 EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large). So he got a new gas cap and then they reset the code for my car and it was fine. I put gas in my car and later that day the Check Gas Cap Light/Chime came on again and has been on ever since,but the Engine Light has not come back on. The cap is on the right way, we checked to make sure. Does anyone have any clues as to what is wrong with it?
  • It seams I lost the use of my super charger. It happened about 2 weeks ago. The interior Boost does not register any more and I don’t have the acceleration I used to. There doesn’t seam to be any noise coming from it. Any, suggestions please.
  • My 2000 GTP did the same thing on Jan 13, 2006. I had got home from work and parked my car in it parking spot. When I came back outside 10 minutes later the car was on fire. I had never had any major problems with it. The only thing I've had to fix since I bought the car in July was the thermostat, which was only a $9 part. I thought it was the best car ever. Now I am very frustrated and disappointed, because I know that there has to be a manufacturer default that they know about but are not telling the consumer about!
  • I also just experienced my baby (2000 Grand Prix GTP) go up in flames. Wife went to get our daughter from daycare, parked the car and when she came back outside, there was smoke coming from the hood. The fire was put out by someone who grabbed a fire extinguisher, so all that was damaged was the supercharger cover and the top of the engine. I figured they would fix it but just found out they are writing it off. Had the car for over three years, no problems, so it was a shock. Pretty scary for my wife. The mechanics figure a fuel injector cracked and gas sprayed on the hot surface of supercharger causing it to ignite?? Sad to see it go, hopefully GM will quit ignoring this problem and get a recall...
  • My best friend just bought her daughter a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, which she loved. Three nights ago she parked in front of her house, went in, and immediately heard a loud noise-which was the sound of it burning-it was a total loss. There was no warning and the car had been fine. Just a miracle they weren't driving it at the time. Has this problem been going on since 1997-or before- and nothing has been done about it? I am sure my friend would like a chance to join any effort that may be underway to make the manufacturer responsible for this. I wonder if anyone has been seriously injured due to these fires?
  • I've got a 99 GTP that I bought about a month ago. It works great except for one thing; I've noticed the boost gauge getting "stuck" when I'm driving on the highway (getting up to speed or passing) or up large hills which causes the car to stall. I've had it into the dealership and they kept it for nearly a week and they didn't fix a thing. Has anyone had anything similar happen to them or is my car just weird? Anyways, does anyone have any advice?
  • devil2devil2 Posts: 1
    Hay lvg did you ever get a valid fix for this problem?? I have a 2002 GP Gt with same problem. Car has 71000+ miles.
    Runs great other than this. No problem above 60mph. Is irritating to say least.. Anybody get this fixed ?? Thanks a bunch.. devil2
  • I currently own a 2000 Pontiac GP GT, every winter for some unknown reason, the car will not shift out of park. The indicator arrow that shows whether you are in Park, Drive or Neutral will not show up, meaning that I cannot shift out of park without pressing down on the override button beside the shifter. Also for the last 6 months the car's RPM fluctuates between 2000 & 3000 RPMs as I'm speeding up. According to the dealership there's nothing wrong.... Any ideas or suggestions on how to fix??
  • Believe it or not the water is more than likely coming from the passenger window. There is a heavy gauge of plastic the covers the inside of the door before the door panel is put on. This is to prevent water and air leaks from protruding into the vehicle. Sometime when the window motor is repaired or replaced the tech or in most cases the "mechanic" does not properly reinstall it. Try running water around your front passenger window(if a four door otherwise your passenger window) at the door to window seal and see. The water will run down the inside of the door to the kick plate and from there to the floorboard. It might not be in your case but I have watch the professionals at Leak Pro a number of times find it there.
  • We had a Buick Lesabre in the shop at a dealership I worked at several years ago with the same problem of vibrating around 40-45mph. "A Buick LeSabre!?", you say, "what does that have to do with my Pontiac Grand Prix!?" Well, just follow me on this and you see the relevance! It was a 2000 model and had around 65k miles on it. The Buick lesabre has the same running gear as our grand prix.
    The guy had been to Wal-mart, of all places, and spent a butt load of money on tires, struts tie rod ends, alignments, and you name he bought it trying to fix the vibration. We actually had a tech that knew what he was doing. Found the driver side axle had started to go bad, replaced, and what do you know the gentleman had the best riding buick on the road. I am not saying this will fix yours but I am having the same problem on my 2000 grand prix and plan on replacing both axles. www.3800performance.com check it out! :)
  • Try getting a OEM Gas cap from GM and see what happens. If that does not help get a pressure check done to see if there are any other leaks in your fuel system. The EVAP code is to inform you if your system is leaking gas or fumes. Thanks to good old uncle sam, this had to be put on every make and model after a certain date for safety reason. Not just pontiac.
  • oh yeah.... this sounds familiar. My dad has a Buick LeSabre so I was with you on the similarities between the Buick and our Grand Prix. I took the car to the tire place (not wal-mart), a trusted mechanic, and to the Pontiac Dealer (Certified GM Mechanics), and all were scratching their heads. My first question was "Could it be the axels or CV joints". Noooooo Nooooo... it it were that you'd feel this, see this, blah blah blah, they'd all say. So, like your story, I too spent a butt load of money replacing this or that. Finally the axel/cv's were the only thing left. Replaced them, and YESSS... I too have the best driving vehichle on the road. What a way to learn a lesson huh. Next time I go with my own instinct. Heck if we're just playing the guessing game, which is what everyone was doing... I can do that and save a ton of money. ;)
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The date was 1996. The system is OBD II. The reason is to reduce hydrocarbon emissions to the atmosphere. Has nothing to do with safety concerns.
  • lallulallu Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I'm new here. I've a '98 Grand Prix SE. A little while ago, two things happened simultaneously. The key got stuck in the ignition and the car won't come out of the Park gear. I regularly use the manual shift override switch (on the right side of the shifter) to get it out of the Park. I've read quite a few posts here on this issue. I'll try pressing the pin/switch under the steering column for getting the key out when I go home today. Can somebody please tell me for sure which of the following switches is bad.

    1. Ignition switch (Price??)
    2. Neutral Safety Switch (I guess, aka Shift Interrupt Switch. Am I right? My mechanic calls it PRNDL switch and he said this was the culprit.) The auto parts guy called GM who said Neutral Safety Switch need to be replaced (part price $40-$50).
    3. both 1 & 2

    How do I test which one is bad and does anybody has any info on how easy/difficult/costly it is to replace either of these switches.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    PS: On a sidenote, is the Driver Window Regulator the circuit board beneath those buttons on the driver window?

    Thanks in advance
  • I had the same problem with my 2000 GPGT and was told it was the ignition switch. I didn't fix it..then the key just started coming out... didn't go back to the "off" position, but it would let me have the key. I could even leave the car running, take the key with me and lock the door. Which by the way is handy in cold weather when you just need to run in somewhere for a moment. ;) Anyway, oddly enough, I've had a load of trouble with the front end vibrating, which required alot of work (see numerous previous posts by me). Bottom line, I've said some bad things to the car, about the car, even kicked the thing once. Now that all the work has been done...nothing to the ignition system....the #@%$@#@ thing works. Every time (so far), I've turned the key .. it goes to the full off position. No reason why it started, no reason why it's stopped (even if temporarily). These cars, it seems are somewhat possessed with little quirks. Mine has other quirks that I've worked around so much I don't even realize them as quirks now. About your window question. I'm not sure what your problem is, but my drivers window quit working. Took it to the dealer they said it was the motor. I replaced it myself and it didn't work. Decided to contact a junk yard and buy a new switch assembly...was less than $30 and took 5 minutes and worked like new. Needless to say I don't think it was the motor. Good luck.
  • Hello, and thanks, this site has helped me a lot.
    As I had not have had the worst of problems,
    I have had the many, to name a few:
    Rear hub had humming noise.
    Key stuck in the ignition.
    Wiper blades parked vertigle.
    Headlight lense cover fell off.
    Power windows working when they want.
    Crappy cheap interior door covers detaching.
    Automatic lights coming on during daylight.

    And at present I cannot get my car out of park, (I use overide every day)Cuz mechanics claim it to be the shifter and the part is around $400.-Ish, plus labor
    also, ABS, CHECK TIRE & LOW TRAC lights are on and its ONLY $100. for them to scan it and tell what is wrong with the car. Nice,

    This site has givin me some insight to some of these problems and what to watch for.. So thanks..
    Oh and is it just me, My car has and does or well did everything you can posibbly imagine, short of sewing a sweater.
    But No light in the trunk??
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