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Pontiac Grand Prix: Problems & Solutions



  • tracybtracyb Posts: 1
    Hi all. When I press accelarator to pick up speed (between 30 miles and 50 miles), the car kicks or knocks. It is very obnoxious and uncomfortable at the same time. Tranny bad? Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance. Sincerely, TracyB
  • ndclarkndclark Posts: 3
    I have a 98 Grand Prix GT(3800) and experienced a squealing noice at about 79,000 which led to the serpantine belt coming off. Since all the accessories(power steering,alternator,water pump) stopped working and knowing that newer engines cant handle high temps(overheat) I shut the car right off. Just wanted to point out the problem was as deep as a cheap plastic accessory drive/tensioner with a metal bearing which allows the water pump to operate. The plastic was warped(from heat after driving from AZ to MI) causing it not to spin and the belt fell off. I dont know all about cars but I didn't know they used such cheap parts(which I replaced for $15 at a local hardware store). This could have caused a much bigger problem and thank God I didn't take it to a dealer to be charged hundreds of dollars.
  • I have a 1992 Pontiac Grand Prix SE. It is a two door model and has a 3.1 engine. The front bumper area was damaged in a accident. The rubber piece above the bumper is out of shape. It has the openings for the headlights and the headlights don't shine thru the openings because the rubber piece gets in the way.
    The rubber piece below the bumper where the two black grills are has a tear in it.

    I assume the upper and lower piece come as one assembly. What I need to know is how to remove this front assembly and how to put on the new one. It would be helpful to have some pictures to refer to. I think I can do the job just knowing the process to removing this front assembly. Thanks for your help
  • tottot Posts: 3
    How about exploding battery at 40K - $250 to fix
    A/C wiring harness at 45K - $450 to fix
    Radaitor leak at 50K $100 to fix
    a/c compressor at 60K $1000 to fix
    passenger power window broken 3 times - once under warranty $400 to fix each time
    a/c thermostate conrol $150 to fix
    Tie rods need to be replaced at 63K - dealer refused to relace - $250 to fix

    I am glad my next car will be a honda
  • I Have a 99 Gran Prix GT. It recently had an episode of very HARD shifts. It cleared itself after a stop and restart. The temperature gauge was reading higher than normal, not in the overheat range but higher. Checked for error code and had a 1811 code set. Required replacing the pressure solenoid. Have not had any more hard shifts but temp is still running higher than ever did in the previous 5 years. Seems to be after driving on the road, around town or idling stays normal. Dealer does not think the two problems are related but seems quite a coincidence. Any one with similar problems or ideas would be appreciated.

  • Hmmm...since I believe the trans is cooled by your radiator, one has to wonder if there isn't a relationship, such as a malfunctioning thermostat (which also would show up worse at highway speeds than idling).

    Of course, it's always a good idea to check and see if your heat gauge is actually accurate.
  • miked2miked2 Posts: 5
    Hi, I'm new at so so please bear with me.
    My daughter has a 94 Grand Prix GT 3.1 with 84,000 miles on it. Mechanically it runs great. The problem is getting it started. When turning the ignition key most of the time it starts right up, but sometimes you get nothing, no clicking, nothing. If you keep trying to start it, it will eventually start. Sometimes 2,3 or 5 attempts to get it to start. The battery is good, the terminals have been cleaned. This problem was originally noticeable about 2 years ago, I replaced the starter and cleaned the ground connection.
    The same problem occurred, I then put the original starter back. The problem is getting more frequent now and I would like to get it repaired. Any suggestions would be greatly appricated. Thank you.
  • Filled up with gas, drove 2 blocks, shut off the engine. Went back in a 1/2 hr. to start it, car wouldn't fire. Acted as though it was flooded. After another hour, it started drove it 4 blocks, ran fine until it cut off in traffic. Had to have it towed. No previous problems, (only owned it for 5 months!)97,500 miles. No lights or any indication of a problem. My dad has checked the MAF sensor-it's fine,EGR valve-fine, the fuel pressure is good, no diagnostic codes indicated, changed the gas I just put in, still nothing works. If it does start it idles very rough for about 30 seconds and quits. My dad is a mechanic and very confused over this car! Help!!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Crankshaft position sensor.
  • Sounds like the wheel bearings.
  • Thanks to all who tried to help with advice. Turns out the MAF sensor was the problem after all. Seems Dad didn't check it as well as he had thought. Special Note: If you take off the MAF sensor and it runs good enough to drive a few blocks that's your problem! Expensive part, thank goodness for Dad's!
  • I have recently had a problem with my '01 grand prix SE 3100....there has been a squealing noise that i believe is coming from the left front of the vehicle near the axle. I has now progressed into a thumping noise that gets louder as i get faster. The noise isn't really thumping but it sounds like your in a supertuner with a exhaust that never shifts out of first. I believe it may have something to do with the axle bearing or the cv joint but can't pin-point the problem. My friends 2000 grand prix gt has recently started the squealing noise so i was hoping a fellow pontiac driver might know the problem.
    BTW-the sound goes away when i take curves to the left.
  • Yeah, CV joint or bad wheel bearing. If it goes away to the left, you are loading right and easing off left, so look on the left side for the problem.
  • mb-s65mb-s65 Posts: 29
    99 GTP with almost 60 k miles
    When accelerating b/t 2500 - 3000 rpm
    I hear a ticking / rattling noise coming from the engine. It is most prominent after cold starts, but sometimes lasts for over an hour.

    Of course when I brought to the dealer, it made the sound the whole way there but failed to make it with the tech in the car.

    Any ideas what this could be?

    Also, what is a PCV valve's function, is it important to replace, and when should it be done?
  • Sounds like perhaps an exhaust leak from the manifold? Sometimes this type of manifold leak will "swell shut" when the engine gets hot enough.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 187
    So I have been a frequent poster on Edmunds for my Chryslter 300M and Jeep Grand Cherokee and just took a look on this site for my "old car" which I have owned since new in late 94 and always babied and done every maintenance work on time ... one reason I am frustrated by this problem.

    My 94 Grand Prix with 3.1 L V6 may have been demonstrating this "piston slap" noise problem since new. It has always had valve noise when cold, and the past 4 years started burning more oil. Of course this is a 11 year old car with 111k miles now so I really don't expect much other than to try and find a reasonable way to salvage it for my son that wants it for his last year of high school and driving to college. A couple mechanics say just drive it running rough as it is until it conks out (especially rough in the winter, takes a long time to warm up and even semismooth out) - they figure it needs either a valve job, at least valve guides or maybe rings. Not worth a fix in the $1000 range for a car not worth $2000. But hard to find another car I'd trust in that price range, I have even considered dropping in a newer 3.1L from the junk yard as the basic car is in pretty good shape (but who knows what shape that's in?).

    Your lemonaid link gives me a server error. Is there any other way or easier way to fix this problem?
  • This is regarding my 1997 Grand Prix 3.8L. When I start my car and begin to move, I hear a one-time mechanical clicking sort of sound from the front drivers side and all three lights (ABS, tire pressure, and low trac) turn on. Even though the clicking is one-time, the lights will remain on until I turn the car off. Has anyone ever heard of this problem? Thanks for reading.
  • Hi,
    I've posted before (#76), but didn't get any help. Same car, an updated question.
    I think I have eliminated just about everything, except the ignition switch. I even tried a new key with the same resistance as the original one.
    Someone once told me, you can eliminate the resistor on the ignition key if you measure the resistance in ohms across the key (1.13k in this case), get an inline resistor, cut a wire from the ignition switch and install the resistor.
    If anyone knows of this method, could you please post. Also, if this is the case, would I have to remove the resistor on the key itself.
    Thank you for your time. Mike.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The ABS controller is detecting a fault and shutting the ABS off. A scan tool is required to retrieve any stored ABS trouble codes, but my bet would be a defective wheel speed sensor, which is integral with the wheel bearing/hub assembly.
  • I've owned my Grand Prix for over 6 years now and it's been pretty trouble-free so far. But it seems like every winter (since about 2000), I get this groaning noise in the front left when going over bumps at slow speed. It gets a tad worse each year...but I don't think it's a real big problem. I was just curious as to what it might be.
    I'm thinking it might be something with the struts, but I'm not sure. When I go over a bump, it kind of groans like somethings rocking back and forth...and then eventually settles after about 2 or 3 groans...depending on the size of the bump.
    Any ideas? Is that a strut problem?

This discussion has been closed.