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Chevy Malibu Maxx



  • balloo814balloo814 Posts: 16

    I bought the car on Dec 26, So maybe I will try to register again...

    As for the AC issue... I live in TX and my ac has been ok. I have a thermometer in the vent to keep an eye on things. When I get in the car after a long day in the sun, it can get upward of 150 degrees. It does take about 5 minutes or so to get to its lowest blowing temp of about 40. Not too bad... but on really hot days, it stays around 44.

    I will say though, that my silverado woud blow at a bone chilling 36. And here in TX that could cool things down in a hurry.
  • One of the inserts for the spare wheel/jack cover. I was checking out the cargo area today, looking for everything, and I found the latch/button/handle just fine, and that part of the floor folded up, but then I tried to lift the rest of the cover instead of pulling it straight back toward the hatch. POW! :blush: Super glue setting as I type.

    102 miles on Maxxwell now.
  • maxx10maxx10 Posts: 16
    :shades: I have found that if you hit the button to recirculate the air within the car, it gets freezing cold. But you have to hit the button every time you turn the car on because it resets itself.
  • "...but we are saving the environment....all good..."

    No valid evidence of a problem or saving anything. Just misinformation and inefficient air conditioning. (Freon R12 replaced by R134a)
  • balloo814balloo814 Posts: 16
    R12 depletes the ozone.
    R134a is merely a greenhouse gas...

    I hope you can get the full effect of my sarcasm...

    and by the way... I am federally certified to repair and recharge ac systems. as well as a science teacher ;)
  • "I hope you can get the full effect of my sarcasm..."
    Got it!

    More info: Freon superstitions:
  • raisncainraisncain Posts: 3
    Wow, this is odd because I am having the same problem with my '04 Malibu LT. At first I had a problem with the radio draining my battery, and to date in the past 6 mos I have had 4 new radios installed. Just last week my presets were mixed up again.This has happened more times than i can count. However my XM stations remain fine. I never thought of the key remote.....I wonder if tha's waht is causing this. My dealer still can't figure it out, it's driving me crazy. Also my CD's are jamming on occasion and / or ejecting at random. It's bizarre and it's really irritating. my car is 6 mos old! I'll mention the keyless remote thing. How were you made aware of that and can it be fixed??
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,341
    yes balloo814, but did you stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night??? :P
    My friend began to drive my colleague and I to lunch today in his 2 door Mustang. After 5 seconds in that car, I directed him to drive down to where I have my Maxx parked. We took that instead. My one colleague was mystified and extremely impressed with all the "luxuries" in a $19k car. Just one more person wondering why he paid $35k for his Acura when it doesn't have half of the creature comforts that our Maxx does (to include remote starting).
  • doombertdoombert Posts: 8
    I believe that is what the key remotes are suppose to do.
    That way if you have two different people driving the car, each person can use a different key remote and have their radio stations preset to their own preferences.
    But if you are using the same key remote every time you use the car, then this sounds like a different issue.
    I think I read it in the manual for the car.
  • kjk2kjk2 Posts: 3
    medinamalibu, in your post you mention "I have learned of the effort necessary to shut the hatch securely...". What do you mean by that? I have an 05 Maxx and all I do is start to bring it down manually and then let gravity do the rest. It always locks. :)
  • rferdrferd Posts: 28
    I had the same problem with mine that the GM Owners site did not recognize my VIN. I called them and they added it.
  • Yer a cheeky one now, ain'tcha?

    I'm not ashamed of my car now. I can say it makes me work to close the hatch, and I don't mind the eventual benefit in the form of broader shoulders. Best thing ever is when I pop the hatch from inside, then open and close my door... guess what happens? the hatch clicks shut again and makes me find that weatherproof handle to open it again! :D All in all, I'm proud to say that I own a normal Maxx.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,341
    yep, that's normal, and I too love the workout the gate gives me :D
  • kjk2kjk2 Posts: 3
    Gee, I didn't mean to offend you. I just didn't understand what you meant in your email. Cool it!
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I'm kicking around the idea of canceling the GMPP on our 2004 Maxx LT. My reasons for doing so would be: 1) just to get the money back for this instead of having the money tied up in a warranty which is basically an insurance policy. 2) i overpaid by a few hundred bucks, and canceling would be one way to minimize the amount that I overpaid. 3) our Maxx has been relatively trouble-free so far in 1st 15,000 miles. 4) we may end up selling the Maxx and I'm not sure if the GMPP would provide enough extra value to the buyer for me to justify the cost of holding on to the warranty.


    1) What do you think of the wiseness of this idea?

    2) Anybody know EXACTLY how the refund is calculated? The phone rep yesterday said it is based on time AND mileage, but I'm not sure exactly how they do it. We bought the 5 year / 90,000 mile GMPP with zero deductible. Car had 5,000 miles when we bought it. So we are covered thru 95,000 miles or 5 years. Car is at 15,000 miles now and we've had it 8 months, but it was a dealer car (driven by service mgr supposedly) for a few months before we bought it.

    My rough calculations were: The GMPP warranty still has 75,000 miles left (90k - 15k), so that would suggest a refund of 83.3% minus the $50 administrative fee; OR still have 52 months left (60 minus 8), for a refund of 86.7% minus $50. Am I on the right track with these calculations? What I suggested seems like the logical and fair way to calculate it, but you never know what GM might come up with.

    I also plan to do more math and determine if it might actually be cheaper to cancel the existing GMPP and buy one from Black's whose prices are better than what I paid. I know the rates are higher once the vehicle is used, so it might not be worth doing what I'm describing.

    One thing I learned about the GMPP. I realize some folks already knew this, but I consider myself an educated consumer and I didn't know it: Don't buy until almost 12,000 miles. To me, it seems somewhat dishonest and borderline unethical for GM and its dealers NOT to tell customers that the coverage begins at the mileage when they have purchased. E.g. if you buy a 100k warranty when car has 0 miles, the warranty expires when the car has 100k miles. But if you wait and buy warranty when car has 11,999 miles-- you still get the 'new' GMPP rate and your coverage won't expire until the car has 111,999 miles. This could be in the ballpark of an extra year of coverage, and that makes a huge difference. Of course, the dealers all pressure you to buy one right there since they know it's their best chance to make sure you buy the warranty from them, not from someone else.
  • Oh, I thought you were kidding! I'm sorry. I was just rambling about the hatch, obviously.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,341
    well, if you are considering selling a car within the first 5 years, never buy an extended warranty. The manufacturer's warranty covers you for the first 3. It makes no sense to me to buy a warranty for essentially 2 years. Since it sounds like you are contemplating selling the car, I'd get a refund on your GMPP today. Warrantees are for people like me who keep their car 10 years. Over that period, my GMPP will get used. Whether it is used enough to cover my $1,700 cost + interest is yet to be seen. But on a first year GM model with this many electronics, I'm betting I made the right choice.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    That really paid off since everything on the car broke once :sick:

    For the most part, though, these things are marked up 100% by the dealer and pay off at 25-30%. You can get a higher loss ration buying mechanical insurance with a deductable through a regulated insurance company. I don't do that either.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,341
    yeah, I seriously don't recommend that anymore. I did the research on 3 AM Best A+ rated companies 2 years ago. Two of them are now out of business. Imagine that!!! I'd stay clear of after market companies at this point.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    thanks for the feedback.

    based on hearing/reading the stories about some big automotive warranty companies going belly-up, i definitely would never buy one of those. at least not until the business climate in that area had changed drastically.

    this GMPP was the first extended warranty we've ever purchased on a vehicle. with it being a first-year model, and a GM vehicle on top of that, i didn't like the prospect of being out of warranty after about 2 years (assuming 18,000 miles per year). so the 5 yr / 90k would provide an extra 3 years coverage. That's expensive coverage at $1,695 but at the time i didn't want to risk it. of course, i didn't realize i could have waited 6+ months and purchased the same warranty, extending the coverage longer because it starts when you buy the ext warranty, not when you buy the vehicle.

    so far, the car has not been back to the dealer. there's a small list of issues to be resolved soon, biggest of which is what feels like warped rotors. other than that, the initial quality has been better than expected.
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