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Ford F-150 SUPERCREW

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Comments

  • bguebertbguebert Posts: 1
    Looking at super crew 4x4 with 5.4. Could any one tell me about gas mileage they get driving around town and on highway. Looking to pay invoice, did anyone get a better
    deal without a ford plan. I have read a lot of good things about truck, besides radiator problems is there any other complaints?
  • sdeleonsdeleon Posts: 4
    I purchased a SuperCrew 4X4 with the 5.4 and am getting around 14-15 mpg. On the highway it seems to be in the upper teens. I paid $500 below invoice and I ordered it the way I wanted it. About bedliners, I had a sprayed-in liner on my last truck and, in my opnion, it's the best thing you can do for the truck bed (it's still expensive). For my SuperCrew, I ordered a rubber mat from Cabelas.com - PENDAPAD BED MAT ITEM: XA-51-2677- perfect fit!
  • I have a 2001 SCrew 5.4 2WD. I've only filled the tank 5 times (1262 miles). My worst MPG is 12.7, my best is 13.1. It doesn't seem to matter how hard or easy I drive it. My mileage is about 90-95% city-suburb driving (25-45 mph). I'm often told that it will improve with break-in, but I've kept very accurate records with previous trucks and I don't expect more than 1 MPG improvement.

    Tires are a big influence. I have General Grabber AP tires on mine. I have seen a drop of as much as 3 MPG (on an Explorer 4WD) by changing from the original tires to a more aggressive tread (same tire size).
  • I am still shopping and so far the Screw is leading. My only concern is the amount of posters here who have been opting for the 5.4 instead of the smaller V8. I won't be towing anything heavier than a trailer and lawnmower, if that. Most of my miles will be to the job (less than 10 miles round trip) and the once a year vacation to Gulf Shores or other spot within 500 miles or so. Do I need the 5.4 for this kind of use or can I save the $800 for taxes? Thanks for any input.
  • rtantonrtanton Posts: 10
    I just got a SCrew 5.4 and here is the way I though about it:

    Yes, it does cost more for the initial price.

    The RATED (I haven't had mine long enough to give you a real story on my gas mileage yet) MPG is no more than 2 MPG less than the 4.6.

    I rarely, but occationally have heavy loads in the back of my truck/towing.

    Higher resale with the bigger V8.

    I weighed all these and came up with the choice to get the bigger engine. I would if I were you.

    Well boys, I got my SCrew this past week and I love it. 2001 4x2 SCrew XLT 5.4l, Class III towing package, 3.55 limited slip, powere drivers seat, 6 disc CD, sliding rear window, bed liner and a bed extender for $23,000 on the X-plan. I'm happy. Here is my only concern:

    The damn thing has a cheap dark grey plastic grille. I've been looking at billet aftermarket grilles, or maybe calling the parts department and seeing what a honeycomb would cost.

    Anyone out there using billet products? Reccomendations?

    RT
  • hey rtanton.

    I saw on the 150online site that theres a way to buy into the xplan for $40. How do the determine the cost and was your 23k before taxes and reg. I'm looking for a xlt/4x4/5.4/ls/moon/tow/power-heated 60/40 seats/skid/bedxtend/ going e/ stock tires and will replace with a decend set.
  • here's a follow up..........how'd you get it for $23k, thats over $3,000 below factory invoice base don the options you have listed, was it mor elike $26K, that would put it around 300 below Fac Inv. Which is more what I've read where it should be....
  • seldomseentoo,

    If you take the MSRP times .875 that will put you real close to X-plan price. X-plan usually works out to dealer invoice less $100-300, depending on price of vehicle. Plus, you are eligible for any factory incentives such as rebates and low financing. The price on x-plan is predetermined and set by Ford, dealer can't screw with you.
  • bluecrewbluecrew Posts: 2
    I RECENTLY PICKED UP MY WEDGE WOOD BLUE/ARIZONA BEIGE SCREW. DEALER HAD IT IN THE SHADE TO BE LOOKED OVER AND EXPLAIN OPTIONS ON TRUCK. WHEN I GOT HOME I NOTICED SWIRLING MARKS ON THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR IN THE SUN LIGHT. (THESE SWIRLS ARE NOTICEABLE ONLY WHEN THE SUN HITS THEM!). HAS ANYONE ELSE EXPERIENCED THIS? AND WHAT CAN BE DONE TO FIX IT!. PS. THIS TRUCK WAS ORDERED, SO I BELIEVE THE SWIRLS ARE FROM THE FACTORY. THANKS.
  • I bought my Screw last June and have seen what it can do through most weather and conditions. I have the 5.4l, 4wd, bed extender, tow package, 16" chrome with the Goodyear Wrangler tires cloth interior with the power options on locks and windows.

    I pull a two horse trailer from time to time, and even with two horses in the trailer, this truck has the power to move along without a problem, even in hills.

    I have 13,000 miles on it now and have had no problems with the drive train other than an occasional harsh shift from 1st to 2nd gear when it is cold.

    I live in northern Ohio and was able to see this truck through the winter with no problems.

    Parman, I would recommend the 4wd without a doubt. Even with the cab weight being moved back a bit from the conventional cab, the traction got a little squirly on slush without the 4wd. ( I think the Wrangler tires suck when it comes to wet and slushy pavement, but that's the tires and not the truck. at least they're not Firestone)

    I have taken a couple trips of 600-700 miles in it and begin to forget I'm driving a truck, with the full size back seatand the smooth ride.

    We have three rather large dogs, and the fold down seats are wonderful for them. WARNING. If you are going to put dogs in the back seat and allow them to stick their noses out the partially open window be careful. I suggest opening the window to a point and locking it. My dog stepped on the switch and closed his nose in the power window. The placement of the switch on the top of the armrest makes this possible. (that's also a sound that scares the hell out of you when you are driving down the road)

    Gas milage is about as I expected and as others have mentioned, about 14-17 mpg kind of regardless of where I drive. I have a tonneau cover also, which will add a 1 or 2 mpg over the open bed.

    Now for the BUT.

    This past week I had the first opportunity since the snow and ice, to get out a really get intimate with a wash job. When I washed the bottom of the truck off, I found that the majority of paint on the differential and cover is all but gone and a heavy layer of rust is already forming on these surfaces.
    The chrome rear bumper is rusting around the cut out for the license plate and where the lights are mounted on it, The ends of the bumper are pitted and rusting through the chrome surface. The chrome on the wheel bolt caps is all rough and beginning to have pits in all the inside corners.
    The undercoating on the frame is gone in almost all areas where welds and joints are located and beginning to rust also.

    I am making an appointment for this truck to be checked out by the dealer as soon as I can, because I want this truck to last at least until the end of my 5 year lease.

    I didn't see any other comments about rust or corrosion, and wouldn't have thought I would be experiencing it on a brand new truck myself.
    I hope this information will help some other owners or potential owners with SCrews.
  • rtantonrtanton Posts: 10
    First, an explanation of the X-Plan:

    The X-Plan is the A-Plan price (on the invoice of every vehicle) plus 4%. Since the A-Plan is 3% below dealer invoice, then you would extrapolate the X-Plan being 1% over dealer invoice.

    Sorry for the mix up on my reported paying price. I checked the contract to make sure I reported the right price this time: $27k even. Truck retailed for just a shade over $30k. $23 is what I paid after my trade-in, and reported to ya'll in error. Sorry boys! I was also able to grab 6.9% and $500 cash back (dealer pre-dated the sale for me to get the special rates). Not a bad deal overall.

    Question for the group:

    Has anyone here had any experience with Billet Grilles? I bought mine with a cheap dark grey platic job that makes the whole front-end look like [non-permissible content removed]. F150world.com has them for $80 delivered and says that it's easy to install. Anyone have the REAL story?

    Also, what is the no-kiddingbest exhaust for an F-150 5.4l if you are mildly interested in a performance boost and a moderate interested in adding a little "throat" to the exhaust note?

    Thanks, and again, sorry.

    RT
  • rowdybrowdyb Posts: 1
    I purchased a new 2001 Super Crew 4x4 about two weeks ago. Options include 5.4, auto, xlt, and class III towing package. Before purchasing the truck I read a series of messages on here talking about some of the class III equipped trucks not coming with the heavy duty radiator even though it is a part of the class III towing package. I raised this concern with the dealer who assured me that my truck had the proper radiator.

    Can someone tell me exactly how to determine if I have the correct radiator? I recall seeing that the radiator sizes were 1.02 vs. 1.42 inches or something like this. Where do I make this measurement? Is this the thickness of the radiator front to back or something else? Just looking at my radiator I don't think it is almost 1.5 inches thick.
  • rtantonrtanton Posts: 10
    I have the exact setup as you, and I believe there are 2 separate radiators. I know that the tranny cooler is on the lower-front part of the radiator itself. I'll have to look tomorrow and see what I see from under the front of my truck. My wife has it on a short trip. Argh!

    RT
  • buddywbuddyw Posts: 5
    to grape dog and all others i have been looking for a cap since may 00 what i found is leer-dont like the rear window hinge. snug-top the best looking but the closest one for the south is in missouri web www.snugtop.com - and century truck caps what they have now is the ultra series looks good but! sometime in may or june they will offer the royal series it will give more suv look flush windows and the rear window will have two point hinge.web wwwcenturycaps.com the price here in ga. for the century royal is 1395.00 the leer 1182.00 i'll wait on century to get the royal made ..
  • cat36cat36 Posts: 2
    It took only 26 days from the day I ordered till the day it arrived. I payed invoice minus the $500.00 rebate and I didn't see the salesman till the day I picked it up, I did every thing over the phone. What I got was a 2 wheel drive, XLT with 5.4, trailer tow and bed extender in black with dark graphite. Also ordered the bed mat for the Harley S/Crew thru the dealer. I have gone thru 2 tanks of gas and got 14.4 MPG on the first and 15.3 on the second , not bad for 100% city driving. Love this Truck !
  • volhatervolhater Posts: 3
    I will pick up my new screw tomorrow. I want to know if I got a good deal. I paid $32,650 for a lariat 4x4 with these options off road package, 5.4 e.g.,6 disc ad,cab steps,captain chairs, limited slip axle, two tone, moon roof, trailer towing ,bed inner, and lidding rear window. I also need to know if I should purchase an extended warranty or not. I hope I love the truck it is the first one I have ever owned.
  • lullman1lullman1 Posts: 15
    Volhater, You should have asked before buying. You paid about $1,000.00 to much. I bought a King Ranch Edition for $350.00 more than your paying. I priced them both and the KRE was a $1,400.00 upgrade from the fully loaded Lariat you describe.As far as the warranty I was quoted $1,070.00 for 6 yr. 100,000 mile ESP with free oil changes every 3000 miles.
  • bwexler1bwexler1 Posts: 6
    rowdyb...Measure your radiator by looking just under the fan shroud towards the driver side. Between the cooling fins, not the side of the tank.I will bet you it's 1.02"It should be 1.42"I. had mine replaced with no hassle.
  • rtantonrtanton Posts: 10
    I've done some research on my own here, and from what the Internet sites (www.warrantydirect.com specifically) have told me is that you can get cheaper, more inclusive service through them as opposed to buying a more expensive extended, very limited, warranty from the dealership. These guys will replace items that have gone bad just from wear-and-tear (obviously not tires or brakes).

    I was quoted $950 bumper-to-bumper, no deductible for 6 years 72K miles.

    Anyone have any more experience here?

    RT
This discussion has been closed.