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  • luckyjackluckyjack Posts: 6
    Now that I'm 'waitin on delivery of my Screw (hopefully late July), I can turn to investigating the two major after-market items I'm interested in: bed liner and bed cover.

    Just a little surfing on internet shows there are a huge number of options, so any comments (pro's and con's of various styles and brands, cost, etc.) from Screw owners on these items most appreciated. Directions to websites would be great if available.

    Only thing I've pretty much ruled out at this point is the one-piece, solid type cover 'cause I want to be able to load large/tall items.

    Thanks in advance.

  • atlanta4atlanta4 Posts: 51
    The truck accessories topic on this site has some good discussion on bedliners & hard -vs- soft bed covers. I've been reading it recently while debating my purchase & it seems most people that use their truck to carry a lot like the spray in bedliner (line-x, rhino) over the drop in plastic type. Seems to make sense when you read the posts but it just gives me pause to think of spraying something that wont come off on a brand new truck. I'd have to see it installed first. As far as bed covers - several posts favored the hinged Berlin soft tonneau cover for around $200-250. Anyway, there was some good info there if you get a chance to check it out.
  • 19491949 Posts: 59
    Ditto to Atlanta4's suggestion....I found some great links to accessory sites from the truck acc. topic.
    Re: Bedliner....I've seen many owners that are down on drop-in liners, who cite such things as slippery surface which creates problems with small loads sliding all over the bed. Another issue is water that somehow sits beneath the liner and causes rust. I, too am apprehensive about having something "sprayed" into a bed. I did notice some new trucks at the dealership with spray-in liners that were very neatly applied by a local vendor. Some owners swear by them, pointing out durability and slip-resistant surface. I guess it just depends on what type of compound is used as to durability. Cost is $300-$400. I'm going to also add billet grill and chrome nerf bars, in place of factory black running boards. Good luck.
  • tkenny53tkenny53 Posts: 41
    Just was quoated, $300 over invoice in Los Angeles, plus 129 for ???. Anybody done better??
  • rsavrsav Posts: 1
    Dealer is offering fully loaded SCREW LARIAT 4x4 with 5.4L V8, moonroof, cabsteps, Heated seats for $30,250. Was wondering does anyone think they will eventually offer 0.9% financing later in the year or early next year. With Dodge coming out with a full 4-dr truck I would think FORD will come down in interest rates and/or rebates so they keep the lead on truck sales as they don't want to lose prospective buyers. Right now they have 1K off and 3.9% for 36 months here in Omaha.
  • lullman1lullman1 Posts: 15 You will find more information about Supercrews (and most other Ford trucks) than you could ever need. Beware, if you put it on your favorites list you will read it daily. Excellant message boards!
  • tom667tom667 Posts: 1
    If you are going to be towing a boat, I would reconsider the bed cover. In order to line up the trailer properly as you are backing down a boat ramp, you need to lower the tail gate and unsnap the cover. It can be a bit time consuming to line up all the snap buttons each time you do that.

    I would also caution against leaving the cover unsnapped for any length of time as the cover can stretch and/or contract in odd places giving you a devil of a time getting it back into proper position.

    I won't go near those on my next truck.
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Posts: 262
    I back a boat into a number of ramps, you haven't backed one until you try it with a SD CC 4x4 with a cap on.
  • jimbob7216jimbob7216 Posts: 15
    I just signed the papers late this afternoon on my Toreador Red/Silver SC/XLT. My question is about the tires that come with the truck. The dealership gave me a good deal, $300 over invoice, less $1,500 rebate, and 5% interest on a 3 yr lease.

    What they would not do is give me any other choice of tire, but did say that for $300 they could have Michelns put on it.

    Are the generals any good? Should I just get the Michelns? What do you think guys? I have to call the dealership by Sunday noon.

  • mikebikemikebike Posts: 2
    I am looking at a 2001 F150 I crew Lariat with the limited slip rear end and towing package

    invoice costs I/ options is 26,477 they will do it for 26,506 (they keep the 500 rebate)

    oh yes ... plus tax....

    it all seems too easy ---------is this a reasonable deal ??

    thanks for your input
  • connonconnon Posts: 52
    I wouldn't touch Michelins , let alone pay an extra $300 for them.Go with the Generals. BTW, my KR Screw came with Goodyears.I just wonder if Firestone will survive this scandal like they did the 500 series recall.I have Firehawks on my 76 Vette and think they are great.
  • jschira1jschira1 Posts: 7
    Anything over invoice for a 2001 right now is too much. You ought to be buying at invoice or below. Remember, there is a 3% holdback, so even at invoice the dealer is making $800 - $1000.

    Michelin have never tested out very well in the tire tests done by Consumer Reports. They have always been the most expensive tire, but middle of the road as far as performance. You probably will get long life out of them. I have known people that get 80,000 miles or more on a set of Michelins.

    B.F. Goodrich Radial Long Trail (OEM on some F150s) or Bridgestone Dueler A/T have topped Consumer Reports test. The Bridgestones looks really good too. Don't let the agressive tread pattern of the A/T fool you, they really ride pretty smooth and quiet.

    You can also look at Yokohama Geolander H/T or Bridgestone Dueler H/L. Both scored very well. They are more of an SUV tire and do not look as aggressive as the Dueler A/T. The Yokohamas are a little cheaper than B.F. Goodrich or Bridgestone. You can go Consumer Reports website to learn more.
  • mikebikemikebike Posts: 2
    I posted just above in #731 am looking at a 2001 F150 I crew Lariat with the limited slip rear end and towing package

    invoice costs I/ options is 26,477 they will do it for 26,506 (they keep the 500 rebate) plus tax

    when you say invoice or below ... how does the $500 rebate fit in .... to me or them if I am below invoice......

    I do not mean to be dense.... I just want to get the best deal I can ...
  • jimbob7216jimbob7216 Posts: 15
    Thanks connon and jschira 1 for the feedback on the Generals and the Michelins. I will go with the Generals.

    Mikebike, the rebate is YOUR money! If you give it to the dealer, then it's like saying invoice plus $529. Email the internet sales managers of the Ford dealerships in your area, with exactly the truck you are looking for, and ask for firm quotes. The more dealerships you email, the better the picture becomes. Some will respond with exactly what you are looking for, that is, a firm quote on the truck you want, and it can be a very clean, easy deal for you at the best possible price.

    Good luck.

  • jschira1jschira1 Posts: 7
    Mikebike - Jimbob7216 is right. If you let the dealer keep the rebate, that's like giving the dealer another $500. You should be at or below invoice before figuring any rebate. The rebate is your money. I don't know what F150's are selling for in your area, but around here (Dallas-Fort Worth), most dealers are selling F150's for $500 - $1000 below invoice. Some even cheaper. I bought my Screw 2 weeks ago. MSRP was $27900. Invoice was $24,700. I paid $22,400. No rebates here. Another dealer is taking $6400 off MSRP on Lariat 4x4's (loaded - MSRP $35,400, selling for $28,998). But this is Texas, where big dealers sell more trucks than cars, so truck deals can get pretty good, especially at the end of the model year.

    Jimbob7216 - I have Generals on my truck too. We are in the dry season in North Texas, so I will keep these tires for now, but will switch to the Bridgestone Dueler A/T's when the rainy season starts in the fall. I had a 2000 GMC with Generals and had to try and avoid a bus that cut in front of me during a rainstorm. Ended up hitting the bus and the guardrail. The only body panel not damaged was the roof and the tailgate (repair bill was $6800, paid for by the bus company insurance). I don't know if different tires would have helped, but I got away from that one without a scratch, and if new tires will help prevent even a little a repeat performance, they are worth the money. On a positive note, wrecking my GMC gave me a good excuse to trade it in and get my Screw.
  • truckdudetruckdude Posts: 55
    Can you tell me what the monthly lease payment and residual are on your truck? I am interested in a lease but so far haven't seen anything that appealing. I'm assuming with a 5% equivalant lease factor the monthly payments are pretty reasonable.
  • jimbob7216jimbob7216 Posts: 15
    My walk-out price, TTL incl, was 23,287. My lease is no money down, $361 for 35 months. As you know, at that point I either turn in the truck, (which I will do), or buy it for the residual.

  • kbehnkekbehnke Posts: 60

    What was the MSRP on your truck? Was it just the base 4x4 XLT SC, or did you have any options? How many miles/yr are you allowed? From what I've seen advertised where I live (Midwest), it seems like you got a pretty good deal.

    Also, was it really a 35 month lease, or was that just a typo?

    Thanks in advance!
  • reid7reid7 Posts: 1
    jshira1 - Can you tell me what dealer in Dallas you used to buy your Screw ? I haven't been very successful at getting price quotes out of dealers over the phone or internet, and when I do they are quoting $2-3K over invoice. If you can tell me the dealer and even the salesmans name I would appreciate it.
This discussion has been closed.