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2013 and earlier-Honda CR-V Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • varsivarsi Posts: 2
    That is a fair deal. I am also shopping one of that kind (CR-V ; 2WD - LX ). Can you pls provide me the dealer name & location in NC. I am currently in Raleigh.

  • varsivarsi Posts: 2
    I am also shopping for (CR-V ; 2WD - LX ). Can you pls provide me any dealers & location in and around Raleigh,NC who can sell at the Invoice or less than Invoice.

    Thanks in Advance

  • Let me have your email or tel number at following address for info...

    erudite.res at betaemail. com
  • art662art662 Posts: 1
    Thanks for the Tip to bajsharp and ewujun for helping me in your posts.

    I also contacted Castrucci of the best deal I could find. It's a 4 hour drive from home in Indiana to Cincinnati for the best deal.
    Beat any dealer in our area by 1,000.00 and 550.00 less that Louisville's lowest.
    2010 CR-V EX-L 2wd Polished Metal with Black Leather

    24,750.00 with destination
    250.00 doc fee
    1732.50 7% Indiana Sales Tax
    30.50 Title and Tag Fee

    26763.00 Out the door.

    Some might have done better, but I'm pretty happy.
    Thanks again -
  • eka1eka1 Posts: 28
    don't understand your point. so when you sell your car to a dealer or person do you think anyone is going to believe or care that its highway miles. The way I see it is miles are miles no matter if you drive city or highway
  • stripe1stripe1 Posts: 72
    eka1: Hey genius, living in a city, and daily driving from red light to red light, and top sign to stop sign is tough on ANY car. And, don't forget the stop and go traffic. More gas is used, brakes need replacng much sooner, w/alignment('s) done much sooner from mucho pot holes, tires wear, more oil + filter changes, inside cabin filter changed more often, a/cleaner under hood changed more often, much harder on transmission. I have 42,000 miles on vehicle, and brakes are like new. Shall I go on? Yes, people do care. I strongly believe most people on this site share the same though's.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,671
    People care.. but, no one believes it.. (enough to pay more for it)

    And.. dealers, especially don't care... because, they have no way to prove it on resale..

    So.. it sounds good, but in the market, it is, "miles are miles".. If you are selling the car to your neighbor or best friend, then it might be worth more to them, because they can verify it... (but, then.. can you really get top dollar from a neighbor or friend?).

    That is the hard truth, I'm afraid.. Fortunately, a car this is well cared for will show in the cosmetics and service records. That is what will set your car apart.


    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • fasttexfasttex Posts: 24
    edited March 2010
    It is one of the myths of the car business, so miles are miles. Most dealers now use two sources to determine the value of a trade, the "Black Book" which is updated about weekly or the Mannheim auction which tells them EXACTLY what a car likes yours sold for at auction. If you plan to sell your car privately you must get at least 20% more for it than on a trade as most states charge sales tax on the trade difference. Professional salesman are struggling to sell cars, what makes you think that you can do better? Have people come to your car lot, arrange financing, fix everything that needs fixing, negotiate with an idiot that wants to beat you up on the price (that's the point of this forum) and then deal with them after the sale. Use average trade value (80% of 4-year-old cars are average) from Edmunds and you will know what to shoot for and if you get a bit more, that's great!! Dealers are taking a chance on ANY used car they take in, after all, it's USED. :shades: :shades: :shades: :shades:
  • rusurerusure Posts: 10
    strip1: Hey Junior, eka1's comment was about the irrelevancy highway miles has on the resale of your car, not how much worse stop and go driving is on the vehicle. I think most educated auto people are aware of the stop/go impact on a car. His point is spot on. None of the publications NADA, KBB, Edmunds, Galves, etc) that list used car prices have a "highway miles" section. At the end of the day, if I'm buying your used honda, my offer is going to be based on the published value of the car - period.
  • samizazasamizaza Posts: 1
    The best price I could find in Massachusetts OTD including Tax(6.25%): $29,370

    On a scale from 1 to 10 (10 being Excellent), where does this deal fall?

    Any one in New England with a better deal?
  • stripe1stripe1 Posts: 72
    rusure, man you appear to be an expert about everything. The bottom line my friend, most people looking for a 2nd hand vehicle, and if they had a choice between two exact vehicles with one being mostly highway driven (no lights/stop signe), and the other city driving with lot's of stop and go's, would prefer the former. And, you being an expert I'm sure would say the same. ru interested in buying my mostly open highy driven Accord?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I think the point is that even though you know that 35,000 of the 41,000 were highway driven, a buyer has no way to verify that. Other than your word, there is no other way to determine which of the miles were higway and which were not.

    If you look at the classifieds in the paper, every car in there has highway miles, which begs to question, who the heck is driving on the streets and clogging them up if every car is highway driven.

    I am not questioning your integrity, but, for someone to shell out extra dough for something they can not prove beyond reasonable doubt is a tough pill to swallow. Which, makes your 41,000 miles no different than the 41,000 miles on the car next to it.

    So, yes, you can differentiate your vehicle from the other by stating that it has 35,000 highway miles out of 41,000 total miles. But, don't expect someone to pay more for it. You may get a quicker sale, as a buyer would find you trustowrthy and prefer to buy from you than the next guy with 41,000 miles, but a buyer will not pay more for your ride than the other 41,000 miler.

    What if the other guy swears that all 41,000 miles are highway?
  • rusurerusure Posts: 10
    Strip1:First, thank you for the compliment. And yes, an expert like myself might possibly be able to determine if you were blowing smoke by looking at the brake peddle for excessive wear for example, but it would be a stretch to make any definitive conclusions. Unless your car comes equipped with that rare trip odometer, you know, the one that automatically keeps track of highway miles on Trip A and city miles on Trip B, the majority of people on this board are going to determine the value of your vehicle based on available used car price publications and not your promise. And that my friend, imsure. ;)
  • tonyc32tonyc32 Posts: 2
    Just picked one up for $20,900 including destination. Add in $1025 MA sales tax, and $398 fees and registration and I got it for $22,323 OTD. Decent deal?
  • dsfingerdsfinger Posts: 11
    edited March 2010
    I live in VA and was just quoted $27,461 OTD for 2010 CRV EXL AWD w/o Navi. I'll be doing the same homework but thought you'd like to know about quotes here.
    Has anyone purchased an EXL w/o Navi that can comment?
  • rkj1rkj1 Posts: 11
    Hi tonyc32. Congratulations!!
    Its about the right price. I am also going to pick up my CRV LX AWD @ Following price

    $21195 (Include Destination + Remote Starter) + $1500 NJ Tax (7%) + $275 Dealer Fee + around $295 DMV Fees
    Total = $23200 - Its higher for me because of NJ Tax (7%) and dealer fees. I don't know how you skip dealer fees here.
  • rkj1rkj1 Posts: 11
    Hi jik. Would you mind telling me how much in total (OTD) did you pay finally and which dealer have u bought it from ?
  • eruditereseruditeres Posts: 9
    edited March 2010
    One doesn't 'skip' dealers fee, rather have the dealer agree to a price inclusive of fees, and then push down that price. Dealer will adjust vehicle sale price lower to add on dealer fee. Key is not to let them spring in their fee after you have batten the price down, batten them together.

    Memories: 12 years ago, I refused to pay the $299 doc fee. The sales person pointed to a plaque on the wall that stated it was mandatory. I countered "so if I put a plaque in my home that every guest has to pay up $10, would the guests pay?!". He was taken aback and could not quite get composure back - too unexpected for him. He got up abruptly, red faced, and said, I could leave if I didn't plan on buying the car, and the $299 was non-negotiable. I simply went back to the door and asked for another salesman. Not too soon after the original sales person came and asked if $100 doc fee was okay. I agreed. I was desperate to buy the car that day - my prior car was dead and I had traveled 100mi to bargain.

    PS Check my last post 9791. that price includes $400 dealer fees, I just didn't separate it out.
  • Not to ruffle feathers, but what makes people go for top of the line CRV w/Navi? Its almost $8000 more than Cloth LX, and there is always a risk that if it gets totaled, because of someone else's fault, the owner could lose a lot. Optioned up cars also shed more $$ with time, so even at sales time, cost of ownership per year can be high. Just an honest question.
  • stripe1stripe1 Posts: 72
    rusure, I consider myself to be an honest person. There's an old saying, "would you buy a car from that use car salesman?" The question is meant to be a joke, and the answer was usually "no." However, if that question was meant for me then the answer would be yes, definitely.

    I'm attempting to sell my car to people in my development who know me. Most know that I travel back to my "root's" quite often. It was difficult making a move from an area where I lived all my life. On most days it's apprx. a 180 mile round trip, with majority of travel t/pike, and open rode with no light's or stop signs. I've cut back the drive, for I'm finally getting use to my new envirement.

    I went to a Honda Dealer, and purchase a 2010 EX-L CR-V. My 2006 Accord EX-L V-6 Sdn was to be use for trade. After receiving what I thought was a great price ($25,961), I was looking to get at least $13,500 to $14,000 for my 06. I feel my 06 Accord is 90% show room condition. I must of fell asleep at the wheel, for the sales manager talked me into $12,500, for the trade, after I ask for $13,500. From what I've seen, dealers are selling my type car model from $18,000 to $19,000+. He mention saving on sales tax by trading, and all the other talk when trying to sell a car..

    When I arrived home, and wrote down numbers in regard to me selling my car privately, the numbers were much different, like $2000++ different. I signed most of the papers to buy the CR-V, and I stated that I'd come back Thursday to pick up vehicle. I gave a $500 hold from my c/c. I called yesterday, and inform dealer that I was changing things, for I want to buy the CR-V out right with no trade, and that my bank gave me an open check to pay for CR-V OTD of $28,200. I'm sure they are probably pis***, but the money is better in my pocket then theirs.

    My only problem, now I have to advertise the sale of my 06 Accord. It's rednaldo red, mud guards, matching color d/edge guards, moon roof visor, pin stripe w/small "H" at each q/panel, wheel locks, gold package, garage kept, and paid subscription to satilite radio until December. Also, I have the car detail twice a year by a shop in Manahawkin, NJ, and is dealer certified, for service done by a Honda dealer in Philadelphia The odometer turned 43,000 miles today.

    What I do need from the board is advise on how to sell the vehicle other then from inside my development. I was ASKING $17,000, but I decided on a firm price of $15,900. Also, how would I have if I want to cancel my contract to buy the CR-V?

    Thanks for the patience.
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