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Dodge Dart/Plymouth Valiant

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  • correct and another thing i found out is the regulator was mounted on the coil.. :confuse:
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    The 1965 Dodge Dart slant 6 did not have the voltage regulator mounted on the coil, or anywhere near it. It was located on the firewall. So I'm concerned that you are either mistaking another part for a voltage regulator, or are using information which does not apply to your car model, or your car's electrical system has been modified.

    This all needs to be cleared up before I can give you any further advice. I would suggest you go to an auto parts store and look at a new voltage regulator made for a 1965 Dart slant 6. After you see what the part looks like, look under the hood of your car at the ignition coil, which is located on the passenger side of the engine, near the front, behind the alternator. (There is a heavy wire leading from the top of the coil to the center of the distributor cap, surrounded by all the spark plug wires.) And see whether there really is a voltage regulator like the one you saw at the store, which is mounted on the coil.

    If you have a digital camera, you can also take a picture of the coil and regulator, and include it in your next post.

    Thank you.
  • ur right, i was looking at the wrong part on the schematic.. and there was some tampering on the electrical system which has been taken care of.. thanks for the reply
  • i changed the alternator and the problem still exists :mad:. i have the battery on the charger so hopefully thats my problem.. ;) i will be going to the local napa and buying another regulator just in case, that will take away any doubt.i have been working on this thing and i love this thing more and more.
  • for sale 1963 plymouth valiant 200 complete it runs fair i have this car stripped for painting i have all the chrome hub caps an pictures
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,716
    hi cgreen, and welcome to the forums. Remember though that we don't allow classifieds in the forums. Try www.collectorcartrader.com or www.hemmings.com. But please join us for conversation about Valiants or any other cars you enjoy talking about.

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  • poncho65poncho65 Posts: 3
    I have just bought my first Dodge car a 1965 Dodge Dart 225 however it requires a little help. I cannot seem to get the car to start. It turns over great and seems to ignite then dies. I have owned several Ford products over the years and when the ignition switch is in the "RUN" position you can externally start the car at the starter solenoid. On this car if I do that all it will do is turn over and never catch.
  • texasestexases Posts: 5,671
    Well, it's either spark or fuel - do you get gas squirting when you pump the accelerator? Does it have good plugs and points, correctly adjusted (timing too)? If you have a timing light, does it show a spark going to each of the plugs when you turn it over?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,716
    Oh I know THAT one. It's the ballast resistor on the firewall. Change it and you're good to go. Free root beer float if I'm wrong. (just kidding, I'm not allowed to give consolation prizes).

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  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,881
    You know. I'll bet you're right!

    I had forgot about those ballast resistors. They don't fail often but when they do, that's how they act.

    Now, where to find one?
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,108
    Oh, it's like a $1.99 part, and you can get them at just about any auto parts store. Or, at least you used to be able to. Now, the last time the one in my '68 Dart failed, that car would still run, but it just ran really badly. The way the mechanic explained it to me, when the ballast resistor failed it allowed the full current to go to the distributor, and that fried the points.

    I dunno how interchangeable the parts are, but by '79, Chrysler was still using ballast resistors in their cars. At least, both my NYer and 5th Ave have this thing mounted on the firewall that's a dead ringer for one! Only difference is, it's on the passenger side, versus the driver's side on the Dart.
  • poncho65poncho65 Posts: 3
    Ok we now have a new ignition switch, new ballast resistor and starter solinoid; what we do not have is constant ignition. Again the car seems to ignite when the key is turned to the start position when released to the run position it dies instantly.... I am still totally lost. anyone know where i can find a wiring diagram for this hunk of steel?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,716
    Okay, do this:

    Turn key to ON position.

    Take test light, ground one end, stick pointer onto PLUS side of ignition coil.

    Do you get a light? If not, your ignition switch or wiring is bad or mixed up.

    Trace it back from the PLUS side of the coil and checked every connection until you find voltage somewhere. You must have a break.

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  • poncho65poncho65 Posts: 3
    Thank you very much for your assistance it was a broken ground wire to the ignition wiring harness
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,881
    That drives people nuts.

    Good Job, Joe!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,716
    (BOW)

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  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,108
    Good. Now get over here and get my 338,000 miles, hasn't started in 6 years POS edition '68 Dart running, Shifty! :P
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,716
    I....am.....getting....a......message.....from.....your.....car......it....needs- ....a......a.....a......no, the message has faded....

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  • redddoggredddogg Posts: 3
    I have a 65 dart gt i am starting to restore the car but i am missing the chrome for the front of the hood . any idea where i might get one?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,716
    Get a copy of Hemmings motor news and start there. First you call the parts guys, then you call any club that might have GT members, then you can even call up people selling GTs and ask them about parts they got for their restorations.

    www.hemmings.com

    It's all out there, somewhere, but you gotta dig on a car like yours.

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  • jbonerojbonero Posts: 2
    ebay or craigslist too.
  • jbonerojbonero Posts: 2
    I know it's old but this question show up in Google so here are some schematics for a 65 Dart:

    1965 Dodge Dart (Schematic A)

    1965 Dodge Dart (Schematic B)
  • I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the towing capacity for this car is. I would like to pull a small travel trailer with it but I'm not sure how large it can be so the car can comfortably pull it. I plan on buying a vintage trailer somewhere in the same year range as the car and work on them both as a restoration project. Any info would be appreciated thanks.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,108
    I have no idea, but as a wild guess I'd say maybe 2000 lb, max. While a Valiant may not seem like a small car by today's standards, back then it was considered a compact. In stock form, the Valiant with the 225 engine had a 2.76:1 axle ratio, and 9" manual drum brakes. Around 110 hp net (145 gross), and maybe 185 ft-lb of torque, I'd guess. I don't think it would be able to tow much, without some beefing up.

    I guess if you could swap in different gears, maybe 10" brakes off a V-8 Valiant/Dart, and perhaps install a transmission cooler and oil cooler, maybe the car would be a better tow vehicle? A 2.94:1 axle was standard in 1967, and optional in later years. That would probably be better, but still maybe not enough?
  • I plan on converting to power disc brakes cross drilled and slotted rotors and probably changing the gear ratio. I would like to keep it mostly original. I want to keep the slant six. The trailer doesn't need to be very large probably about 14 -16 foot or so. Based on that I will find out the gross weight of some trailers of that size.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,936
    you may want to check into getting a larger radiator, from a v8?, and adding a transmission cooler.
  • OK thanks. I will definitely be adding a trany cooler and a larger radiator couldn't hurt.
  • texasestexases Posts: 5,671
    I used my '72 Duster with a 198/manual 3 spd. to pull a small Uhaul trailer from Houston to San Francisco, no problems. I had previously installed a bigger radiator and a large-capacity fan. I imagine it was well under 2000 lbs, so if you're talking travel trailer, it had better be small!

    Note-while drilled and slotted rotors are good for looks, they actually aren't better for overall braking performance, and all that drilling and slotting actually can weaken the rotors. Disc brakes sure would be an improvement over the drums, though
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,716
    I'd say nothing over 1,000 lbs and even that is pushing it. You have everything against you--small engine, no transmission cooler, drum brakes, and no doubt an economy differential gearing.

    So that's about the weight of a U-Haul closed trailer that's 5 X 8 foot and empty.

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  • texasestexases Posts: 5,671
    Sounds about right. With my manual tranny I had one less thing to worry about. I used (and loaded up :surprise: ) the smallest Uhaul trailer-might be smaller than 5x8? It was 'fun' passing a guy on PCH...
This discussion has been closed.