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Just what is a good deal?

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  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    A good deal is when the dealer grudgingly gives you the keys and, as you drive away, you glance back to see your salesman with his head in his hands in the managers office. :)
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,901
    Congratulations! You got the car you wanted, and saved $900 in the process... That sounds like a great car buying experience!!

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    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • british_roverbritish_rover Posts: 8,476
    Change diff fluid every 60k.
    Change Trans fluid every 60k


    Synthetic is recommended for both the trans and the diff right?

    Secondly isn't the only way to change out the trans fluid is with a fluid exchange machine?
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Posts: 4,883
    Depends on what trans it has... I haven't read up on the E90s, but it's probably Texaco ETL Synthetic if it's an auto and probably ATF or MTL if it's a stick.

    Diff should use GL5 75W90 Synth as well.

    Except for the automatics we use Red Line as a general rule... the Texaco ETL comes in bulk containers from the dealer, costs $10-15 a Liter or thereabouts.
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,134
    lawherfirl.....congrats. You got a good deal on a great car. Sounds like your car had an MSRP of around $40K-$41K, since it's really loaded up. I paid $37K and change for mine brand new 1.5 years ago. Mine does not have the window shades, though. But it does have nav.

    I can only echo what IM brentwood said about maintenance. There's lots of debate whether you should follow the "maintenance minder" for oil changes on the BMWs. I think most of us feel they are too long. Follow im's advice and you're going to have a good car for a very long time.

    Mine's black with chocolate interirior. So, I like your color, too.
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Posts: 4,883
    I'm on a BMW tech list... already seen pics of sludged M54s from this 15k interval nonsense...
  • greanpea68greanpea68 Posts: 1,996
    If you like the car, you can afford it - don't wait until the end of the month, because if they sell it today - you will have to start over.
    If the price is reasonable, the car is right for you, it comes with warranty and you can afford it - just go for it. Get in, offer them a $1,000 off their best offer, and take $500 off.
    In a year - you won't remember how much you paid, but if the car is right - you will feel it every day.


    Nice close...
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,134
    im.....I change my oil every 5K. Just turned 18K miles. BMW sponsored "free maintenance" only covered one of my oil changes.

    No dipstick. Can't even check the oil level. God help anyone who buys one off a 5 year lease that was tuned in, and the owner only followed the BMW "maintenance schedule".
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Posts: 4,883
    Yeah there's been a lot of complaining about the lack of a dipstick in E90s.

    Had a 740i Sport come up from freehold not terribly long ago.. was a nice car, '00 Sport with about 100k. Engine sludged up badly... guy was the original owner and told that 15k oil change intervals were fine! Car came in for a blown trans.. while we were at it he asked why it ran so poorly!
  • cplyonscplyons Posts: 20
    We agreed we needed something bigger and AWD now that we've moved to the frozen North and have a King Kong toddler whose feet are usually kicking my headrest in the Acura... Also I knew that if I was going to get decent money on my trade I had to do it now, while there was still 5000+ miles left on the original mfg warranty...

    So I drove lots of CUV's... Buick Enclave, Mazda CX-9, the 08 Highlander, Murano, Pacifica... and the one we liked the best, the Hyundai Veracruz.

    Went to a nearby dealer and was treated, literally, like dirt. Long story short, this led me to do a lot of searching in a 150 mile radius to find the exact car I wanted (Limited, all options) and get quotes. Called the Internet Manager at a larger dealer around 100 miles away, who offered a price out of the box $1,000 below invoice. This was way, way better than I had gotten from my other internet contacts. We then discussed my trade and he gave me a range, the upper end of which I could live with (and was right at KBB)...

    So I pre-qualified with a lender and set up an appointment with the sales guy. My wife and I had only a brief window on a Saturday afternoon to either do this deal or leave, since our 2-year old was tearing it up with his not-entirely-up-for-it grandparents...

    We roll in to the dealership and find the vehicle prepped and ready for a test drive. Wifey and I head out (on our own) and run through a long checklist of pre-acceptance stuff. We find a few things to get cleaned up, but love the car.

    We head back and meet up with our sales guy, who offers a price for my trade above the range we had discussed on the phone. He clearly thought I was going to pound him over the value, but what he didn't know was that after a week of trying to sell it myself (Craigs List, Cars.com etc at a lower price that his offer) I had maybe one lead. And I would have lost money due to the sales tax on the full new car value. So I happily took his offer, asked for (and got) a couple of freebies and the deal was done.

    They finished prep on the car, we signed (after spending four whole minutes with the F&I guy) and we drove off. All told, first to last we spent two hours at the dealership. We LOVE the car, all expectations exceeded.

    My wife absolutely HATES buying cars and had a bad cold on Saturday - yet she said this is the best car buying experience she has ever had.

    Now, I have NO DOUBT that I could have put in some time and ground the guy down a little bit more. Maybe, possibly as much as $1,000, between the trade and the price of the new car - but I doubt it. And it just wasn't worth our time.

    We love the car. Buying the car was easy and low pressure. It was a great process. The sales guy seemed very happy with the deal. We were very happy with the deal.

    After reading this and other forums, I don't get how money is the only criterion of value received. Maybe it's me... I just don't need the ego stroke of conquering the dealership and grinding them to death. In a way this carries through to the car we bought... I mean, with the Hyundai I'm getting all the function and quality but none of the prestige. I guess I don't need the validation... but those of you who do, keep posting. It's entertaining! :)
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,134
    cplyons....the thing that I kept reading in your post was "WE LOVE THE CAR".

    That's the bottom line. You got good trade value. You bought something you love You liked the buying experience.

    There is no down side here.

    Congrats on the new ride.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,202
    did you really mean $1k below INVOICE?? Or did you mean below STICKER?

    I just can't believe they are already paying people to take such a new model off their hands.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • british_roverbritish_rover Posts: 8,476
    Well it is Hyundai they are about as bad as the domestics for offering the perception of a good deal.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,202
    Oh, I hear ya. But even Buick will sell the Enclave for above invoice for as long as their is demand.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • cplyonscplyons Posts: 20
    Oh yes, I most certainly did say $1,000 below PUBLISHED DEALER INVOICE for the loaded Hyundai Veracruz. I understand that doesn't represent what the dealer had in the vehicle, but as I reported in my post it was miles better than the other dealer offers I received.

    Sticker (manufacturer's maroney only, no dealer add-on stuff) was $38,325. I paid $34,500, and then got $500 more back from Hyundai. I did a lot of research, and as I say, I think I got a very nice deal. And, I love the car.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,202
    that was fast. i'm surprised the vehicle is such a bust for them already, especially with all this talk about it being so lexus-like. (and this isn't anything negative against the vehicle, i'm sure its very nice)

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • nortsr1nortsr1 Posts: 1,060
    Would you mind telling us the name of the dealership and where it is located.
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,134
    q...I've bought (or helped someone buy) two Hyundais. First, was my son's Elantra over 4 years ago. Snagged that one well below invoice. I kept the incentives.

    A few months ago, I helped a friend byuy a new Sonata. Got that one well below invoice, too. She kept the incentives.

    So, clearly there's some sort of Hyundai factory support $$$$ going on with the dealerships that aren't published in the usual places.
  • rroyce10rroyce10 Posts: 9,359
    I'm not so sure about a $38 and change sticker, but it matters not.

    Hyundai, like Kia have had unit bonus since the early 90's ...

    Example, if they sell 10 Sonata's in a month they'll receive $400 a unit, if they sell 15 Sonata's in that time they receive $600 a unit, etc, etc, ... that's why you see so many of their sales at invoice and below ....

    I'm sure with a heavy "cold brute" SUV like the Veracruz hitting the floorplan and being 99 degree's in most places, plus competing with players with a proven 10/15 year track record, they'll cut em' from the herd faster than the slushy lines at Dairy Queen.... ;)



    Terry.
  • cplyonscplyons Posts: 20
    Yes, I suspected there was some kind of dumping involved since they offered such a deal so quickly on a relatively new model... but after all it is a 2007 taking up space where they want the new ones to go. Wonder why no other dealers wanted to play at the same level with the same stock though?

    As you say, no one really cares but if you wanted you could check the possibly-inflated $38K MSRP on Edmunds at will. THis was Limited AWD, with Ultimate/Saddle, Roof rack, mats, cargo mat.

    The dealership is Vision Hyundai of Henrietta, suburb of Rochester. My sales guy is easy to find as he is identified as the Internet Manager on their site. He is 30 years into his gig and having a ball, by all appearances... He had maybe fifty/sixty "Sales guy of the month" plaques stacked in boxes on his desk...
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,202
    but you are talking about old or just revamped models with no public love. the veracruz seems to be a bit of a media darling and a new face on the block, to boot. i dunno. guess i was just thiking hyundai might actually have a winner for once. oh well. not that it matters much to me.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • darrvao777darrvao777 Posts: 8
    So I wanted to come here looking for some financial advice to get a good deal on car buying

    My background: Just recently graduated from college, salary is a tad under 50K annually. Looking for a car to last me 2 years (or longer). In roughly 2 years, will see a significant jump in salary (2-3x current income)

    1. Would it be in my best interest to buy a new, cheap car to string me along for 2-5 years and then purchase a new one?

    2. Would it be in my best interest to lease an affordable car for 24 months and then purchase a new car once I have more disposable income?

    3. Would a certified pre-owned vehicle be the smarter way to proceed?

    Thanks!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,837
    You're almost certain to get a majority of votes for option #1. If you can do it, it is almost always best to buy what you can easily afford NOW without stretching your budget. Oh wait, you said NEW, cheap car? Oh no. Not new.

    Pay as much cash down as you can for a cheap, used vehicle. Finance what you must. In the interim, save a bit of money every month for a nice downpayment on that new vehicle. Even when your income does go up, you will avoid the trap of being upside-down in the new vehicle you purchase.

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  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited May 2011
    Pay as much cash down as you can for a cheap, used vehicle. Finance what you must.

    Kirstie nailed it, but try and make it a fairly new (2 or 3 years old) model.
    The previous owner will have taken the depreciation hit, it should be reliable, and in case it's not it still has some warranty left.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,837
    Yes - but not a Honda or Toyota. They initially depreciate so slowly (in general) that a good deal on a late-model year vehicle is very hard to find.

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  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Yes - but not a Honda or Toyota.

    She's right, but don't hesitate if you do find a good deal on one.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,202
    of course, kirstie is right. But an inexpensive but reliable used car.

    At this point, you should be more concerned saving up what you can to buy your first home.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,278
    I will go a different way.

    If you are light on cash now, but are confident in you job, I would look for a great deal on a ST lease. Subaru has some now in the paper, and I am sure there are plenty of others.

    you should be able to get an imprezza for low $200 range, with very little due at signing. This way, your payments are low, and you can start saving as much money as possible (build a nest egg, and put some toward your next car).

    Knowing that you will want something nicer in 2-3 years, a 3 year lease (that Sube one is 39 months) times out well.

    plus, it should help keep you from doing something radical in the next year or two!

    also, you should have fixed (as in next to no) variable costs on this. Gas, insurance, payment, pretty much it.

    if you buy well used (as in cheap), it will be a whole different experience.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,202
    fresh out of school and a new job is a bad time to lease. You never know what is going to happen. I had a lease too early myself .... then me the right woman, got married, and bought a house. Wound up with a 100-mile per day commute. Yup.... bad time to be in a lease.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • sterlingdogsterlingdog North CarolinaPosts: 6,888
    I would suggest a one or two year old car. You would still have some warranty but save a ton of bucks. Don't get over your head this early in the game. You may have college loans and/or wish to purchase your first home. Also, don't buy the cheapest brand automobile available. Get a nice car at a good price. You'll have something that you can enjoy but still afford. Good luck to you.

    Richard
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