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Suzuki Aerio Maintenance and Repair

cknslscknsls Posts: 7
We just purchased an Aerio for my teenage son. We all just love the car. It is the base sedan with 5-spd. There is one problem we did not notice on the test drive. It seems that when the front windshield was made, there is a slight "wavy pattern" that you can see. While it does not inhibit your vision, it is a little irritating. Has any one else had this?
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Comments

  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    with defects in the windshield.

    I recommend taking it to te dealer for replacement - it should be perfect, not wavy.
  • Yes. Definitely get it replaced!
  • jontyreesjontyrees Posts: 159
    Here are the problems I've seen mentioned most often:

    Rattle/Buzz in the doors - this seems almost universal and is pretty annoying. I have it in mine. Apparently fixable under warranty by having the dealer reglue some insulation in the door.

    Brake Clunk at first stop after car has been stationary for a while, or after shifting into reverse. I haven't noticed this one, but it is also fixable under warranty with the replacement of a clip in the brakes

    DRL circuit causing noise in stereo - mine was so bad, I disabled the DRLs by bending a little tab back on the handbrake mechanism, (the DRLs turn off when you apply the handbrake, this fix fools the circuit into thinking the handbrake is on all the time). Another one that the dealer should fix by replacing the DRL module.

    Flimsy hardware for cargo cover. Apparently the hinges and catches break, but I never use the cover so I can't comment.

    Overall my '02 SX has been just fine so far. Got to get the door buzz fixed, though.
  • cknslscknsls Posts: 7
    I took the car back to the dealer for the windshield defect. I was told by the dealer that they had an earlier complaint from a lady on the same issue. To review, there are "clear lines" that are running through the windshield, they do not obstruct your vision, but are distracting. I was told by the dealer that the regional rep from Suzuki came out and would not acknowledge the "problem". Mind you, on the internet-the price on this windshield is $400.00. I would think that since Suzuki has such a small market share-and is trying to make a name for the company, they would go out of the way to solve an issue like this. I am in sales myself, and you do not win friends with this attitude. I left a message with Suzuki Corporate today, we will see if they call me back. Even though the quality of the car is good, unless they resolve my complaint, I will let everyone know that they do not stand behind their product! Suzuki--are you listening?
  • Having worked with manufactures I know the costs of windshields. No where near the $400 . More closer to $75.00 The new glass as compared to glass 10 years ago is much thiner.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,405
    This topic has been re-activated upon request.

    MODERATOR

  • davidd5davidd5 Posts: 79
    As for the lamp concern. Just because they say its on back order,does not mean there is a problem with the part. What could be happening is that there has never been a request for such a part and the depot does not stock it. Have you gone back to the dealer about this? There are times that a part can get lost in the ordering and never does get ordered. But I do think they should have replaced the whole light assembly. That they should have stock of. As for the oil usage,4000 miles is quite a lot between oil changes. Did you check the oil hot and after it had sat for about a minute? I know some people check there oil at differant times[cold engine,hot engine]. If the engine was cold and you just started for eg. and then said "Oh I better check my oil" And shut the engine down.It can take 1/2 an hour for the oil to come back and give you a proper reading. In the mean time you may think it's low and add oil. If ti was a leak of that size, you would see it on your driveway. A leak to get onto the clutch disc has to be MAJOR.That bucking you describe sounds to be normal with a lot of manual transaxles in first gear. My does it to. But so do most of the cars I work on.{I'm a tech at a CHRYSLER dealer.Have been for the last 15 years.} Go and try some other cars. I'm sure you will feel it,if it's what I think you are talking about. Let me know.
  • davidd5davidd5 Posts: 79
    ingtonge18. I reread your post. You said you have followed up twice on the lamp. So yes I too would demand they REPLACE the WHOLE LAMP, or take the seal off a stock unit.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Thanks for the reply. I guess someone actually cares to listen to me and answer my questions. The forum host informed me other Aerio owners have complained about the # of negative posts in the forum. Well, gee, sorry if I want to inform others of the multiple problems I'm having or try and get some feedback. Anywho, the bucking I'm describing is not normal at all. I will try to explain it a little further and see what you think.
    Here goes: It seems to happen most noticeably in the mornings after sitting overnight. It did it again this morning most of the way to work. This time it started out a bit differently. I was cruising along in 5th gear doing 55 mph. All of a sudden I felt a slight shudder and noticed the car lost power slightly and it started to loose speed, so I pressed down on the gas a little to keep my speed constant and the car jerked and bucked a little than accelerated fine. It felt almost like the clutch literally disconnected or slipped for a short time and then reengaged. After I came to a full stop and tried to restart in 1st gear, the clutch engaged 1st gear normally but than suddenly grabbed after my foot was already off the pedal as if I popped the clutch without my foot on the gas and subsequently literally throws me forward in a large bucking manuever as if I slammed on the brakes, and the car almost stalls. It will do this no matter how much care I take in engaging the clutch as smoothly and slowly as possible. The bucking/jerking I have been describing in earlier posts occurs after the clutch has already been engaged and I'm simply trying to accelerate to keep up with traffic. That's why I'm beginning to think the clutch is literally slipping and reengaging, thus causing all the herky jerky motions. The car even stalled on me abruptly on a small hill over the weekend even with lots of gas and careful engaging of the clutch. I have driven a stick since I was 15 and have had many cars and realize sticks will buck when you try to alternate between accelerating and decelerating in 1st gear, but this car does it in any gear. The thing that really bugs me is the fact I can't make the problem go away by engaging the clutch in a different manner. And than the really irksome part is the fact the clutch doesn't always act up like this.

    Does this sound like a slipping clutch to you, or is it possible air is in the hydraulic lines or maybe the clutch plate is simply weak? Any ideas would be helpful although I may just try to get out of the car completely and save myself the stress. Thanks for any insight.
  • davidd5davidd5 Posts: 79
    Ok ingtonge18,thats a better descripion. You are right,that is NOT normal. As for being a clutch problem, it doesn't seem like that would be it. I'm thinking maybe a poor connection it the wireing harness. How often does it do it? Lets say if someone from the service dept. took it home one night,would it do it. Another thing to check into, is if suzuki has what is called a "co-pilot" {Thats what Chyrsler calls theres} How does it work? You have it plugged into the diag connector. You then drive as you would normally drive. When the car acts up,everything is than recorded as to what switch was doing what,what sensor was reading what. We use it for cars that act up very intermitantly. You do have me thinking that maybe mine acted up like yours once. A couple of weeks ago, I was driveing down the highway. Just started going up a hill,and the cruise control kicked out. I thought for a second the engine died. Scared the hell out of me. But then I thought I must of hit the switch with my knee. I was sure I didn't but what else could it be? But now with what you are talking about,I wonder? Has never done it since.
  • davidd5davidd5 Posts: 79
    Just wondering if anybody has noticed the paint on the frt bumper chipping from rocks? Mine only has 7200km on it. Was able to give a good wash today at home for the first time, and I noticed all these very tiny chips in the paint. Was not the first time washed. Have to use the coin washes in the winter. Generally there you don't have time to really take a good look.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    My bumper has a few small nicks but so far it is doing alright. The hood however has a big nick right at the front edge above the grille. It was large enough to go all the way down to the bare metal and start rusting.

    As for how often my bucking/surging/jerking problem occurs, it is very intermittent. It seems to do it about once a week and only in the morning on the way to work. So it is impossible for me to replicate it for the dealer. I wouldn't be so disappointed if I could just get the problem fixed and move on!
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    This mean, you can now access this discussion from either the Maintenance & Repair or Hatchbacks Message board. Hope this is helpful. ;-)

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • davidd5davidd5 Posts: 79
    This is more for the owners in Canada. Have any of you had the "check eng" light come on after the car has sat for about 2 hours in -25. I had it happen twice this winter. Suzuki says there is a temp sensor in the fuel tank that is confusing the temp sensor on the engine. Being the fuel is ice cold and the eng is still warm.They clear the code but I dont like having to go back for that.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    If this only happens when the temp lowers to -25, the code may clear itself after a few drive cycles, that is, once the temperature warms up. You can also reset the check eng light yourself by disconnecting your negative battery cable and reconnecting it after 30 secs or so. This should clear any codes the computer has stored. If the problem is still there (temp is still below -25), the light will trigger again after a few drive cycles.

    Just curious, have you asked whether there's an actual fix, so this doesn't keep happening when the temp drops? Of course, if it's not a common problem..., they may not feel it's necessary to fix or upgrade. My 2 cents. Other here may have more to add....

    You may also want to solicit feedback from members in our Check Engine Light discussion. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your situation.

    Revka
    Host/Hatchbacks & Wagons
  • davidd5davidd5 Posts: 79
    Revka, Im a tech at a chrysler store,have been for the last 15 years[Yea I bought a 'zuki. Just love it} I have tried to clear the code that way,but its a "hard" code that must be cleared with the scanner. I think OBD was somthing to do with it. Most of the chrysler codes are set this way. Disconnecting the battery will not clear the code. Suzuki is aware of it, because when I called to make an appointment of the "chek eng" light,they knew right away on the phone what the problem was. Told just to stop by anytime and they will clear it. Just wondering how many others this has happened to.
  • redsirredsir Posts: 34
    Just got our 2003 AWD Fastback(white),and we are very satisfied. Chose it over Matrix and Elantra GT.

    My concern is a drive line vibration that comes and goes. It is more pronounced when cold. The vibration can be felt through the seat mostly.

    Any thoughts or insights would be helpful.

    Also, our CD player does not have the six disc in dash changer. Is this a U.S. spec feature only?
  • davidd5davidd5 Posts: 79
    Read on another web site about a vibration with an awd. Turned out to be the rear drive shaft. Take the dealer a long time to find, The guy,I believe,had to get suzuki involved. All worked out in the end. This could be your problem too. The 6 in dash cd player in a US spec only.
  • I just took my new Aerio in for its first oil change at 3,000 miles and when the mechanic (ASE Certified Goodyear Tire and Auto) tried to remove the oil filter he broke a tool, and when he finally got the filter out, the threaded stub came out of the engine block with. After calling the Suzuki Service Department and discussing it, the Goodyear mechanic also removed the stub (stud?) from the filter and found the damage from the filter being forced on. I was present and involved for everything that transpired. This damage was done at the factory in Japan I assume since I bought the car with under 100 miles on it.

    Has anyone ever heard of a Suzuki with this problem? The mechanic and the Suzuki service department both admitted this happens very infrequently.
  • davidd5davidd5 Posts: 79
    I've worked at the dealer level service for 20 years,and that would be the first time I have heard of that. The factories do always put the filter on very tight,but I have never had a problem getting them off.
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