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Suzuki Aerio Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mesxmesx Posts: 7
    I had the same issue with one of my door lock mechanism and it was replaced under warranty..... only took 4 months to get the part........... Also had 6 tires go bald in 15,000 miles, even after 3 alignments at two different facilities..... maybe I should have rotated them every week?
    Gave up on the piece of junk as nobody was able to fix the tire problem....... The 1986 Toyota Corolla I bought to replace it, has already given me more trouble free miles than that 2005 AWD Aerio every did
  • my first 03 has something done to it that not only makes it handle better, but keeps the tires in line, and makes them last much longer... a very wize old school mechanic (70+yrs old) took one look at the [non-permissible content removed] end and tire wear , made the following observations:
    no adjustment in the control arms in the rear, the camber is not adjustable and the tires will wear out excessively..

    the fix? got the car in the air, removed the control arm rods
    CUT THEM, made them adjustment links (looks somewhat like a turnbuckle) and replaced the rods.. ok 20K miles later and the tires still have the "nubbies" on them and should last 50K miles maybe more! my other 03 had the same problem, and the his first fix was to heat the rods, and bend them up at the center about 1 inch while on the alignment rack. this car has 75k miles and second set of tires (first set lasted 15k miles)
    and now thes have 50k and are still in great shape...
    my question to suzuki, if you guys are so friggin smart, why cant you build parts tha are adjustable and right the first time??? you can learn a lot from an older person
  • Maybe you all can help me out a little...

    I have an '03 Aerio sedan and up until recently, the car has been FANTASTIC. Now...not so much.

    Basically, anytime I turn my headlights on, the indicator lights inside the car either turn off or flash, and the gas pedal stops responding. Then I turn the lights off, and everything is fine, unless of course I try to drive in the dark, haha. As long as the lights are off, the car runs great and I have no problems.

    I was hoping someone would have an idea as to what's wrong, and could maybe give me an estimate on cost to fix it. I am a sophomore in college, and BEYOND poor at this point...definitely can't afford for the car to break on me.

    Has anyone ever heard of problems like this?
  • What's weirder is that you have owned your Aerio for so long, and do not understand the way your headlights work. They are always on when the handbrake is off. It sounds as if the voltage regulator in your alternator is not providing sufficient voltage to drive the system. This normally results in the battery not being charged sufficiently to start the car, but the Aerio is very easy to start, so I suppose it is possible that your car could continue to work. On the other hand, there could be a short in one of the various running lights that only come on when the headlight switch is turned on.
  • Ha, sorry, I understand how they work...I realize that the headlights stay on all the time, but the backlights, and the indication lights inside the car do not. When I turn those on, that's when I lose the functionality of the car. When it first started acting like this, I took it to someone who wanted to replace my entire transmission since it wasn't being engaged properly. That seemed a little outrageous. That's why I'm asking.
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    I agree with rarchimedes ......sounds like an electrical/charging system problem.
    May be that the battery needs replaced, or else the alternator.
    Have the charging system checked.
    Many auto parts stores will do this for free....especially the larger ones like Advance.
  • The cheapest things to check would be the various running lights that turn on when the lights are turned on. Just remove them. The system should warn you, but if your big problem goes away, you will know that is the problem. Also, examine the wires in the area around those lights. They may be pinched, grounded, or crossed. If the problem is with the indicator lights in the cab, you have a more difficult and expensive problem that you are unlikely to be able to deal with yourself.
  • brenbren Posts: 24
    All of a sudden my wagon's rear hatch won't open. The part on the rear that you grip and squeeze together to open the hatch seems to be 'seized' -- it's squeezed together and won't release... but the hatch won't open. I can just imagine... 2 hours of labor at $100 per hour + $175 worth of parts to fix it. :mad:

    Also, it's pretty common belief/knowledge that the Yokohama Geolandars that came standard on our Aerios are not so great. I had to replace them at 26,000 miles. However, I guess the Geolandars actually have NO treadlife warranty. Ironically, I replaced mine with 80,000 mile warranty Yokohama Avid Touring tires. After 26,000 they are almost worn out, too! That's only 1/3 of the supposed treadlife! I'm getting new tires tomorrow, and I hope that Yokohama will honor the tire warranty so that I can get a new set of tires at a major discount.

    One other issue I've had is when my air conditioning is in use and I turn right, I hear squealing that sounds like a belt. I actually had a Suzuki dealer look into it back when my car was under still under warranty, but of course they didn't hear it despite the fact that it happens EVERY SINGLE TIME. :P
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    I would guess that parts/labor on that hatch would run about 200-250. I had a similiar problem on my Toyota.

    Can't help you on the tire issue...only have 4600 miles on mine, but I did notice a hard thumping when starting out in the cold until they warm up...very strange to me.

    The noise is most likely P/S belt needs adjusted/replaced...you can try spraying some belt lube on it.

    YES, I am finding out the hard way that the infamous Suzuki
    warranty is not worth crap.
  • Suzuki's warranty is not the problem. It's the car dealers themselves. They will find every excuse not to honor the warranty.
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    Because warranty work pays less that their regular hourly rate.
  • brenbren Posts: 24
    Thankfully my rear hatch which stopped opening needed only to be lubricated. I was quite relieved to avoid a several hundred dollar repair bill. :)
  • I have a 2002 Aerio and there is a crack in my windshield but it was not caused by any chips or rocks. When you touch the crack, the glass is regular. It feels smooth when I touch it from the inside and outside of the windshield. I bought an extended warranty for the vehicle until 100,000 miles if any of you are wondering. Do you think the windshield can be replaced under warranty?
  • Has anybody had problems with keyless entry?
    I replaced the batteries in both remotes and even reprogrammed
    the transmitters as outlined in the owners manual but the
    keys still wont open the door. can anybody help me with this?
    thanks
  • I had a problem in the early years with my car with the keyless entry. I went to the dealer and they replaced the entire keyless entry system covered under the manufacturer's warranty.
  • meulemanmeuleman Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 aerio sx wagon i have had the same problems with back tires going bald. I am on my third pair. I was blamed and told my customer service from suzuki how this was my fault and they couldnt help me. The dealer told me the alignment was fine. I had an independent alignment done at my expense turns out the car was way out of alignment on the rear of the car. The cure is for the alignment to be done according to suzuki specs and also they have to change the magna cam caser kit 12mm to alow the aignment place to cure the problem properly. I would tell you suzuki will tell you that the people doing the alignment arent using the right specs well they are trust me this is the cure. You will notice a big difference the reason why the tires go bald on back is because the car is dog tracking. For the folks with back and front tire problems, the front tire problems are caused by the rear of the car out of alignment causing a thrust on the front of the vehicle and the front wheels. If you have any more questions please contact me m_meulemans@yahoo.com
  • my 03 sx with 77k miles suddenly spun rod bearings (one so bad it was dust in the pan) previously (day before) i went to the dealer complaining of a tic which quickly turned to knock/squeel.. a month ago I had gone to the same dealer (with a tic tic in the engine) AND with the 2nd gear syncro not engaging, and front wheel bearings growling (both) so far the tally is as follows: two front rotors, pads (2X), transmission, wheel bearings, and now engine.. nice going SUZUKI! good thing you have a warranty!
    even if you dont honor it! all this in 10k miles of ownership!! wow what a deal! im lucky if i can unload this heap for 1/3 what I have in it.. comments? email me directly please,, lostinspce2@yahoo
  • Since you have owned it for only 10k of the 77k that it has traveled, just how do you know that the problems are Suzuki's. it sounds as though the vehicle has been consistently over-revved, driven very, very fast, and very, very hard. If you are so stupid as to buy a vehicle with 67k on it without having it checked out, you get what you pay for.
  • well suzuki of NA called me today and told me that the engine
    was defective a "maufacturing defect" and said a new shortblock was on the way and would be fixed free.. as for the car being drivin hard or abused, not likely, first its a black sx with absolutely no dents dings scrapes marks, or even swirls in the paint, a nearly perfect car inside and out cosmetically, and the prvious owner had a complete :) record of all the service work and warranty work (he was 60 yrs old also) not likely the car was ever abused , and as for me a 50 yr old with a family I have better things to do than wreck something I am paying for.. also i bought the car from a suzuki dealer ..
  • carthellcarthell Posts: 126
    Has anyone been able to go to either a big box or specialty auto retailer to pick up (not special order) an air filer for a 2003 Aerio's engine intake? Can't seem to find any offline; my favorite non-dealer car maintenance place has never caried the item.

    The choices online seem to be limited to K & N, if a choice exists at all. It appears that absolutely none of the major auto part makers that I've heard of (including AC/Delco) carry what I need.

    -d
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    http://www.champlabs.com/catalog/index.html

    Champion Labs has the filter.
    I do not know if you can buy it direct,but surely they can tell you which of their dealers has it.
  • Dealer: Yes, and me sainted grandmother only drove it to church on Sundays. Now, she did say that her nephew borrowed it to drive to work on week days, but he would never abuse the car. He polished it and cleaned it out twice a week.

    Customer: Oh, so that's why it looks so good, but is slightly sagging on the springs and shocks.

    You get the idea. I assume you did a check on the actual car history. Much of what you say indicates to me that the car was possibly partially submerged at some point. That might explain the like-new interior. Wheel bearings and disks just do not go out like that without some contributing factor. Now, the synchro problem is well documented, and should be repaired on every 2003 Aerio. Actually, the problem is not with the synchros, but with the 5th gear train. I had the synchros replaced, with zero effect on the problem. The second time, the entire 5th gear assembly was replaced, along with most of the synchros, and the problem has not recurred. The same was done on my daughter's 2003 Aerio Sedan. Suzuki has spent almost zero dollars since 2003 to revamp it's line, doing most of it's work in integrating the Korean manufacturer that it bought. Suzuki's reputation for safety, well earned in the 2000-2003 time frame is now entirely outdated. No Suzuki even scores in the first group on any safety test, and most are well below average.

    If I were going to do anything, it would to check on my dealer and the history of the car on something like CarFax. The alignment and transmission problems are well documented and have known solutions, even if Suzuki normally ducks on the alignment issues, but most of the rest of the problems, to include things like the automatic doorlocks, appear to be more industry-wide type things. That doesn't mean that Suzuki should not repair them, but then so should the rest of the industry, and they resist also.

    I would not buy another Suzuki at this point, because they just are not keeping up with the industry, especially on safety, and not very much on gas mileage. There are many better bargains out there for the dollar at this moment in time. In 2003 and 2004, the Suzuki Aerio and SX, many times selling for around $12k dollars was about the best bang for the buck on the market. Time and tide wait for no manufacturer. Maybe they will leapfrog on out there, but at the current moment, all I see them doing is filling up the really cheap...not inexpensive...slot in the market.
  • shftngrsshftngrs Posts: 1
    I own a 2003 Aerio SX and I'll list the problems I've had with this car as confirmation of what others have detailed here.

    Day one of ownership the dealer was so desperate for a sale that the salesman allowed me to take the car without signing the final contracts (financing was finalized but not signed) and we agreed I would return the next day to sign them. That night, it rained and somehow water leaked in from the front passenger side windshield. Initially the dealer wanted to try to repair the problem, but when reminded that the deal wasn't actually final, they gave me another SX that has had no leaks.

    The same tire issues others here have noted have plagued me as well. My tire specialist did say that the tires that Suzuki includes on the car are unsuitable. Replacing the tires did wonders for the AWD, but since the replacement I've heard an odd popping noise when I make tight turns (yes it has been an issue for years).

    My brakes grind and are horribly sluggish. The pads and rotators have been changed more times than I can remember to try and rectify this, but since reading a previous post I'll now try non-Suzuki parts.

    My electrical problems include replacing wires when the electrical system died and the clock light continually shorts in and out. Also, the cd player doesn't work when the car gets cold (bizarre but true).

    And, finally, at 73k the engine needs to be replaced (I've had a car that had no problems until well over 100k so this was a shock to me). The dealer/service department has been great, but I did call Suzuki's customer service department to complain about the amount of time they have taken to approve the repair and send parts. They told me two different things about the approval process (in one version the dealer requires it and in another the district office does) so I definitely now feel like they are lying, to those of us who've purchased the 2003 Aerio SX, about the problems we've all had.

    You do get what you pay for so this will certainly be the last Suzuki I own.
  • mmhlongmmhlong Posts: 1
    i have over 175000 miles on my '03 aerio. I'm having quite a few issues with it right now. For starters the tail light will not come on. There was a hole in it from where my mom backed into a pole. I replaced the entire thing. new bulbs and everything purchased from the dealer. The brake light which wasn't working is now working and the tail light which was now isn't. I also replaced the fuse for the tail light still not working.
    The other issue I have is no a/c. When i turn it on it blows but not cold and makes a kind of clicking sound.
    The clock light does not come on any more and the radio will come on and then it pops off.
    Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know how to fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. :lemon:
  • carthellcarthell Posts: 126
    Tail light: My service manual suggests that the problem could be caused by a blown bulb or a wiring/grounding fault. Since you already checked the bulb (please double-check!), then the problem is...

    A/C: The service manual lists 14 possible causes for your situation. Typing all the info would be kinda tedious, so I'll list the items that don't require tearing down components in the engine bay or passenger compartment:

    -Refrigerant under- or overcharged.
    -Compressor drive belt loose or broken.

    Otherwise if you have a huge chunk of free time, some tools (some simple, some specialized), good mechanically-inclined friends, some tunes, and an uncluttered area where you can work (or just a good A/C shop), it is possible to attack the problem.

    Other components that might be involved in the trouble: the HVAC temp. control cable, heating element, condenser, evaporator, expansion valve (connected to the evaporator, I believe), the compressor and/or clutch, any of the sensors in between, and/or (throat-clenching horror!) a leak somewhere in the system.

    Clock light, radio: check fuse 15 first. If it is ok:

    -If you can see the info in the LCD display, the lights are simply burned out. Find several time/temp units in a junk yard, install each one until you find a working unit.

    -Same for the radio (other places to find a cheap/free basic radio are flea markets, yard sales, and vehicle upgrade shops). If no radio works, either all of the radios you got were bad, or the wiring to the radio is bad.

    Good luck!

    -d
  • My aerio won't turn on. I took it to a local mechanic who replaced the fuel pump and then told me the computer was bad so they replaced that. It worked for one day when the exact same thing has happened again.
    Has anyone experienced this or have an idea of what the cause may be I would greatly appreciate your help.
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    I would take it right back to the shop that suppossedly fixed it. I am sure they gave you a big bill.
    In the interim check the fuel pump fuse;and the wires going to the pump as one may be shorting out to ground along the frame.
  • dkarasindkarasin Posts: 10
    If you are still having trouble try Rock Auto online. It was the only place I found that I could get one other than at the dealer. Be careful, I got the wrong one for mine and it took a little while to work out. Measure your filter and make sure the one listed is the right size. I got the Beck Arnley 042-1665 which was about 3" to short. If this is the one you need you can have it for the cost of shipping.

    I have also had a real problem getting parts for my 2003 Aerio SX. I have had to over pay at the dealer several times.
  • dkarasindkarasin Posts: 10
    I bought my Aerio SX (AWD w/ Automatic) new when the 2004s came out. I admit I loved it for a while. I had several trips to the dealer for little nuisances exhaust rattles and CD player not giving my CDs back. The first replacement CD player skipped so much I had them replace that one. After they did that work the clock light would go out and on when it wanted to. I also had the exhaust rattles fixed again on all of these trips.

    With less than 20K miles the radiator sprung a big leak. it left us stranded. Inconvenient but the 7 year / 100k mile warranty will cover it it. Wrong! I had it towed to my local earlier. They refused to cover it and said that it must have been a rock or something. They wanted $650 to fix it. I said that was a lot for a radiator and they told me the part alone was $500 and the dealer was the only place to get one. Fortunately, they were wrong and I found it online for under $200 sipped next day. I replaced it in their parking lot.

    When 36k miles were up I took it in for exhaust rattles, a/c did not seem cold and a few body clips. They said that they fixed the rattles and all of the little stuff, nothing wrong with the A/C. The exhaust still rattled and some of the clips were still gone. Back again they said it was fixed. Still not fixed. I finally gave up.

    A few months latter I started having a problem with the heating system. It would blow hot air on the driver's side and cold air on the passenger side. The colder it was outside the colder it would be on the passenger side. The hot side could not keep up. The dealer wanted $400 to fix it. They claimed it was a mouse nest. I did not think that was the cause but I thought they would fix the problem while they were working on it. The had my car for 10 working days (no loaner for me)and did not fix the problem. They needed it back when a few parts came in. When I got it back It still had the same problem and now I could not select a temperature or shift from defroster to heat. Eventually the parts came in. I took the car back and they charged me for the parts and labor. Of course they did not tell me that it still did not work. On a cold day the right side would blow 30°F colder than the left. Several mot trips and back and forth they never got it fixed and I never got my money back. Summer came and I let it go.

    I should have sold the car but I did not.

    The car started revving fast at idle. Since I did not have confidence in the local dealer I took it to the next closed dealer on 80 miles. I new that it was some thing to do with the IAC but since it was still under the 7 year / 100k mile warranty let them take care of it. turned out not to be covered because the IAC was fine but the ground wire was burnt. They took pity on me and only charged $100 to splice in a little piece of wire. I still can't figure out what a ground could short to to cause the problem. It does not run with any other wires.

    One night driving home the car started to make a noise coming from the final drive on the front (seemed to be at the wheel speed). I cold not see anything wrong I drove it hoping the car would die so I would know what needed to be fixed. After a few days (probably related) I would start to get the check engine light and the transmission would go int a limp home mode. 2500 RPM in second gear. A key restart would usually fix it for a while. The code said that it was a transmission feed back sensor error. After a test drive I the dealer said they would replace the transmission and it would take care of the noise and the error code. 3 weeks latter when the part came in i took it back and asked them to look at the heat while they had it for the transmission. When I got the car back the noise was still there, the error code still comes up periodically, an the heat still does not work. That was $300.

    I called the Suzuki NA line for help again. I did not want to bring that up before because this is long enough as is. The were insulting and no help yet again. The regional representative is the all mighty power and no one else at Suzuki can help.

    An A/C line in the engine compartment blew and now I don't have any heat / cooling / transmission part of the time.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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