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Suzuki Aerio Maintenance and Repair



  • lynnster2,

    So, it's a rant if it disagrees with you. I'm not sure where you have been hiding all your life, but I haven't yet met a dealer that volunteered to fix anything that wasn't on a mandatory recall. There need to be stronger lemon laws and independent arbitration panels, but the dealers have a couple of dozen lobbyists at the state level and many more at the federal level, so I don't expect to see legislation tomorrow, if ever. In the mean time, if you are persistent and keep good records, you can usually get things fixed, aggravating though it may be.

    Now, as to your lovely contentions that I work for Suzuki. Drop dead. I'm a computer consultant who has been in the field for 42 years, but I do know how to take care of my cars. For seven years of my life, I lived at over 9,000 ft. west of Denver, CO, so I know a little bit about bad weather and 4WD and AWD vehicles. I also was a member of the volunteer fire department, and you'd be amazed at how many idiots there were who thought that having power to 4 wheels entitled them to drive faster. Two and four wheel drives stop at the same speed. The 2003 Aerio SX that I have is visually almost indistinguishable from the AWD model, though there is a subtle difference in wheel base. Otherwise, they are almost identical. I can check the tires on one by just stooping down and using a penny, or as logmar suggests, get a dealer or tire place to check it for free, just by specifically asking. Your problem is that you are one of those lazy idiots who expects the car to take care of itself. And, you apparently raised a daughter who has the same attitude...surprise, or do I have the wrong complainer here.

    Also, this area of the forum is for anyone who has Aerio wagons. The minority of those are AWD, or were until recently, when they started offering only AWD models, at least in the Aerio. Unless you haven't noticed, most people who buy AWD or 4WD vehicles don't buy them for snow or ice or mud or whatever, they buy them because they want them, and they put a little more power to the ground. Of course they suck up a little more power, cause more wear and tear, use more gas, and generally are useless except in rather extreme conditions, but people still buy them. The San Antonio dealers have had plenty of the AWD models, so I can't imagine what you are talking about on your Florida dealers.

    And lastly, unless you are a lawyer with expertise in the particular area, you should leave it up to the lawyers to advertise their class action suits, if any. If there is actually such a suit in motion, there is no problem in advertising it, but acting as free advertising for what almost has to be an ambulance chaser doesn't make you look like anything other than the joke that you have already shown yourself to be. It is clear that you have a complaint, but it is also clear that you have been so negligent that no court in the land is likely to help you recover. You might want to follow your own advice about "zipping" it.
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    Good post !
  • Thanks for the information. Okay, I'm kind of shocked at this, but I ended up trying what this mechanic had recommended trying ( without any guarantees of it working, but what did I have to lose? ): In a full tank of gas, add 1 QUART of Denatured Alcohol, drive the tank away until you finish it, see what happens. At the end of the tank, the light was still on, BUT about a third a way into the next tank, "poof" the light has gone out! If it comes back on, I will try the unplugging the battery cable thing. At this point, I don't know WHAT to think. Usually I fill up at the 76 station, or Chevron - I have a gas card and this helps track fuel cost, but these past two tanks I have gotten gas at the local Valero ( Exxon in other words ). I consider it the "cheapy" gas station. I'm hypothesizing the gas at 76 is too "rich' and the Aerio too sensitive, especially with all this cold weather we have been having. If the Catalytic Converter was supposed to last the life of the car and previous to this I ran a Nissan Sentra S-E-R 250,000 miles on ONE Catalytic Converter, I don't think I could be THAT abusive. I'm convering a LOT of highway miles. Anyhow, thanks again! Will keep you posted. :blush:
  • pychogirlfrien,

    Alcohol is usually used to pull water out of the tank, but it also raises the burn temperature, possibly pulling contaminants out of the converter or burning off excess hydrocarbons plugging the matrix, but I am unsure of that. In any case, when you pull the battery cable on most modern cars to include the Suzuki, it may or may not clear the codes in the engine computer, but it usually triggers a separate code caused by that removal. It also causes most cars to go back to a default tuning, which may be a bit sluggish for a certain number of miles. The engine light can stay on for a tank or two of gas, depending on circumstances. So, the old, "if the light comes back immediately, it is a hard fault" ain't necessarily so. Now, if you have a reader, that's another thing entirely. There used to be a simple trick to cause the lights to flash out a 2 or 3 digit code, but that doesn't seem to work any more.

    Also, since you are covering lots of highway miles, you are putting very little load on your converter, because it is damaged most at start up and under acceleration, when the exhaust is likely to be fuel rich. The EPA only requires that converters last 100,000 miles if I remember correctly, so they are not guaranteed for the life of the car. If you keep the engine running reasonable cleanly and do not consistently run it for under 5 miles on cold mornings, the converter should last the life of the car.
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    The alcohol simply cleaned up the fuel system and the converter.
    It made for higher operating temps as the previous post says which in turn rid the converter of deposits.
    More than likely it was the "cheapie" gas that made the problem arise on an already older converter.
    I drive 175,000 miles a year and I only run Chevron in my Suzuki, and either BP or Shell in my Chevy. I had two Toyotas I ran for 400,000 miles almost exclusively on BP fuel.
    Keep in mind that now most of the fuel contains10 % ethenol, I consider this a bad thing. I add a fuel cleaner once a month.
    Good luck to you and keep us posted.
  • Just got a 2003 aerio w/ 56K miles, but no owner's manual...would someone help, please: need to know the grade/type/specs of the oil recommended for this engine (2.0).
    Had the car 3-4 days now, not many issues to report except that the owner before me put 2005/60/15 tires on it (really louse and noisy ones at that) and they drive me crazy, will be changing them ASAP
  • Should have proofed the last post: forgot to ask about the tranny (5-sp) oil also
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    My 06 Aerio uses either 5-30 or 10-30. (either is fine according to owners manual)
    SM grade oil.

    I have an AWD so I am not sure on the transmission, but the Suzuki website says
    for an 08 with a 2.0 engine to use SAE 75W90 for a manual transaxel.

    Here is the # for Suzuki 1-800-934-0934 (Customer assistance center)

    Hope this helps.
  • Thank you for the info, will get this done ASAP
  • We encourage debate, disagreement, etc but remember to avoid name calling, derogatory comments and the such. Those posts will be deleted.

  • As has been noted on here before, if you don't have a good local tire dealer, you can get good tires from, dirt cheap. I bought a set of the following tires for $188.00 plus $41.26 for shipping all four from Louisiana to Texas.

    215/50HR-15 Kumho ECSTA 711

    They have warehouses around the country and I think in Hawaii and Alaska that limits the shipping distance and therefore the cost. In any case, that was $47.00 per tire plus $10.31.5 per tire shipping and $14.00 per tire mount and balance at my local tire store, so for a little over $71.00 per tire, I had a really good set of tires that no local store would sell to me for less than $90.00 per tire plus mount and balance, so I saved $33.00+ per tire and I did not have to pay sales tax. That size is less than 0.08% different in diameter from the 195x55x15 tires that are standard on the car, and they are smaller, correcting the very slight upward error of the Suzuki digital speedometer. The 205x60x15's are 5.2% larger than the OEM tires, meaning that they register 3 mph low at 60 mph, and that could end up costing you a ticket. The 215x50x15's are the only size that is really close in 15's, though you can use 185x60's and still be less than 1% off. If you don't mind approximations, you can go to an online tire calculator like this one:

    You still have to calculate the percentage difference, but you can get what you need. The 215x50's rub very slightly in extreme bumps, but I haven't had any problems except when I got into some sticky mud that pushed off my decorative moldings, but that might have happened anyway with the mud that I was into. The problem with the 185x60's, if you can get them, should be checked for load capability and you will get some distinct tail end float in hard cornering. That's why I went to the wider tires in the first place...the regular floated out too much for my taste. Also, the Kumho's I mentioned are uni-directionals with a V sipe, which makes them handle really well on wet pavement, which standard all-weathers do not. The standard tires on the Suzuki might as well be water skis in the rain.

    Good luck
  • i have a 04 suzuki aerio.the clutch is slipping,is there anything i can do to adjust this
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    I may not be correct,however, I believe that clutch to be fluid controlled, hence there is no adjustment.
    Check the fluid level.
  • brianm6brianm6 Posts: 5
    Thanks to logmar for the info on the oil, got that done

    I checked the spark plugs and found them loose, did not have to use a handle on the socket/extension to take them off!! I had no info on the torque for the plugs, I set them at 20 foot/pounds, should do the trick...may not be a bad idea to check your spark plugs if you are experiencing poor gas mileage and or loss of power.

    If any one knows the torque for the plugs, would not mind knowing how far off I'am at 20 foot/pounds....
    I agree with the reply to the clutch problem: you may need a new clutch unless your fluid is low (or has somehow gotten air in the system); then make sure your foot is always on the foot rest, never resting on the clutch unless you are shifting gears (I also believe in leaving the shift lever alone, unless shifting gears also...
  • According to the Suzuki Aerio service Manual, the answer is 18.0 lb-ft, FYI.

    V :D
  • brianm6brianm6 Posts: 5
    Many thanks on the plug torque, will correct soon. I was surprise to find them so loose, and 2 of them had marks of leaking compression (car has now ~56K miles)
  • rbarnettrbarnett Posts: 3
    you are correct about the clutch,it is fluid driven,checked that.i have to bite the bullet and install a for the reply.ricky b.
  • bachmanbachman Posts: 31
    Mine is an 03 but I had a mechanically gifted friend help me once by adjusting the pedal position ?? as it was starting to slip before it want bad. This may not be what you are asking but I did want to add that online I found clutch kits for around $200 when I need to start shopping. Someone in town had one laying around and let it go for around $100. MY clutch went early likely due to my kids letting their frinds learn a manual trans on my car .... just a guess but it happened aroud 55,000 miles or so... good luck !
  • It's a hydraulic clutch, and I don't know why that makes it any less adjustable than any other clutch. Granted most clutches don't have a huge range of adjustment, but my mechanic said that he could adjust it somewhat. There are wet clutches and dry clutches, but that is a whole different subject.
  • dkarasindkarasin Posts: 10
    I have a 2003 Aerio SX AWD with the 4 speed Automatic transmission. I have had two problems that seem to occur more when the car is cold. The car will not shift into 4th gear until the engine cool light goes out. The dealer told me this was normal but I have had this car since '04 and I don't remember it doing this until about a year ago. Also the car will not always shift into the low gears from a stop. I can manually do it this some times causes a code P0717. The dealer checked the wiring and then decided that the Transmission Control Module was bad and not covered under the 7yr/100,000 mile power train warranty. The cost is $770 plus programming and installation.

    There is now way I can spend nearly $1000 to fix this. Has anyone used one from a junk yard? What years and models would work?
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