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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    Mazda will only cover non-mechanical and non-electrical problems for the first year or 12K miles, which ever occurs first. Things not covered after the 1st year or 12K miles are brakes, belts, hoses, rotors, alignments...things of that nature. The dealer could have eaten the $69, that not a really labor intensive job. But, I know that could not be submitted to Mazda as a warranty issue. They would have rejected it.
    I know in my area, there are not many Mazda dealers around, so, driving to another Mazda dealer would be a pain.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    The dealer could have eaten the $69 ...
    Exactly my point. Consider: this car was bought last December, it now has about 12K miles (remarkably low mileage considering a 15K annual average), the client complains about an alignment problem. In response the dealer does what? Nothing. As soon as the car goes off warranty where do you think the servicing will be done? What kind of loyalty can the dealer or Mazda expect with this type of treatment? Fortunately not all dealers are as chintzy as this one.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    My Mazda dealer would have eaten the $69....they want to earn loyal service customers.
  • I don't think they care for loyal customers, they will be waiting to rip you off. When I was there for the 12K oil change, the rep. was showing me a list of things I need to do that would cost me close to $65. I promptly said "No". The dealer I visit is much better than others in my area.
  • I just bought a 2005 Mazda 6 three weeks before Hurricane
    Katrina in New Orleans. I had done A LOT of research on pricing before I bought the car. The one mistake I made was not researching on possible problems. I was hesitant on buying another Mazda because I had a Mazda 626 a few years ago and had quite a few problems with it but I really liked the new design and pricing, etc. on the Mazda 6 so I bought the car. Right after I got the car I started noticing a humming noise in what I thought was the tires. Then the car starting pulling to the right a lot. Then the real kicker, it started shifting really hard when the car would be idle for a few hours. The worst was on a coldstart and it would shift hard when I would go through the first shift to the point of almost whiplash when I was in bumper to bumper traffic. Finally a week ago, I started looking online and found this website and I started to get worried. I took the car in and received a call from the Tech 3 days later. He was kind of stuttering when he was talking and he said, "I'm sorry to say but you need a new transmission." WHAT! This car only has 4,500 miles on it! So now, amid all the other problems down here, I have to wait at least 3 weeks to get the car back because they have to get a new transmission and the other parts needed to fix my 4 month old car. I'm just hoping that this will do the trick because I really love my car. I've read a lot of the postings and people seem to be having similar problems, I hope this helps. There's also a computer programming recall the tech told me about for those of you who don't know that already. Good Luck to all of you with the same problems. Happy Holidays!
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I have to wait at least 3 weeks to get the car back because they have to get a new transmission and the other parts needed to fix my 4 month old car.

    Is the dealership or MazdaUSA providing you with a replacement during the wait? While you're at it why not ask for a brand new car? It may be wise to keep a written record of all of your dealings with the dealership in case you need to take additional action. I would also consider a) an independent garage to check the car once the "fix" is done b) legal advice regarding compensation for the discomfort and danger that you had experienced.
  • duke15duke15 Posts: 161
    Was that the 6-spd AT transmission? I am thinking about buying an RX-8 and I think they are puting that tranny into the 2006 RX-8, so I am looking to see if it has had any problems. Thanks
  • 05 Mazda6 s with 6speed auto transmission. Brought it back to the dealer 4 times. Each time they say nothing is wrong because the probelm is so random. sometimes i press the gas and the car doesn;t move for a few seconds and then WHAM it slams into gear and I spin my tired. I am going to try another dealer where maybe they will keep the car for a few days to recreate. Not sure what else to do. Can I write to Mazda - if so, who do I write to?
  • Anyone else hear of issues with the fuel pump in the 6? A sporadic whining noise started in my 2005 6i about two weeks ago. I have about 12000 miles on it so far. Finally had time to take it to the dealer (when the noise was present), and the tech immediately identified the issue as a bad fuel pump. He stated this was the 5th time in the past 2 weeks a 6 came in with the same issue. He went on to comment that they had zero failures this summer, and they are thinking the onset of the cold winter weather may have something to do with it.

    A new pump was ordered and they are installing it on Friday.
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    Try another dealer...there is a service bulletin for 'delayed throttle response' (01-022/05 2005) It re-flashes the TCM and PCM and it works. My demo had the same problem and once the tech did the re-flash everything was perfect.
  • The dealership did offer me a rental car during the wait. My warranty covers a rental (it better!!). I have checked several websites regarding the "Louisiana Lemon Law" just so I know where I stand and what information I need to have in case I have to consult an attorney. That is a great idea to take the car to an independent garage. They told me that it wouldn't be a rebuilt trans but I'm not a mechanic, I would never know the difference. At this point, when I pick up the car, I have to make sure that EVERYTHING is itemized properly on the invoice including the dates and services done just in case I have to get an attorney in the future. Most states Lemon Laws require a 30-day out of service policy or repair for the same problem 4 or more times to qualify for Lemon Law. Louisiana on the other hand, states it has to be 90 days out of service!! But I'm just going to watch it and if I see any problem with the trans it's going right back to the dealership. Thanks for your advice.

    For the person asking what type of transmission the car has, it is a four cylinder automatic transmission.
  • missmmissm Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2005 Mazda 6 , it only has 4600 miles on it.. They replaced fuel pump and noise is still there.. How did you make out?
  • Hi,

    Thanks for posting the details of your issue. I too have a Mazda 6 sedan (4 cyclinder) that I purchased in late summer 2005. The car has 3000 miles on it and I am experiencing very similar issues to the ones you described.
    First, airbag warning light is always on so I took my car into the dealer today and they're telling me that they'll have to replace the safety airbag module (some issues with the voltage).
    After reading your posting, I immediately called the dealer again. I too have noticed that the car veers to the right. I told the service guy this when I dropped off my car earlier today. He said it was meant that way so if I doze off, then the car will veer towards the sidewalk and not into oncoming traffic (yeah, like I believed that!). Next, I too notice very abrubt and jolting shifts in my automatic transmission. I notice this in the mornings when the car shifts from 1st to 2nd gear. Finally, I have also noticed a humming noise. I was not the one to pinpoint this issue. When my brother was in the car with me, he told me that the humming was not normal.

    I would like to know more details and information about what happened with your car and your transmission. Also, you mentioned that you visited a website that gave you some more details about the issues. Do you have the link and could you send it to me please?
    Thanks
    Sargon Benjamin
  • My experience with 2005 6i transmission (purchase date 1/05)

    I had a problem with very hard 1-2 shift when cold. Dealer repeatedly said this was normal. They said there was a software change to transmission but it was for '04 models and mine should already have the latest program. During summer months and warm weather all was fine. With onset of cold weather the extreme hard shift returned. This time I forced dealer to drive. Bottm line they said I had indeed had the 'older program' after all and (my understanding) reflashed the transmission to new program. This fixed the problem. I now just wonder if all those hard shifts caused any long term damage or premature wear.

    My suggestion for anyone similar - insist that the dealer verify program version to make sure latest and not just assume based on model year.
  • missm

    They replaced the fuel pump the Friday before Christmas, and so far, no problems. Of course, I've only put about 100 miles on it since then. If the whining noise returns, I'll let you know.
  • jahnu04jahnu04 Posts: 58
    I have got scratches on the right side of my 04 wagon rear bumper and want to know if there is a easy way to remove those. Mazda dealer body shop gave me an estimate of $500. I can spend upto $100, so any input on do-it-yourself will be helpful, otherwise I will leave it as it is.

    The rear bumper (silver color) got rubbed against the left front of a maroon civic, so there's light maroon color in the scratched area too.

    Any advice on how to remove this color and scratches is greatly appreciated.

    GK
  • The biggest major problem with the 6 to date has been the 3.0 engine in my shop. We have replaced 4 (we are not a huge dealer) and tech assist told me that they found out some engines were assembled without lube. Nice. Although ford may have saved mazda from dying, they have done nothing to improve the quality of the mazda cars themselves. The biggest improvement they have given us is the ability to diagnose cars better than before. Fords transmissions continue to litter the shop floor (mostly tributes) and I dont understand why they dont try to fix the issue.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    Hmmm, where is the 3.0L engine assembled?
  • markk1markk1 Posts: 30
    My wife brought her 2003 Mazda 6 in for a service at 45k. We were told it needed a brake job which was no surprise as my wife does a lot of stop & go driving and tends to be hard on brakes. Is what was a surpise was the approximate $800 it cost! This was for new pads and rotors on all 4 wheels. The parts came to over $500 alone. The pads were over $200 and the rotors around $300. The dealer who we also used on a previous car and have been happy with told us on the 6's they typically need to replace the rotors when they do a brake job is this other folks experience? Also he noted that the pads were almost shot. Although its not clear that machining the rotors would have cost much less anyhow. Don't the pads on most cars give off a sound when they get low? We never heard any unusual sounds. Any comments?
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    Brakes are pretty easy and fun. Get the parts online. Even OEM is cheaper over the internet.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Brakes are pretty easy and fun ... for some people. You may want to practice with one before you decide to do all four. And make sure the insurance payments have all been made. :surprise:
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    a surpise was the approximate $800 it cost! This was for new pads and rotors on all 4 wheels. The parts came to over $500 alone. The pads were over $200 and the rotors around $300.

    Interesting and likely the price you'll pay at other Mazda dealers. In September I decided to get some idea of the approximate cost of replacing the pads and rotors for my Mazda Protege5. Since my brakes were approaching 4 years I was investigating ahead of time to prepare myself for the price shock. Here is what I found:

    I called three local Mazda dealerships (we actually have 4 but I decided against torturing the receptionist with my poor French).

    All the dealers came in about the same price at roughly C$725 + tax (nearly U$600 before tax) to replace front and rear brake pads and rotors. The kicker is that some used aftermarket rather than Mazda OEM parts but charged the same total! Of course, they assured me that aftermarket were still good. One of the dealers quoted the aftermarket rotors at C$49 each compared to the OEM at C$90 each.

    To give you an idea of the price breakdown here is the best case using Mazda parts. The total worked out to C$725.

    C$ 95 = 2 Front pads
    C$133 = 2 Front rotors
    C$158 = Labour
    C$390 = Total Parts and Labour for Front Brakes

    C$ 70 = 2 Rear pads
    C$168 = 2 Rear rotors
    C$ 95 = Labour
    C$336 = Total Parts and Labour for Rear Brakes

    Regarding the labour, all quoted 3 hours to do the job; roughly half for the front and half for the back.

    When I asked one of the dealer reps about the need to replace rotors, he strongly recommended it. He claimed that was because the rotors are "porous" and resurfacing them will not be effective in the long term, "I guarantee you that within a couple of months you'll be back to get new rotors".
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    If you have a brand you trust, it may be cheaper to go that route.
  • jhart1jhart1 Posts: 16
    Google LANGKA paint and scratch site. They have a system to fill and remove scratches. If you cannot catch your fingernail on the scratch you may be able to rub it out with FINE rubbing compound. Otherwise you will have to "fill" the scratch with paint. I would ask Langka about using their system on plastic bumper covers though, as the paint seems to flake on them sometimes. I am going to try their system on my old dodge. You do have to buy a small amount of paint but all together it should be less than one bill. Hope this helps!
  • I just got a used MX6s with 33K miles on it. I drove it for 2 weeks now. Today I had a similar problem with it. In my way to work on the freeway (going about 85miles/hr) car's engine stalled and it displayed a beautiful array of lights on my dashboard (TCS, AT, Check engine, the car sliding picture, etc). First I just noticed that I'm pushing the gas pedal, but the car slows down. I looked and noticed the lights, and at the same time the RPM gauge was oscillating from 1 to 2. All I did is put the car in neutral, stopped the engine and restart it. It started right up and I was able to get to work successfully, but the check engine light remained ON. It probably retained the code. I'll have it checked tomorrow (if I can get home with it tonight). I hope there is nothing major. I can't recall doing anything unusual when the lights went on and there are no mods done on the car. everything is original. I'll post an update after I find out what's causing it (if the computer retained a code). Something that nobody does.
  • As I promised, I'm back with my findings about the weird engine shut down. Later in the day, after I got home, the check-engine light went off automatically. Today I went to the mechanic and I explained to him what happened. Since the engine light went off, there were no codes to read, but he told me that the car is equipped with an RPM sensor that does not let the engine go over 6500rpm. It cuts the gas off (idiot proof). When that sensor does not work, or it malfunctions, there is another protection that kicks in and it shuts the engine off. That's what must have happened, because I DID push the pedal... I did not look at the RPM gauge at the time, but I'm pretty sure it was down-shifted. I hope this helps.
  • Hi quick question i have a 04 mazda 6 and while driving the heater is off but i still have this warm air coming out from the vents?? Does this happen to anyone else??? Also is it costing me gas please help.
  • bluem6ibluem6i Posts: 77
    Hi quick question i have a 04 mazda 6 and while driving the heater is off but i still have this warm air coming out from the vents?? Does this happen to anyone else??

    The fresh air setting will always be warmer than the outside air after your car is warmed up. It has to do with the underhood heat and how the air hose is routed. I have 2 Mazda 6's and a Protege and it is the same on all of them.
  • the fresh air mode allows air to enter heat/cool ducts even when the fan is off.
  • I've got an '04 M6, V6, 5-speed manual transmission, approximately 16,000 miles. I'd appreciate hearing from others who have (or have had) clutch problems. I'm occasionally experiencing some clutch chatter when disengaging the clutch in reverse and first gear, but particularly in reverse. The original factory clutch in my previous vehicle lasted more than 200,000 miles, so I'm thinking the issue here is the Mazda clutch rather than my driving & shifting methods (I never ride the clutch pedal or hold the car on an incline using the clutch). Thanks for the input any of you can provide...
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