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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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  • Okay I have an update:

    I heard the clicking/ticking sound again. Usually when the car is at a standstill it doesn't occur, only when it's moving/accelerating. Yesterday, I heard it while it was stopped. So I pulled over and did a little listening under the hood.

    I'm about 80% certain the sound is coming from right around the top/rear of the engine. Looks like it's coming from what I believe is the air injection system. Either that or its coming from the headers of the rear bank of cylinders.

    Anyone have any thoughts on what this intermittent clicking could be? Again, it stops once the engine has been running for about 10 minutes. Thanks.
  • I was hoping someone could provide some insights. I just picked-up my new 2005 Mazda 6S on Sunday. Upon returning home from work on Monday evening, I noticed some fluid in the driveway where I parked the car the car the car the night before. Last night and this night, I put the car in the garage with some paper underneath the far front of the vehicle and noticed a small amount of a watery orange color fluid had leaked onto the paper. It looks like it might be antifreeze. Has anyone seen this and if so, what was the problem, how was it fixed. I'll be speaking with the dealer tomorrow. Obviously, I'm concerned that this would happen with a brand new vehicle. I had been driving a 12 year old car and thought (and still hope) that my vehicle problems were behind me. Thanks.
  • Well, I took my car in to have it looked at and could have slapped myself.

    Basically, the service manager said that I didn't have enough oil in the engine... was about 2-1/2 quarts low. The clicking had to do with not enough oil pressure. Remember, the clicking was only happening when the car was cold and would stop after about 10 mins of running. Oil flows slower when the engine's cold. So it's logical that this was the problem considering that the oil would be flowing more freely once the engine and oil were properly warmed.

    Now, I like to think I take really good care of my cars following the guidelines laid out by the manual and following regular maintenance intervals. It's been almost exactly 5000 miles since my last oil change. My error was assuming that the oil level stayed the same between oil changes.

    Apparantly you still go through about 1 quart every 1500 or so miles according to the service manager. So I should be topping off the oil between changes if I don't get the oil changed every 3000 miles. Funny since Mazda recommends that you can go between 5000 and 7500 between oil changes and doesn't mention refilling the oil in between changes.

    Anyhow, the car sounded great when I picked it up (man was I glad to get the 6 back - not that I hated having the Mazda3 as a loaner, but the 6 is just so much smoother). The test will be tomorrow AM when I start it up after having it sit in the cold overnight.

    Moral of the story: if you don't do an oil change every 3000, make sure the crankcase is full.

    Sorry, one last thing: anyone know if I've done any real damage to the engine by running 2-1/2 quarts low? Ran it that way for about 350 miles or so.
  • "1 quart every 1500 miles"?

    I don't think there's a car built past 1980 that requires 1 quart every 1500 miles. That seems a little much to me.

    I've got 4000 miles on my 6S, and the oil level at my 3000 mile oil change was fine. I'm sure that some engines use up a little oil during break-in, but 2 1/2 quarts? You might want to check for leaks, or maybe consider a new place to get oil changes.

    As for possible damages, the ticking sound causes me to be a little concerned, but friends tell me I'm a little paranoid when it comes to my car!
  • There is NO REASON for your car to be losing any oil between 5000 mile oil changes. I wouldn't be worried about 1/2 quart after 5000 miles, but 2.5 quarts! Something else is wrong with your car. Get it checked under warranty.

    BTW, I will check my oil tonight :-) I too "assume" it is fine and you know what they say about assumptions...
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 886
    Not only would I get it checked out, but I'd take it to a different Mazda dealer and service department. No way any new car uses that much oil, and it can't be normal. My old '93 Accord doesn't do that. Maybe someone at the shop forgot to tighten everything back up after your last oil change . . . ? Something isn't right.
  • I was hoping someone could provide some insights. I just picked-up my new 2005 Mazda 6S on Sunday. Upon returning home from work on Monday evening, I noticed some fluid in the driveway where I parked the car the car the car the night before. Last night and this night, I put the car in the garage with some paper underneath the far front of the vehicle and noticed a small amount of a watery orange color fluid had leaked onto the paper. It looks like it might be antifreeze. Has anyone seen this and if so, what was the problem, how was it fixed. I'll be speaking with the dealer tomorrow. Obviously, I'm concerned that this would happen with a brand new vehicle. I had been driving a 12 year old car and thought (and still hope) that my vehicle problems were behind me. Thanks.
  • LOOSE TRIM - The plastic trim piece around the hand brake on my 6i is loose at the back left hand corner (as viewed sitting in the driver seat). I can easily move this piece up and down from that corner. Could someone check on their 6 and let me know if this is normal? If not, this is probably the cause of terrible rattles in my interior.

    LOOSE BRAKES - My dealer machined my front rotors to take care of my car shaking when braking per a TSB. But my brakes seem "loose" now. Earlier, the car used to start slowing down when I applied slight force on the brake pedal. Now the pedal seems to depress a lot more before the car starts to slow down. Is this normal after machining the rotors? Can anything be done to make the brakes feel "tighter"? Dealer says nothing more can be done.

    Appreciate any help on either problem.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    My hand brake trim is not loose, in fact it's rather tightly secured to the handle and I can't move it around at all. I've only had the car for a week, but I would not consider trim looseness to be normal. If you're still under warranty and don't like the way the trim is holding up, you shouldn't have any qualms about asking the dealer to fix it.

    I've had brake rotors machined several times in the past, usually I remove/reinstall them myself, and I have never experienced a "loose" feel to the brakes afterward. Each time I've had it done, such a small amount of the rotor surface was removed by the brake lathe that I can't imagine it could have possibly made a noticeable difference in how "tight" the brakes felt.
  • Thanks for the reply. Just to clarify, I guess I wasn't referring to the trim piece on the hand brake itself, but the plastic trim that surrounds it (and the cupholder as well). I would appreciate it if you could check that as well.
  • 03mz03mz Posts: 3
    i have an 03 mazda6 5 spd manual V6 that now has approx 22000 miles on it and my clutch has gone out. The car is currently at the shop and all they can tell me right now is that it could be normal wear and tear and that they dont belive that it is covered under my warrenty. Humm Normal wear and tear that at 22k miles that sounds more like a contradiction than anything else. Ive never lost a clutch at 22k miles ave any of you. Also they are trying to tell me that it will cost $1200.00 to get it fixed. Any suggestions
  • I had 100k miles on the original clutch of my 1992 Honda Civic EX before I sold it to buy my 04M6s, which (unfortunately) is an AT. 22k sounds soon for "normal wear and tear". Do you have another dealer nearby?
  • 03mz03mz Posts: 3
    yea there is another dealer in town however this is the dealer i bought it from, and its suppose to be the best one in town.
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 886
    No way can this be normal wear and tear. I have owned 2 previous MT Mazdas, and each clutch lasted over 100,000 miles-- and on one of them I taught my (then) teenage son how to drive a stick shift. Talk about rough wear! If your dealer is unhelpful I would talk to someone at Mazda directly -- a regional rep.
  • 03mz03mz Posts: 3
    they seem to say so and that it could also be from over use of the clutch. Im still unsure of where they are coming up with this crap. Ive owned six other manual tran cars with in the last 9 years and have never lost a clutch and have put more than 22k miles on them all (some up to 50k miles) and never had a problem with any of them. So i am just waiting for them to come back and say that it is overuseage of the clutch when the fact of the matter is that most of those miles are highway miles and stop and go miles, we'll see what they have to say then. Also i have already contacted consumer relations in CA with reguards to this issue
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    That's an unfortunate response from the dealer on your clutch issue. Unless you spend all day every day in stop-and-go traffic and really ride the clutch excessively I don't see how you could be overusing it. If you know what you're doing with a MT and don't abuse the car, this most definitely should not be considered normal wear and tear.

    Clutch problems seem to be like brake problems for dealers. Easy to play the wear and tear card, tell the customer they abused the car too much or that the conditions they're driving in are too harsh and weasel out of doing any warranty work. I always pray that I don't have premature brake or clutch failures in my vehicles after I buy them because I've heard too many stories like this.

    Keep after Mazda, and good luck.
  • Question: Doesn't the dealer get paid by Mazda Corporate if it is a warranty issue? Or do they have to jump through excesive hoops? Or do they make more profit if they convince you to pay for it out of your pocket? I suspect the latter... probably less paperwork for them.
  • qddaveqddave Posts: 164
    I'm not totally sure how Mazda's warranty reimbursement works, but at Chrysler, the dealer performs the work, enters it into Chrysler's warranty system and then gets reimbursed for it. The way DCX checks if it was in fact an honest claim is to get the dealer to send the old part back to Chrysler's warranty center in Pontiac. The engineers there analyze the replaced part or sometimes they'll call in the supplier to see if the dealer diagnosed the issue correctly. Its not a very good system and it costs the suppliers tons of money because in my line of work, the dealers will treat almost every part replacement as a warranty claim and my company gets blamed for it and we are forced to pay Chrysler for issues that aren't even our fault.
  • the problem with the clutch is something to do with mazda. ive talked to alot of people and read alot of boards about problems with the mazda6 clutch. mazda knows theres a problem with the clutch system the have in the 6 and try everything to deny it or put the blame on the customers saying its normal wear and tear. i have problems with it. when its cold out she doesnt like to shift and when i put her into gear she doesnt feel all the way in. a clutch goin at 22k is not normal and its a manufacturing problem. if you need more info check out older messages in these boards.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    I don't know what Mazda does, but I've always heard that dealers are compensated by manufacturers for warranty work. I wouldn't be surprised if work paid for by the customer is more profitable, though.
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