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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Thanks for your response to my post. I have had my car to the dealer three times already, but they have been unable to determine what is wrong. The last time they had it, they went through an entire checklist given to them by an engineer (consisting of checking/plugging/unplugging all kinds of electrical components). Since I've gotten the car back, I've not experienced the flashing/surging problem again (it had happened three times in the past). Now I'm noticing a power loss when the car is decelerating. It's a very noticeable feeling. When the car is slowing down as I'm approaching a light or stop sign, it doesn't decelerate smoothly. I'm going to have the service manager at my dealer drive my car for the weekend because there's no way he's not going to notice this problem. Not sure whether this is as a result of the things that were done last time the car was in. I'll certainly let you know if they find out anything as I've read all the posts regarding these problems and there are definitely other cars out there with the same issues.
  • I have a Mazda 6 GT 2005 and have a noisy (sort of ticking noise) purge control solenoid that is only evident between 1000 and 2000 rpm. The noise begins after the engine has been on for about 10 minutes. This is particularly annoying when travelling slowly in traffic or slowly up inclines. According to the service dept at my Mazda dealer this is a problem with all Mazda 6 2005's. Has anyone else run into this problem.
  • So I made a mistake and left the oil cap off the oil fill on the engine. Drove the car like that until I saw the smoke rising from under the hood a short moment later. So, now I have engine oil on the engine. I cleaned it off best I could with a rag, but see some places where it got on hoses and such. I know oil on hoses is bad, so I'm consdiering an engine steam cleaning. Anyone do this before? Anything to watchout for? Want to make sure I'm not causing any additional harm.
  • I have the Auto climate control in my 2006 Mazda 6S and yesterday was the first time since I bought it that I needed to run the heat. I set the temperature to 80 and the system directed air to the floor panel, but the A/C was still running. Should the A/C run with the heater on? If that's what it is supposed to do then that's fine, but I was wondering if the A/C should really run when it's 32 degrees outside. Anyone? Is this normal?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    The Auto Climate Control (ACC) works well, but you need to understand the system first.

    When you turn on the ACC to "auto", the "A/C" light will turn on. Does this mean that the A/C is actually running? No. It means that the A/C is, for lack of a better term, "armed", meaning the ACC can use it if it's needed.

    If you turn on the "auto" and turn off the A/C, both lights go out. The system is still in full auto mode, it just can't use the A/C.

    The other controls are similar: If you have it on "auto" and manually adjust the fan speed, direction, or A/C button, that specific component remains at your specific setting, but the ACC still controls the other functions automatically. An example: if you hit "auto" then turn the fan speed to the second setting, the fan will stay at the same speed all the time, but the ACC will still change the air direction and A/C use to reach and/or maintain the set temperature.

    One more thing: the "auto" light will only go on when the ACC is in FULL auto mode, and no controls have been manually changed.

    I hope this helps... :)
  • kbf59kbf59 Posts: 4
    :mad: HELP! You seem to understand this bizzare climate control. I bought my 2007 Mazda6 a month ago. It's been in the shop three times for the heat. They insist that it's working correctly but it can't be. I have to keep the temperature at 90 degrees to warm up the car. It never gets hot, just warm. Then if I turn it down to 89 cold air comes out. If I turn off the automatic climate control it's the same thing. It was 32 degrees outside tonight when I got in my car to drive home. I set the heat to 74 it blew out cold air! I couldn't get warm air until I turned it to 88. I am so frustrated. If I want the car to be 74 degrees, shouldn't I be able to turn the ACC to 74 and be done with it??? Also, the seat heaters turn off on their own. I can't get a straight answer out of the dealership if that's the way they are supposed to work.
  • If I want the car to be 74 degrees, shouldn't I be able to turn the ACC to 74 and be done with it???

    Absolutely. If the car continues to blow out cold air after 5-10 minutes of warming up, then it sounds like there is something wrong with the ACC itself, either the heat or the temperature sensors. If your dealer isn't very helpful, I'd try another dealership, and show them the problem yourself.

    Also, the seat heaters turn off on their own.

    That's normal. They are on a timer to turn themselves off.
  • kbf59kbf59 Posts: 4
    OK, just to make sure before I take it to another dealership. You can set your temperature to 74 degrees when it's cold out and it will blow out warm air? And, if you set it to 90 degrees it will make your car very hot and you would have to turn it down? I'm also having trouble with the alignment. I have to keep pushing the steering wheel to the left or it drifts strongly to the right. They put it on the computer and it said it was fine. Then, the service guy took it for a drive with me at my suggestion and he agreed that it was pretty bad. I think I got a lemon. The dealership has had it more than me...
    Thanks so much for your help...
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    If the alignment is okay but the car pulls, it could be a bad tire. Of course the service department should know this...

    The usual procedure is to try switching the front tires (left to right) to see if it then pulls the other way. If not, then they would try the same thing with rear tires.
  • OK, just to make sure before I take it to another dealership. You can set your temperature to 74 degrees when it's cold out and it will blow out warm air? And, if you set it to 90 degrees it will make your car very hot and you would have to turn it down?

    Yes, and yes. :)
  • blv1blv1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Mazda 6 with 10,000 mi. I have been experiencing the exact same ticking and have had it in twice for the problem. First time, they heard nothing. Second time I took them out to demonstrate. They heard it and were happy to report it's just just a noise the car makes. Well it didn't make it when I bought it and now I'm supposed to accept that this refined V6 engine car will always have a tapping noise upon acceleration and on hills? I told them I am going to randomly drive Mazda 6's on there lot to see if any others make this noise. I'm alsofiling a complaint with Mazda.
  • I complain each time I take it in for a sevice (3 times now). I had the service manager drive other Mazda 6 new cars on the lot. He said they all have the same problem but it was only on the Mazda 6 2005. I am surprised your 2006 also has the problem.
  • kbf59kbf59 Posts: 4
    Yep, just bought the same car a month ago but it's a 2007. I've had it in the dealership twice so far for pulling to the right. They hooked it up to the computer and the alignment was fine. Then they rotated the tires but it didn't help. They were going to call Mazda about it again. Just wondering if you ever figured it out?
  • I have a 2006 Mazda6 5-dr S, and it uses 215-45R18 wheel/tires. I also have a set of 225-50R17 winter tires left over from my previous vehicle. I called up TireRack, where I bought them originally, and they told me that I couldn't use them because of the size difference. Just for grins I tried putting one tire on, and it seems to fit ok - aside from needing a hub ring to center it, it looks to be fine.

    Any advice? Should I just get a new set of winter tires with the "correct" size? And what should that size be - 215-50R17, 215-45R17, or even go down as low as 16" ?
  • Any advice? Should I just get a new set of winter tires with the "correct" size? And what should that size be - 215-50R17, 215-45R17, or even go down as low as 16" ?

    If the 225/50s fit the car without any rubbing issues, then by all means, save your $$$ and use them. The difference in odometer and speedometer calibration between the 18" and 17" sizes is 0.9%, well within the recommended 2% limit. Plus, many Mazda6 owners use 225/50-17s, as well as 225/45-17s.

    If you do go with 16", the stock size is 205/60-16 (which is what I use with 16" steelies for my winter tires).

    Tirerack is always VERY conservative with their sizing, but if they work for you, then save the $$$ and put it toward something else.
  • Thanks ... Mazda's website says the tires used on the 6 are P215/50R17 and P215/45R18 (my stock now), so I'm pretty confident I should be able to use the 225 width. Just gotta make sure it spins freely before I drive it.

    I do need to get new lug nuts (longer kind), and new hub rings ... the lugs I can probably get locally, but where can I get the correct size hub rings for my wheel (which is why I called TireRack in the first place).
  • zzzoom6zzzoom6 Posts: 425
    let me first say I'm no tire expert. but do you know what the load rating is on these tires? I've heard that this is a bit of an issue that is pretty important to know for your safety. perhaps you've already checked this, but if not, see if you can find out for sure.
  • I have a new Black Onyx 6. Anyone else have a black one? how does it hold up to the carwash?
  • I have black onyx as well and PLEASE do not take the black beauty through an automatic wash. The dirt and debris from cars don't get completely washed off the automatic brushes and "soft" cloth of an automatic wash. Plus the soaps and waxes aren't the best for your paint. Hand wash is best with a mild auto soap with conditioners in it. Then be sure to wax it. Early on in my ownership of my 6 I took it through automatic car washes as well and the microscratches started to appear. I stopped, then hand washed from that point on applying wax as well and noticed a huge difference in the shine.
  • Question: "Purge control solenoid"? Not sure who told you it was that. Assuming this is the same ticking we're talking about, I have the same ticking noise and it IS a normal condition of the engine. Check out www.mazda6tech.com. It's not a problem so much as a property or quirk of the engine. If it bothers you so much, insist that the service dept. also check the valve timing to ensure proper valve clearance/tolerances. That could also cause excessive ticking if something is out of wack there. The owner's manual tells you when those need to be inspected by the way. But if it's not that and as long as it's not interfering with the performance or function of the engine, you're going to have to live with it, turn the radio up or buy a new car.
  • isseyvooisseyvoo Posts: 121
    Finally asked the dealer to correct the non-functioning driver seat lumber support when I took the car in for its 1st oil change. They ordered, and have now replaced the knob on the seat, which (as I suspected might be the case), did absolutely nothing. Now they've ordered a new "seat frame." Don't know whether that's the whole assembly (with airbag, etc.) or just some piece that will be somehow replaced and then recovered with the existing upholstery. Either way, it's another inconvenient 50 mi. round trip to the dealer. Sigh . . . What was the result for the others of you that mentioned you had the same problem?
  • Have '03 6i w/manual trans. The bearings in the shift linkage have gotten worn after 46,000 miles & make an annoying clicking sound, especially on the up-shifts from 2-3rd & 4-5th gears. Otherwise the trans is fine. Has anybody else experienced this? Able to get the dealer to fix? Previous vehicle was a 9-yr old Acura Integra (170K miles) that maintained a firm shift throughout its life, so I find this unacceptable.
  • I have a 2006 Mazda6, and have also been having problems with my ACC. When the weather was warm it worked fine, but once the temperatures dropped into the 50's-60's, it started behaving strangely. For example, the cabin is already be at a comfortable temperature, and suddenly I'll get max heat blasting out the dashboard vents. Turning the temp control down a few degrees does nothing to stop it, until the setting gets to around 60 deg. The only way to keep from roasting is to manually direct the output to the floor vents. When it's colder out (35-50 deg.), the ACC directs lukewarm are to the floor, even after the engine is fully warmed-up and the cabin is cold.

    I was looking here to find out if others were having similar issues, or whether my ACC was simply defective. Since others are having similar problems, I'm hoping this isn't a case of a poorly designed system. I've had previous vehicles with ACC (GM, Nissan), and they were set-and-forget, always keeping the interior comfortable.

    I'm taking the car in tomorrow to have the dealer look into this, so hopefully it's something they can fix, and they won't just tell me it seems to be working as intended.
  • As I feared, the dealer called and said they didn't see the ACC acting-up, so they didn't look any further. :( They said they also contacted Mazda to see if there was a know issue, but were told there isn't.

    From the messages here it seems that I'm not the only one who has problems with the ACC. I'd like to know if anyone else is experiencing issues with their ACC, in case this is a common issue, but either not enough people have complained about it, or maybe Mazda isn't admitting it.
  • From the messages here it seems that I'm not the only one who has problems with the ACC. I'd like to know if anyone else is experiencing issues with their ACC, in case this is a common issue, but either not enough people have complained about it, or maybe Mazda isn't admitting it.

    From what I've seen and heard (based on many other forums besides this one, and other 6 owners), the ACC is not as common of a problem as one might think. My ACC has worked well from day one, and many others have as well.

    Does it rule out any problem with yours? Absolutely not. I'd check with another dealer if the problem surfaces again, and if you need to, go as far as showing them yourself the issue that you have.
  • My ACC has worked well from day one, and many others have as well.

    I'm glad that your ACC is working well. However, I'm trying to find users that are having a problem. I know I'm not completely alone, as [kbf59] also indicated that their system was acting-up. There may be others who have looked here for answers, but haven't posted before now.

    Showing the dealer is easier said than done with an intermittent problem. Murphy's Law means that it's not going to act-up in the five or ten minutes when the mechanic is there, so unless the dealer wants to have someone ride around with me for an afternoon, my next best bet was to see if others had an issue, and with any luck maybe find someone who was able to get it corrected. At very least, if others are having a similar problem, then it should be brought to Mazda's attention.
  • kbf59kbf59 Posts: 4
    I am definitely having problems but the opposite of you. I have to turn it up to 88 to get heat and it never really gets hot. I could set it at 90 and leave it there for hours and not get too warm. Below 85 I get cold air. I am bringing it into the dealership for my alignment problem tomorrow. I wanted to talk to them about the heat too but unfortunately it is going to be 65 degrees in Chicago at the end of November!!! Not a good day for it. I don't think Mazda will admit to anything. I've found lots of sites with lots of people whose cars pull to the right like mine. When the dealership called them they said that they don't know of any problems. I am so sick of this! I only have 1000 miles on it! I actually asked for a Mazda tech to be sent out to the dealership because I was told that I could do that. It doesn't look like it's going to happen...
  • I am definitely having problems but the opposite of you. I have to turn it up to 88 to get heat and it never really gets hot

    I've also had the problem of not enough heat, though since it's been unseasonably warm here in NJ, I only experienced that a few times. When it's cold outside, at times I only get lukewarm air, even after the engine is fully warmed-up. I know the system can put out very hot air, since it has done so when I didn't want it. But since it doesn't always misbehave, it's not just something I can show to the dealer.

    In general I'm very happy with the car, but this is the second major issue I've had, and I've got less than 3600 miles on it. When I first got it, the NAV system wasn't working right-- the GPS didn't function (it ran only on dead-reckoning), and the voice command didn't work. It took 3 trips to the dealer to get it fixed, and the problem turned out to be that much of the wiring was never connected at the factory. :mad:

    I hope you are able to get your alignment problem resolved, and with any luck also the heater. Good Luck!
  • Does anyone out there have this problem like me....

    I have a 2003 Mazda6 i. It has the manual ac. Anyway, my problem has to do with the heat. When the car fully warms up, I can have the heat on. Only lukewarm air comes out, unless I am driving or revving the engine. Then the air will get hotter. When I stop at a light, the air will turn cooler. Then again will get hot again when i am moving. Is this a simple fix, or will I be spending major $$$ at the dealer? I am going to take it into the dealer for an oil change this Monday, so I plan to mention this other problem too.
  • Has any one hear a noise from the engine when backing M6? I just bought my 2006 mazda6 yesterday and today when I was backing it into the parking lot, the engine's sound is so loud that even covered the music! I am going to take it to the dealer for checking up tomorrow.
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