Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

18081838586141

Comments

  • grahambgrahamb Posts: 45
    hey likaglov...
    it should work for you as it's worked for everyone who's tried it over at a different message board.

    Make sure the radio is off. hold seek down and 5 simultaneously till you get a confirmation beep...about 3 seconds or so.

    there you go...
  • Can you turn the beep back on by doing the same once its been turned off?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    Yes.

    (But why bother?)

    :-)
  • Thanks slickdog, I'm also using Mobil1 5W-30 in my 3.0 V6 on the advice of local Mazda service and parts guys (recommended for year-round use here in Colorado). Also appreciate the advice, info and caution regarding synthetic oil use in manual transmissions (brass or bronze synchros). Zoom, zoom...
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 878
    I just took my Mazda6s wagon in for its 5000 mile service. The Check Engine light just started coming on, and the serviceman said I had a slightly defective throttle body sensor, which was replaced under warranty. He said the only symptom I might have noticed was poorer gas mileage. So this might be something for others with lower gas mileage than they expect to have checked out.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    What happens if you hold the Seek and one of the other number keys for 3 seconds? Anybody wanna try it and let us know? :D
  • dans6dans6 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the idea to stop the BEEP. I just bought an '05 Steel Grey 6i Sport, and love it! The beeps were bothersome, but no more!!
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    No problem, I'll probably post when I change out my MT oil this summer. Haven't gathered enough info on what's most appropriate for it yet. I will probably also be using Mobil1 synthetic when it's time for my first oil change.
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Posts: 149
    Does anyone know how to change the "Bose Sound" message that is displayed when the car starts up?
  • My check engine light went on yesterday. I have a 2004 auto w/ 17k miles. I can't get it into the shop for 4 more days. Any suggestions?? Ok to drive for a few days?? I checked the manual and none of the common problems related to this are evident.
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 878
    Mine was on intermittently. At the 5000 mile oil change they discovered a defective throttle body sensor which was replaced under warranty. Only symptom was poor gas mileage. MPG has since gone up to around 20 mpg around town driving.
  • lexielexie Posts: 45
    Is your car an automatic or a manual? I am seriously thinking about it but am not sure now due to the low fuel economy. I can only drive an automatic.
  • My '04 Mazda 6 gave me a whiny/grindy noise, but it wasn't the engine.. it was eventually diagnosed as the fuel pump - replaced under warranty but not by my home dealer.. home dealer man refused to change the pump as "it was not faulty".... they lost me.. another dealer found me... but Mazda Canada didn't help.

    Sorry to ramble here... quick question.. the car sits in the garage for over 24 hrs.. I back it up in the morning and it won't move.. like the back brakes are welded together or the emerg brake is still on (it's not).... it's not until I rev high that it moves but with a forceful jolt sound coming from the back wheels.. thoughts? opinions? comments? thanks.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    After I wash the car, I usually move it in the driveway and park it, using the emergency brake. It's "stuck" for me as well when I go to drive it a few hours later. My guess is that the E-brake sticks when it gets wet, because it's happened to me after driving in a hard rainstorm as well.

    The dealer checked the E-brake after I mentioned something to them, and they said that it was okay, and within specs.

    From now on, after washing or a rainstorm, I just park it in gear, without the E-brake, and give it time to dry. Haven't had a problem since...
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    The sticking rear brakes problem is common. My Mazda6 does it, my wife's Outback does it, and my last Mazda did it too. I try to avoid using the parking brake if it's raining a lot or when I'm washing the car.
  • soupcxansoupcxan Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 6i automatic with 24k miles and lately I have noticed a rough shift when stopping at a light or intersection from +30mph (fourth gear). I do not drive aggressively or brake very hard. It happens once the car has slowed to below 5mph and is almost stopped...then it jumps forward just a little bit before stopping completely. Feels like the transmission is downshifting early. Not a huge deal but it is still annoying - does anyone have any ideas what I can tell the dealer? I had them check the rear rotors for warping under the TSB that came out back in 2004 but that didn't fix it.

    My car also has the infamous 1-2 shift shock problem when I drive it first thing in the morning. Has anyone found a reliable solution for this? Both dealers I've taken the car to say "lots of people have that problem, but we don't have a fix."
  • hi... before i reply -- just a quick thanks to "slickdog" and "mz6greyghost" for their e-brake advice - it's consistent with a third opinion so i will keep her in gear from now on, regardless of wet or dry weather......

    now the "infamous 1-2 shift shock"... i'm not quite sure what this is but here's what i experience on my 5 speed manual - tell me if i too have the 1-2 with mtx!!!.... first thing in the morning going up the street: the acceleration has a life of it's own while in first gear... for a nanosecond, it's like i'm pushing the accelerator further but i'm not.. i receive an uncontrolled and unwanted burst of acceleration energy... but it's not coming from my foot... if this is the 1-2 shift shock, i was told by the dealer that it's normal and it's nothing to worry about... hope this helps..
  • Someone told me I should try using a higher octane, like 89 or 91, to get better gas mileage. I checked the manual, and all it says is to use AT LEAST 87. Anyone know if higher octane is better for an 04 Mazda6s AT? P.S. My gas mileage is REALLY low now!! On half a tank, and 1/3 of the miles on the half tank being highway miles, I only got 140 miles. This is starting to get ridiculous. Like before, I'm not heavy on the gas pedal and I dont use the a/c. The tires are fine and the alignment is perfect.

    :confuse:
  • I have an 04 Mazda6 automatic. A few months ago I noticed that it was very difficult to turn the steering wheel. I took it to the dealer to get the alignment checked and they told me that my tires were a little low but other than that the alignment was fine. This car is like driving a car that doesn't have power steering - definitely not a car you can drive with one hand and hold your coffee with another - this is a two hander! However, when the dealer drove it they said it drove fine. Anybody else have the same problems?
  • denali856denali856 Posts: 118
    I have read elsewhere that the 6's engines are tuned for 87, and that it will provide the best performance. My understanding is that if an engine is tuned for a particular grade, the lowest grade for which it is tuned is the generally the best because the higher the octane, the LESS volatile the gas, and so it will tend to burn less violently and provide less power; and one should only go to higher octanes if one is having problems with pinging/knocking (which is indicative of ignition occurring prior to the spark and so can be corrected with less volatile fuel).

    Higher octanes are generally used in engines with higher compression ratios for this reason; the higher compression ratios require a fuel which will not spontaneously ignite under the higher pressures, leading to knocking. Of course, the flip side to this is that if your engine knocks on the lowest grade of fuel for which it is rated, you may have a problem with your timing being advanced out of spec, or there may be a quality problem with the PARTICULAR fuel you are using (and you should thus try a tank or two of the same grade from another supplier before going up in grade).

    Of course, there are some who say that regular unleaded, being a commodity (it's traded on commodities exchanges like gold, or pork bellies), is often purchased by retailers, especially no-name or off-brand retailers, at lowest cost, and so there may be quality issues with it, whereas a regular supplied by a branded retailer is more likely to be of better quality and have few impurities and more consistent and/or better detergent components added. I don't know how true this is; speaking for myself only, I've pretty consistently used discount brand suppliers for 87 and have never noticed a problem with it (but then, I live in NJ, the refining capital of the east coast).
Sign In or Register to comment.