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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    Okay, but you can't have detonation at idle speed. The engine would destroy itself, even if this were possible. Have you considered wrist pin noise? This can be tested by disconnecting one cylinder at a time---if the noise suddenly doubles in frequency, that wrist pin is loose.

    Let's see---other noises can be: fuel injector clicking; exhaust leak, valve tappet, worn camshaft lobe.....???

    What I'm driving at is that the only kind of noise that might appear when the engine is warm and not cold is one related to the thinning of the oil.

    Anyway, I wish I could hear it, I could talk more intelligently about it.

    MODERATOR

  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    Ok, I will try the spark plug test.
    I will also try to get a video with sound uploaded.
  • I have a 2006 Mazda 6 4 cyl. It was running fine. I came back from the holidays at home and unloaded my car. 2 hours later I went to run to the store and it wouldn't crank. At all. It tries really hard and sounds healthy, but it just won't start. The turnover sounds fine and the lights are all fine so I'm guess it's not the battery.

    Someone suggested spark plugs, but I doubt they'd all go out at the same time. Someone else suggested fuses, but I couldn't find any that were blown.

    Someone else suggested security system and to reset it, but I can't find out how to do that for the life of me!

    Any ideas?
  • abirdabird Posts: 7
    Well, my wife brought in my 04 mazda6 wagon in for service today. 63800 miles. Asked them to check out the clutch, since it has been shuddering when I shift from 1st to 2nd unless I give it more gas than usual. The response she gets is that the pressure plate is getting weak--it will likely be driveable this way for a while--and then I will need a new clutch to the tune of $1750. I am 43 years old, drive the car sensibly, and have never worn out a clutch this early.

    I have been searching the net for information, and see that I am not alone. See that there is a TSB which would appear to apply if the car were within 12mo or 12000mi of purchase--otherwise, would require "DCSM authorization."

    So my questions are:
    1) what does DCSM mean?
    2) what are my chances of getting Mazda to fix this, or at least reduce my cost? any advice on tactics?
    3) any experience/thoughts about how much savings there is to be had by going with an independent shop?
    4) does it make sense to consider an aftermarket clutch?

    I want to have this all planned out before the clutch dies--would really appreciate input about this.

    Thanks!
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    1. District Customer Service Manager. The Mazda fellow whose job it is to get you off the company's back at the lowest cost.
    2. Chances vary. The vehicle age and mileage you're at are not in your favor. Loyalty to the brand and dealer may help. Always pays to at least give it a try. If they turn you down, ask them to explain why the TSB doesn't apply.
    3. Estimates are free, often available right over the phone. A reputable independent shop can be 30-50% cheaper and every bit as good. A lot has to do with the cost of the parts, and availability of non-OEM parts.
    4. Depends. Typically aftermarkets are higher-performance tuner parts and cost more accordingly - not likely of interest to you. Another factor is how long you intend to keep the vehicle. The repair cost works out to $30 a month amortized over the next five years. Also, what could you buy in its place, even in trade?

    Having been in your place (not with my Mazdas), I've gone with the lowest price good shop I could find.
  • abirdabird Posts: 7
    Thank you, that is very helpful. Interestingly, the clutch is less symptomatic now that it has gotten warmer.

    I think the most likely scenario is that I will end up going with an independent shop. And yes, definitely seems more cost effective to fix rather than trade. I do like the car, and it has treated me pretty well. The only other significant repair was replacing the starter which was done under warranty.

    It appears that most of the cost is associated with labor rather than parts. Looks like I can get an OEM clutch for a little under $200, and an Exedy Stage 1 clutch (popular on the mazda6club forum) for a little over $300.

    What I don't know is whether the aftermarket clutch is likely to last longer. Any thoughts on that?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    I wouldn't buy an aftermarket clutch unless I spoke with (or internetted-with) someone who installed one. I'd be interested to see about pedal pressure. Some HD clutch packs can be a bear to push on, in traffic all the day long. Also, if the repair shop didn't order the part, then if something goes wrong, the repair shop will NOT warranty the work if it is a parts rather than an installation problem.

    Also keep in mind that clutch chatter is not always clutch related---the repair shop should carefully check for oil leaks and unusual wear on other components that work along with the clutch---so, too, motor and transmission mounts.

    MODERATOR

  • abirdabird Posts: 7
    Thanks. Yes, I think it makes sense to buy the parts from whomever does the work. Do HD clutches generally last longer? I anticipate that this car will stay in our family for 150K+ miles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    That's hard to say because HD clutches are usually put only into severe service.

    MODERATOR

  • bear26bear26 Posts: 12
    Hi,

    I have a 2010 Mazda 6 and have noticed that when I have the vents on (eg:face/feet) I will have intermittent sound coming from the main dash vent on my driver side..the vent just under the windshield. It sounds like the sound your vents make when they first open, the swoosh sound. Its almost like the vent is trying to open again, doesn't last long, maybe a second, but is kinda annoying.

    I just took it for service and the tech said it was normal HVAC operation after he drove it and heard it.

    Does anyone else second this or have another opinion?

    Thanks
  • My 2009 Mazda6 has the same noise. It sounds like the vent didn't open or close all the way.
  • Hi,

    Anyone know how to open the hatchback from the inside? it is jammed .

    Thanks

    ron
  • lg2207lg2207 Posts: 28
    Not sure if Mazda corrected or improved this design on the '09- but I had a similar problem on an '07 (you can check my previous posts)- but it was a purge valve mount issue on mine- I had to take it back two or three times before they finally heard it and acknowledged the issue: 01-012-07-ticking-noise-purge-valve
    I can send you the TSB if needed.

    Hope you get to the bottom of it-please advise
    sincerely,
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    Actually I was looking on youtube and I found a link to someone who did a walkaround the mazda6, now this is the same car I have, even the color is the same. Listen to the last part of the clip as he opens the hood and gets close to the engine, Raise the volume as much as you can and listen to the distinct knock
    This is the same exact noise of my engine, So it is not just me, maybe this is how these engines sound. But if this is the case, they really sound crappy. I expect a diesel engine to knock like that, not a petrol engine. Petrol engines are supposed to be smoother. Listen to it and tell me if you hear the knock, and if you think it is normal. The sound is only at last few seconds of the video.
    Thanks for the help
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm4WmtTcqQM&feature=fvw
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    edited February 2010
    Actually I was looking on youtube and I found a link to someone who did a walkaround the mazda6, now this is the same car I have, even the color is the same. Listen to the last part of the clip as he opens the hood and gets close to the engine, Raise the volume as much as you can and listen to the distinct knock
    It is not the noise of the clicking of the fuel injectors that I am talking about, but a faint background knock sound similar to 2 marbles rolling around in a tin can,
    You might need to listen to it a few times to train your ear to the sound.
    This is the same exact noise of my engine, So it is not just me, maybe this is how these engines sound. But if this is the case, they really sound crappy. I expect a diesel engine to knock like that, not a petrol engine. Petrol engines are supposed to be smoother. Listen to it and tell me if you hear the knock, and if you think it is normal. The sound is only at last few seconds of the video.
    Thanks for the help
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm4WmtTcqQM&feature=fvw
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    What I hear is lifter noise.

    MODERATOR

  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    How serious is that, and is it worth complaining about it to try to get it fixed. If it is something that will not affect the long life of the engine, I had rather the dealer does not mess with it.
    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    edited February 2010
    Well it depends on how hard it's hammering. Your engine has, I believe, a shim-type valve adjustment, which is a fairly tedious process. I don't think modern engines should be clicking away like that but, since they are adjustable type lifters, a bit of noise is quite normal. How many miles on this engine?

    MODERATOR

  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    This issue started since the engine was new after a few thousand kilometeres. Became noticable after the first oil change at the dealer, and was the same from that point on. It is not getting worse. But I do notice the intensity of the noise varies depending on humidity (less when it is more humid), and on fuel grade (less with better fuel). That is why I originally thought it is related to combustion.
    My engine currently has 35,000 KM on it. The dealer I bought the car from dismissed it as normal 4 Cylinder engine noise. I did make the complaint early on when the car had only 12,000 KM (second oil change).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    Well why not pair it up head to head with another identical car in the dealer's lot, and see which is noisier, if either?

    If they both make the same noise, he wins. If his is quiet and noise is conspicuously more noisy, then he should do something about your car. Seems like a fair bet.

    MODERATOR

  • I have a 03 mazda 6 with @84000 miles on it> Check engine light came on with a misfire in cylinder 6. I just replaced all 6 coil packs and spark plugs because that is what i was told it was. It is still misfiring puttering hesitating and the check engine light came back on. Could anybody help me with what is wrong with this car. This was my dream car I bought it in sept and it has sat since oct got it out yesterday to work on it now is sitting again. Please any suggestions would help.
  • Well, I think it is a sensor. First the O2 sensor (oxygen sensor) , then MAP sensor (mass air flow), next PCV (positive crankase vent), last check your fuel pressure, and flow rate. Hope you used an O2 sensor "safe" antisieze on the plugs. If not the O2 is now bad. Good luck...
  • What's the best kind of oil for a 2009 Mazda 6 with a 2.5 LT engine? I read in the manual about the standard oil that it is recommended, but is Catrol GTX better? Would it increase the egnine life and perform better?
  • I recently had a similar problem with my 05 Mazda 6 GT 6 cylinder. Check engine light came on and the computer couldnt detect a fault (no codes showed). Not the gas cap either. But when I filled up it was difficult to start the engine. The mechanic at Metro Town Mazda in Burnaby BC Canada (Frank) thought it may be the Purge Solenoid that became stuck on open. They replaced the Solenoid and I have had no problems since.
  • ronsteffronsteff Posts: 6
    i brought a new 2110 mazda 6 i touring 4 cyl inotice a hole under the oil filter should there be a round cover there and can i use synthetic oil
  • ronsteffronsteff Posts: 6
    i have a new 2010 i touring 6 does anyone know if the front windows go down with the key fab i was told by the dealer not on the model i have but in the owners manual it doesnt say what model
  • I have 2009 Mazda6, bought in early Nov 2008, now 20k miles. My dealer (Oaktree, San Jose) always asked me go back every 3750 miles, that's about every 3 months. I commute 25 mi/each way to work, of which, 24 mi is highway. Average 30-45 min some stop-and-go traffic. Since they offer "complete care", I don't mind going back that frequent to have them inspect my car. I paid about $30-$60 after discount. (Download coupon from mazdausa.com.)
  • al33al33 Posts: 2
    Hi, I tried starting my car this morning and nothing happened except the odometer needle went crazy and the security light (shapped like a car with a key inside) was flashing fast. After boosting it, it finally started but although I let it run for a few minutes, when I tried to restart again, it wouldn't start. In the owner's manual they say to take the car to the dealer and that it could be a key programming problem. Could it be a computer problem that could be solved by some sort of reset?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    Sounds like the battery needs to be replaced. This can cause the gauge needles to jump when trying to start the car. And although the lights and other accessories may be functioning okay, there may not be enough to start the engine.
  • al33al33 Posts: 2
    Thanks. I changed the battery and now the engine starts. But how can I be sure it wasn't the generator (alternator)?
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