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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    You could always take the alternator to an Advanced Auto or Autozone. They can test the alternator to see if it's functioning properly, at no charge. If it's not the alternator, and the new battery also loses it's charge, then you may have a draw from the electrical system.

    Chances are that the battery was the culprit, since alternators aren't a common problem with the 6, and batteries can last anywhere from 2-6 years, depending on the climate extremes and how much you drive. I replaced the battery in my '04 last summer after discovering that the OEM battery was barely holding a charge...
  • sennaf1sennaf1 Posts: 1
    want a good tire at a good price. no driving in snow. want a tire that is quiet and handles reasonably well.
  • Check out the General Exclaim UHP. Got these last year from the Tire Rack, there was a rebate, so a great price. They are summer ultra high performance tire. I have a set of Blizzak's for winter. I cannot make these squeal, great traction dry and wet.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I have a 2007 Mazda6. All the windows worked fine yesterday.

    Today when I wanted to put all the windows down a few inches, all but the front passenger window went down. Then when I wanted to put them up the rear ones would not move and they will not go further down either. Subsequently I found that the both the front windows will go down with the remote and I can also put them up and down by turning the key in the drivers door.

    So the driver's window works normally. The passenger window does not respond to either switch, but the motor definitely works as I can operate the window by using the key. The rear windows also do not respond to either the switch by the driver or the switches by each window.

    I find it hard to believe that all 6 of these switches have failed simultaneously. Any ideas?
    :confuse:
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    Have you checked the fuses? Not sure if they can affect the switch operation.

    IIRC, if the battery has been disconnected, I think the windows need to be reprogrammed for the auto-down w/remote feature. Not sure if/how they could have lost power, but maybe they need to be reprogrammed?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    edited May 2010
    There is only one fuse for windows, so it would not be that since the driver's window works normally, including auto down. (checked it anyway and it is fine)

    I checked that reprogramming procedure but the first step is to lower the window and the ones that don't work don't work at all. Plus rear ones don't have that feature anyway.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    You have a bad master switch in the driver's door. You can try taking it apart and cleaning the contacts, but, I would recommend you replace it with a new one.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Actually, after taking it in to a local shop, I just found out it was the lock out switch on the driver's arm rest. I must have bumped it. :blush:

    I had even meant to check that...but then I had also been mistakenly thinking that would only affect the two rear windows.
  • didi4didi4 Posts: 1
    i have a 2003 mazda6 i and my engine light came on and it wouldnt keep a charge. i put new battery and new alternator, nothing work so i told it to mazda they told me i needed a pcm replaced. i was charged $2073 to replace my pcm and after getting my car back my air bag light is now on and d engine light is still on so they say i now need a pcv hose and airbag control unit which will cost me $1600 more. do and one have a comment please.
  • jmagnanjmagnan Posts: 1
    Hello, I went to Auto zone because my car wouldn't start & I thought it was the battery. When I had him test the battery he found out that it was my alternator. I had my neighbor, who works on cars, change my alternator. I jumped the battery & drove it to his house. He changed the alternator with no problems, but it would not start. The battery was not picking up a charge, so I went & purchased a new one thinking that would do the trick. Well it still didn't start after that. Do you think that something may have triggered a problem with the computer & the computer may need to be reprogrammed to clear up the low battery voltage? Any insight you can give will be appreciated! Thanks
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    I want to change the transmission fluid on my 2009 Mazda6, it is getting close to 30,000 miles and the fluid lost its pink color. It is currently light brown.
    1. Which transmission fluid should I use.
    2. Does this transmission have a drain plug like most Japanese transmissions that is easily accessible? any help with the location of the drain plug is appreciated.
  • tatersacktatersack Posts: 1
    I just reached 60,000 miles on my 2007 Mazda 6. Recently my car's clock has started jumping forward a few minutes each time I turn off the car and leave it for a while. Each morning when I wake up to go to work it has hopped up 30 minutes past the actual time.. By the time I get out to lunch it's added another 15 minutes, and by the time I go home it's added another 15 minutes. I've stopped resetting it at this point and over the past few days it has hopped up close to four hours. I had my battery checked twice and it is fine. I checked all the fuses (just in case) and they are fine. Any ideas what could be causing this? Is it a computer problem?
  • donna50donna50 Posts: 1
    Has anyone ever had this happen to them? This is my first summer with this car, and since I started running the AC I've noticed the rug on the passenger side getting wet, and have actually heard water sloshing/gurgling around when I go around corners and stop the car! I've also seen the water dripping from directly behind my glove compartment. I've been told this is probably debris from the outside that clogged the drain from the AC and I could probably clear it myself. I would like to note that my car does not overheat with the AC on, and the AC is running nice and cold. Anyone? :confuse:
  • bear26bear26 Posts: 12
    Hi, I noticed this past weekend when I started my car, and the A/C was already set to on, there was a grinding noise coming from the engine area. It lasted for about 2-3seconds and then a rotten egg smell came from the vents for about a minute. This happened 3 times and it seemed to occur after my car had sat for awhile, primarily starting it the next morning.

    Mazda looked at it and said they couldn't find anything. They also said that it is a known issue that at times, if the RPM's are at a certain point, the compressor clutch can get caught and make that noise.

    Any other ideas?
  • cculleycculley Posts: 2
    yes it happened to me. I have a 2006 Mazda6 I bought new. Probably 2 years after I had it I heard the sloshing and dripping. I took it to the dealer and they said dirt or something was blocking the outlet , so the water was not dripping outside, it was dripping inside. It was under warranty and they fixed it for free.
  • al5000al5000 Posts: 12
    almost certainly clogged drain hose.
  • aaron1218aaron1218 Posts: 2
    from 1/8th to one quarter of a tank my mazda 6 starts to sputter when i accelerate. After filling the tank the problem goes away, how many gallons does a normal mazda 6 tank fill? has anyone ever had this problem? is it fuel injection or dirty residue in the tank? ive had this car for 4 years its has 82,000 miles and has just started happening
  • aaron1218aaron1218 Posts: 2
    anybody out there?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,837
    Hi Aaron - this isn't a chat, but a message board, meaning responses aren't real-time. If you wait for awhile, someone will likely come along and have ideas for you.

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    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    The 2006 version has an 18 gallon tank.

    Have not had this problem myself, but my 2007 has only 29K mi.
  • abirdabird Posts: 7
    I would suspect the fuel filter.
  • I have basically the same problem with our 2005 V-6 5 speed, now a 92K. Go back on this forum or perhaps the one on engine problems to see the discussion. It will also happen if I take a long corner at a steady speed, like an entrance ramp. Haven't done anything about it yet, just fill up at 1/4 tank. Probably the filter or perhaps the evaporation canister. I am going to do a driver's school at Road America the end of August, so probably should get this fixed. Don't want to loose power around the carosuel.
  • gpkozmpgpkozmp Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Mazda 6, 2.3L with a manual transmission. Lately I have been having trouble with the clutch pedal sticking and it wasn't so bad. However now it is sticking all the time and in order to get it back out I have to put my foot behind it and pull it forward. Also when I am pushing it in I hear a click and I can feel it in my foot. I am not sure what this is but lately it is getting harder to put the car in 1st geat. I am wondering: Is my clutch about to go out? Has anybody else had this problem? Could anybody else help me out? Would my best bet be to take it in to a mechanic for them to tell me what is wrong with it?

    Another thing I have had happen is my check engine light is on. I went to checker auto store and had them hook up their little machine and it came back with an error code of 00128, which is the "coolant thermometer" I am wondering if anybody has had to replace their's and if they have a detailed diagram or something I can look at to find this part. Any help is Greatly appreciated and I thank you in advance. The best way to advise me to by email so please do not hesitate. gpkozmp02@yahoo.com. Thank you again.
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    My guess is the clutch cylinder. When my '05 was new it had overly soft and late clutch engagement and a detent point in the travel. The dealer replaced the cylinder and the clutch feel changed dramatically. Your situation seems very similar.
  • gpkozmpgpkozmp Posts: 2
    Thank you for your help I will have them look into it cause I really want to get it fixed before something major goes back. If you don't mind was it expensive to fix?
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    It was replaced under warranty within the first month, so I didn't pay anything.
  • I have a 2010 Mazda 6 V6, S Touring Plus. When the weather gets hot, say 85 degrees plus, and I raise the front windows with the automatic windows up feature, both windows go up, but as soon as they reach the closed position, they come back down to about half way. It appears there is some sort of sensor not working right. Anybody got any ideas? I will of course take it to my dealer, but I always appreciate opinions on this forum. The only way I can get them up, is to use the pull up the window switch a bit at a time, then it closes.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    It does sound like a sensor issue, and it's something to do with the rollback feature that keeps fingers and hands from pinching in the window. Double-check the track and window-stripping to make sure that there's nothing in the way within the window track, but it does sound like a sensor malfunction.
  • i have a 2110 mazda6 now the horn does not sound when i lock the doors with the keyless anyone have a clue
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    Make sure the trunk and hood are tightly latched as well, the horn won't sound if the trunk is ajar...
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