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2013 and Earlier - Mazda6 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • benny24benny24 Posts: 5
    One other thing:

    You said you got over 5K off the MRSP, when you factored in taxes and destination fee, what was the net savings?

    I only ask because all the fees/taxes were included in my original offer.

    Thanks
  • m6userm6user Posts: 2,950
    Mine was a cash deal, no trade in. The MSRP was about $21500 if I recall and I paid $16500 plus TTL. Total was around $18000. Not knowing what taxes you're paying or doc fee, title fee, etc it is hard to give you good advice. Sales taxes can make a huge difference. 10% in Chicago, 0% in NH. That would make the "out the door" price a little different wouldn't you say?

    I really don't know when the 2012s will be out but I would expect them in Sept or Oct. Because they are coming out with some new advanced engines it's possible they may be even later. I'm guessing based on when Mazdas have usually came out in the past and from what I've read.

    What was the actual sales price of the vehicle they were quoting you, not including TTL, but after deducting for your trade and the rebate?

    Whenever there is a trade involved it's hard to pin down the exact deal you're getting because they can give you more than you think your trade may be worth but less off on the new car or vice versa, lower price on the new car....screw you on the trade. If you have a good idea of what your trade is worth and they are giving you that, it makes it a lot easier.
  • benny24benny24 Posts: 5
    The sale price they quoted me was $20020. Minus $2500 for trade and rebate = $17520. They told me that included taxes, fees and destination charge.

    The original quote they gave me a week ago included $1463.95 in taxes and fees. This new quote I just got already includes all those fees. So I'm looking at $17520 out the door.

    I feel my trade value is on par with the going rate.
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    As far as what a good price might be, I'd go no higher than invoice + $500 and only after I was convinced I cou;nd't do better. Any higher than that and I'd walk away entirely.

    Just bought a car last night at invoice using Zag.com/Overstock. Try there.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 2,950
    As best as I can figure you're getting about $3000 off MSRP. That seems to be a decent deal and is below invoice after the rebate is applied. If you like the car, especially since there are few sticks available, I would go for it.
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    I think you missed some details there, the $3000 below MSRP includes the trade in from what I can tell.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 2,950
    He says it's $17520 out the door and TTL was $1464. Trade was $2000.

    17520 OTD
    -1464 ttl
    =$16056
    +2000 trade
    =$18056 paid for car

    MSRP was $20950 or thereabouts. So the $18056 is about $3000 under list.
  • truecar.com says (in my area) I could get a 2011 Mazda 6 i GT with the technology package for:

    25,246 (the sticker is 29,400 and the dealer cost is 25,900).

    Could this be true or is truecar over estimating the best deal?
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    Sales of the 6 have been very slow lately. According to Edmunds, the invoice-sticker spread is 2389 and total cash spiffs are $1500 on the 2011. So 2389+1500=3889 off sticker or 25511. The difference may be due to -500 loyalty +200 profit, which would bring the price to 25211. Close enough.

    Now this was back in 2005 and 2008, but both times I bought Mazdas (6 and CX-7) for $5500 under sticker in the Sept/Oct timeframe.
  • Hi Gurus,
    Just got my CPO 09 6i Touring, 2.5L, auto, 15K miles, white/black, Bose, Sunroof, keyless start, aluminum wheels, for $18,000+TTL. How was the deal?
  • You did just fine. Nice deal. You definitely didn't get screwed. The changes between 2009 and 2012 are minimal and insignificant. Mileage is low, ad yu got really great features tossed in for a good price. You can breathe easy. The only thing I suggest is make sure you have the vehicle history report to assure yourself it wasn't salvaged, or had heavy repairs, and so you know the maintenance record. In many states, if you bought it from a dealer, they are required to give it to you with/ before the purchase. Make sure you have it, even if you have to spend a few dollars to get it yourself.
  • Better time to buy, the last few days of August or Labor Day weekend? Will Mazda continue its summer sales event after 8/31?
  • I checked both autocheck and carfax. Carfax was clean and autocheck score is above the range. But the thing is that the vehicle was registered in Oct 2008, so there is only 2 month original warranty left, although the CPO does have another 12month dealer warranty. What I'm concerned is that this almost 3 yr old Mazda 6 probably would get de-valued very much soon. I plan to trade it in after ~2 yrs.
  • Well I wouldn't be too quick to make plans about whether to sell in 2 years, but that's just my opinion. You really don't know how the economy is gong to go. Currenltly, the price you paid is pretty cost justified. As to the warranty, I have questions whether Mazda is particularly good standing behind the warranty anyway - it's probably okay on some smaller stuff. What I would do, however, is check dealers around you toby googling them. When you google them, you will find the number of stars, and if you click on the stars, you will find out what opeople think of the dealers. What I find is that there are very few good/ honest dealers, and a lot of complaints about dealers for repairs. A better way to go is to search yelp.com for a good independent mechanic, even more so because you have almost no warranty to protect. Your better off finding a good shop than worrying about the warranty. Another thing I would do is go to http://www.truedelta.com/reliability.php You can join free, if you submit periodic maintenance reports to truedelta, which is a noncommercial site, you have access by year to reliability records for every model cars, as well as information on repair cost by car and model. Definitely worth doing. And you can compare the reliability of the 2009 Mazda 6 with the 2010's, 2011's, Hondas, Fords, etc..
  • I am looking at a new 2011 Mazda 6 after considering Fusions and Sonatas both new and used. We have a Fusion that we love, but they have gone up quite a bit in price and the Mazda 6 has the same exact engine so we think it will be a good purchase. The zero pecent financing is very appealing as well. We found a 2011 Mazda 6 iSport for $19,550. I think it's a basic package. What do you think of this price? (We're in northenr Cal.)
  • mrchuck1mrchuck1 Posts: 21
    Good Deal! My experience with Mazda is great. They stand behind it. Solid warranty.
    My 2010 Mazda 6iGT is outstanding, as is my dealer in Tyler, TX.
  • My sense is the deal sucks. I haven't looked it up for you - you can do the footwork, but I'll tell you were to do your research. www.trucar.com and autotrader.com Without doing research on those sites you won't have a clue as to whether you are anywhere in the ball park. Trucar is an especially good site, and you should not settle for getting just an average mediocre deal. My view is there is no excuse to get a really great deal unless you have money to through away. I even believe you can do better than at trucar -there best numbers, but at least that will give you some measure of what is a successful purchase.
  • I'm hoping to get some speedy feedback because I need to make a decision by tomorrow.

    The car: 2011 Mazda 6 s Touring (3.7 6 cyl engine) with sun roof and cloth seats. (Location of dealer - central New Jersey)

    MSRP $27,795

    I pay: $25,000 inclusive of 7 % sales tax, delivery charge, 4 year registration and documentation fees. This works out to a net price before taxes and charges of $22,698.

    In addition, the dealer will add on a spoiler for $ 200 and if I trade in my 2002 toyota corolla with 185,000 miles on it they will deduct another $400.

    Is this a good deal? They showed me an invoice which showed the car costing the dealer $26,250, but I don't know what kind of incentive or rebates the dealer received.

    By way of background, we were practically set to buy a 2008 Mazda 6 3.0 6 cylinder car for $16,900 (exclusive of sales tax and other fees) from another dealer, until we learned that the 2008 cars have ford engines. THe new car dealer told us that the 6 cyl engines in the cars before 2009 had problems, but I don't know how true that is.

    I'd appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    Going by your numbers, that's 5097 off sticker, near as good as it gets. If you qualify for Mazda loyalty or (get them to spoof it for you), that's another $500.

    Regarding the "bad" engines, consider this: if he said the engines were fine, would be more or less inclined to buy the new one, or from this dealer? You get the new one if you want the size, features, warranty etc and are OK with the deal. The rest is sales propaganda.
  • Got a price quote as follows:

    '11 mazda 6i GT w/ Technology Pkg. (Red Mica)

    Sticker: 29,800

    Offering 26,795 (they are willing to find the color I want, which is why the deal is not better). 0% financing and free oil changes/loaner cars for life and 8 yr/ 100k powertrain.

    Thoughts?
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