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fowler3
Anyway, I have "eased up" today on the car. Today the weater is just as lousy as yesterday (although I parked in my garage and under the outdoor parkade cover. The heater did ok - no fogging up. I guess yesterday I just had a bad experience and combined with the crappy drive home, long work week etc I blew my stack. It's not so bad.
The wipers suck though. They frequently make a horrid screech on the way back down. Gotta replace those.
Jarrett
(I love the car. I just point out the bad stuff because gushing about the good stuff all day would be boring - you've all heard that from everyone already).
fowler3
but only when the Mazda 3 God smiles upon us (bluong1) and tells us EXACTLY what to set the stuff at will we get fog free perfection...
To get back to more mundane subjects, I was following (for the 1st time I may add, a white TSX on the Queensway (local highway going through Ottawa) and I was having mixed feelings : ie wondering what this guy thinks of the Mazda 3 behind him, while envying him for owning a TSX... but in the end I assume he knows that the 3 behind him is 12K cheaper... The TSX trunk lid by the way is very small, similar to the Mazda3.
My son is upset about the 3 clock as it shows 7:29 p.m. as 19:29 p.m. I explain to him the benefits of having to learn instantly how to read a 24h clock but he doesn't buy it. I'm ex-military so a 24hr digital clock means squat to me, but for a 11 y-old, he hates having to substract 12 every time...
Fog issues were under control today, but cold has left Ottawa for a while...
Pet
I want to clarify something about what you put in a prev post.
"Hot air will not hold moisture, that's why moisture condenses on the windshiled. And why wet air from the Gulf of Mexico falls as rain or snow when it meets cold air from Canada over the Mid-Atlantic states."
In fact, hot air can hold far more moisture than cold air. It only deposits that moisture as precipitation (in the case of a warm, moist air mass travelling northward into cooler air) or as condensation (a warm, moist air mass coming in contact with a cool, dry surface)
The rest of your post makes sense to me, but I wanted to point that out for others just in case.
Don't get all hung up on the condensation/fogging issue. If my parents' $62,000 CAD Lexus RX330 does the same thing - don't sweat it, no pun intended.
The Mz3 is a great car, other cars have the same issue - it's not that big a deal for most of us. Granted, those in far northern areas will suffer more on account of the extreme cold - but that goes for all cars, not just the 3.
I really only have a few minor complaints / observations about the 3
1. The radio volume control - 4 is too quiet but 5 is too loud.
2. I miss automatic headlights - I may try and find a way this feature.
3. I also miss the feature that automatically locks (when you start to drive) / unlocks the doors (when you take the key out) Hope to find a way to add this - but most likely will cost more that I will be willing to pay.
4. Gas tank could be a little bigger - maybe 17 gallons - I normally don't like to be much under 1/4 of a tank - so it looks like I will be filling up about every 275-300 miles
& bring over the DSC for the oversteering 3, damn it! Hey, how come no one complained about it driving on snow?
& that small trunk also comes w/ a limited-view rear glass.
I followed our TSX recently while driving a rental Taurus. Despite the TSX has lots of suspension travel, I can sense its overly taut suspension setting over every bump simply by looking at it! You know what? If you can see it, it's pretty bad. Only the soft bushings that mask the harshness give the passengers the illusion that it doesn't ride that hard. How can anyone envy such car while following it?
Even though the 3 on AutoMotor und Sport TV also looks not very calm on road irregularities, at least it doesn't jerk as taut as the TSX.
Today, I saw MotorWeek showing the AWD G35 --looks like a shallow-riding car over their less-than-perfect narrow road, although the shock setting looks quite calm while doing slalom.
It was during '83 when I first noticed a new 626 along side an S-class after entering an unpaved road in front of our car. I hardly saw any movement from the S-class, but this short-spring early-day FWD Mazda started moving up & down constantly at high amplitude.
During late '80's, I was watching a foreign TV w/ a Laser(323) crossing a dip followed by an S-class. The difference this time isn't so much on the amount of up-&-down amplitude, as this newer Mazda design no longer got extremely short travel. It's the quickness of that "down-&-up" movement. The Mercedes may move about as much, but at a much slower rate that delays the movement to reduce g-force on its occupants. I finally learned why...
During the early '90's I noticed the interesting difference b/t the calm-shock-setting Mitsu Diamante that floats slowly vertically on the bumpy 110 fwy, while the Acura Legend, although perhaps w/ no-less spring length, along side the Mitsu simply rocks back & forth like a prancing horse.
It's amazing to see people all around me idiotic enough to misjudge the cars' ride comfort while doing visual check. I'm already irritated enough by those who think they can judge the car's rear leg room by looking at the knee room from outside the car!
One example was my girl cousin who was showing me how soft-riding this '87-91 Camry riding on the bumpy carpool lane to our left. She only sees the resilient wheel movement to the wheel well, but failed to notice how unserene the body movement was.
Another example, again on the next loser FWD Toyota plaform, was when my other cousin who drove his '97-01 Camry while got bounced up & down by a deep bump. His cousin driving behind him told him later that his Camry looked like it's got the suspension travel almost like a Citroen. Was he only trying to show how knowledgeable he is that he know what a Citroen is? Eventhough the springs may extend quite a bit due to the nature of soft-setting suspensions, but these 20th-Century Camrys got hardly any suspension travel to take bump compression.
pepad, its amazing you always bring up subjects that intrigue me!
I'll take fog any day!!
1) put the vent power on position 2
2) do not use "defog position", put the the "defog and foot heater position"
3) do not put the air intake at "recycle position" but the air from the "outside air button"
4) let the car run for 1 minute.
5) Then Go, there shouldn't be any condensation on your windshield or side glasses.
Someone on ebay is selling brushed aluminum (simulated) dash trim kits for the Mazda 3. I have to admit, they look really cool! He also has a large amount of positive feedback for his kits.
I have to admit Im tempted to try it with my black leather interior etc. Might look sharp. Any thoughts? Will it be totally fake looking? Anyone know someone that used a kit like this? My biggest fear is I will apply it crookedly, or it will start to peel off.
Jarrett
by the way, for all you non-canadians, welcome to your taste of canadiana. we hate our cars, we love our cars. changing your mind is a canadian custom that is near and dear. making a big deal about the trials and tribulations of stuff you buy is another custom, as it is culturally unacceptable to make a big to do about the country, so we project that feeling onto purchases instead.
and, those non-fogging mazda 3's in ottawa and quebec? there' re driven by acrobats and mimes who don't exhale very much.
2004 MAZDA3 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
2004 MPV 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Certain vehicles may come equipped with a Passenger Air bag Deactivation(PAD) system. Whenever PAD system components are repaired or replaced, the seat weight sensors (SWS) must be calibrated. Follow the procedure below to perform the calibration. Before starting, have ready the following: - Temperature meter (or equivalent) to measure ambient temperature - Voltmeter for measuring battery voltage - Two (2) 44 pound weights - Plastic cover to protect seat (do not exceed 0.4 lbs) Note 1: This procedure must be performed if PAD system components are repaired or replaced. Note 2: When "LIGHTLY PAT THE PASSENGER SEAT CUSHION" is displayed on any WDS screen, lightly pat five times across the headrest or upper side of the seat back of the passenger side seat. Note 3: The 44 lb weights must be accurate within 1% to properly calibrate the seat weight sensors. Mandatory calibrated weights (in 22 lb/10kg increments) will be shipped to all dealers with ETA of February 2004. Begin calibration procedure: 1. Connect WDS to vehicle and turn ignition key ON (do not start engine), and identify the vehicle specification. 2. Select TOOL BOX 3. Select BODY 4. Select RESTRAINTS 5. Select SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR REZERO PROCEDURE. Press tick. 6. Select option (1) When you have replaced any SWS(s) or SWS Module, and/or any seat part except SWS. Press tick. 7. Set ignition switch to OFF (Position 0). Press tick. 8. Make sure passenger seat is correctly installed and fully secured to the vehicle. Press tick. 9. Set the seat slide adjustment to the furthest rearward position. Do not touch the seat until further instructed. Press tick. 10. Confirm and keep the following conditions (as shown on screen). NOTE 1: Use voltmeter to measure battery voltage. NOTE 2: To place seat back in "most forward position", move forward then back until first click is heard. Press tick. 11. If vehicle was moved from a different location, at a different temperature, you must wait the specified time shown on screen before proceeding. The value "T" is the difference of the temperatures at: (1) location vehicle parked (2) location vehicle is calibrated NOTE: Use a temperature meter to measure temperatures. Press tick. 12. Lightly pat the passenger seat cushion. Press tick. 13. Set ignition switch to ON (Position II). Press tick and wait. 14. When screen shows "Would you like to proceed with SWS calibration?" Select "YES" and wait. 15. Put the specified weight of 44 pounds on the passenger seat (in the center). NOTE: Use plastic or paper to protect seat. Press tick. 16. Lightly pat the passenger seat cushion. Do not touch the seat until further instructed. Press tick and wait. 17. Screen will show: Did you place the specified weight on the passenger seat? Select "YES". 18. Did you replace both SWSs in this repair? Select "YES". 19. Set the seat slide adjustment to the furthest forward position. Place the specified weight on the passenger seat. Press tick. 20. Lightly pat the passenger seat cushion. Do not touch until further instructed. Press tick and wait. 21. Do you wish to calibrate SWS module using an additional weight of 88 pounds? Select "YES". 22. Put the specified weight of 88 pounds on the passenger seat (in the center). NOTE: It is recommended to add a second 44 pound weight to total 88 pounds (to reduce injury from lifting). Press tick. 23. Set the seat slide adjustment to the furthest rearward position. Press tick. 24. Lightly pat the passenger seat cushion. Do not touch the seat until further instructed. Press tick and wait. 25. Screen will show: Did you place the specified weight on the passenger seat? Select "YES". 26. Screen will show: Did you replace both SWSs in this repair? Select "YES". 27. Set the seat slide adjustment to the furthest forward position. Place the specified weight on the passenger seat. Press tick. 28. Lightly pat the passenger seat cushion. Do not touch the seat until further instructed. Press tick and wait. 29. Remove the weight (ie: all test weights) from the passenger seat. NOTE: Remove weights one at a time to reduce injury. Press tick. 30. Set the seat slide adjustment to the furthest rearward position. Press tick. 31. Lightly pat the passenger seat cushion. Do not touch the seat until further instructed. Press tick and wait. 32. Screen shows: Calibration successfully completed! Press tick to end procedure. NOTE: Additional changes may be made to these steps in the WDS software. Look for updates to this MTO, and be sure to follow screen instructions.
But, you have to wait in line 6 months to get one.
barry42 Feb 1, 2004 10:58am
"Your #6076 My Mazda3 HB has a pollen filter !!"
If this filter is also called the "snow-flake filter", then N.A. should have it.
fowler3
If the climate is too cold they move to where it is too hot. If their house has few windows, they buy one with glass walls. Same thing with cars, if one is too small they trade for one that is too big. Too cushy soft, they get one that is too firm.
It takes time to find what is just right -- moderation -- works best.
fowler3
Take a gander at some of the issues in their first build year. Most noticeably, annoying creaks and horrible gas mileage."
It's expected. A car heavier than the N.A. Accord w/ weak-low-end output will only cost gas $.
That's what's wrong w/ a 4-cyl smooth enough to encourage the driver rev all the time. The balance shafts that cost 6 hp is the culprit. These 2 shafts use energy, not just cancelling out the vertical vibration from the 4 cylinders, but also cancelling each other's lateral vibration, all at twice the spinning speed as the engine rpm.
That's why the vibration-free in-line 6 is so desirable, but too nose-heavy for a compact FWD. That's why it's desirable to get a compact RWD so the 6-cyl won't have to be placed far forward at the nose-heavy position.
Mazda 323 has been offering 1.8/2.0 V6 for many years, but such displacement is inefficient for this many cylinders.
The temperature is supposed to be 5 F. (-15 C.) tonight here, but I am sure that is nothing compared to more northern climes. For really extreme weather, might not the Volvo or Saab be better equipped?
step away for a few days to have a baby, and you come back to see the board alive with some angry Canucks, all over the defrost & fogging.
Just for the record, let me say, I've only had 2 days where I had fog freeze on the inside of my Mazda3 windshield. Otherwise, it's been perfect.
However, perhaps there is a reason...when I picked up the car, the salesman absolutely told me "Do NOT use the circular air vents on the dash in winter. Keep them closed"
When I asked him why, he just gave me the line, "well you know, it's really just a summer thing for air conditioning. don't use it"
Now, I can smell deceit a trillion miles away, and knew that there must be some issue. But he wasn't coughing up, and since there were other vents on the dash for defrosting the side windows and front passengers, I decided it wasn't an issue worth arguing over.
What I finally noticed is that in extremely cold weather (-25C/-13F or below) , when I DO open the circular vents, the air pressure goes down, and it's harder to defog the side windows, or at least right away. Closing the circular vents helps alleviate it greatly on MOST days.
This won't work for everyone (esp. in Winnipeg where my in-laws tell me it's been -40C/F recently). But it just might help out.
BTW, everfeb, I feel for you. I lived in Winnipeg for a year, and that was one of the most painful winters I've ever endured. Great city, great people...but the warmth of the citizens is inversely proportional to that of their winters.
I hope Mazda addresses this problem -- here in New England it gets cold enough so that good heat is important.
If, in fact, it is also a "ionizer" ---- then no one should want one, or it should be disconnected! Ionizers produce ozone, and the National Institute of Health specifically warns against such devices in no uncertain terms see : http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/ozonegen.html
*fingers crossed*
Jarrett
LOL - that's a funny one because that last one was a single comment about the narrow lid on the TSX and you expanded on that in grand style! It may be that I like to comment on design and style issues.... as I firmly believe most people want to drive a car they like to LOOK at... Of course, that never happens when I drive our disAstro...
The Mazda 3 is a real looker, little issues or not. The Mazda Millenia is also beautiful, almost as good-looking as the Vigor... ;-) The Mazda RX8 is amazing... And the 6... no question the 6 is the best-looking in its class... In fact, all current Mazdas are runway-killers...
Now the MPV may need to get a little bigger to compete with Sienna and Odyssey.
Anyone seen a 1972 Riviera lately? Now that's a big fish of a car design!
Pet
*flash of cool lines, silver*
I immediately did a double-take - silver RX8. LOVE that RX8 and hope to get one someday. The RX8 driver was looking at my car too lol (probably not with envy so much as "hey, another Mazda"
Jarrett
The baby was the main reason I got the hatch instead of the sedan. It's a lot more versatile for loading strollers, seats, etc.
Now, I have to run and change a diaper, but I want to start a discussion in between my periods of sleep deprivation...
For all the many satisfied Mazda 3 owners, what do you think is better Hatch or Sedan? I don't care if your new car better for looks, performance, cargo capacity, whatever. What do you like better?
In my opinion, the hatchback looks better and is more functional...especially since the Sport Graphics Package is included, at least in Canada. I'm not crazy yet about the traditional mesh on the base sedan...although with the sports grill, it does look good in gold...
Pet
As far as hatch vs. sedan, I think the sedan is the hands-down winner in appearance,but there is no question the sedan is far more utilitarian. And you get the sports package thrown in, which helps a lot. No matter... when there are problems, everyone is affected (some more than others, as howho explained).
A baby girl it is! And quite beautiful (but isn't that what all fathers think?)
Speaking of beautiful, I agree the sedan has a definite grace about it. In fact, I think it's better looking than the Mazda6. I do prefer the "edgier" front hood of the hatch though, and think the back is fantastic. I can't wait until spring arrives so I can wax her up (the car, not the child)..