Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles

1910111214

Comments

  • try removing idle air control motor @ cleaning off soot @ carbon both on IAC
    motor @ in throttle body.
  • My truck starts great, runs smooth and were still on the original trans. However, a few symptoms have cropped up.
    1) Service Engine Light comes on, then turns off. Diagnostic points to running lean. 2) When shifting into reverse, truck will stall whether it's cold or hot. 3) When stopping at a traffic light or stop sign, the rpms will drop then rebound quickly back to normal. Sometimes it will stall but then start up quickly. I had new plugs, wires, fuel filter and sending unit put on recently. The service garage said they will need to keep the truck for a couple of days to pinpoint what the problem is. Does anyone have any words of wisdom, what to check first before dropping off at the garage?
  • Good afternoon:

    I have a 2001 Kia Sephia 1.8L 4-cyl sedan. For the past 3 months, I have been having the following problems:

    RPM's are skyrocketing when I first start the car in the morning. (I don't actually have an RPM guage, but you can hear and feel it)

    The idle at stop signs/red lights is very rough.

    It stalled on me for the first time today moving at a slow speed in a parking lot.

    So far, we have changed (in the following order):

    Oil and Oil Filter
    Air Filter
    Spark Plugs/Wires
    Fuel Filter
    PCV Valve

    I'm stumped. Any brainstorming would be appreciated.

    Thanks so much!!!!
  • 2/25

    I have a 2002 Cavalier Z24 with just under 100,000 miles on it. I went out to move it last night, and it was misfiring on (at least) two cylinders. The engine was shaking pretty badly when I looked at it. It wants to stall anytime I'm not giving it gas. Also, when I go to pull out from a stop sign, it wants to stall. It seems that whenever i put a load on my engine, it wants to stall. For exaple, it stalled when I went to back into my driveway (which is on a VERY slight hill) as soon as i put it into reverse. My dad, who is a mechanic by trade, said I got water in/around the engine and it's grounding out the cylinders. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

    2/26 Update
    After pulling my car in the garage overnight to try and fix the problems i had earlier (refering to post above), the stalling seemed to go away. I simply turned the heater to about 72 in the garage, took off the cover that hold the module, etc. on the top of the motor, and aimed a fan on certain areas. Let's hope this fixed the stalling. My new problem is, I went to start it up after i put it all back together and as my idle was coming down after starting it, my "Check Gauges" light came on and my fuel gauge slowly dropped to below E. I have a full tank of gas in the car, no doubt about it. My dad now thinks the ECM is beginning to die, as all these things are quite random and never happened before. Any help or advice from ANYONE would be appreciated greatly. My email is BassMasterGoo@aol.com if you want to send me an email with ideas. Thank You! :confuse:
  • Update: I decided that it wasn't worth the cost of parts....got rid of the Kia and got a Chevy truck.

    Thanks anyway!!! hehe
  • I haven't had any serious problems with my car until yesterday, I had just pumped gas and left the station. When I began slowing down at the red light, my car stalled out on me. I pulled it over and started it right back up and didn't have any more problems but this morning when i went to school, I slowed down and it stalled again!!!! Can anyone help me with this, also, I've been having minor radiator problems, would this affect it????
  • hstandehstande Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 Buick Regal that the engine would just stall when you turned on the turn signal. Turn of turn signal and would restart. Then it started where the entire dash board lights start blinking and go crazy and the engine would lunge when you started it and then end of dieing. Any one have any ideas?
  • 01s80t601s80t6 Posts: 2
    My 2001 S80 T6 with 75k miles died again today, for the third time and it happened while going low speed, in a parking lot, when it hit a very small dip in the road (like those drainways they put in the parking lot to help the parking lot drain when it rains). Thinking back at the other times that it died. It always happened low speed hitting a small dip in the road, not coasting but slight pressue on the accelerator pedal to get out of the dip.

    When it dies, the car starts right up soon after.

    This is a serious issue because I almost got rear ended the last time this happened. All the lights come on the dash and the steering wheel locks up. I can't do anything but quickly press the hazzard and hope no one hits me.

    The warranty is with Carmax, it's been there twice. they couldn't duplicate the problem, they sent it to the local Volvo dealership on the second time around and couldn't duplicate it either.

    The other night I did high speed runs on the freeway, stop and go traffic, and I hit several other dips in the road at 25-30 MPH to try to duplicate it but it doesn't die out.

    No DTC codes come up and the car starts right after.

    VIN Check shows the ETM was upgraded:

    SERVICE CAMP 155 Credited 4/19/06 36004 Software control module
    30785453-9 ETM/ECM P UPGRADE 55221 5127 BOZZANI MOTORS

    I checked the battery connections in the trunk and all the grounds that I can reach under the hood. They are all tight. I also checked most of the connectors I could reach. Lot's of the wire loom is brittle and cracked when
    squeezed. I saw a thin pair of yellow and black wires bare, no wire loom. I could see it but could not reach or see where it begins or ends. Its above the transmisison housing. It seems like its coming from a larger pair of wires underneath the airbox. It's just odd that it's sitting there above the transmission housing. I checked the underhood fuse box. no blown fuses. I didn't check the trunk or interior fusebox for fuses though.

    Just for the heck of it. I looked to see where the fuel filter was. It's underneath the right side rocker panel. I don't think it's ever been changed. The quick connect has some play so I slid both connecting ends toward the filter. Should I change the fuel filter, It's cheap DIY fix and if it doesnt solve it, one less maintanence thing out of the way.

    What are the usual suspsects? Agian this is a serious safety issue and it happens intermittently and neither Carmax nor Volvo can duplicate it.

    Thanks
  • scubbsscubbs Posts: 1
    i have a buick 92 park ave ultra that died on me at the mall after being parked turned key over and nothing just dead lights turn on then dead no crank baught new battery and still nothing so i get it towed to my buddies shop and have everything from A to Z checked out all fuzes good ignition key is turned to on all lights on turn key to start (crank) nothing and no lights on so we find out that there is an engine mount brocken and caused the engine to sit on top of a wire coming from the firewall the wire was cringed and caused a short so we replaced the wire and ignition module and now the car starts fine with no problem except for the engine kill the car starts and idles for 2 sec then shuts off we have no idea on what could be causing this except for the factory antitheft witch might be turning it off the manual only explaines how to disarm the antitheft by using the factory radio witch i do not have anymore is there any ideas on how to disarm the factory antitheft with out radio or going to dealer or on what could be the problem here thanks
  • smtdrsmtdr Posts: 1
    Did you fine the problem to he turn signal problem?
    I have a 2003 buick regal doeing the same thing.
    When I put the turn signal on the engine stall.
    Dash board light blnk on and off when turn signal is on also at times.
    Please help doen't know the roblem.
  • steve1961steve1961 Posts: 6
    F150 FORD PICKUP 5.8 1998 IT IS LIKE IT HAS A MISS WHILE DRIVING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON WE HAD IT PLUG UP TO COM AT AUTO ZONE IT SAID PLUG AND COIL NEEDED AND REPLACED THE PLUGS AND COILS AND IT IS STILL DOING IT AND GETTING WORSE WITH THE MISS IT IT BUCKS AND JUMPS
    PLEASE HELP
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,279
    do you mean 5.4L or the 4.6L engine?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    sounds like you might have it scanned by a transmission shop that does free road test and diagnosis. have the tech watch live data not just pull codes. have him check specifically torque converter clutch operation the bucking could be a tcc failure just a thought hope it helps
  • hstandehstande Posts: 5
    My car is at the shop right now. They think it may be a short in the ignition switch or the ignition harness. I soon as they call be I will let you know.
  • hstandehstande Posts: 5
    Ok they got back with me the problem is the turn signal switch. The one the has your cruise/washer and turn signal all in one. So I should have my car back here any day.
  • steve1961steve1961 Posts: 6
    it has a 5.4L thank you for your help
  • steve1961steve1961 Posts: 6
    THANK YOU SO YOU THINK IT COULD TRANSMISSION RELATED INSTEAD OF ENGINE PLEASE REPLY BACK THANK YOU
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    this is a common complaint and we see it all the time especially in colorado with all the mountains and hills to climb torque converter clutch wears out and the vehicle bucks and stutters excessively especially going up hills..tcc slip ratio can be watched on live data on a snapon or mac mentor scanner most shops have some form of good scanner a code puller will not be able to watch live data therefore autozone or other supply shops wont be able to get the info you need thats why i recommend a trans shop that does free road tests and diagnosis
    Gene
  • joe390joe390 Posts: 7
    Car starts and runs, engine revs in park/neutral, but when driving/most noticeable on hills, can press the gas pedal through full range and no increase of power, until all the way to the floor, and power kicks in. Fuel pressure is within specs with key on and at idle. No DTC's(codes) are coming up. Compared throttle position sensor with new one(metered resistance through range and ok). Plugs/wires replaced and no change. There is tapping from engine(valves?), but am told it has been prior to problem. Next plan to do compression check. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Joe
  • I have replaced the Cam Shaft Sensor and the Catalytic Converter and it is still doing the same thing. The van starts fine and it idols fine, but after driving it about 15 miles it starts to buck, spit and then it stalls. No codes show on the tester and I have been told that the fuel system checks out. How can I fix my vehicle?
  • If you already check your fuel sistem and is workin properly, check for spark problems, probably you have some spark jumping on ground some where or the module is not working good. What happen is, the module is a set of "wires" inside and some times when the "wires" get hot inside it make like a short, and decrese the spark power.
    Also this 3.4L engine have 3 Spark Plugs close to the firewall that is a pain in the neck to replace it, check this out too.

    Check and let us know!
    Good lock!
  • bchee1bchee1 Posts: 2
    I have the same problem, saw suggestion that the panel board behind the steering column might have bad solder joints,

    Please email: bchee@yahoo.com if you see a fix., thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,279
    Please don't use e-mail if you have a good answer. Post it here so that all the members can take advantage of it!

    thanks!

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • glomarglomar Posts: 1
    Hi everyone

    I have a question, I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and lately when I stop at a light the car act like it wants to stall but doesn't. Can anyone tell me what it may be. I want to take it in but lately when shop see a women they just tell us anything and then wouldn't fix the real problem :sick: of shop owners......taking advantage of women
  • i have a 1998 mazda protege lx its got 157830 miles. anyway, i got this problem...check engine light has been on and off (due to disconnection of battery to reset computer "chiltons way" ) for 1 1/2 years and has not been running properly for 8 months cant even get it to accelerate but idles nice.(got a obd2 code reader,diagnosed and came up with this) i replaced the mass airflow sensor ( 297 dollars ) wich stoped the check engine light and yet it still idles fine but accelerates really poor it chugs and putters when i apply foot to gas pedal but when i baby it nice and slow from under the hood it accelerates descent ( when its throttled down very slow ) and no other code appears on the code reader anyone got any helpful ideas?
  • galka5galka5 Posts: 5
    After stopping on a traffic light, when light changes to green and I take my foot from the brake and put it on gas the car either shuts off or it feels like it doesn’t want to go on the first gear, no matter how hard I push the pedal. If it shuts off, it usually restarts in about 20 seconds. It happens few times a day, not all the time.
    Mechanics are unable to determine the problem. Throttle body was cleaned, Oxigen senser changed ("Service engine soon" light when on), gas filter changed.
    Can anybody help? Pleeeease.....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,279
    Anybody do a diagnostic on the MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow) in the throttle body?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • galka5galka5 Posts: 5
    I'm not sure, but i'll ask.
    Thank you.
  • 1996 mustang gt
    The car idles great in park but will not idle in drive, it keeps stalling out. Any ideas?
  • I forgot, no check engine light on either
Sign In or Register to comment.