Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
BMW 3-Series 2006
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I want to get a 4 seater hardtop in the next year or so, the only options I know of is the Eos, the volvo, the lexus and the BMW. Any other rumors of others?
The current 330i convertible has a typically equipped MSRP of right around $50K now... And, you can get up to $53K-$54K, if you go for all the toys... The 325i convertible can be had around $42K MSRP, but again, typically equipped is $45K...
But, I'm assuming that the new convertible will have the same engine choices as the new coupes... So, the two choices will be 328i/335i..
So, no absolute guess on prices, but start at least $2K higher than the numbers above.... and, don't be surprised if they are $4K-$5K higher...
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
I called the Service dept. The dealer sells and services Mercedes and BMW in the same building. The Mercedes uses Mobile-1. BMW uses BMW oil manufactured by castrol, syn 5W-30. They said the person who keyed in my service statement was in training and selected the wrong oil code for my statement. They assured me my service was done by a BMW Tech and the correct oil was used. Thanks for the feed back
Owner6
First, it's called Mobil 1.
Second, they still should be using 0W-40 Mobil 1 in the Mercedes; none of the other Mobil 1 grades have MB approval(right, Shipo?). In any event, I bring my own 0W-40 Mobil 1 to the dealer rather than use Castrol. Like Shipo, I was not impressed by the rusty brown film that the 5W-30 BMW Synthetic deposited on the dipstick and oil filler cap of my wife's X3. Unlike Shipo, I change the oil myself halfway between the Oil Service/Inspection intervals. Old habits die hard... :P
Correct.
"Like Shipo, I was not impressed by the rusty brown film that the 5W-30 BMW Synthetic deposited on the dipstick and oil filler cap..."
Correct. Also, the sludgy smell of the BMW/Castrol oil very much reminded me of the old parafin based Pennsylvania Grade Crude products (Quaker State, Pennzoil and Wolf's Head *among others*) of the 1970s (and beyond?).
"Unlike Shipo, I change the oil myself halfway between the Oil Service/Inspection intervals."
Well, almost. While under the "Free Maintenance" program I was inclined to change out the BMW/Castrol oil at 7,500 miles and put Mobil 1 in. Assuming I end up with a BMW that isn't "Free Maintenanced", I'm inclined to go with ~10,000 OCIs, using Mobil 1 0W-40 of course. Just to be on the safe side, I will probably have oil analysis performed from time to time just to make sure all is well with that plan.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I am the definition of abusive driver, i redline constantly, right after i start the car, redline in neutral, drive on the highway in 3rd gear, etc.
The engine is perfect, burn not a drop, and sounds as sweet as the day i bought it.
If you're going to keep the car, do mobil 1 twice a season.
If you care about the car in general, do it in any case.
dave
Best Regards,
Shipo
1) Mileage changes: Swapping between winter run-flats (Dunlop 17R225) and the summer tires, I noticed a drop of at least 1.5mpg on the wider tires, after correcting for driving habits. I know the rears especially are larger, but the change in mileage (about 7.5%) seems disproportionate to me. (Perhaps it's also the "stickiness" of the tire).
2) Road stability: swapping between the winter and summer tires noted above, I notice the rear wheels sometimes kick-out, or perform in a somewhat unstable fashion on highways. I attribute this to the wider rear tires catching grooves in the well-travelled highways around the this part of NY/CT (esp. I95 and the LIE) and/or the differential between the width front and rear tires as they hit these grooves.
Again, just wondering if anyone else has a similar experience.
1.Does the power difference from the 325 to the 330 make up for the difference in cost?
2. On the 330i, is there a big difference in ride with/without the sport package?
I will test drive them but maybe someone who owns either who has more miles logged will have a more informed opinion.
Thank you
2006 BMW 325i 4-Dr Sedan
6-speed manual transmission
Titanium Silver/Black Leather, Burl Walnut Wood Trim
Premium Package (ZPP)
MSRP is 34,790
Invoice is 32,065
What should be a good deal for this ? How much below invoice can I expect from a dealer. Would I get a better deal if I financed with the dealer ?
Thanks,
- Ashok
Power is only part of the $6,000 cost difference. The 330 contains as standard equipment some things that are costly options on the 325: upgraded sound system, adaptive zenon headlights, etc. The 330 also comes with larger tires and brakes, chrome trim, etc. If you would be inclined to load up a 325 with options, then the price difference between the 330 and 325 becomes much smaller (maybe $2,000 to $3,000). To me, power is a considerable factor in the fun to drive equation. On paper I was inclined to get the 325 and save some money. But after test driving both the 325 and the 330, I knew I had to pop for the 330. I'm glad I did.
Pretty frequent, depending on the monthly mileage.
-Paul
Best Regards,
Shipo
At anyrate, it's not a speed issue that interests me: it's how the car tracks. My revised theory is that the width difference between the front (235) and rear (255) must cause the car to track differently in the grooves typically found on highways.
Also, the low profile tires leave the expensive rims open to more frequent pothole damange, etc.
They do look nice, though.
I just bought a 6 MT 325xi with premium and cold weather pkg. Cost was 35,365, about $2000 under sticker. I am unimpressed with low end power. This is my first MT, but comparing it to the 330i that I drove, the 325 does not bring the same smile to my face. Similarly equipped, however, it was hard to justify the extra $6000. Also, there's a lot of engine mods that can be done to improve the output of the 3L engine of the 325 - and I'm sure more will be on their way. Afterall, the displacement of the 2 engines is the same. First gear is pretty short in my amatuer opinion. Shifting is otherwise nice and smooth. Braking is very good. Sound system is ok, but not stellar. I would, however, highly recommend the sport seats/sport package. I made a big mistake in not getting these - honestly, I can't even remember if all the models I drove had sport seats or not. The base seats suck - no thigh support. Lateral back support decent.
I'm not unhappy with my purchase, but there are some shortcomings that you notice only once you drive a car for a month. Hope this helps.
Of course, unlike most I added only a few options to my car - leather, comfort access, sport package, pdc - all things that would go on my 325i. So 3k for more fun and power = easy choice.
FWIW, I never thought for a minute that you were changing your oil too often or too little. Twice per year sounds just about right. :shades:
Sorry of I offended, that was not my intent.
Bset Regards,
Shipo
Sarcasm doesn't transport well via internet forum, does it?
I do like the summer/winter oil change because i have the right weight for the _season_ :)and because i have the car "in" for the tire swap in any case.
Thanks for the info. I was considering sport mainly for the nicer looking rims (imo) but I am unsure about the stiff ride. Do you know if the seats are a positive upgrade over the conventional seats. I am thinking of leasing and I have run the numbers. A 36 month lease 12k miles is less expensive than a similarly equipped 325 (better residual and MF). Seems like a no brainer unless I dont like the ride or replacing tires every year. I have a 2006 525 which I love (my first BMW) and the 3 series will replace an MB E320 which I have found I dont like driving anymore.
Thanks for the reply. Some will say it is a sin but I would opt for AT. I have owned other cars with MT and although shifting is fun, overall I would prefer not to. I live in a city in Florida, very seasonal, tons of traffic half the year. I also would not modify the performance aftermarket. But if I am looking for a sportier car, it seems as though the 330 with sports package is the way to go.
Drive a 330i with a stick before you make your decision. If you're a stick driving guy, you'll definitely appreciate it.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I enjoy driving a stick but my 5 year old will be in it occasionally and it is easier to concentrate on her and driving without having to shift. With that age, you never know what is going to happen. We have both children (2 & 5) in our 525 AT and there have been numerous occasions where a stick would not have been a good idea.
judging by the size of the wheels, this m3 is really packing some serious punch!! I'm hoping an awd version is available.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
You are spot on; the last thing the M3 needs is to dumbed down.
I have an E46 325i and have noticed the same thing. I went from the stock 205/55-16s to 225/45-17s and immediately lost about 2mpg. Wider, stickier tires definitely have more rolling resistance, and apparently the car feels it. I will reconfirm this when I switch back in the Fall, but I am sure that the mileage difference is mostly due to the tire change.
Of course the mileage penalty for more aggressive acceleration should be mitigated by the increased speed through the corners.. requiring me to accelerate less upon leaving the corner... not to mention the increased brake life.. :surprise:
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
AWD is a different animal. It is completely unnecessary on a car like the next M3. The AWD system adds weight (to an already somewhat porky M car), complexity (one more thing to break down the road), slows acceleration times, will cause the car to understeer at the limit, negatively affects handling, reduces fuel economy (hey at $3.45 a gallon for super even those who have $50k+ for an M3 are a little concerned). What is the benefit of AWD? Are you really going to drive a car with less than 5" of ground clearance in anything but a dusting of snow?
The M3 is a special car. Not for everybody. I'm not saying you have to track it to appreciate it because lord knows if I could get my hands on one it wouldn't see track time. The M3 is about balance, precise handling, amazing road feel, massive brakes, a finley tuned suspension, rear wheel drive, and of course "Officer are you sure you read the radar gun correctly?" blazing speed.
Who knows, Porsche which is supposed to be the purest of SPorts Car makers sold more tipronic (slushbox) 911 C4 Cabriolets (AWD) than any other model (except the Cayenne). The C4S Cabriolet Tiptronic is by far the heaviest of all the 911s.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
This is what I’ve always thought but the 335 comes in at 220lbs more than the 328.
I’m not sure where this weight gain has taken place (beefed up drive train?) but 3571lbs isn’t light.
Strangely enough, an A4 with the V6 (CVT – no manual unless you go Quattro) lists an identical 3571lbs.
This would make the 335 heaver than the
IS350 (3527-auto),
C-Class (3450),
S60(3393),
TL(3499),
CTS (3507)
G35(3472)
The “old” 330Ci weighed in at 3285 (286 lbs lighter) or you could say the new 335 is lighter ( 45lbs) than the 330Ci Convertible.
Maybe the gobs of low-end torque will make the weight gain a non-issue off the line but I’m not too sure about the corners.
macdad
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
I'd bet the engine gained about 50lb. Not that big of a deal considering the 80 lb-ft or torque gained.
The e90/92's got a serious case of bloat (length and weight measurements keep expanding).
A 1 or 2 series with the turbo engine, so 235i would be the answer: lighter weight, smaller dimensions, same power.
I was amazed by how much less quick a new 255hp 330 feels than my 189hp 328i. A little quicker, yes, but not much, and it felt less agile as well. However, a lot of that might go down to the car's more insulated nature. Yes, it is a better car overall, but not enough to get me back on the payment treadmill.
Question is, what else are ya gonna do? I think the boxster drives like a dream but it can be hard to get by with a 2-seater. We could nag BMW for a 1-series.
dave
As much as I'd like to see a low weight 2 series or even 1 series brought here, I doubt it will happen.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I think the “old” coupe and sedan were identical in weight 3275lbs so maybe the new sedan will be the same.
My main concern is that it is heavier than everything else (equal to A4) although my previous post I compared it to the G35 sedan not coupe (G35 coupe is heavier but still slightly under the new 3 coupe).
The Mazda RX-8, Mitsubishi Evo, and Subaru WRX STi are pretty much all there is in 3000 lb sports cars with a back seat.
If you truly want to enjoy driving again, I say abandon modern amenities and get an E30 or early 70's Alfa GTV.
You nailed it. That's one of the reasons I love my Club Sport. Yes, it could use a bit more power, but the overall package provides driving pleasure that a heavier sled just can't match. Best of all, it's just you and the car, responding to your inputs alone-with no silicon nannies waiting in the wings to save your bacon.