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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • whlpnywhlpny Posts: 10
    When I said in tank heaters- I mean that they are of 12 volt so they work when not plugged in.

    Bob
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    winter2: I am pretty sure the ball joints are NOT made by MOOG. These come from cheapest price bid contracts. One set of my Dakota's ball joints were made in Mexico. I had top and bottom and both sides replaced 5 times. When the dealer service manager broke them open they were dry and almost rusty. Replacing these are expensive, I am glad I had a service contract, and DCX never charged me a ded. fee. These ball joints that are "lifetime sealed" are really not good at all.

    Farout
  • Thanks for the info. Amsoil 15w40(90.8)and Rotella 5w40(90) but Mobil 1 5w40(102). Redline 15w40(97) is in between. If redline is a touch high, what does that say about mobil 1 5w40?
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    I have a 2005 CRD and after a camping trip I met another CRD owner at the lake and he told me of this site. I haven't seen any other CRD's on the road. I haven't gone back through this form (it huge), but has anyone changed out the Goodyear ST tires, mine are less than acceptable. I was thinking of replacing them with Falken Ziex S/TZ04 - P235/70SR16 load range C, Sears says they will fit. I don't plan on going off-roading I just bought it for the diesel engine, and it would tow my 18' camper. I have been getting 24 to 28.5 mpg without the trailer and 16.5 with. No addeditives and Mobil 1 0W-40 at the dealer. So far so good.
  • flightnurseflightnurse 35K feetPosts: 1,637
    Yes that is a 3.0 L diesel, MB has a 3.5L inline 6 that makes 300hp and gets roughly 20% better then the 2.7 we have now. I'm just wondering if we are going to get them...

    Tony
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Chevy already has engines made in China - the Equinox car-based SUV has a Chinese-made engine, and I believe it has since it was introduced. I don't know if any other GM models are using the same Chinese made engine. I think it's made in a GM plant in China, but I'm not sure.
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Bob, I live in the Lansing area and bought my CRD in January. I've had no starting problems in cold weather. Just wait for the glowplug light to turn off and it will start right up. Incidentally, I never once plugged mine in for the block heater.

    It is important to have winterized diesel, but every service station in Michigan (or any other northern state) that sells diesel will be selling winter diesel during the appropriate months. Only an issue if you fill up in Florida in January and somehow make it back here with their winter diesel in the tank. I believe I did have this issue on a recent trip to Colorado, where I bought diesel in the desert and then apparently had gelling up at 10,000 feet in the mountains, but that won't be an issue in Michigan.

    I've heard of in-tank heaters for Class 8 semis so that they can avoid the Florida fuel in northern winter issue that I just described. I'm not sure how common it is for them; you can also avoid the problem with fuel additives that don't cost very much.

    If you do buy a CRD, I recommend Meijer premium diesel, which is one of the best brands I've found to have my CRD running happily. It also tends to be among the cheapest. BPAmoco premium diesel also works great but the only station with it that I know if is 60 miles from where I live.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Whlpny.... Let see the CCV valve is on the top of the engine and it have one hose that goes to the air intake where the turbo is. on that hose is where you install the oil catcher. The name is Proven 200 and it cost me $160.00 with a replacement filter. You do not need the replacement, you can wash the filter with mineral spirit and it will be ok. To see the Proven 200 go to thread #1285 and 1387. On 1387 go to purchase and you will see the price of $143.00 also if you go to search put ccv and you will learn all about the oil catcher. Do it it is a cheap insurance VW, Sprinter,BMW, all use it some other companies have their brand but the end result is the same.
  • "We have lost several jobs due to thier cheaper pricing, the quality wasn't there, and we have brought some of that work back in. The safety factor does play a major role in the suspension components and ..."

    Nothing new, ask us old timers from the rust belt. Screw and bolt companies succumbing to inferior products with false rockwell numbers. Wire nails made from soft as lead "steel" that bent if you looked at them. And calls for the end to unions and protection of professional workers earning a decent wage. You asked for your cheap parts and we got them. End users know what they are buying cheap and passing it on. But glad to hear you got some of your business back and I hope it continues for all of us.

    As I said months ago, I will pay for quality, I will pay so that someone earns a fair wage. We paid enough for our jeep. No, we didn't get $8,000 off sticker. Tells you how much money(quality?) is in the product.

    Yes, it is the opinion of some/many that some auto workers have been living high on the hog even when the lines are down. DCX was the first? to squeeze the suppliers and therein was it also for visteon(ford) and delphi(gm) and how many unknown suppliers.
  • whlpnywhlpny Posts: 10
    Zachinmi- I am up north of you on M-21- town of Pewamo. I just started to watch where the diesel pumps are this week as I'm getting into buying one of these. We have a Meijer here in Ionia so I should be set. There is a BP in Portland where I work- they have diesel. Also a Speedway- any comments on them? Looks like I won't have to chase for it.
    I have found a Sport with tow pkg down by Detroit- now I need to get there and drive it. Are you happy with yours in all other aspects?
    BallJoints again-- Mexico is a major player in the field here- when I said overseas- I shoulda said out-of country. We have a sister plant in Mexico that is stealing work from us- its scary. They use it as a constant threat. Problem with Mexico right now is they aren't up to speed with technology- but are gaining fast. One job we got back was one they couldn't produce with quality.
    Has anybody been able to see any kind of name on the ball joint caps- or lettering? All of out products are date coded and and stamped with the "TRW" logo. Lemforder just went out of business not too long ago - they were heavy in the auto end of the joint business. I'm wondering if it was some of thier junk. Would really like to know who made them!

    Bob
  • anomiousanomious Posts: 170
    Hi! Back in the forum somewhere is a tire size calculator. The 245-70-16 is the closest size to stock diameter. The speedo will be off 0.7% I replaced my ST cruds with Bridgestone REVO's, I don't go off road much but we do get snow. Other guys have used Bridgestine Alanza's a top rated highway tire! Tire Rack has a comparison chart which will interest you..
    Anyone interested in some ST's? :D

    Best of luck! LK
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Fuel: I have used Speedway several times with no problems. However, Meijer is usually the same price or cheaper, and the CRD seems happier (smoother and quieter) on Meijer diesel. BP - see if they are selling "premium diesel". If they are, they will advertise it. BP premium diesel seems great, but some stations may be selling just regular diesel the same as you'd get at any other brand of station. I like Meijer because, being centrally controlled, you can expect the same fuel at all their stations. I also keep wishing Meijer would introduce B20 fuel to the local stations, which they currently offer in AA and Ypsilanti only.

    The CRD - I have a Sport with towing package. I am fairly happy with it, but not 100%. I occasionally have the shuddering problem, which is a major nuisance. It seems to be fuel related and rarely if ever occurs running on Meijer diesel, but I don't know for sure what causes it (does anyone???). I get the EPA rated mileage or slightly better and am pretty happy with my gas mileage. I have not had any mechanical problems, but the EGR issue makes me nervous. I bought the CRD after having a Civic Hybrid so I was used to a small car with high mpg. I now sometimes wish I had bought something even bigger, but that has nothing to do with the diesel engine or the Liberty itself. The backseat is small for adults and my wife dislikes the grab bar in the passenger side - she sometimes hits her knee on it. I also don't do any serious offroading, so while the advanced 4wd makes it great in the snow, it's somewhat wasted capability for me (it is pretty much unstoppable in bad weather, if that's important to you). I will say that build quality seems very good and I find there is not much gap in usefulness or feeling of quality between my Liberty and what I was used to with two Hondas (04 Hybrid and 01 Accord) before it. That's partly because the particular Accord that I owned was one of the few Hondas made that can and should be squeezed into a refreshing summertime beverage normally served cold, if you get my drift. Basically, if a Liberty is a good choice for you, I would definitely get the CRD instead of the gas version.
  • Ball Joints again. Keep kicking their butts with quality. A service writer retorted, when I said I couldn't wait for kyb's and new MOOG K3199's, that the factory replacements are coming in MOOG boxes. I never knew they rebagded others' production for factory replacement parts. Not a dcx person, I now know about their Value Line vs Premium parts just like ford parts from a dealer (as well as the ford greenleaf? scandal).
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    The tie rod ends were made by TRW. When I worked for Powers and Sons LLC, we designed and made tie rod ends (TRE) for Ford and Chrysler (DCX). We were bidding on the Liberty ends but lost them to TRW. I designed tie rod ends for Ford Passenger cars and a friend designed for DCX products.

    I read in one of the forms that someone was going to install zerks into the ends. That is a very bad idea. The triboliogy between the ball's finish, bearing and special grease is very complex and grease one can get a wally world will not work. There are only two company in the world that make the grease used and it was designed for that application, its very expensive. We placed 4.5 to 7.75 grams of grease in a TRE. The boot is what protects the joint, take care of these. The water will cause the grease to fail and the corrode the ball stud damaging the bearing, thus failure.

    We also had a plant in Mexico but only did assembly there, they did a good job.
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    Thanks! I will look at these!!!

    Just FYI The Falken Ziex S/TZ04 - P235/70SR16 load range C is 29.1 inches in diameter the Goodyear ST is 29.3.
  • whlpnywhlpny Posts: 10
    I would have to assume that the ends have come from a plant in Indiana as they are the source for our passenger car ends.
    I am the one who posted on drilling and zerting them. I have access to the grease. And yes it is some heavy duty stuff. I just seen a schematic on a forum somewhere -it looks like it may be tuff to drill the lowers without dissassembling the vehicle though........
    Mexico is assembly only for us now also- cheap labor.

    Bob
  • whlpnywhlpny Posts: 10
    Sounds like Miejer may be best. Glad to hear you are fairly happy with the Sport. My kids rode in one to Cedar Point- they said it was kinda tight in the back.I definatly need 4x4 . I have a 125 bushell gravity wagon that I will need to move in the winter as we heat our house with a corn burner. I think it is heavy enough to offset the wagon when full so I should be ok. I'm sure it will be a kinda lost feeling not having a heavy truck for a while.
  • anomiousanomious Posts: 170
    http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

    The 245-70-16 are a closer match than the 235's. I have them on my KJ, good clearance

    Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference
    225/75-16 6.6in 14.6in 29.3in 92.0in 689 0.0%
    245/70-16 6.8in 14.8in 29.5in 92.7in 684 0.7%

    Cheers! LK
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Zoomy2: I put on the GoodYear Silent armor 245 70 16 and they fit just perfect! These tires are amazing and with almost 16400 on the CRD these tires are super good, I encourage you to at least look at these tires. One word of caution is that wider tires I am positive take some MPG off. Something to consider. After reading all the oil issues and checking it out with V M Motori I have switches to Rotella 5-40w much better than mobil 1 0-40.Shell Rotella is CJ1 4 rated which is the best rating, which Mobil does not list as of yet. Good driving.

    Farout
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    The Jeep CRD is dramatically different from a heavy truck (I also have a Ram 2500). It is far more maneuverable and quieter and rides a lot better. But it is a smaller vehicle, at least for cargo carrying. All depends what you need! I have not tried towing with the CRD but it seems pretty stout and I would think a 3000lb trailer would not be a problem. I know it's rated for 5000lb towing but just like any other vehicle, even a heavy truck, I would hesitate to get really close to the rated limit. Of course once or a twice a year at 4900lbs should be ok.
  • bpedersbpeders Posts: 1
    I lost my CRD for over 30 days to the dealers trying to track down a 'shuddering' problem which occured at low speeds/RPMs and eventually became strong enough to stall the engine at times. They replaced EGR, torque converter, to no avail. Finally a Chrysler tech suggested flushing the tranny cooler (a fix on a similar problem for a CRD in Oregon). It fixed the shuddering problem. It might be a cheap fix for your troubles.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Hi farout,
    I just checked my ball joints for play. I have about 0.3mm on the driver side and no play on the passenger side. The manual says 1.5mm is the maximum we should accept. The skirts protecting the spheres are still soft and there is no apparent rust or emulsion visible there. I think the heat reflecting fins do a good job. If we were to go for MOOG ball joints, where would the grease nipple be fitted? It's already very hard to get our fingers in there.

    To answer your question about life expectancy of this truck, I would have to refer to a weak element and have found none so far.

    While rotating my BFGs I measured disc brakes thickness: mine are now at 26.7 and 26.8 mm within the range of 28 when new and 26 when due for a change. This means I should be getting close to 70,000 miles from the original discs and pads. This is a sign of excellence. :shades:

    Being alredy dirty and under the truck, I checked again the reference of my tranny: it's labelled RFE 462. It has the current ratios of the 545 RFE according to specs. Is it different to what you have? You can see the sticker by leaning below the driver's door. I read this tranny was a bit more "beefy" than the 545. Is it really?

    Another thing about life expectancy: the body has antirust galvanic protection and the truck is fully coated underneath with a black wax or polymer. I hit a few rocks here and there but there is no sign of damage whatsoever.

    I pulled out the airfilter and noticed the folds were black, as usual, but this time they were greasy. My airbox intake port is located above the right hand side headlight, in the crack where the hood curves around the headlight. Where could this oil come from? From outside the body of the truck would be greasy as well, could be from a retrodiffusion of oil mist via the ccv.

    A last observation is the intercooler inlet hose seems to remain cleaner (no oil swetting or accumulating there) during summer; difficult to understand when using the same oil all year round. It may also be oil condensing there because of the cold environment during winter and evaporating because of hot summer air. Perhaps crd owners from Alaska and Florida could input on this.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    I pulled out the air filter and noticed the folds were black, as usual, but this time they were greasy.

    It is difficult to understand because you are over thinking it, Caribou1. My air filter was like yours at the first change - black and partly oily. Also, I had a light dusting of oily soot around and on the front of the engine.

    I cleaned and tightened the oil covered intercooler hoses and installed them with the clamps much tighter. I still have oil seeping at the margin between the hose and the intercooler inlet. The oil migrates down the bottom of the hose and eventually up the sides, but it starts at the margin. At 23k miles my air cleaner is still white with a little road dust and there is no new soot on the front of the engine.

    I believe you have a pin hole leak (under high boost) somewhere around the front of the intercooler hose and it is blowing soot/crankcase fumes where it can get into your air cleaner. True the air pick up is out front but there is the crack you mention and the drain holes in the bottom of the air box.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Hi siberia,
    I've had several other diesels and still have a Toyota diesel as second car. I usually vacuum clean my air filters but this time it was useless. Concerning tightening of my hose clamps you could be right. When I sneeked under the hood for the first time I noticed the clamps were so tight that one of the connection tubes that fits inside the hose was shaped like a D. I will check again.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    ASTM D-445 is about oil flow through a tube at a given temperature measured in square mm per second. With Mobil being the highest followed by RedLine, I am guessing that as the temperature falls, the slower the flow rate. So one can surmise that Mobil 5W-40 will probably have more trouble flowing at colder temps than the others.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Farout,

    When I purchased/took delivery of my CRD, I asked if it was possible to put zerk fittings in the ball joints and tie rod ends. The tech said such was not possible and that the units were sealed. I have looked at all of the joints and the boots are translucent. I can see a level of grease in all of them. That level is about 2/3 full (best guess).

    If I ever need to replace these parts, I will buy the good stuff and have the extended warranty pay for the labor, if such is possible. I asked the tech why they removed the zerk fittings and his response was rather surprising to me. He stated "EPA rules". Leaking grease is considered an environmental hazard.

    As to the front end on my 1993 Dakota, I never replaced a single ball joint or tie rod end as they came with zerk fittings and I lubricated them every 5K miles with a high quality synthetic grease from Amsoil. Had the ball joints checked at 92K and the were tight like new. Practically no play. The shop was mounting some tires I had mail ordered. They had several of their techs check and they were impressed. They told me ball joints generally fail around 60K on Dakotas' of my vintage. They all attributed the condition of these components to good care and the grease.
  • I am trying to find information on where to buy new fuel filters and how to change on a 2006 CRD. Can it be changed without pulling the assembly off the firewall? I have not been able to find any source of information on how big a deal it is to change them. I saw references to postings that outlined how to change it, but could not find them.
  • You will read a lot of ideas. The best advice I got was from retmil46(who came here to help and got bashed by ...)your best help will be a strap filter wrench. I got underneath with a piece of clear hose and attached it to the drain (to draw some diesel off-into an oil drain pan, bottle,whatever). Remove the electrical connectors and unscrew the filter while it is attached. No need to remove the fuel lines. It was a non-event. Read about the bleeder screw and pump. Hose and container to catch the diesel from the bleeder screw until no air comes out. I bought a filter and a new sensor from the dealer (not at full retail).
  • Only ball joints ever was that old cadillac that had gone around the odometer a few times. Greasing the front end with syn mobil 1 had me call them about their red carrier oil leaking all over the place. Next brand of syn grease step up please.

    I'm glad you are smart enough to know I didn't research the astm's about oil. Should we call you our winter2 the oilguy. I believe an engineer told me that if we go to Canada this winter that we would have to plug the block heater in - .

    Translucent ball joint doughnuts? All I know from is black rubber. Dealer held firm on free warranty work and factory replacement parts. The new lower ball joints are leaking carrier oil? that is being absorbed by the cast iron. Caribou1's ball joint picture showed doughnuts with a slight bulge compared to ours. I always suspected our lbj's.

    Researched the generals products based on your advice and farout about the failings of gm products I mentioned. (I previewed a post and deleted a reference to tell Dr. Z to get back behind the Rhine some time back). We are hoping that Wagner at GM can keep that corporate raider out and believe if they get to complete the turnaroud at gm we will have to look no further.

    We got a free subscription to Petersen's and in this latest issue of the inbox they defend the push rod engine.
    Some people (even synlubes?) get 18-24 on their diesel. Why is a push rod so bad.

    Thank you winter2 for all the posts.
  • beerw1beerw1 Posts: 2
    Jeep Liberty CRD has been discontinued for 2007 due to the new emissions standards. I read this on the internet and I was hoping it was not true. I called the Jeep dealer and it was confirmed. I just bought mine in Feb. of this year. I feel betrayed. I love the vehicle but I will never buy another Jeep after this.
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