Jeep Liberty Diesel

unclebob9

The easiest way is to just downshift and from a near stop, floor-it as you are going up the on ramp to the freeway ( do not over rev), watch for smoke coming out the eahaust, if it is nasty black, keep doing it until it clears up.
What you really need is a Provent system, cost between $160 & $200, not hard to install, you will need to make a little bracket to mount it on. (which usually places it in front of the computer). What is does is collects all the sludge that clogs up your egr valve and can cause turbo failure.
If you plan on keeping your CRD, it is a cheap investment.
I love my 2006 crd, it is really a very good little car. What happened is when they created the American version they did things to satisfy smog requirements that were not good for the engine. Also Cars in the 2000 - 2009 in general were often lemons due to the lack of quality control thourghout the auto industry.
I highly encourage everyone who owns a CRD to check out the "LostJeeps" forum. The information I learned there I cannot say enough positive things about. I have had my 2006 crd for 10 months now, I researched it before I bought it, and it is not a car for the average person. But for one who likes to tinker it has tons of potential. Here are the "Must Do's" from my point of view:
1. Provent system
2. In tank Fuel pump/sending unit (from a 2002-2006 Dodge diesel truck).
Our jeeps were designed to have this but it was cut out to save a few $$.
3. Synthetic oil everywhere.
Not necessary but nice to have:
1. AFE dry high flow drop in air filter.
2. GRD (Green Diesel) Eco Tune, ( $450 they recallabrate your computer for better MPG and power).
3. Transgo transmission shift kit ($40), easy to install.

Bob

winter2

So far things are still in limbo. The dealer pulled the rug out from under me. They figured wrong when they pulled the engine and acted like they were not expecting a disaster. So as far as I am concerned, they knew what they would find.

They never pulled the head so I am wondering if the cylinder liner failed. Unfortunately, I got there too late to pull the head myself. Would have been interesting to see what I would have found.

My wife and I are still working on our letter to Sergio and making sure that the wording will have him spitting teeth. I am also working on a letter to the Florida Consumer (State) agency. I hope to have this out by the end of this week.

I am so disgusted with the situation that I really do not want the Jeep back. I just want blue book value before it blew up plus money for expenses incurred to get home. As to buying another Chrysler product, not for a long time if ever again.

This week, the engine oil goes out for analysis to an independent lab. I will post the findings when I get the results.

unclebob9

I am in Ca. our local TV news station has something they call "7 on your side". If you get cheated or ignorred by a large Company they will take them on for free and put them all over the news IF they are in the wrong and do not make it right.
You may have something similiar in your area?
I ran into a problem with my Cable provider where they gave me a service I had cancelled and billed me for it for over a year (auto payment and I was just not paying attention to it). Anyway they refused to refund me and the supervisor I talked to, would not let me go past him.
Within 2 weeks of reproting it to "7 on your side" I got a refund and an apology from Comcast.
Just a thought: Bob

farout

I found a couple of CRD's on eBayMotors. I sent a question to one seller in Califonia, and asked if it had the torque converter replaced and engine detunned. His reply was all tsb's had been done. He sent me a second reply and said how wonderful th MPG were and really gave a conviencing talk. I was shure he had no clue what I was asking. There are more CRD's in calif. wonder if these too are having problems.

I am so glad Chrysler bought my Green Beast back. I am really sorry you have has the experience you have.

farout

caribou1

Hi farout,
Instead of talking horsepower we talk radars and fuel at 1.5 Euro per liter meaning 1.5 (Eur) times 4 (L>Gal) times 1.4 for the currency. Put together you're over $8 per gal :sick:
My MY2003 CRD is still in good shape, runs on noisy unbeatable and indestructible BFGs, gives poor mileage but without any need of maintenance. I've had ZERO problem and hope to keep it 12 to 15 years if my health allows me to get there.
I will not buy another common rail diesel because of the multiple failures that happened to close friends in the recent months (particle filter clogging, premature injector pump wear, unrepairable components) without forgetting that we cannot find technical literature for recent vehicles.
I'm extremely happy and well documented with my Harley, so I forget the rest :shades:

willysjeep

Caribou wrote: "I will not buy another common rail diesel because of the multiple failures that happened to close friends in the recent months (particle filter clogging, premature injector pump wear, unrepairable components) without forgetting that we cannot find technical literature for recent vehicles. "

I bought my CRD new in 2005. Caribou has offered excellent advice regarding this vehicle. My CRD now is over 70,000 miles and is out of warranty. At the present time, it is running well. I had EGR problems, injector problems and wiring chewed by mice in my garage. I have a problem where the cigarette lighter circuit draws about 56 milliamps with nothing plugged in. Oh yeh, I replaced the absolutely lousy tires that came with the vehicle.

I am pondering whether I should replace the vehicle. I was surprised to see the statement by Caribou. He is wise in the way of the CRD. His statement may help me make my decision. I still like the Jeep. My brother has a 2 wheel drive Ford Escape and loves it. Maybe, it's time to trade the black Liberty in for a new Tin Lizzy.

farout

Just for the heck of it I would say it's time to sell or trade it while it still running good. I had a 2005 Liberty CRD. It had so many, many, many, any how it had a lot of big problems. Chrysler bought it back. Here in the mid west most Chrysler Jeep dealers know these CRD's are a risk to put on the lot and they take them to the auction. These CRD engines are basicly good, but add an EGR and de-tune the engine and they are a big risk to who ever owns it.

Hope this helps a little.

farout

nick109

The transaxle was a nightmare with constant problems. The motor locked up at 100K miles and had to be rebuilt. The recall repair made the vehicle run terrible. Parts of the body were repainted due to poor manufacturing. Transmission problems. Worst of all (if thats possible) Jeep only had 1 mechanic trained (ha ha ha) to repair the vehicle in two different dealerships. BIG BIG MISTAKE TO BUY THIS or any jeep!!!!!!!! When I finally sold it I got $4000 after 3 years of headaches

mdamick

I have 219000 on mine now-runs pretty good. Had GDE do the engine and trans tunes which upped the mileage 15% and eliminated the EGR issue.
Have had a few issues recently (worn through brake line, bad idler pulley, bad u-joint) but I still like it.

ppilot71

I imported my fathers 2005 Jeep Liberty Diesel to Argentina, and I need to find the engine serial number. I have looked as much as I can without disassembling the engine. I have not bee able to find it. Does anybody know where the 2.8L Turbo Diesel engine has the engine serial number engraved? Without it I cannot register the vehicle in Argentina, or I will have to have a number engraved (expensive, but do-able) If anyone knows.... please let me know.
Thanks

mdamick

According to the service manual:
The identification stamp for the 2.8L is located on
the left side of the engine block, above the starter.
The engine code label is located on the front timing
cover and is the same as the engine I.D. and serial
number. :shades:

kyfdx

mdamick

Great info! Thanks!

caribou1

Hi ppilot71,
My little CRD also has the VIN engraved underneath the lower foot path protective cover of the passenger door :sick:
Last week, if the safety inspector had not found it for the first time in 8 years, I was no longer allowed to drive it.
Sometimes I wonder what we would become without regulations :confuse:

mdamick

We would become FREE. A concept that is becoming very rare on this planet. :mad:

stever

Yeah, free to get crashed into by people not properly registering or maintaining their vehicles. It's not that I don't trust you, but no thanks. :P

Let's stick to Liberty CRD talk please.

desmo750ss

I have a 2005 CRD with absolutely no mods to it. Had many CRD issues, 2 turbos, one computer, , 2 mass flow sensors, 2 EGR (once cleaned, second time replaced) and the transmission has been in 4 times at the dealer with multiple problems. I am now out of warranty and would like to know all the "life-prolonging" mods that I can do to it. I am thinking of the add-on micron oil filter, and I heard of a EGR bypass hose? Anything available for the transmission? Let me know what mods this forum suggests for longer life expectancy of the motor and tranny. Oh, yeah AC pump, tires, brakes, rotors, fan resistor issues don't count as those are normal issues with any car! I am only worried about the engine and transmission. This series of Liberty models, (without going Jeepster) is the last of the good SUV off-roaders. The new Jeep Liberty has lost its off-road capability from basic geometry and clearance changes to the model. I can't stand AWD, and Jeep's 4WD I have found to be the best for snow and fire-trails.

fust

MY LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS STOP WORKING, CHECKED BULBS , FUSES, HAS ANYONE HAD SIMULAR PROBLEM AND POSSIBLE REPAIR, ANY HELP APPRECIATED.

mdamick

Just answering the question posted :P :P :P

desmo750ss

Hello,
What is the GDE ecotune and where do I get one?. Also, what are the options for the EGR? I want to help my engine live longer and with less maintenance!.
Thanks
Hans
2005 CRD 65Kmiles (still at the dealer fixing transmission)

caribou1

Hi all,
I finally took everything off the top of the engine to inspect and discover what caused the large stains my truck leaves on the asphalt after a sustained effort :surprise:
The original ccv valve is a robust 2" plastic disc kept closed by a light spring. It can not leak outside the engine and will retain a minimal overpressure in the crankcase until vacuum is applied by the turbo intake.
The Provent 200 that I never installed separates the oil by capillary effect (filter media). As of today, I can't evaluate its beneficial effect on my 'de-rated' 150 HP engine.

The stains under the truck were produced by a diesel fuel pond accumulating on top of the engine, where the injectors penetrate into the head. This 'fuel pond' emptied itself slowly when the truck was parked and kept the engine and tranny shining clean
The fuel lines feeding the 4 injectors were loose on the injectors, but not on the common rail. I used a flat 17mm crowfoot / flare wrench to slacken then torque the 8 nuts to approx 20N.M after removing the waste fuel rubber recuperation tube held by a wire spring clip above each injector. This took care of the fuel smell and stains; my fingernails took 5 days to recover their normal aspect

unclebob9

GRD or Green Diesel engineering eco tune. I think they have 3 levels of tuning. The Eco Tune is the lowest power and torque, but it is the one to get unless you have upgraded to a heavy duty torque convertor. I have the eco tune. www.greendieselengineering.com ($450, you send them your computer they program it and return it, if later you want to up-grade to a more powerful tune it is $50)
The EGR is a smog control device that gums up the engine. A provent 200 Is a must have, ($160), many people have made their own versions very cheaply, I got one on EBAY for a decent price and it is a clean set-up as compared to the home made versions and I plan on keeping my jeep many years, so, I sprang for it.
The Provent traps all the gunk that will eventually cause your turbo to fail. It also keeps your EGR valve clean.
Without the GRD tune, a Provent will trigger a check engine light, part of the GRD tune tells the computer to ignore the EGR yet keeps all the other protective functions. So, no check engine light on all the time.
The GRD did give me noticably more power, however I did not notice any significant increase in MPG as they claim, my overhead MPG reading is 4 MPG too high and my speedometer is 4MPH fast. In reality I get 23-24 MPG in town and 28-30 on the freeway. With the best MPG at around 70-73 MPH.
If you do not have to deal with Smog inspections, Stan in CA. did this Air filter modification using a Fram CA 8038 filter (I am in the process of doing this to mine.) http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/airintake3.jpg

ppilot71

FOUND IT!!!! The manufacturere says right side of engine, above starter.... YEAH RIGHT!!!! You need to dissasemble 1/2 the engine to see it. Easier, a mechanic here in Argentina fooound it under rust, on the lower right forward part of the engine At the bottom of the engine block where the oil pan starts. Wire brush away rust and number should be visible. Thanks for all the help.

storageguy

Thank you for the excellent description and advice. I searched Ebay for "Provident 200" and found 3 different parts described. Is it the Mann Proivdent 200" Kit? My light comes on an off, often will go out when I add a diesel fuel conditiner. Even with the light on the vehicle seems to ru perfect. Any more info you can supply would be great

farout

Hello caribou1 ! This is old "farout" the former sufferer of the "Green Beast" I try and check out this crd fourm every once and a while. So far as I can tell you seem to be the number one on keeping your CRD going by your self. I could never have done it. I am disabled and limited on doing the mechanical stuff. However I wish I were able.

Correct me but it seem that the CRD's in the US are so heavy with this smog equipment, and it really slows them down and repair is more often because of it.

My Chrysler Pacifica has 176,025 kilometers on it. I checked it on km because it has a electronic button that changes mph into kmph. I expect by this weekends it will have 110,000 on it. We put a lot of miles on going back and forth to the VA hospital clinics. I am soooo glad we got the LifeTime Powertrain warranty with the Pac. We also bought the LifeTime extended warranty as well. We have had a couple of problems, but mothing super major.

With Fiat it seems the vehicles are looking much better and they have improved a lot. the new 3.6 V-6 is a real fast engine, how well it is only time will tell.

I will say by and be looking for you from time to time.

farout

unclebob9

Stan has posted great installation instructions for a Provent 200:

http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/provent/

Here is the EBAY listing you want:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MANN-FILTER-Provent-200-Filter-Assembly-3931070550-/2807- 39901511?pt=BI_Pumps&hash=item415d66f047

That is a decent price.

You either have to live with the light of spring $450 for the GRD eco tune.
I am in the process of puttig on a much larger air filter and called GRD because of concerms of disconnecting the sensors in my air filter housing.
They said no problem, their tune has already eliminated them from the check engine light circuts.

Best of luck: Bob

caribou1

Hi farout,
Yes, my de-rated CRD is doing rather well in performance and budget wise.

According to past experience it's clearly the pollution / emission control system built around the engine that is unreliable, not the engine

I have around 180,000 Km on the odometer:
- I change oil and oil filter every 25,000 Km without refilling during this period,
- fuel filter every 50,000 Km (Parker Racor R20S),
- air filter is a washable K&N,
- original tires lasted 36,000 Km and were replaced by the first set of BFGs until I reached 120,000 Km. I replaced them 'prematurely' because it was the beginning of the cold season.
I'm on my second set of BFGs with only 60,000 Km on them. I will replace them next spring because they get noisy after a few years (3-4?) and they loose elasticity. On this last set of tires I have not rotated all 4 intentionally to see where the wear came from: it's the front left tire that wears inside :surprise:

I keep the 4WD on all the time to avoid peeling rubber when cornering and during rapid starts. I added a pint of cooling liquid plus half a cup of power steering fluid in 8 years.

But I never understood why there was so much mud on my fenders and doors :confuse:

rossignol292

Wrong.

The provent alone will not trigger a check engine light. The provent simply "filters" the oily mist out of the crankcase blow-by gases before returning it to the air intake. Even if you were to vent the gases to the atmosphere, you wouldn't trigger a check engine light.

The check engine light most people talk about with CRDs concerns the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. Under certain circumstances, the EGR substitutes air coming in from the turbo with exhaust. This is good for the environment, but it covers sensors in a layer of soot. The easiest way to turn off the EGR is by simply unplugging the MAF sensor. The only drawback to this method is that it will cause a check engine light. The Green Diesel Engineering (GDE) tunes will eliminate (or almost eliminate) the EGR, without triggering a check engine light.

rossignol292

Additionally, the "gunk" you speak of is only oil. This will not cause your turbo to fail. There are 2 problems associated with the oily mist, and neither involve turbo failure. First, the original hoses that run from the turbo to the intercooler, and from the intercooler to the intake manifold, are not oil resistant. The oily mist makes these hose deteriorate and fail quickly. The new OEM hoses from jeep are oil resistant. You can also buy a hose kit from Samco that will stand up to the oil. Second, the oily mist clogs sensors (mainly the MAP sensor). Combining an oily mist with a bunch of soot from the EGR makes for quite the mess inside your intake.

70-73mpg is a complete lie. It's simply not possibly to get that kind of mileage out of this vehicle without running a grease setup.

For subsequent readers: When "unclebob9" says GRD, he means GDE (Green Diesel Engineering). They do great work, but even they can't squeeze anything over 40mpg out of a CRD. I would take anything "unclebob9" says with a grain of salt. Anyone who knows enough to get a GDE tune would know enough to at least get the acronym correct.

dnola

Even the casual reader could see that unclebob9 clearly stated 70-73mph, not mpg. Read the post better before you choose to criticize what you don't understand.

rossignol292

My bad. Apparently my sub-casual reading ability didn't pick up on that.

poppie6473

I own a 2006 CRD 4x4 Liberty and, rather than the Provent I changed the airbox to a V-6 airbox from my 2007 gas Liberty and, re-routed the oily hose to the side of the box. It filters and, lets the fumes get re-entered without any mess. The other line goes in right by the turbo intake is now blocked off and, unused. The Jeep runs great and, stays clean, the small amount of oil in the airbox is collected in a residual container and, I dump it at oil change. I am soon to go for the GDE Full Torque and, stage 2 turbo upgrades as well as the TCM and, HD Torque Converter. I can hardly wait to get this all done. My MPG HWY is 26-28 right now but, I think thats due alot to the Cat Back Magnaflow 2.5 system I fixed for it.

unclebob9

sounds like a neat substitute for the Provent, can you post a pic?

libertylooms

My 2005 was stopping on the highway until I diagnosed the problem as a leak in the fuel filter mounting setup. Stock system has a doughnut shaped heater set between the filter and filter head. My fix: replace the filter mount AND filter with a Caterpillar brand. No problems since... AND I buy the Davidson brand filter for only $8 (yes, eight dollars). ROI in about 2 years .

Note: when using the Caterpillar brand mount, there's no room for the hand pump. You must place a metal blank over the pump mounting spot, but before you do, hand grind a small channel between the input and output holes to allow fuel flow. I used a Dremel tool.

I had a pump placed in my tank, so I'm not dependent on the hand pump when I change filters.

Hope this helps someone out there.

jim66wright

I am a new member and searched on the forum for this issue, but was unsuccessful.
If you know of a thread please let me know.
I just bought a 2005 CRD and now that it is cold, 35F in the morning, the temp guage never gets to the middle. Only about half way...is this normal.
Also, I commute 85 miles round trip, mixed hiway and city driving and am getting 22mpg, where this fall I was getting 25mpg...and the heater does not blow hot, only warm air...
I was wondering if the thermostat may be stuck open...
Also there is a small light on that says type 43 every now and then....
Thanks for your help, from Summerfield NC!

unclebob9

When these thermostat's go out they tend to stay open. Your engine will run most efficiently when the needle in straight up.
You need to replace the thermostat ASAP to protect your engine and improve your MPG.
They are very strange units, the thermostat is sealed inside a casting, thus a $10 thermostat costs over $100 because you have to replace the entire assembly.
If you go to the Lostjeeps forum and do a search, there was a amature mechinist that was taking peoples old units and adapting them so that the thermostat inside was replaceable with a $10 unit. His charge was around $120 (and this was for the spacers and adapters he needs to purchase and very little for labor), if you sent him your unit. But from then on it was a much easier replacement and much cheaper. I believe he has a few he keeps in stock so it is quich exchange. Last time I E mailed him was about 9 months ago, so I mam not sure if he is still doing it or not.

jim66wright

Thanks! I just copied this and sent it to my mechanic here in High Point NC and he has a machine shop buddy, and they are going to take a look at it...if they are successful, then I will add his contact information for others....Cheers!

thstranger

At 44000 miles my 2006 CRD check engine light came on so I bought a $50.00 code reader from Walmart.com and you know it....It was the EGR !!! So I crawled under the Jeep to try and get a look at where it was located and could see the METAL end of the EGR where it bolted on. I thought I would try tapping it with a socket extension about 30-40 times from the bottom LIGHTLY !! Re-Set the code and drove it pretty hard after it was warmed-up, blew out alot of black smoke and the code has not came back on after about 1000 miles. Thought this might help someone else also.....I tapped LIGHTLY.......

caribou1

Hi all,
I haven't been into the local Jeep stealership for quite some time. Daimler got my address when I bought the Jeep back in 2003 and now FIAT calls for a subscription of 120 USD to be part of the Fiat-Jeep owners club. It seems they'll never understand :sick:

My only issue this year was the water in fuel warning light staid ON and this forced me to disconnect the water sensor plug underneath the fuel filter. There was nothing else to worry about, no oil losses, simply a beautiful piece of mechanics that I intend to keep another decade.

I wish you all a Merry Xmas and a Happy New Dieseling Year

dylan7495

Good Day,

I recently purchased a Liberty 2.8 CRD. The problem i am having is that when i come to a complete stop there is a little bump what i believe is the transmission disengaging or gearing down. is this normal. i am not really accustomed to the auto transmission. It happens more obviously when i come to a quick abrupt stop. I had a chrysler 3.3L that did the same thing except that i sold the car before the issue was resolved.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

warren9

The tranny situation is typical Chrysler engineer stupidity. If the F37 torque converter recall has not been done, DO NOT do it.

willysjeep

Back in messages 10308 and 10304, I noted that I have had battery problems. I had been keeping a tender on the batteries religiously during the cold Winter months. Well, I didn't do it at the beginning of this Winter because I bought a big new battery (again) last year and hadn't had it drained down. It drains when it sits for a few days in cold weather. I had to put the charger on it and give it some amps.

Checking fuses I found one fuse with a current draw and had been pulling that fuse to avoid the battery being drained. Strangely enough, it was the cigarette lighter fuse and nothing was plugged in. Fine! I can drive with the fuse pulled. There must be a parasitic load on the circuit.

Now here's why I am writing this (on New Year's Eve), today I was in an auto parts store and I met another person with a CRD. They had the same problem with the battery running down in cold weather. They installed a permanent tender next to the battery. The other Jeep owner thought there was a fuel line heater that was the culprit. Others have noted this battery problem as well. Is this a recurrent problem with this model Jeep? Some may never see this problem due to living in warmer climates.

What's the best fix?

Happy New Year!

crash227

My CRD is a 2006 and my factory battery lasted until 2010. I've never had the slow power drain you described but i did have the alternator pulley clutch go out. When that happened the alternator quit working and the battery went dead quick. After searching around I was able to buy a new $100 clutch pulley instead of a new $600 Denso alternator. Good luck and Happy New Year. My CRD has 150k miles and was still running strong when the transmission went out recently.

buckeyedisldog

Hi Willysjeep
I had the battery issue. The original jell type battery had 2 be replaced, battery blanket was not returned, also the replacement was replaced. Repair guy said when I removed the factory radio the jeeps computer continued to look 4 it thereby draining the battery. The computer was reprogrammed and problem disappeared. However my current battery’s terminals corrode faster than in any vehicle I have ever owned. I currently have about 54k miles on my Jeep Liberty CRD and its running ok. Happy New Year!

unclebob9

That is interesting Willy, That open up many possibilities, I wonder if the GRD ecotune might take care of the problem as well?
These computers can be either our best friend or enemy.

ladyliberty1

I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD. I've had it for about two years now when I bought it from it's previous owner. My check engine and battery light came on before a long trip for Christmas. I replaced the battery and everything seemed good....until I got to Illinois where everything just died. Apparently a piece on the alternator, where the belt runs, was loose. This cause the belt to break and bust some pieces of plastic but nothing major that we could see. :mad: We replaced the alternator, belt, and battery altogether that week. I drove it the 12 hours back home no problem. Just yesterday the ETC light came on. I'm just looking for any advice on what the issue could be. Currently my Liberty is at a service station spitting out codes to try and tell me whats going to be wrong.....in the meantime I am trying to do some research. Any help is appreciated!!!!

unclebob9

Just did a little quick research;
ETC= Electronic Throttle control.
Dodge durango's had this problem and it turned out to be either the EGR valve or it's gasket.
From the Jeep CRD forum: "Most likely a wet or failed speed or ABS sensor (maybe wire?). Give it some time to completely dry out & see if it goes away." This guys started acting up while in the rain, accellerating and brakeing at the same time in an attempt to dry the brake pads. ETC light started flashing and would not stop until computer was re-set.

gary1984

Does anyone know were to buy cheap injectors for that 2.8 CRD Vitori Motor in the 2005 Jeep. BOSCH dealers want $380 to $600, and that is just like being raped and robbed for a 6 inch half plastic half machined part.
Of course Jeep made the motor for two years and then the EPA raped us. Then we had bail Jeep/Dodge /Chrysler out with our tax dollars. They and Government motors should hand those out like dime store candy after what they did to taxpayers.

unclebob9

get the part number and use it to search, sometimes you can get parts alot cheaper that way. I am sure that the same fuel injectors are used in other applications, it's just finding them!

gary1984

Thanks unclebob, I have been doing that. The cheapest so far has been $319.
I have been trying to research cross referenced brands but have had no luck yet. I have a friend at Oreilys that is doing some research too. Hopefully something will turn up. I pulled the old one and cleaned it , and replaced the 14mm O ring. It should fire again but i think I have air in my fuel

Gary

gary1984

Thanks again for the advice I have found a number of sources although they are priced in different ranges some as much as $ 500 difference., with Mopar being the highest. The lowest I found even with shipping is overseas. Using the GOOGLE CHROME browser translator I have found some in the $230 to $260 range, from France to the Ukraine and in to South America. I thought this may help other folks. Below I enclose the numbers with the last numbers being the foreign interchange numbers.

OEM

5159970AA , 5159970AA , Mopar
Manufacturer Part Number: BOSCH0986435128 , 0986435128 ,

BOSCH FUEL INJECTORS

Interchange Part Number: Overseas UK, Brazil, France, Italy

0445110217 , 0445110217