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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    I read your post and I have a suggestion. When first start your CRD, let it idle for about 15 - 30 seconds before putting it in gear. You may have drainback issue with your CRD like I have in my 2005. Allowing the CRD to idle before putting it in gear refills the TC and other parts as the fluid drains back into the pan after a few hours of sitting.

    As to slamming into gear when you put it in reverse, I have had the same thing happen on a few occasions. It is rather unnerving. If it becomes a more consistent issue then the dealer will hear from me.
  • Sounds like what is going on with my jeep is not as bad as what was going on with yours...Today I didn't notice the slight "grind" when going into reverse....but the hard shift into 3rd gear is still there..it doesn't shift as hard after it warms up "around 5 miles or so" but going into 3rd gear is always a harder change than any other !!
    Thanks, Siberia
    Skeeter
  • Thanks Winter2,
    I do always try to let it warm up a little before starting out but I'll give it about a min. the next time to see if there is a differance.... You know how when you tack one up before it changes gear it hits a little harder than normal going into the next gear ?? I would say that mine going into 3rd gear for the first few miles is twice as hard...I will be keeping an eye on it for awhile and if it keeps it up I guess I'll make another visit :( ...
    Thanks again,
    Skeeter
  • Siberia,
    Was your scan tool working before you had your crd reflashed to fix the transmission, and then you had to have it reflashed again so your scan tool would work again ??? Because I just had mine "flashed" "recall" so an after-market scan tool would work and I am wondering if something happened when that was done that makes it shift hard into 3rd gear !!!
  • Hi! You mentioned "recall" I have not received any recalls on my Liberty yet. Aren't they supposed to mail them out?

    :confuse: LK
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Skeeter,

    In the first mile or so after first start of the day and especially when it is cool to cold, the trans is sluggish when it shifts. It is never really harsh or hard, just a bit sluggish. What I have learned is that the trans fluid, ATF+4, is a semi-synthetic product. It is the petroleum component in the ATF that is the problem when the temperature drops. When I get to 20K miles, I will be doing the first trans fluid change. I will be flushing out the factory fluid completely and replacing it with a completely synthetic trans fluid that exceeds ATF+4 specs. I have used a straight synthetic fluid in a trans before with very good results.

    I suggest that in the first mile or three that you go easy on the power application until things warm up a bit. I drive my CRD gently in the first few miles to keep the level of stress down on components.

    JW
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Was your scan tool working before you had your crd reflashed to fix the transmission, and then you had to have it reflashed again so your scan tool would work again ???

    Yes. The reflash to fix the transmission made it shift more firmly and quickly into 4th and 5th, but nothing I would call harsh.

    Because I just had mine "flashed" "recall" so an after-market scan tool would work and I am wondering if something happened when that was done that makes it shift hard into 3rd gear !!!

    I don't know. All I can say is that the scan tool reflash had no additional effect on mine other than the tool working, again.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Hi farout,
    I finally finished all my mileage tests with different combinations of fuel types, weather, filters, new tires, driving conditions and Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 versus dealership oil.
    It took me practically 2 years to sort things out because I evaluated each combination after 3 tankfuls.

    The varnish deposits (called 'coking' here) is the only source of problem I was able to identify and can reproduce (create) easely.

    I only wave my finger towards our ULSD :lemon:

    ULSD (5ppm sulfur fuel) made me loose 10% mileage after a few weeks. The engine never recovered it's original behaviour until recently when I changed to LSD (10ppm). It took me 6 full tanks of the LSD to "clean" whatever came out of the system.

    The nice thing about this engine is to be able to step back without damage. After 3 years of daily use and over 50,000 miles it runs better than new! :shades:

    I will keep:
    - the BFG T/A tires that are noisy but can roll over concrete edges,
    - the Parker-Racor R20S fuel filter,
    - the Shell Helix Ultra oil.

    I will keep as souvenirs:
    - the K&N filter,
    - the Provent ccv oil trap.

    To my opinion the original air filter element (the white one made in Canada) does a good job but I'm using MANN paper cartriges instead. They are much cheaper and I prefer to change more often.
  • ungnungn Posts: 19
    Hi! You mentioned "recall" I have not received any recalls on my Liberty yet. Aren't they supposed to mail them out?

    We didn't get a recall in the mail, either, but when I took our 2005 Liberty to the dealer for a check engine light (we thought it was the gas cap) and to fix a brake light (bad socket), they replaced the ball joints and gave us a new EGR (My original had about 14K miles on it).
  • Try online - there are several places - I called my dealer and Chrysler - they both told me there is no difference in the contract no matter where I buy it. About the online quoates, Chrysler said, "Oh it's a group of dealers who have gotten together to offer discounts because of bulk transactions." My warranty actually came from a dealer in Barrington, IL. He walked me through the whole process and took a credit card.

    You can type Jeep Extended Warranty into your search bar and start looking. There are several - not all the same prices. Here is one to try http://chryslerservicecontracts.com/

    I got 7/70 for $1170. By financing the car I got $1000 cash off, turned around and paid it off before finance charges accrued thus really saving myself 1K. So, I figure the extended warranty cost only $170. :-) Nice.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    carobou1: I was wondering where you had gone, it was a good long time that you posted here. Glad to hear from you! Your test show what I have suspected for a while. T ULSD we have where I live is 15ppm, and my mpg increases when I use it. However when I have used B-20 my mpg went down to 18 mpg, where before with no bio fuel I got 22+ mpg. With bio fuel it was quieter when the engine was running.
    I just called the parts store and we do not have that kind of Shell oil or that filter. However I DO USE SHELL ROTELLA 5-40W, and the DCX water/fuel filter.
    I am not going to try a K&N or a Provent. If I am right tired old dave, made his own kind of provent, he dumped his CRD this summer as well as new2diesel. Wnow have 21,000 miles on our CRD, on the 29th we will have had the CRD 1 year.
    Our diesel is now $2.35 a gallon, I am sure you price is much higher. Glad your back again

    Farout
  • Farout... I also use Rotella 5w-40 good oil but I use the Provent. You can not imagen how well this part work for your CRD, it trap a lot of bad oil, my hoses are all clean since i start using the provent. I only have 56oo miles on mine and it is an 05. Here in Orlando the cheapest diesel that i found was $2.60 at a 7-11 citgo station, and it last 30 minutes, the truckers were buying 2 or $300.00 to fill the tanks. Still no ULSD.

    Nescosmo.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Nescosmo, when you say the Provent trapped a lot of oil, are you talking of a few cubic inches or less?
    My engine oil level stays to it's "full" mark all the time, even after 15,000 miles. This was never the case 10 years ago!
    If you look at the range of VM engines you will notice they already use the equivalent of the Provent ccv, if not the same unit. I agree the Provent can extend the life of your air-mass flow meter. I did not install the Provent because my engine(MY 2003)is already too old to have the emissions control you have, so fortunately it can live well in the oil fumes . The only 'emissions control' sensors I have are the fuel pressure and boost pressure. My boost pressure is regulated by a simple membrane actuated wastegate and spring return. My EGR is vacuum driven without any return signal so the engine and transmission work selfishly.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    farout, I took the Jeep to the sea :shades: :shades:
  • Prairiegirl.... Thank you for the info i will get busy looking for the best deal. How is your CRD, I took my today for a ride after a week of only using it for about 10 miles, i put 60 miles today and it was like a silk; I was doing 70 to 75 miles and it was so smooth. I love my CRD....

    nescosmo.
  • Caribou1... Welcome back, yes the provent only have a few cm of oil, when you check the filter you can see the oil and the drainage also have a very small amount not to make a difference in the amount of the deep stick. the hoses on the turbo all are clean with no oil, before i had to clean it all the time because the black oil was all over. it work very good. Caribou1 i wish that here in the US we could have a bast supply of parts like in EU. I will love to fix my CRD but i am afraid that the supply of parts will stop me from doing that.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Nescosmo, what type of spare parts are you thinking about?
    I struggle to have bits and pieces come from NA because they are often better while you expect to get them from the EU :(
    It was the same debate 25 years ago: I supplied local industry with quality assurance equipment coming from the US. It was top quality handcraft made by dedicated senior employees. The EU could no longer afford that at the time, and I had been told that robots don't smoke, drink, go on strike or to the ...
    Today before buying I look where the goods come from and pay the extra money. I'm not a robot :P
  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    Hello all. I took the summer off from the Bd. Trying to get back into the swing of things. I have a tad over 8,200 miles on my 06. Treating her like a Jeep every chance I get.
    I recently raced my CRD at the US Diesel Nationals in Englishtown, NJ. She ran Mid 17s at 75mph. This will finally end the debate of if it's fast. As you can see, NO!
    Just to race the event proved a challenge.
    8:00 A.M. Security stops me at the entrance to the track and tells me I can't race.
    I ask why.
    Told it's "Diesel only."
    My answer. "Go Smell the %$&*@#* exhaust."
    Quickly told to move up in line.
    Everyone with a Big Rig and the diesel powered pickups from the big 3 were amazed at the little CRD. I spent 20 minutes at tech, just answering questions about the Jeep. Every Diesel junkie at the event was amazed and impressed with the quality of the little 2.8L. Not the fastest Diesel at the event as some heavily modified Big Rigs blew off low 16 second passes! Over all a good time.
    If Jeep is reading this, I'd happily accept any gratuities for plugging the Jeep and explaining everything the best that I could. I had to tell many disappointed would be customers that they have to wait until the GC get the Mercedes next year if they want any Jeep with a Diesel.
    All knowledge was gained from the smart minds that come here and take the time to educate and share their knowledge of Diesel engines.
    If only I had a dollar for every person that told me it was a Mercedes engine instead of VM Motori I would be writing this from a lap top some place in the tropics. :shades:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Hi jimhemi,
    Perhaps next year because of your participation there will be a "Pee-Wee" or "HO" class :)
    Where you in front, between or behind the big rigs? I'm thinking of a 'Hitchcock' movie situation...
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Nice to hear from you once more Caribou.

    Well, I went out and purchased a K&N filter for my CRD about three weeks ago. I see you put yours away. I am finding that the K&N has made some difference. For one,turbo lag is down by more than one-third and at times seems non-existent. Fuel economy actually worsened a little but now I am using a lighter foot on the accelerator pedal and fuel economy is back to baseline.

    As to oil, I am staying with the synthetic 15W-40 for now while I am in Florida. ULSD (15 ppm) fuel will not be here on a regular basis until about mid-October. I am able to get ULSD but unfortunately not on a regular basis as of yet. I looked at the specs for the Shell Helix oil and it is a CF rated oil. The oil I use is CI-4+ rated and considering the poor quality of U.S. diesel fuel (low cetane), I will continue to use it. The 15W-40 I use has specs similar to most 5W-40 synthetic oils.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    We had our ball joints, and TCM reflash done yesterday. Can't tell any difference in the way it drives. The tec said the old ball joints can look good on the outside, but be ready to come apart. The dealer had plenty of the ball joints on hand.
    While at the dealer we got a pamphlet on the Dodge NITRO. It comes with the 3.7 V-6 or the new phoenix 4 L V-6. I think the dash and the front end look odd to me, but from the front door hinges back it looks very good. This is what the 2008 Liberty will look like except for the front end and the dash. The spare tire is underneath, which I really like. With a longer wheel base it should ride better.
    There were some 2007 Ram's in with the new diesel that meets the 2007 emissions, the cast was $5,800. extra for the diesel. I am not sure what the cost was for the 2006 Rams.
    There seems no changes in the 2007 Liberty. The 2008 Liberty is scheduled to come out in late March.
    In our area of 150 miles I don't find a new 2006 CRD anywhere. If there where we might have considered it rather than the 2006 3.7 we got for our daughter.
    Diesel fuel is $2.359 now and gas is $1.999

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    winter2: Where can you get Shell Helix oil. Every parts place that I've checked with here, says it is not available. Here, at least.

    Farout
  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    I read back a few posts and saw some people upgraded their mufflers. I've been looking to do the same. Has anyone installed an Aero muffler? If so, what's your part number and how has it been? Same question to the fellow CRD owner that installed a Flowmaster, what's your part number?
    I actually want something louder and have contemplated just running a straight pipe using the CAT as the only thing to muffle the sound.
    I have heard from some people that a Diesel engine DOES NOT need back pressure. Gas engines do need some back pressure. Anyone that can shed more light on this?
  • My first time on here and glad to find this site!!! We lover our CRD. 2005 with 20K miles. Had as couple of problems and am curious to see if anyone else has the same.
    I have had 2 egr valves replaced and the check engine light is on again. Same problem I believe. Hear a wooshing sound when the engine revs. Not the same as a turbo whine though. Engine had a lot more power when this EGR valve goes out. Revs faster etc. ALSO have two other problems that the dealer has not found a solution for yet. 1. Popping noise like a hammer under the car( can feel the popping also) when acelerating fast or stopping fast. ALSO have experienced (3 times)a LOSS OF ENGINE POWER (skipping) after making a sharp right hand turn. Turning direction may not have anything to do with it, but it has not happened on a left hand turn yet. Engine acts like it is running on one cyl. Will not pull the car more than 1 mph. No check engine light etc. It is resolved by turning the engine off and trying to restart it. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 long times to restart it. (very annoying in traffic) Engine was warm on 2 occasions and cold 1 time. Also sprang an oil leak that is putting a small pool of oil on the drivers side on top of the radiator.

    Like I said, we love the car. Actually it is my wifes car. Now I want one.

    ANY IDEAS ON THIS???
  • From what I understand, there will be no more CRD's produced for 2007 year model
  • dacurdacur Posts: 10
    Hi,
    Mind telling me which oil filter relocation kit you ordered from Amsoil? I want to install one and am having trouble figuring out which one to order. thanks
  • nescosmo, our little Libby is a joy to drive! The recalls have been taken care of (though they had not created a problem yet) and she just sails along. Hubby uses the 0/40 oil recommended and a WIX filter. Our driving is light and not dirty so plan on the light maintenance schedule.
    Warranty: Got the contract paper immediately by email and the card and entire contract came yesterday - about 10 days. Ours is the gold coverage (bumper to bumper) so towing is included as well as a rental car.
    Hope you enjoy your ride!
  • Hi you all,

    As i have said, i have a 2006 crd and when i check my transmission fluid "cold" haven't driven the truck for over 8-10 hours so it is around 75-85 degrees...the "cold" fluid checks about a quarter inch above the "hot" range (like it is way too full)....then when i check it "hot" it is in the hot range, say after driving it 40 or more miles !! just was wondering if anyone had checked their crd transmission "hot" and "cold" and what reading ya'll might have got ??
    Thank you,
    Skeeter
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    chipj: Welcome to the forum! I have posted a lengthy remark about the EGR problem and how it needs to be done correctly on post #7714. Basically if the PCM is not replaced at the same time as the EGR. you are most likely to continue replacing the EGR over and over.
    The last CRD in the Liberty was built in May, 06. To get the CRD to pass the 2007 Federal Emission standard it would have added too much cost to the vehicle. Even the Grand C CRD which is due out in 1/07 has had many problems that are yet to be worked out. The fuel mileage is less than the gas 4.7 V-8. So DCX has some fine tuning to due before 1/07.
    As to the sound you hear, it sounds like a loose hose. Take to a dealer that knows CRD's real well. Hope this helps. Glad you are in the forum.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Last year I got the Chrysler Warranty for $1540. Max care $0 ded. 5 year 100,000 miles on our 2005 CRD. This year on our daughters 2006 Sport 3.7 gas the same warranty is now $2,220. The price increase is due to the drop in basic factory warranty to 3 years 36,000 miles.
    After looking at all sorts of warranties I can't find any other extended warranty that covers as much as the Chrysler warranty. The $50. ded 5 year 100,000 is $1,930. 36 monthly payments at 0% interest. I think this one looks best. Does anyone know of any Extended Warranty that's better, with the6 months and 0% interest?

    Farout
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