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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Caribou - I was driving in an area that's super flat compared to your Alps, but I did see significant mpg differences based on speed:
    30mpg at steady 55mph
    26mpg at typical 65-70mph freeway
    24mpg at 75mph freeway

    Outside temperatures played a role too, but I have no influence on those.
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    Hey peoples ! Just checking in to brag about, well..... Perfection !
    Mar '05 Diesel Liberty still hasn't been to the shop.
    Any new issues I'm out of the loop on ???
    Thanks.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Zachinmi,
    Without being too technical I observed the following:

    - diesels that use flywheels are not sensitive to temperature :D
    - we usually get good mileage during summer holidays ;)
    - our daily obligations are often in city traffic :cry:
    - winter conditions cumulate low temp. and traffic :sick:

    In a year, how many days do you travel for pleasure :confuse:
  • I need to replace the driver's side front side marker light. What do I have to do, drill out the rivets holding the bumper cap?
  • steve05steve05 Posts: 52
    Amazing, my libby turned 36K and 600 miles and suddenly the power steering pump bleeds profusely. Also, last week, I bought new tires at 36k and 400 miles. While the tires were off, I looked at the brakes. Rear pads are COMPLETELY shot. Fronts look brand new. Call dealer - "Well - you ARE out of warranty, so we'll fix it, but it'll cost you. And the brakes? We replace lots of rear brakes. What's wrong with that?" Me - "Don't you think replacing REAR brakes indicates an issue with the proportioning valve?" Them - "No, why?" Me - "First time working on cars?" Them - "Sir - do you have an attitude problem?" Me - hang up, fix brakes, dropping Jeep off on Monday at a REAL mechanic to fix power steering issue. LAST CHRYSLER PRODUCT. Love my Jeep, but....
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Consider posting that in My warranty has expired. Now what?.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I believe it was VW that had the reputation for 2 sets of rear pads to one front, while others were going through 2 fronts to one rear just like tires (fwd-if one saved tire rotation expense). It seems to happening now to others. My initial thought is straight stopping from 60 to 0.
  • steve05steve05 Posts: 52
    Well, I've had a few days to "sleep on it" now, and this is the best I can console myself with: As I've not read on this forum any mention of rear brakes wearing out (yes, I know it's a DIESEL forum) I'll have to guess my situation is unique. The dealership I've been taking all my warranty work and oil changes to, is not the dealer I bought the jeep from, and the service manager probably is not aware of the several thousands of dollars I HAVE spent there on factory add-ons. His incentive is low and maybe he had a bad day. BTW - the rotors were trash too. Most of my friends are "backyard" mechanics, like meself, and none of us have seen rear pads go first. Ce la vie.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Steve05,
    Rear brakes wear according to your driving habits and the load on the rear axle. The CRD is almost balanced and the brake load proportional valve seldom needs to ask for assistance from the rear axle. On mine I hear the rear pads whistle when I apply the brakes, and by pulling the hand brake the sound changes. To set the play of the rear pads one needs to pinch the disc brake and let go by 3 notches in reverse direction. This makes the hand brake lever travel halfway up in its slot.
    I have rust but practically no wear on the rear rotors after 120,000 KM.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    I just replaced all 4 pads and rotors at 106000 mi.m
    The fronts were metal to metal and the rears were at 10%.
    I went in because I was starting to hear a noise from the passenger rear.
    I was told that the rotors are a composite and are designed to wear down with the pads-not a great design IMHO.
    I notice no difference in braking.
    Maybe something in your brake system is hanging up causing the back brakes to not release properly.
    My morning drive is mostly downhill, and I tend to wear out brakes rather fast, I was very impressed with the life on the OEM brakes. :)
  • Well, I read all the post on here. I started a few months back before I bought mine. It started with people talking about news of the CRD coming out. People ording one. Waiting. I was a little worried when I first saw 1000 posts but I really wanted the diesel and 4x4. I kept reading. I noticed people posting that didn't have a jeep or had a jeep and no longer had one and are still posting. Go to an aol chat room or something, jees.
    People post about minor stuff. I remember cars in the 60's and 70's that were wore slam out at 50k mile. "Never" did a car make 100k. It would flood out when it rained. Squeeked, rattled and were a real POS. Cadillacs, Buicks sedans, it didn't matter. People are spoiled now and have no experience to even change oil. You go to a parts house and girls are punching numbers and have no idea what the parts do. Guys had to be cracker jack mechanics before they got work at the parts house. Cars and trucks always broke down and crossing over parts was the standard of the day. Nothing stayed stock just to keep it running. Parts guys were like doctors, they knew soooo much about all cars and trucks. We are talking about working on the drive line all of the time. rebuilding engines and transmssions. There were no options like today. Now the computer tells you whats wrong and you get the part number from the girl and put the part on. Jees.
    My jeep split a blower hose after driving it for 3k miles. The girl at the parts counter at the dealer had it in stock and I put it on in 10 minutes. These cars are so reliable they should have girls in the mechanic bays too.
    It has 70k on it. I bought it in N.C., I flew up and drove it home. It is in nearly new condition. It is an amazing little truck.
    I went to a grocery wholesaler a few months ago and bought 5 gallons of VO and poured it in DINO 75/25 VO. Smells good, runs better with more power, smoother, more responsive, cleaner without all the smoke, increased mpg by 1.5, quieter. I then poured it in my boat with a four cylinder Perkins in a 43 foot trimaran then into my YM2200 Yanmar tractor. all was great then the price of VO jumps up to $6 a gallon wholesale. I'm still going to add the VO. American diesel is dirty unpurified crap compared to the euro fuel. All of the engines are just happier and so am I. Fortunately I don't drive to work everyday. I tried peanut oil like ole Mr. Diesel patented it for but I blew the turbo hose and got busy and really didn't notice any difference from the VO but the price of peanut oil is now 12 dollars a gallon. I'm going to take my tractor and plant peanuts, I can eat them, sell them and make fuel. Sounds good to me. This truck is worlds away from the trucks a decade or two or three or four ago. This VM Motori of Italy motor is great. VM has been making only diesels since 1943 and this motor is all over europe since 2001. Europe is 60% diesel passenger cars. I see why GM bought 50% of the stock in 2007 and will be putting them in the 2009 cts cadillacs. Hence the reason no 2007 CRD's. Roger penske is now CEO. I doubt they will be in America. I'm sure an American company will screw up the company.
    Anyway, complaining about taking your jeep into the dealer is funny to me. All of the dealers have always been that way. It's not the Jeep. If you can't do the work your self you should have a prius or a focus. A jeep crd that never leaves the road or doesn't have a towing backage on it is a waste. Like kids that buy trucks and jack them up with mud tires that never leave the road. If you can't turn a wrench, stop whineing.
    Mine has had all the recalls done, the joints, the TC, the egr. I get a kick out of the dealer replacing all these things for free at 70k or 100k miles. Back in the day we never heard of a recal and every part and option on the car was broke in five years no matter how much you babied it.
    The tc is the way it is because 300 ft. lbs of torque would give you whip lash everytime it shifted. The next time it happens I look forward to the sunpro tc and the transgo shift kit. Goody Goody. Clean the map sensor when you change the oil. It's one #4 allen, how easy is that?
    I didn't see any catrostophic failures anywhere about the CRD so I bought one. The egr? Filthy fuel. Brakes at 100k...your kidding right? Electric mirrors? what is that for? leave my mirrors alone. best thing that could happen. must be chicks.
    My son is so jealous I have to let him drive it.
    geeep...geeep...lol... :)
  • who should be the one to get to post msg 10,000 (or 9999 if that is a limit)
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    Not kidding-106000 mi on stock brakes. :D
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Mdamick,
    Do you have oil leak stains where you park? My parking area remains clean except for the air conditioning condensates that carry oily residues. That's all there is after 5 years :)
  • butchmanbutchman Posts: 24
    I have 05 CRD. At just under 36K I smelled something hot. The rear left hand wheel was hot. Rear brake stuck and shoe rubbing. Took it in - Service Writer smiled - been seeing that. Replaced left caliper, brake pad and the short brake line - charged DC. Everything went well and then at 55K I smelled something hot. The rear right hand wheel was hot. I am out of warranty...Got relatively large screw driver, laid down on the cement and "carefully" found a place that I could leaver pressure against caliper. Pop - and was loose. Have driven approximately 300 miles since that and yes the brakes work - no hang ups - no heat. My guess - I take cruise off on Highway by tapping the brake pedal (a lot). Rear calipers have a tendacy of evidently sticking and then you get pre-mautre rear brake wear. How often are they coming loose on their own before I smell it...I figured the rear shoes may need replacing when the fronts do? :surprise: By the way - when the right rear was hanging up I did a test to see how tight it was and although there was some drag, it was not significant enough to cause pull. It was just rubbing enough to cause heat and wear.
  • lakelvrlakelvr Posts: 21
    Need advice - malfunction indicator light turned on, then off for a day then back on for good. Engine @45k runs good and no error codes are shown. Is this a mileage occurrence to get me to the dealer or is it possible something is wrong? Also how do you turn it off if it is mileage related?
  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    Hi all. Has anyone changed their fuel filter them selves? I've been told that a light will come on the dash board once it's filled with water and ready to go. (That's how the Power Strokes are). I have an 06 with a little over 32k. The only thing I do is change the oil with Mobil 1 5W-40 and rotate the tires. It's run ok, but the little rat stalls on occasion. Has this happened to anyone else?
    Is it the crank sensor? Little hic cups such as this as well as tranny issues- vibrations and little crap have me looking at the Cummins or Power Stroke 3/4 tons.
  • butchmanbutchman Posts: 24
    Are you sure there is no code (like EGR low air flow)? How did you check it? The symptom you describe is almost identical to what happened to me at approximately the same mileage. If it is EGR flow, there are some options. I would look at the LOST KJ web site - CRD forum.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    I have noticed a couple of drips.
    Seem to be coming from the drain plug-which my oil place changed from the allen to a standard bolt type.
    Nothing to worry about.

    Post 10K :)
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    Changing the fuel filter is a pain because of the water in fuel sensor plug that can only be reached from underneath.
    How I did it was fill with fuel before re-installing.
    Then bleed it with the on-board pump and bleed valve on the left side.
    The only dash light is the "water in fuel", which I have seen a couple of times.
    I wish DC had put a drain valve on the filter, because you have to unscrew the sensor and let the water/fuel run down your arm until you get all of the water out.
    The stalling I think is the EGR opening up when it is not supposed to. Since I disconnected it mine has not stalled once.
    I am still not enamored with the transmission, the TC seems to slip in 5th lockup between 50 & 55 if I push it too hard. I just live with it, and if it fails I would like to put in a Suncoast TC and shift kit.
  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    Thanks. I believe Caribou posted awhile back on how he disconnected his EGR. Do you happen to have the steps you took?
    I'm a [non-permissible content removed] behind the wheel and even driving it hard over 80 most of the time I see 25-26mpg. I always felt the EGR as a gov't control device that really did little other then to make some feel good in the pits of their stomach that we were saving the environment.
    The thing seems to stall after sitting for an hour or so and as I get up a little speed and stop at the end of the driveway... the dreaded rattle and dead. She fires right up so I don't know what else it can be.
    Some on here have said to clean the throttle body out and others say it's the fuel filter. I think I will be doing the NO EGR, cleaning of the throttle body and changing the fuel filter.
    Other then those stupid quirks the truck does what I ask it when I ask it.
    The service writer at the dealership told me unofficially the same thing we all know by now. This was the former DC's way of testing the market with Diesels. They rushed all of the software and threw the smallest diesel that would bolt to the infamous A545- (I like the old 727's better, but I'm just weird.) Much like everyone else, I don't understand why the engine and trans weren't out of a Mercedes european diesel model car?
    Let me know if you upgrade the TQ converter. The after market makes much better products anyway.
    If this fixes the stalling I'll keep the truck and purchase the extended warrenty. If it doesn't then I'll sell it and but the Cummins.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    See post #9082.
  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    Thanks. I showed it to the Diesel Mechanic at the dealership that's come to know my rat quite well. He smiled and nodded and explained the legality of tampering with that as it's federally mandated, blah blah. He did say he will order one and put it in for me. I'll wait for that to go and probably go your route. It's still under warranty so what the hell. I did like that Suncoast TQ. That's nice. Claims up to 80 extra HP? So we can put that back in and get the HP/TQ we lost with the de tune :shades:
  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    I don't know if anyone has had this yet, but while the dealer was replacing a broken motor mount on my Libby, the tech noticed that the front brake lines had ballooned. It was fortunate that the truck was in the shop and in the air because they probably wouldn't have lasted that much longer.
    I urge anyone that has this truck to either crawl under there and look or take it to the dealer. It has not hit the bulliten yet. My truck went in with a smidge over 32,000 on it. The pads and rotors are "green" and still original from the factory so it's not as if I autocross with her.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Changing the fuel filter is a pain because of the water in fuel sensor plug that can only be reached from underneath.

    Try removing the two mounting nuts on the filter head and lift the entire assembly up as far as the hoses will let you. Then you can then remove the electrical plug(s) and loosen the drain working from the top. If you lift the assembly up and away you can drop a transmission funnel below the filter area into an empty container below the vehicle to catch the fuel when you open the drain. Or not, just a suggestion.

    How I did it was fill with fuel before re-installing.

    Just a minor caution here: It can be risky to poor raw unfiltered diesel fuel into a filter unless you are sure the fuel is only going into the proper area of the filter. It is a major caution on diesel engines that use a drop in filter in a canister. In all modern diesel fuel systems the fuel must be drawn in only through the filter. The primer pump on the filter works quite well and ensures that the fuel is safely filtered. You must have done it right, but it only takes one particle that is big enough to plug an injector.

    I wish DC had put a drain valve on the filter, because you have to unscrew the sensor and let the water/fuel run down your arm until you get all of the water out.

    Well…it is supposed to be a drain. It’s made like a tiny funnel with a place where you can attach a clear plastic hose and open it partially and drain the water off. The threaded part has a flat side to let the fuel flow through to the funnel part when partially open. The problem is it doesn’t work very well…at least I could’t get it to work for s#’!.

    I have around 55k miles on my engine and it seems to have more power than ever. I am not sure if I am not enamored with the transmission or enamored with this engine that seems to be capable of shredding a fairly strong transmission on demand.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    Your points are noted.
    I was comparing it to my Dodge P/U.
    The drain is actually a valve that you push up and a hose to direct the water/fuel into an oil pan. Much nicer than unscrewing the water in fuel sensor.
    I did not feel like taking the thing apart more than I had to to change the filter, the new vehicles have so much crammed into the engine bay they are difficult to work on.
    As to pre-filling the filter, I keep some #1 for heaters and pour it into the filter center. I have never had a problem getting dirt into the filter [non-permissible content removed]'y.
    At 107000 mi mine is running good and getting 23-25 mpg.
  • kntrygurlkntrygurl Posts: 12
    I have an 05 Jeep Liberty Deisel and it is building backpressure and blowing the intake hose off the throttle body. The wastegate is not opening but when you unhook it the vaccuum line from it the enigine will run without blowing the hose, but with considerable loss of power.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    There is a solution to this problem.

    1. You need to find the boost sensor on the intake manifold. It sits near the back of the intake manifold and is on top. Your will need a four millimeter Allen key wrench to remove the single screw that holds it in place.
    2. Disconnect the wiring that goes to it. Once out flip it over. The poor thing will probably be buried in black sticky soot. Clean that off with some brake cleaner and a very soft brush. I find Amsoil Power Foam also works very well too. Once you have the sensor nice and clean, replace it and re-connect the wiring.

    3. For the hose, the end that keeps blowing off is probably oil soaked and is very mushy. If that is the case, you will probably have to replace it. My dealer gave me the hose and I replaced it myself, returning the bad one, no questions asked.

    When you replace that hose, it should be in place without either end attached to anything. Make sure the throttle body is clean and dry. Apply a thin coat of either Indian Head Shellac or Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket to the outside of the throttle body where the hose goes and another thin coat to the inside of your new hose. Apply the coat of either as far into the hose as you possibly can without dropping the applicator into the hose. Allow the gasket cement to dry for about three to five minutes and then slide the hose onto the throttle body. Apply the hose clamp and tighten it down. Apparently the gasket cement protects the hose from the oil and hot throttle body. I strongly suggest you wear disposable gloves when using either of the aforementioned cements as methanol is the only solvent for either of them.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Hi guys,
    Before changing anything I would try to feel how stiff both hoses become when the turbo is building pressure. If there is some kind of obstruction in the intercooler the boost pressure sensor could see a partial pressure. Secondly, there was a discussion here about a different type of hose that never became soggy. Certain makes of oil cause swelling of the intake hose on my engine :(
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Caribou,

    Your posting makes some sense, but according to the tech at the dealer I use, a boost sensor buried in sticky soot is the primary cause of blown hoses. He has yet to see a blocked or clogged intercooler.

    As to the oils, I have found that the original 0W-40 from Mobil gave me the most headaches with seepage, swollen hoses and consumption. The two oils I find that work best in my CRD are Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck/SUV Diesel and Amsoil 15W-40 Heavy Duty Synthetic for truck/Diesel. They both spec out similarly except that the Amsoil has a significantly lower rate of oil vaporization at high temperatures. Presently, the Mobil product is nearly $7.00/quart while the Amsoil product is about $1.00/quart less even when you include shipping costs and other fees.
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