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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Texcrd06.... If you go to Autozone the oil will not be were the regular oil is, it will be on a separate location were the oil filter wrenches are or some where else but not were the regular oil is. If you go to discount autoparts it will be the same, not were the regular oil is but in another shelve. Good lock....
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Whlpny.... If you buy it use syn 5w-40 oil not the 0w-40 and also buy from the beginning an oil catcher for the CCV valve, if you do this you probably will never have any problem with the EGR valve...happy buying.
  • flightnurseflightnurse at 35K feetPosts: 1,524
    In the latest commericals for Jeep Dr Z makes a comment that there are new Diesel engines coming for Jeep, does anyone know if the GC and Commander will get these new engines ? I would love to see a GC with a 3.5L inline 6 turbo Diesel making 300HP and 400lbs of torque and get 21 in city driving...

    Tony :shades:
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    farout is right i get about nineteen in town and about twenty four on the highway about thirty percent better than my o two gas er love my crd lost egr valve at sixteen thousand miles dealer was great to work with no other problems after warranty runs out drill out the u joints and use synthetic grease
  • If you go by what is already available in Europe, the Grand Cherokee, Commander, and Chrysler 300C can be bought with the 3.0L 6 Cylinder CRD made by Mercedes. Check the Jeep UK website for details: www.jeep.co.uk
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: I must have a unique CRD. I can spin the tires in fulltime 4x4. Only the back tires smoke. As far as power and get up and go, when I compare the 2005 Limited Liberty we had, with the CRD, the CRD would eat up the 3.7 gas. I was very unhappy with the 3.7 in fuel mileage and power. The 4 speed was primitive compared to the 5 speed auto we have with the CRD. Even with the EGR problems, the CRD rides better and smoother and seems more solid on curves and the tipping over feeling. I have no idea why mine has the ability to spin the tires, but it does.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    crdblazr: Walmart is elimating Mobil 1 0-40 and 5-40, and what you got was priced before at $21.98. Great buy! I switched to Shell Rotella 5-40, mainly because Mobil 1 0-40 I could only get at the dealer and special order at a parts store at $6.57 a quart. The Shell Rotella was $15.32 a gallon at Walmart. (Walmart is the biggest importer of goods from China in the world) Look for Chevy to have engines made in China soon. Engines made in Italy, now that's a different ball game.

    Farout
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Dave,

    I am assuming this is for the 15W-40. For the AST-445 @ 40 it seems a touch high, but the other numbers fall into the same ball park as the other oils I mentioned. You will probably be fine with this oil under all conditions except for really cold days. I cannot tell where that cut off point is. I live in metro D.C. and our winters are generally pretty easy on a diesel. It is rare to see single digit cold and even rarer to see subzero cold here.

    As to the ball joints, I have no answer for you on who makes them for DCX but if they are made by MOOG, then they are good ones. I used tie rod ends from them some many years ago and I never had to replace them.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Your comment about Italian engines can be taken a few ways. There are some Italian engines that make lovely paper weights or sculptures and that is all they are good for. There are other engines from Italy that are unbeatable.

    This engine from VM Motori is a really good engine. The basic design and components are first class. It is the add on emissions stuff and injection system from Bosch that makes it appear problematic. There are good injection systems and there are really great injection systems. Bosch makes both and I do not know which one they gave us. Siemens also makes good stuff but I had Siemens injectors on my 1993 Dakota with 5.2L V-8 and six failed in 70K miles. Replaced them with Bosch equivalent and they did not fail. Had Bosch injection on a 1985 Dodge Daytona Turbo and it was flawless. Go figure.
  • whlpnywhlpny Posts: 10
    Ok- I'm new to the diesel thing- what and where is the CCV valve- is this catcher some kind of filter- where do I buy it at?
    Another thing I'm wondering is cold weather starting. The vehicle will be setting outside at work all day- no place to plug it in- will this be an issue? It can be garaged and plugged at home. Seems like I read that the new pickups have in tank heaters now so fuel stays warm and wont gel up. Does the CRD have this?
    Ball Joints- there are only a few manufactureres here in the US. Anything bought aftermarket such as MOOG is only a packaging name. They are forged and assembled by a big name then sold off to companys like Moog or Federal Mogul then they re-pack em under thier name. We now have stiff competion from the global market on this stuff. Very possible the stock units on a CRD could have come from overseas. There are new companys breaking into the market. We have lost several jobs due to thier cheaper pricing, the quality wasn't there, and we have brought some of that work back in. The safety factor does play a major role in the suspension components and the auto manufacturers get excited when failure occurs. I haven't had the chance to look under a CRD yet to see what the cap looks like-- I hope its not one of ours!!

    Bob in Mi
  • whlpnywhlpny Posts: 10
    When I said in tank heaters- I mean that they are of 12 volt so they work when not plugged in.

    Bob
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    winter2: I am pretty sure the ball joints are NOT made by MOOG. These come from cheapest price bid contracts. One set of my Dakota's ball joints were made in Mexico. I had top and bottom and both sides replaced 5 times. When the dealer service manager broke them open they were dry and almost rusty. Replacing these are expensive, I am glad I had a service contract, and DCX never charged me a ded. fee. These ball joints that are "lifetime sealed" are really not good at all.

    Farout
  • Thanks for the info. Amsoil 15w40(90.8)and Rotella 5w40(90) but Mobil 1 5w40(102). Redline 15w40(97) is in between. If redline is a touch high, what does that say about mobil 1 5w40?
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    I have a 2005 CRD and after a camping trip I met another CRD owner at the lake and he told me of this site. I haven't seen any other CRD's on the road. I haven't gone back through this form (it huge), but has anyone changed out the Goodyear ST tires, mine are less than acceptable. I was thinking of replacing them with Falken Ziex S/TZ04 - P235/70SR16 load range C, Sears says they will fit. I don't plan on going off-roading I just bought it for the diesel engine, and it would tow my 18' camper. I have been getting 24 to 28.5 mpg without the trailer and 16.5 with. No addeditives and Mobil 1 0W-40 at the dealer. So far so good.
  • flightnurseflightnurse at 35K feetPosts: 1,524
    Yes that is a 3.0 L diesel, MB has a 3.5L inline 6 that makes 300hp and gets roughly 20% better then the 2.7 we have now. I'm just wondering if we are going to get them...

    Tony
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Chevy already has engines made in China - the Equinox car-based SUV has a Chinese-made engine, and I believe it has since it was introduced. I don't know if any other GM models are using the same Chinese made engine. I think it's made in a GM plant in China, but I'm not sure.
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Bob, I live in the Lansing area and bought my CRD in January. I've had no starting problems in cold weather. Just wait for the glowplug light to turn off and it will start right up. Incidentally, I never once plugged mine in for the block heater.

    It is important to have winterized diesel, but every service station in Michigan (or any other northern state) that sells diesel will be selling winter diesel during the appropriate months. Only an issue if you fill up in Florida in January and somehow make it back here with their winter diesel in the tank. I believe I did have this issue on a recent trip to Colorado, where I bought diesel in the desert and then apparently had gelling up at 10,000 feet in the mountains, but that won't be an issue in Michigan.

    I've heard of in-tank heaters for Class 8 semis so that they can avoid the Florida fuel in northern winter issue that I just described. I'm not sure how common it is for them; you can also avoid the problem with fuel additives that don't cost very much.

    If you do buy a CRD, I recommend Meijer premium diesel, which is one of the best brands I've found to have my CRD running happily. It also tends to be among the cheapest. BPAmoco premium diesel also works great but the only station with it that I know if is 60 miles from where I live.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Whlpny.... Let see the CCV valve is on the top of the engine and it have one hose that goes to the air intake where the turbo is. on that hose is where you install the oil catcher. The name is Proven 200 and it cost me $160.00 with a replacement filter. You do not need the replacement, you can wash the filter with mineral spirit and it will be ok. To see the Proven 200 go to thread #1285 and 1387. On 1387 go to purchase and you will see the price of $143.00 also if you go to search put ccv and you will learn all about the oil catcher. Do it it is a cheap insurance VW, Sprinter,BMW, all use it some other companies have their brand but the end result is the same.
  • "We have lost several jobs due to thier cheaper pricing, the quality wasn't there, and we have brought some of that work back in. The safety factor does play a major role in the suspension components and ..."

    Nothing new, ask us old timers from the rust belt. Screw and bolt companies succumbing to inferior products with false rockwell numbers. Wire nails made from soft as lead "steel" that bent if you looked at them. And calls for the end to unions and protection of professional workers earning a decent wage. You asked for your cheap parts and we got them. End users know what they are buying cheap and passing it on. But glad to hear you got some of your business back and I hope it continues for all of us.

    As I said months ago, I will pay for quality, I will pay so that someone earns a fair wage. We paid enough for our jeep. No, we didn't get $8,000 off sticker. Tells you how much money(quality?) is in the product.

    Yes, it is the opinion of some/many that some auto workers have been living high on the hog even when the lines are down. DCX was the first? to squeeze the suppliers and therein was it also for visteon(ford) and delphi(gm) and how many unknown suppliers.
  • whlpnywhlpny Posts: 10
    Zachinmi- I am up north of you on M-21- town of Pewamo. I just started to watch where the diesel pumps are this week as I'm getting into buying one of these. We have a Meijer here in Ionia so I should be set. There is a BP in Portland where I work- they have diesel. Also a Speedway- any comments on them? Looks like I won't have to chase for it.
    I have found a Sport with tow pkg down by Detroit- now I need to get there and drive it. Are you happy with yours in all other aspects?
    BallJoints again-- Mexico is a major player in the field here- when I said overseas- I shoulda said out-of country. We have a sister plant in Mexico that is stealing work from us- its scary. They use it as a constant threat. Problem with Mexico right now is they aren't up to speed with technology- but are gaining fast. One job we got back was one they couldn't produce with quality.
    Has anybody been able to see any kind of name on the ball joint caps- or lettering? All of out products are date coded and and stamped with the "TRW" logo. Lemforder just went out of business not too long ago - they were heavy in the auto end of the joint business. I'm wondering if it was some of thier junk. Would really like to know who made them!

    Bob
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