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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Hi winter2,
    The best way to destroy the torque converter is to drive long distances at 60 mph in 5th gear. This is what the local JEEP technician told me a long time ago when I asked to have the 163HP chip instead of the one I have...
    Local driving speeds are well above and below the shift point. In this case (only) manual shifting is better.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Caribou,

    In late 2006, Chrysler detuned the engine to save the torque converter in what is known as the "F37" recall. The recall took away about six percent of the torque in the hope it would save the torque converter from being eaten alive by the engine torque..

    For long distances, I generally drive between 62 MPH and 65 MPH and the engine does not feel like it is lugging. The quality of the shift now seems to have changed and is working it's way down to lower gears. I am getting firmer shifts lower down but the shift at 48 MPH and the shift at 57 MPH both have that "rumble strip" sensation but the 57 MPH shift has become a two part shift with a split second delay before full engagement.
  • Sound to me that you have too much oil in the engine.
    When you empty the engine oil put only six quarts do that because allways oil stay in the engine and if you put the right amount , you will be over fill.
    If you take the ccvc watch the O rings, they are very bad to install, be aware the if you do not put the O rings well, it wil leak oil. If you think that the CCVC is bad buy a new one, they are not that expensive. and allways use a ProVent. also check your Turbo.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Nescomo,

    I have always put in six full quarts and twelve ounces from another and have never seen the engine overfilled. The level on the dipstick is always between the "MIN" and "MAX'.

    As to the CCVC, I believe it did fail. I have been driving for the past day or so with the oil filler cap loose and no oil has appeared around the CCVC. As to adding a Provent device, maybe later on. First I need to have the trans evaluated to see what is going on in there.

    One question; is the CCVC available as an aftermarket part or is it still a dealer only part?
  • Do not forget to check your air filter for dirt.

    Nescosmo....
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    I use a K&N air filter. Just cleaned it 4000 miles ago after 18000 miles of use. Was dirty but not outrageous so.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    The dealer called me today and told me of two issues.

    1. The oil leak was caused by a blown rear main seal. How the oil got on the top of the engine I will never know. It leaked around the CCVC.

    2. Torque converter is toast and probably the front pump too. Had the F37 done in December of 2006. They replaced the TC at that time.

    I am going to speak with the tech tomorrow PM. and see what else he has to say. I would like to retain that nice firm shift if possible.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Winter2,
    Could you try to explain what "toast" means? Is it excessive wear of the clutch plates or destruction of the central element within the TC?
    You had given the name of a company proposing a reinforced component that could handle the extra torque. Even if you change this component, the lockup clutch plates remain the same ;)

    I have to admit, 5 years ago my local Jeep tech understood well the latent problem of automatic shifting under high torque.
  • Winter K&N filters are not good for the CRD lab your oil and you will see the results. The main seal issue is because too much oil or the oil pressure is too high. Ebay sells CCV, go to the dealer is not too expensive. Use a normal filter and maybe your back seal leak will go away. Try it for two month.
  • Caribou1.... Toast means: gone, finito, good bye Lola, Sayonara, Gone with the wind, useless, etc,etc,etc.

    Nescosmo....
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Nescosmo, nescosmo :(
    The torque converter unit and the set of clutches are two distinct parts of the transmission.
    The first can typically become out of balance after overheating and the second should trigger a high oil temperature warning signal before the gearbox gets damaged.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    How many miles (kilometers) did you have since the F37 to TC failure?
    Are you going with stock parts or aftermarket?
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    I had the F37 done in December 2006 or about 23K miles ago. What is so funny is that the original TC was fine when they removed it.

    As to parts, I am doing this under warranty (stock parts). Before the year is over, the trans gets the transgo kit. If the TC fails again, then I will put a Suncoast or other high performance part in.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Nescosmo,

    I have been using the K&N in my CRD for more than 24K miles. There is no oily film anywhere in the intake tube to the turbo and in fact it is spotless. I spoke to the tech sometime ago about the K&N and he said no problem.

    As to the oil, it gets changed every 5000 miles. I use Amsoil full synthetic 15W-40. It specs out like Mobil 1 5W-40 diesel motor oil except Noack is much lower.

    I will look on EBay for the CVCC.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Spoke with the dealer today and I should be getting my CRD back this evening. Items replaced included the torque converter which had overheated (turned blue) and surprisingly the rear main seal. That went for reasons unknown.

    Cost $0.00

    Thank goodness for extended warranties.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Winter2,
    Do you have skid plates?
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Caribou,

    No skidpads. I do not go off road, mostly highway, some stop and go.

    To update, got the CRD back today. The tech told me that the dealer that had done the F37, left out several bolts that hold the engine and trans together. Also, a bolt that holds an exhaust hanger to the CRD was also missing. Turns out that the dealer that did the F37 also replaced the front pump. Rear main seal was also leaking and that got replaced.

    Will be adding an auxiliary trans cooler in the near future.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Winter... what year is your CRD. If it is an 05 then you have 70k of warranty on the tranny.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    It is a 2005. I also purchased an extended warranty when I bought the CRD and it has already paid for itself.

    The tech did a great job. My CRD runs like a banshee and pulls up hills with a great deal more alacrity. The Florida shop who did the initial F37 must have messed something up. The CRD did not run this well after the FL dealer worked on it.

    I am going to watch my FE to see if it changes.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Where in Fla. I am in Central Fla. If it here like to know whitch dealer.

    Nescosmo.
  • Can you find out what the fix was that your dealer did? I have an 06 CRD with 34k on it and have big issues with the fuel economy. I have never even at hwy speeds 70-75 have never achieved over 21mph city 18-19. When I purchased this vehicle the claims were 22-27 hwy I guess that must have been at 45 mph. I keep up on fluid changes etc.. Please let us all know what type of fuel consumption changes you see with this fix. I had the F37 completed torque converter and transmission pump along with a reprogram of the computer. As far as the fuel ecomnomy no changes at all.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Nescosmo,

    The dealer is Arrigo Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep @ 6500 Okeechobee Blvd West Palm Beach.

    They will be hearing from me.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Okay,

    Now for some questions.

    1. Are you a lead foot when you accelerate from a stop?
    2. Have you changed the air filter yet?
    3. Which oil do you use and how often do you change it?
    4. Is the trans full of fluid (IOW is it full?)
    5. Are the hoses to and from the CAC in good order?
    6. Have you ever cleaned the boost sensor?
    7. Have you ever blown the EGR valve's "nose"?

    I generally travel at speeds not greater than 65 MPH. Once you start pushing this baby past 2000 RPM it starts eating fuel. At 75 MPH cruise I get about 25 MPG. At 65 MPH I get 28 MPG and at 60 - 62 MPH I get 30 - 31 MPG. I also use cruise control as this little guy loves to run.

    As for the fix, they changed out the torque converter and checked everything else. The TC had failed but was not blue as I was first told.

    Are you in Florida? On a trip back from southern FL, we were greeted by a couple in a white CRD near Jacksonville on Route 95. Might you be them?
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Today I saw a Grey CRD in Orlando at Orange Ave going south and turn on Sand Lake rd to the air port.
    Please respond if you are around this forum.

    Nescosmo.
  • I have a 2005 CRD and getting pretty much the same gas milage as winter2. And this is for highway in sothern Kentucky and Tenn.
  • Got EGR number two at 47000 miles (first one was at 18000).

    It runs differently (better) and strangely, the shift points have migrated from 62 to 61 and from 53 to 52. When I get it into the highest lockup it now stays in that gear all the way down to 56-57 mph. The lockup at 61 used to be a little bump and now it is smoother.

    Mileage is the same as before.

    So the EGR situation can apparently affect the transmission shifting.
  • Does not seem to be much interest here anymore but I thought I would post my feelings here about my recently purchased 2006 CRD Limited. In short I love it. Just got home from a picture taking tour of the fall colors around West Virginia which included about 65% two lane roads going up and down the mountains and about 35% interstate. Close to 400 miles with an amazing 28.8 miles per gallon, I truly believe straight interstate would deliver 30+

    dusty
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    This engine is fed with fuel according to a predicted acceleration under a given load. When the EGR doesn't react promptly, the acceleration isn't right and the shifting sequence is 'hesitating'. Mine has over 80,000 miles and shifts perfectly because I got rid of my EGR a long time ago. CO2 emission and fine dust particles are lower than advertised according to technical inspection every 2 years :shades:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Caribou,

    Does the inspection include measurement of NOx (Oxides of Nitrogen)? The EGR is used to reduce that pollutant.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Winter2,
    Not yet, my model year 2003 is just at the limit :blush:
    I don't have any Lambda sensor before and/or after my catalytic element. Mine is only a diesel :blush:
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