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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    The RFE 545 trans is a pretty solid transmission. The only weak link is the torque converter which the engine will eat alive. Has your CRD had the F37 recall? Have you been keeping up with fluid changes? Also, Transgo has a couple of shift kits to resolve some design issues in the RFE 545, including how it shifts. I am putting one in my CRD in the next few months. I prefer a firmer, faster shift over what Chrysler has given us here.

    In my previous vehicle, a 1993 Dodge Dakota 4X2, I had the trans rebuilt and had a kit put in. What a difference it made. The shifts were quick and firm and the rear wheels would chirp at each shift under hard acceleration. I am not looking for the same on the CRD but I want a firmer and faster shift.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    I've had the F37 recall. Lost 10 mpg. The recall raises shift speed to 64 mph to get into high gear. If you have not done the recall DON'T. The torque converter has plastic vanes inside. The idiot Chrysler engineers should be fired for stupidity.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Somebody must have fouled something up when they did the F37 recall. I did not lose any fuel economy at all, just a little pulling power when climbing steep, long grades. The shift points remained the same with the final shift/TC lockup at 57 MPH.

    There is new code that goes with the F37 so I am wondering if the tech who did the work fouled something up.

    I am on TC number three. The TC is the weak link in the drivetrain. When the 7/70 on my '05 goes away, I will be replacing the Mopar TC with a Suncoast, PATC. or ATS TC plus I will add a shift kit.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    What is the code that goes with the F37? Does the Suncoast have plastic in the TC? My 5th gear goes in at 53 mph. Around town at 40 to 45 mph the engine is taching about 2100. This is the main reason for lousy mileage.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    The code or software that comes with the F37 recall detunes the engine by 6% and also modifies how the clutches in the TC engage/slip.

    The torque converters I mentioned all have furnace brazed metal fins and either Kevlar or carbon fiber clutch facings. One of them has multiple clutch disks, but I cannot remember which one it is.

    Total TC lockup should be at 57 MPH. At 53 MPH, you have only partial clutch engagement. If the engine is turning 2100 RPM at 40 MPH, then there is something else going on. Check to make sure the trans fluid level is up to where it should be. Also, when the recall was done, was the front pump in the trans changed out? If not, this could be part of your problem. Low line pressure from a weak pump is a problem.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    This morning I wondered how I could get 2100 RPM on the tach at 45 MPH and the only way I could achieve this was by locking out the overdrive which is denoted by a light on the left side of the instrument cluster. It is engaged/disengaged by a button on the shift lever.

    Are you inadvertently disengaging the overdrive?
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    With gentle acceleration to 45 or 50 mph, not touching the lockout, she'll go around 2100 plus rpm. 5th gear doesn't happen until 53 mph. The idiots at the Chrysler garage just tell me that this is the way Chrysler wants it.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Warren,

    You need to find another garage with a competent tech. They have the shift points wrong and or simply screwed things up when they did the recall.

    Call Chrysler and see if they will help you out. If you work with them and keep your cool, they will help. I understand your frustration, just do not let it get the best of you.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Posts: 59
    Hmmm. I tested mine and it is at 2100 at 45mph and 2500 when I disengage OD. I had overheating issues after the recall and my mileage dropped 3 mpg. I figured this was why, it mostly got hot on mountain roads where I was climbing and doing 40-45 mph. They did some kind of reprogramming to my temp gauge and I can't tell if that fixed it because we haven't done any mountain driving since. Trans fluid levels are normal and I'm up to date on the transmission fluid and filters change. Yes both filters, the flat one and the canister.

    I'm not as disturbed by all this because when I want good mileage I take my new Jetta TDI on the road and that can pull 50 highway in mid summer.

    My shift points are 52 and 61 for the lockup and it shifts into the highest non lockup gear at 35. Then it rolls right up to 52 in that gear. I'm interested in hearing from other folks what they are experiencing.

    The dealer rolls his eyes when I come in. They aren't welcoming, they're tolerant. After talking to other Jeep service departments (horrible) I'll settle for tolerant. I would buy another one but would need to interview the service managers at different dealerships before I would buy another Jeep. The service experience really can color your perception of a vehicle. Mine breaks down very infrequently but when it does I dread visiting them. Other cars I've had have had more trouble but because service is done well you kind of don't care. Not so with the crd.

    My problems with surging and bucking were solved when the Turbo was replaced (thank you extended warranty). Currently runs fine. My only complaint is that after only 68,000 miles the seat bottom on the drivers side is cracking and splitting. They want $500 for new cushion or I can have it reupholstered for $250 at a custom interiors place near me. Just think that kind of thing should last.

    Highway mileage is still good. It gets 23 on the highway when it's -15F and I've seen 31 on two cross country trips-- it was hot outside on both of them. Headwinds and tailwinds are a big factor.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    I am finding the information about the shift points you have as interesting as Warren9's.

    The tech at my dealer told me that I have the correct software update in the controller for the trans.

    At 45 MPH, the tach shows about 1800 revs (2100 if OD is locked out).

    It is interesting how a dealer service center can set the tone. I am perhaps fortunate to have a decent dealer with a good service department which allows customer access to the technicians. The diesel tech has taught me numerous good tricks and made good suggestions in terms of caring for the CRD.

    I am surprised at the number of people who have had to have turbos replaced. This is my second vehicle with a turbo and so far so good. The first one I had was a 1985 Dodge Daytona turbo and except for a couple of blown head gaskets and a broken engine controller, it ran fine. Turbo failure, for the most part, is due to improper care in the form of crappy oil and not letting the turbo cool down correctly.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    I am displeased with Chrysler and will never by another product from them. I change my oil every 2000 miles and only use Mobile Delvac 1300. I use that in my service truck which has a 7.3, weighs 12000 pounds, has 227,546 miles and has never had a problem. Once Ford comes out with a small SUV diesel the jeep is history.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    I am sorry that your experience with a bad dealer has left you down in the mouth about Chrysler. If you look around, there are plenty of bad Ford, Chevrolet, BMW, GMC and Mercedes dealers.

    If the dealer did not or has not delivered as they should, report them to Chrysler and the BBB and I am sure there are others who can help you.

    The Jeep Liberty CRD is not a bad vehicle but it is a little quirky. My CRD is now on it's third TC. I also had a timing belt pullet replaced because of a squeaking I heard. The belt was also replaced. I have also picked up a load of really bad fuel that my dealer took care of for me at no cost. I am on my third set of intake hoses but these have lasted nearly 40K miles. A trick that the tech taught me has helped.

    As to using the Delvac oil, which is not a synthetic, that is your choice. However, should you have a component failure and Chrysler finds this oil in the crankcase, the warranty on component would be null and void. Any manufacturer will kill the warranty on a component(s) if the owner uses items not in the owner's manual.

    As to your Ford 7.3L, is in my view is the only real diesel Ford ever put in their trucks. The 6.4L and 6.0L are horrible engines, basically garbage.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    The 7.3 is pretty much bullet proof. The others are not much. My local dealer has no problem with my Delvac. The dealer is fine it's Chrysler that refuses to admit they used the wrong TC behind a diesel. Three times I've written them and 3 times they did nothing. The Italian diesel is a great piece of machinery. The boilers and burners I buy are made just down the street from Motori. Talking with people over there, these Libertys are getting well over 35 plus mpg. It's all in the computer. Chrysler did not put the proper drive train behind a great little engine.
  • nottowaynottoway Posts: 67
    Amen to the ford small SUV diesel....My CRD will be over a cliff...What a piece of junk.
  • nottowaynottoway Posts: 67
    Manual says to replace timing belt and pulleys at 100,000 miles. I thought the CRD had a chain??
  • My 06 CRD has been good, not perfect, but certainly a reliable and sturdy vehicle with tremendous off road and winter skills. Our Jeep dealer has an excellent diesel guy who knows what he is doing.Therefore no service issues. I have had the transmission recall with no problems, It delivers great fuel economy and pulls a trailer with ease. It has been a good 4 years.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    I do have a computer Guru working on a program to restore transmission shift speeds and bring engine up to Mfg's. most efficient curve. If all else fails I'll try to find a tighter gear ratio for the Liberty.
  • Hello Ed,

    Give you $1000 for your CRD before it reaches the cliff! He he. I have had mine since 2005 and after I found the right mechanic and info never had a problem again. I have 170K on it and I get 31 MPG hiway and 27 MPG city. :)
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    As to the oil question, I contacted V.M. Motori shortly after I purchased my Jeep and asked them about which oil to use. Their response was basically that a synthetic was a must.

    As to the transmission, I agree that the TC is the weak link in the system, but like every other auto manufacturer including Ford and Toyota, they will use the cheapest component they can get away with. The rest of the trans is a stout piece of equipment.

    And as to Ford bringing a diesel (small) SUV or pickup to the U.S., forget it. It is not going to happen. Ford will keep their small diesels in Europe. The American public is to stupid to appreciate the economy of a diesel even if the fuel costs a bit more. And yes, the 7.3L was a good engine. The succeeding PowerTrash diesel engines are trash and need to be pushed over a cliff. I find Ford's engineering prowess to be lacking when you need to remove the whole cab from the truck to work on the engine.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    We like ours except for the lousy mileage after the F37 recall. What state are you in? wmco@midcoast.com
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    That's why the newer Fords have 4 bolts and an electrical connector.
  • jek443jek443 Posts: 12
    The most I have ever gotten is about 27 mpg @ 70 mph (highway), Would you mind sharing your mechanic's contact information? Any information you could share would be great. My Jeep is a 2006 Jeep Liberty....

    Joe
  • So what do I have to have done to my CRD to get 31 mpg? I like it, but I'd love it if that was the case.
  • nottowaynottoway Posts: 67
    I may take you up on the offer after next week he he
    Finally found a dealership in Az (where I bought the CRD) who had parts,tools and Tech to replace timing belt for $1,500. Called around SoCal and out of 3 dealers one said his tech could do it for $750. I drove to the dealership to meet with the Tech and tell them what I was quoted in Az. Wanted them to make sure they had the tools and knew what they were getting in to. Tech is a diesel specialist but has never changed the belt on a CRD.
    I gave them the VIN number and told them to research over the weekend and if they were confident they could complete the job to call me Monday.
    If anyone has had to replace their timing belt, please relate your experience to me. A $750 difference is a lot of Coors Lite !! Plus two nights in hotel, 600 mile round trip, rental car, meals,ect...Thanks, Ed
  • nottowaynottoway Posts: 67
    I want to see that post too----lucky to get 20 mpg combined !!
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    Seems that the Liberty sucks for mileage after the F37. I have the dealer service manual on CD. Will check on the timing belt. I do all my own maintenance. But, the belt comes under my extended warranty, will have it changed before 60,000.
  • nottowaynottoway Posts: 67
    Will they change your Timing Belt at 60K even though the manual reccomends 100,000??
    If they will, that would be great, because this is an expensive maintenance item.
    I had the 70,000 mile warrenty and was I lucky, had to replace entire rear differential because a scored shaft cause a seal to fail..I now have 126,000 on my 2006 because I usually drive over 50,000 miles per year when the economy is good.
    Any information on the Timing Belt is appreciated.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    Can't find the location on the CD for the belt but, the guys at the dealership are very good. They have the info if I need it. They have only serviced mine plus a few others. Diesel Jeeps can not be sold new here in Maine. I traded an brand new Magnum in for this Liberty. I will get the info on the belt. I will not believe it's that difficult. A Mercedes is a piece of cake but, a filthy job oil wise.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    What kind of information are you looking for?
    When the dealer changed my belt at 60,000 miles the technician removed the fan plus shroud without disconnecting the A/C. This left a twist in the aluminum pipes where they pass underneath the thin steel cover/profile that runs across the engine compartment. I don't know if he was small enough to get in there but nothing else was taken apart :)
    You need to maintain in their position the 3 main pulleys before you loosen the timing belt. I once saw the sketch of a dedicated tooling to do this and I remember that the two lower balancing shafts were not related to the crankshaft position. I could be wrong here...
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    I found the place on my Liberty CD for timing belt. Following the directions it's a very simple but time consuming job. I think a max of 6 hours plus $250 for belt then AF. I'd change those belts all day long for that quoted price of $1500.
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