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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • axelf66axelf66 Posts: 17
    STANDARD PROCEDURE - LOCKING ENGINE 90 DEGREES AFTER TDC
    1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
    NOTE: Rotate the engine by the front crankshaft bolt until the line next to the bolt in the front crankshaft
    hub reaches 12 oclock. Rotate the engine another 1/4 turn to the right, or the three oclock position. This will
    assist approximating the location of 90 degrees ATDC.
    2. Rotate engine by hand until special tool VM 1080 can be install through the engine access hole, locking the flex
    plate and preventing crankshaft movement. This locks the engine at 90° after TDC.
    3. Remove engine cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
    COVER - REMOVAL).
    4. Remove EGR valve and EGR cooler to exhaust
    manifold retaining nuts.
    5. Reposition EGR valve assembly out of way.
    6. Remove plug in cylinder head cover/intake
    manifold.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    I think this special tool is nothing more than a glorified piece of drill rod. If I can't convince my Chrysler guys to change the belt before my extended warranty runs out I'll change it myself using drill bits. If this happens I'll let every one know. I am going to have the computer reflashed just in case they screwed up the first time. My mileage still sucks.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    The only time I got mileage that low was very cold weather and lots of deep snow to push around. I change oil around 6000 mi.

    Does your temp gauge come up to just below 1/2? Mine had a bad thermostat for the last few years, mileage is up 1-2 mpg.
    Have you changed the fuel filter recently?
    Have you cleaned the boost pressure/intake air temp sensor?
    How is the power-can you lay rubber once the turbo winds up?
    Have you run any injector cleaner through it?

    You should get in the low to mid 20's unless you really rod it.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    Temp gauge just below 1/2. Once warmed you can snap your head on hard acceleration. Fuel filter changed every 15,000 miles. Biggest problem is around town driving. RPM,s to high between 45 and 50. Highway is 22mpg. I'm going to have the Chrysler folks run the F37 program through again and see what happens.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Posts: 153
    Hi jek443 ,
    Your lucky to have bio diesel , It isn't here in Canada yet.
    You'll find that the oil stays cleaner longer as well
    If you have a summer set of low rolling resistance tires , using those over a set of mudders will help your mileage .mudders usually suck about 2 mpg . they are sticky , and have it's uses , but so is having a summer set of tires for just going to the store as well. but I would only use them for dry pavement .
    Driving 70 mph you'll find you won't get better than 26 mpg . This is because of your RPM's are over 2000.and your winding up that turbo.drive 55mph and save 20%. and keep those RPMs down. the trick is to not be in a hurry .
    Let the low end Rpms and torque from the engine do the work.
    also if in a hilly region , your constantly using the fuel pedal to compensate. this will definitely hurt your over all mileage but it is still be better than a truck.
    good luck.
    Lightnin3
  • jek443jek443 Posts: 12
    Actually, the best results are w/ 95% petroleum diesel w/ 5% bio-diesel gives the best of both worlds.
  • elder2elder2 Posts: 16
    Traded my 01 Durango w/4.7L & 15-18 MPG for a CRD on Feb 15, 2005. EGR was replaced @ 19k, F37 @ 24k. F37 enabled me and everyone else who drove it to start from a stop without chirping the tires [yeah, the stock GY Wranglers were bad]. MPGs dropped a little and it was a bit slower, but still plenty responsive. Did the elephant hose, added a boost gauge, use Rotella 5-40 syn. MPG has been 22 city, 29.5 hwy, all around 26. I add cetane boost/ inj cleaner & 2-3 oz of 2 cycle oil each fill. At 70k it has been reliable and fun to drive. No more EGR problems. I plan to keep it has long has I can drive. With that in mind, I checked into timing belt & water pump availablity. NAPA has the belt, water pump, tensioner, and pulley has a kit for around $250. I bought it, but won't install it myself until 120k+. I replaced the little air filter under the vaccuum control soleniod for the turbo recently & noticed alittle stronger & quicker response. Also have installed a FOMOTO valve for clean & easy oil changes. I flat tow the liberty behind my motorhome [we are full time RVers] with a Road Master Even Brake system in the Jeep so the brakes have approx. 95k. I'm thinking of doing a brake job soon. Still have matterial on the pads thu. I think that some of the problems are built in, some caused by lack of understanding & training on diesels by dealers & the American public at large, and by a high performance diesel that is easy to hotrod that doesn't have the power train behind it to match. I also think you need to learn how to do the basic maint. yourself or find a good diesel mechanic you can trust. Been reading this forum since the start. Very enlighting.
  • cdp3cdp3 Posts: 4
    I have a CRD with 50,000miles. It has been running like a dream until yesterday. I was on a long trip when the engine light came on and it felt like it had about 1/2 the power from normal. I stopped and let the car idle for a while, turned it off and disconnected the wiring the the air cleaner thinking it might control the egr valve and it came back to life. It did two more times in the next two hours. Engine light stays on but runs allright. Any ideal what this is? I took it by the local dealer and he hooked up the computer and said it was an evap (vacuum) leak and also a com pos sensor. Has anyone replaced the sensor themselves and can you tell me where it is located. Thanks
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    Did you mean "Cam Position Sensor"? Sensors are usually on the front of the block and very easy to replace. Do you have one of those diagnostic, hand held, tools? The one I have for my 7.3 is fantastic.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The motor oil question has reared it's ugly head once again. I purchased some Valvoline 5W-40 Premium Blue Synthetic oil. I contacted Valvoline to see if the oil was okay to use in the CRD. It is not!!! It does not meet MS-10725. I then contacted Shell about the new Rotella T6 Synthetic and they said their oil does not meet spec for the CRD either. In fact Shell does not have an oil that one can use in the CRD. or the the Jeep Grand Cherokee CDI. Even Mobil one 0W-40 barely meets MS-10725 while their 5W-40 does not.

    Valvoline recommends their SynPower 5W-40, part # 966. NAPA stores carry it. Shell, who owns Pennzoil and Quaker State has Pennzoil European Formula 5W-40 Synthetic and Quaker State 5W-40 synthetic that meet the spec.

    Amsoil has one oil, their 5W-40 European Formula and RedLine 5W-40 also meets the MS-10725 spec.

    If your CRD is under warranty, take this under consideration. If it is out of warranty, it would still behoove you to use the correct oil. If you have a failure and you have been using the correct oil, you might be able to get something off on the repair, even if it is out of warranty.
  • gymb2gymb2 Posts: 6
    I have a 2006 Liberty CRD that I purchased used in Jan. 2010 that has 45,000 miles on it.

    The automatic transmission does not engage immediately when I put it in gear. My auto mechanic said that there was a filter kit that was supposed to correct this problem so I had it installed. The problem has not gotten any better.

    Now it does not want to shift into the higher gears. This all happened when the engine light came on last night as I started for home. I attempted to turn the OD off and on but no change in shifting. I am attempting to get into the dealer but they are booked up for a couple of days.

    I am new to the forum and would appreciate any insight and advice.

    Since I knew that Jeep was going to put a diesel in one of their vehicles I wanted one. Now that I have one I am learning that it will take some relearning compared to my gas Liberty.

    Thanks!
  • lakelvrlakelvr Posts: 21
    05 CRD screems at speeds above idle. No sound with belt removed and all pulleys etc also turn freely and quitely by hand. Sound seems to come from rt fwd area of compartment (looking fwd). Was quoted $81.00/ea by dealer so am being cautious.
    Comments anyone?
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    I've been using Delvac 1300 in my Liberty since I got it. My dealer says no problem with warranty. It's done my 7.3 well for 231,000 miles. Of course I change oil in all my on road vehicles every 2000 miles.
  • I have a 2005 Liberty CRD which I love. I had the exact same problem. When cold as when I start in the morning the gears are slow to engage. There is a check valve in the tranny that the dealer replaced under warranty and it solved my problem. It makes since. The fluid was draining past this check valve and as it got warm it fills up again. Now I'm not a mechanic as you can tell but there is a check valve. Have them check it.
  • gymb2gymb2 Posts: 6
    Thank you for the info. I will have my mechanic check into it. You described my symptoms exactly. I am afraid that my CRD is out of warranty. I really like this rig. Thanks again.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    I have been using the Rotella 5W40 that my lube place carries.
    I am at 181000 mi and it runs just fine.
    I am not totally sure that every last spec requirement is that important.

    Under warranty, I would agree as they can be very touchy.
  • lakelvrlakelvr Posts: 21
    At the second visit the noise was diagnosed by dealer as an air leak between turbo and intake. At the first visit the service rep at the dealer somehow told me everything was normal but he either didn't communicate with tech or didn't like me or didn't care because I asked to talk to the tech and he had no doubt what the problem was or any reticence in discussing it. This also accounts for loss in mileage. Must take it on the road and hope for no further degradation before scheduled fix on 7/19. We will see!
  • 2crd2crd Posts: 1
    I recently had a problem with loss of power and severe engine vibration with my '06 Liberty CRD. My dealer spent 3 months trying to solve the problem. The first guess was a bad transmission. New tranny with no positive results. They sent the injectors to Chrysler for testing. Turns out severe carbon build-up. Replaced the injectors and the car runs fine. After 5 tanks of fuel the best MPG has been 19 (+-) at 100% highway, 65 MPH on flat Interstate with one person and no additional weight. This vehicle easily achieved 27 MPG highway before the problems started. In addition, my speedo now reads 4 MPH MORE than the car is actually traveling. I have checked this numerous time with a GPS. Is there any adjusting that can be done to get the MPG back to normal, and can the speedo be calibrated for a more accurate read? The 19 MPG I am presently getting is based on the false odometer reading. It is actually less than that.
    I also have an '05 CRD that consistently rings up over 27 MPG highway and the speedo is dead on.
    2crd
  • gunnar2gunnar2 Posts: 11
    hello jeep experts,
    i think i've seen this come up before. i was just at the dealer and he says my drainpan threads are shot and that he needs a solution for removing and replacing the drainplug that will be secure. he mentioned oversize plugs. are they are viable solution to this problem? is that solution only a short term fix? has anyone had to replace the entire pan? any experience/advice relating to solving this problem would be much appreciated.
    thanks,
    gunnar2
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Posts: 59
    A new pan installed was estimated for me to be about $1000. It's not an easy fix.

    The pan is soft aluminum and is easily ruined. My dealer messed mine up on the very first change and weaseled out of taking responsibility. The plug failed completely at 36,001 miles.

    I had a Precision Tune near my house help me with this. They bore out the hole rethreaded it and installed an oversized plug that uses a regular wrench now for about $40. It has lasted five going on six oil changes and it seems fine. To reward them I have had them do all my oil changes going forward.

    I've had to go back once or twice because everyone's afraid to over tighten it including me. They just crawl under and give it a tighten and we wipe it off. We're really careful with it.

    The longer it holds the longer I'm saving $1000. If it gives out again, I may pop for it because I still love this CRD. Currently have a little over 70,000 miles.

    I have a lifetime supply of new gaskets in a ziplock and I put a new one on with each change just to be safe.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Posts: 59
    mdamick this is good to know. Thanks for posting.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    The dealer can reprogram the speedometer-I have seen that several people have had this done.
    As to the mileage, it sounds like you either have a leaky EGR or another intake issue.
    How is the power compared to before?
    You should check the turbo hoses, maybe one is loose or has a small hole.
    You might also remove and clean the boost/IAT sensor, if you have a functional EGR it can get really garbaged up and this will affect the boost a lot.
  • nor_starnor_star Posts: 1
    Hello Jeep-CRD experts;
    I've owned my liberty for 2 years and put 50k on it without any problems. The only concern was the soot produced during sudden acceleration for the driver behind me.

    The current problem started a few weeks ago. The day after a long drive (150miles or so) in the morning I realized the check engine light is on and the vehicle does not have power to go uphill or exceed 80 km/hr. (55 mile/hr). Being a sensor problem I disconnected the power (what I usually do with my gasoline car to get rid of electronic errors). The check engine light went off and the Jeep worked as good as before for a couple of hours before I turned the engine off, upon start the engine light came on again and the same story with power etc.

    I took the vehicle to the Jeep dealership in town. They performed the test and came up with "Turbo / Supercharger Underboost" diagnosis. The dealer said that they have cleaned the boost pressure sensor. They reported excessive carbon build up under the boost-pressure sensor (and perhaps in the EGR) and asked me to come
    back later for a major maintenance. I ended up going there a couple of times; but I think they do not have a diesel mechanic hence are afraid of touching it so they just waist my time and just are fooling around. My questions:
    1: Does anybody know a knowledgeable diesel mechanic in Toronto ( Canada) area?
    2: With the symptoms mentioned earlier (under boost, carbon built-up, probable sensor /EGR problem) has anybody have an idea about the ball park cost (min-max) to get things straightened again?
    3: I love my Jeep and I am ready to invest and learn basics maintenance. Is anyone aware of relevant DVDs/booklets, maintenance manuals, etc. available ?
    Many thanks in advance for your response. Please note, as I said earlier, I'm a just a student (but an interested student) in this.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    Find an crackerjack Ford diesel mechanic that has gone out on their own. I did and what a great help.
  • storageguystorageguy Posts: 30
    You may find some repair manuals on ebay, I have seen them there from time to time. You did not say if you were using a diesel fuel additvie. My smoking problem ended fairly quickly after using a good additive. A good mechanic should be found at a Chrysler dealership that sells and services Dodge Diesel Trucks.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,351
    edited July 2010
    I would check the turbo vanes actuator and the little solenoid valve that stands behind your air filter box. The vanes are moved by switching the vacuum on and off. Otherwise your boost pressure sensor could be clogged...
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Posts: 153
    I totally agree. One of the problems we commonly have is the EGR getting fouled up with carbon and soot. It is due to the dirty fuel we get at the pump . We are not at the fuel standards that Europe is at and that the Jeep was designed for. The use of Bio-Diesel burns cleaner and reduces the chances of this happening.
    Recently I have obtained a young Mechanic at a premium motors shop who is meticulous and is trained in diesels , who understands them thoroughly.
    He is the type of person who is willing to do the dirty work .not just change parts but clean them .
    For example When he found I was getting the engine light on it was a an EGR not responding and opening up fully to gain boost pressure..so he replaced it and also "cleaned out the burnt fuel "recirculating tubing " that feeds the EGR because it 's purpose is to recirculate the old exhaust fumes of unburnt fuel and recirculate this fuel back into the engine intake for more power. This tube was full of soot and reducing the flow to the engine ultimately giving the nefarious engine faults.
    All of this went away after the tubing was blown out and EGR was replaced.
    The service to disconnect the tubing and clean it out was $100 . and needs to be done once a year if you want peak performance. Kind of like a tune up for a diesel.This will extend the life of the EGR ..and increase performance .
    Hopefully the use of Bio -Diesel will reduce the soot .
    good luck
    Lightnin
  • elder2elder2 Posts: 16
    I added a turbo boost gauge so I can tell If the turbo system is working correctly, especially if the engine performance drops. My wife hit a deer and the inter-cooler cracked & leaked. I knew right away I was loosing turbo pressure by the low gauge reading. I added one to my diesel motorhome also. For the most accurate reading, the hose to the gauge should be mounted on the intake maniford or as close as possible to it. I drilled & tapped a hole in the intake manifold on mine. Occassionally check the turbo hoses & clamps for cracks & looseness. Keep em running!
  • elder2elder2 Posts: 16
    I worked my way thru college as a motorcycle mechanic. I saw alot of stripped aluminuim threads. The solition makes it stronger than new. It is called a Helicoil & is available at most auto parts stores. It allows you to restore to the origanal size hole & threads so there is no need for oversizing. A Fumoto Valve is a good investment as it replaces the drain plug and makes oil changes a snap. This device is widely used in the trucking industry. I installed them on my CRD and my diesel motorhome. Google Fumoto & Helicoil & good luck.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,351
    The "Helicoil" is the nicest solution, but be careful not to make a large countersink to engage the special tap (tool that produces the thread that homes the Helicoil). Our copper washer is only 2mm wide and this is practically the thickness/height of the Helicoil.
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