Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Liberty Diesel

1354355357359360373

Comments

  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    I am soon to take Possession of a 2006 Liberty limited CRD. I want to buy a ECO tune as soon as possible. I have ruled out the plug in box's and will be sending in the computer. I have narrowed it down to 21 Companies, In Motion and Green Diesel. In Motion is $350 and Green Diesel is $450. Both sound good green diesel has alot more information on their website but if IN MOtion is similiar and $100 less, I might as well go with them.
    I would appriciate any comments on both Tune Companies.
    Thanks: Bob
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    I have the GDE Eco Tune and Trans Tune.
    I am quite happy with it. My mileage is up about 15%. :)
    The only issue with the Trans Tune is that in the hills it can upshift a bit early.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    I see their eco tune is $450 how much was the transmission tune?
    Have you installed the stronger torque converter?
    I see many are putting in Transgo shift kits, which all are happy with. They are either $59 or $95 depending on the kit. Seems like a good first step.
    Thanks: Bob
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    I caught the spring special for about $700.
    I have a newer TC but not the Euro. It seems to be working OK
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    unclebob9,

    The big difference is fuel milage, ECO tune will be about 4-6 MPG better. My first tank I got 4 MPG improvement at 70MPH and a heavy foot because the extra power was fun.
    Now if you have a replacement TC like Suncoast or the Jeep's EURO TC (from the Diesel Wrangler) then they have a FULL TORQUE ECO Tune with does not limit the engine's torque to 280 ft-lbs when in overdrive and TC is locked, you get 335 ft-lbs (1800 RPM). They also have a HOT tune with 200 HP and if I remember, 365 ft-lbs torque. GDE has a new turbo kit for even more....
    I also looked at the InMotion program as it was $100 cheaper but GDE's also improved milage which my research on the web didn't support a milage increase of the InMotion program. I drove up to GDE to have the program installed.
    Now I just have to save-up to have the TC replaced so I can have the FULL TORQUE upgrade.

    Since the reprogram I have noticed:
    NO BLACK SMOKE at all
    Quicker acceration (they claim 1.5 seconds 0-60 MPH)
    Increased milage (fill to fill as I have a sport model)
    Better trailer towing (18' hardside camper near 4400# loaded)
    Can squeal tires on pavement (locking axle and Firestone A/T 235R-17)
    Improved drive-a-bility in daily driving.
    It does sound a little more like a diesel than it use to....
    Oh the gas gauge is more linear and the temperature gauge is more accurate. I did notice the speedometer is now reading 1 mph less then my GPS says which wasn't the case before....
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Thanks, great information. I was leaning towards the green diesel eco tune anyway, just needed some justification for the extra $100.
    The Transgo shift kit, I have also read lots of positive reviews on. They have 2 versions one $55 and the other $95, have yet to call them to find out the difference.
    between them, I will probably do this while my computer is sent to GD.
    It also supposedly increased MPG a bit.
    I have not been able to find a Cold air intake system for the Liberty CRD so far. I may end up building my own as I had to do for my 92 Dodge cummins. It gave the Dodge 3 more MPG and a little more power.
    Bob
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    Unclebob9,

    You mean like a Safari SS1135HF snorkel is tough and stylish and has been designed to deliver a huge volume of the coolest and cleanest air possible into the stock air cleaner assembly of the powerful KJ Jeep Cherokee CRD.

    http://www.safarisnorkel.com/snorkel/ss1135hf/ss1135hf.htm

    Many CRD owners change -out to the V6's air intake for increased air flow.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Interesting, I did not consider a snorkel. But I will now. I hate the idea of cutting into the fender to install it, and I would be concerned about some drunk kids in a parking lot tearing it out. but definitely worth thinking about!
    I actually built something similiar for my 40' diesel pucher motorhome, it now has Ram Air thru the roof. It's interesting how much it effected the shifting patterns and I would bet I gained 50hp with it. Does this snorkel hook into the stock air box?
    Thansk: Bob
  • I am new to the forum. We have 4 Liberty Diesels with an average of 125K miles. We are having a lot of problems with starting, coolant loss and turbo issues. We have 20 cars and trucks in our fleet and do most of all the work ourselves. I am having a hard time finding good shop manuals for the 2005 and 2006 Liberty diesels. We need electrical and mechanical manuals. Can anyone suggest a place to get these.
  • crash227crash227 Posts: 43
    I own and maintain four personal vehicles, one of which is a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD with 105k miles. I do all of my own maintenance on my Jeep and hope to be able to keep it going for several hundred thousand miles. The CRD requires significant knowledge & effort to keep running properly but I am generally very happy with my CRD despite the many problems & 'buy-backs" that have been reported in this forum. Most of the really good information about my CRD has come from participating in this forum. You have come to the right place in my opinion.

    The $20.00 Chiltons and Haynes service manuals (I have many) are good for basic information, but what you really need is the Factory Service Manual created by the manufacturer.

    I have had great luck finding Factory Service Manuals on E-Bay. I have purchased several full sets in great condition for as low as $45.00 for my daughter's 2004 Dodge Stratus. I have the CD/DVD Factory Service Manuals for my Jeep. It is nice to have the paper books, but with the searchable electronic version finding what you need is faster. Then you can print only the secitions or pages you need for each repair job. All of my paper manuals eventually got dirty & stained because I almost always need to refer to it while doing the work.

    Good luck with all those CRDs.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    There is a CD version on EBAY now for about $12 and a 3 manual set for $199 (or so). Amazon.com has the same set for $179 (there-abouts).
    With 4 jeeps, I would go for the $179 set If I had 4 of them. I am most likely going for the CD for now but I will eventuallly break down and spent the big bucks.
    I jsut bought my CRD.
    Take some time and read the positings here, there are several little upgrades that increase power, MPG and extend service times.
    Best of luck: Bob
  • mrmag00mrmag00 Posts: 16
    edited August 2010
    James:

    Here is the link for the 2006 service manual:
    http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2006-KJ-SM.pdf

    There most everything you will need in there.......
    Be patient it takes awhile for it to load..... 140M....

    Have a hunt around their site you may find more....
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Thanks James, it is a GREAT thing to have, and hard to beat the price!
    I played with it for about an hour, While I still prefer the hard copy, for the $200 price difference, I will ry really hard learn to use this one.
    I fly back to pick up my 2006 crd next Thursday. It's in O'Dessa, Tx. which is 1500 miles from me. I have never driven a CRD before, so we will get aquainted very fast!
    Thanks again: Bob
  • mooncrdmooncrd Posts: 1
    2005 crd 133000 miles straight pipe mass air flow sensor not hooked up more power never smokes 28 mpg bought new great jeep round trip to work 144 miles
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Just smear a little on the metal part of the connector (or spade) before plugging it together.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    I used to have this problem with my 66 GTO and now with my 2000 Cherokee. What it was and is for both vehicles is a bad connection at the firewall where the electronics plug in to each other at the firewall. I wiggle the wire a little and all is fine until the next time.
    Just something to try
  • lippslipps Posts: 10
    Good Morning:
    I have a 2005 Liberty CRD with 120k miles. Last evening, while at a stoplight the oil light came on. When the engine rpm was increased to about 1200 the light went off. When I got home I changed the oil even though it only had 3700 miles. It was 100 degrees here in Houston, don’t know if that has anything to do with it.
    Any thoughts?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Are you using the recommended oil and filter? Did you change the filter as well?
    If so, I would check the sending unit for connection and cleanliness. and possibly replace it. Thr hotter it gets the thicker the oil gets. But 100 in Houston is not unusual.
    Is the temp reading in the normal range when this happens?
    Bob
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    As most of us know, the CCV (looks like a hockey puck) sits on the valve cover at the back of the engine. I recently had visited my local dealer and spoke to the diesel tech about some oil leakage from the CCV.

    The tech suggested that the CCV had some deposits in it and that this was causing the problem. Instead of replacing it, I learned that the CCV can be cleaned with a mild solvent like Castle Solv or brake cleaner. I did the cleaning on Sunday and there was some sludge or goo inside that the solvent removed. Once I reassembled everything I used a little Indian Head Shellac (gasket cement) on the hose that comes off the CCV to make sure there is no leakage.

    I have driven the CRD since then and I have noticed a couple of things. First the up and down idle in the morning is now gone and idle is actually smoother all around. Second, the turbo spools up faster and with more punch even under light acceleration and with the windows down you hear the turbo happily whistling away when you demand any kind of boost/power.

    When you pull the CCV, do it on a cold engine. You will need an 8mm socket and a flexible joint or a short extension to remove the rear bolt. There are three bolts that hold the CCV in place. When you remove the CCV, pull it out gently and be sure you retain the two O-ring gaskets. Clean the O-rings gently (no solvent), coat them with a high temperature grease and put them aside for now. Spray solvent into all of the openings of the CCV and swish it around to get rid of whatever sludge or goo you have in the CCV. Repeat until the solvent comes out clean. Put the CCV aside and let it dry. Do not try to open it or disassemble it ( the tech warned me about this). Once dry, put some of the same grease on the tubes that plug into the valve cover. On the valve cover, clean the two openings with a bit of solvent on a rag to clean the seats where the O-rings sit. Put some of the same grease in the grooves where the O-rings reside and then put the O-rings in making sure they are firmly seated in the grooves. Gently place the CCV on the openings and push firmly to seat it. Secure it with the three bolts and reattach the hose. Took me all of twenty minutes to do.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    From what I have learned, Chrysler no longer supports the use of Mobil 1 0W-40 in this engine. In fact, Chrysler now gets its synthetic oil from Pennzoil.

    I am using an oil from Europe called Lubro Moly. It is a full synthetic 5W-40 CF rated oil.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    I would check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge before doing anything else. You need ~15 psi at idle speed and ~40 psi while cruising; such oil pressures were considered safe during many years :)
    I have almost the same mileage on my CRD and I change oil + filter every 15,000 miles. I expect signs of wear at some point :confuse:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    edited August 2010
    Hi winter2,
    Why in the world did you choose Lubro Moly?
    35 years ago we got rid of this type of lubricant because once you start using it you must keep it. Piston ring wear became greater and those who went back to normal oil produced oil fumes. This was the oil chosen by Citroen in the 60's ;)

    http://antarama.free.fr/Documents_relook/04_02_huiles_antar.html
  • lippslipps Posts: 10
    Thanks Bob:
    It was the sending unit. replaced it ($71) and it all works fine.

    By the way for those on the forum who havent installed a Provent yet, they are worth their weight in gold! Helps with oil and EGR issues.
    Get about an ounce per 1000 miles that would have gone into the intercooler!
    Dave
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Caribou,

    I did not realize that there was a problem with Lubro Moly oils as you say. The retailer told me that Porsche drivers, turbo and non-turbo, swear by this stuff. At the Lubro Moly website, it even lists the oil I am using as one of the correct ones for the CRD.

    Based on your comments, I will switch to something else when I change the oil this weekend either Valvoline or Pennzoil. Both make synthetics designed for the CRD engine.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Winter2,
    Many Porsche engines were of "boxer" design, ie horizontal / flat cylinders. We can understand the need of a 'super lubricant' to reduce the effect of gravity in those cylinders. In the late 60's the 911S had thick chrome plating inside the cylinders where the piston rings came into contact. Diamond shaped oil retaining pockets were machined along the stroke of the pistons, and they did not recommend 'Moly xxx' at the time. The CRD engine is much, much simpler :blush:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Caribou,

    The Lubro Moly oil that I use is a straight synthetic oil. It does not contain the "super lubricant" you speak of, MoS2 or Molybdenum Disulfide. Lubro Moly still makes oils with this substance as part of the formulation and several are recommended for use in diesel engines including the one in the CRD.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Recently changed fuel filter at 75k miles and cut it open (last change 50k). Filter material was darker than one cut open at 25K miles in Aug 06. Unrolling the filter material revealed black crud along the complete length of one edge of 75k filter that 25k filter did not have. This doesn’t really mean that much. I was just expecting cleaner fuel today than 4 years ago.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    There are a few key points when fueling.
    1. Avoid stations that do not sell alot of Diesel.
    2. NEVER get fuel when the tanker is unloading into the stations tank. this stire up sediment at the bottom of the tank and you will pump it right into your tank!
    3. All it takes is one bad tank of fuel to clog up a filter, I got one once in a gas vehicle, although it had mcch smaller filters, I went through 6 of them before I got my tank cleaned out.
    bob
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Unclebob9,

    Tell me something that I have not read 100 times. I posted one observation, nothing more. Take it for what it is worth, or not.

    I attended a diesel seminar years ago and was told that the main reason for not filling up when a tanker is unloading is because the churning can cause the station pump to pick up water. I have never filled up when a tanker was unloading and I have never found water in my fuel in either of my diesels. What I found in my fuel filter was apparently small enough to get through the station filters. Hence, what is the definition of clean fuel?

    I was also instructed to avoid large truck stops that service over the road trucks because of the possibility of used oil being dumped into the station fuel tanks. One of the instructors was a retired oil company engineer. Does that make it true? I don't know. :)
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    edited September 2010
    Hi,

    I just replaced #4 glowplug in under an hour. Was not as bad as I thought it would be. Just make sure the engine is cold as you are working with an aluminum alloy head. Also, make sure everything is clean so no foreign material gets into the cylinder. Make sure you disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery.

    You will need the following items:
    1. Metric Socket Set with a 13mm socket and a 10mm socket (3/8 inch drive)
    2. 10mm deep socket (got one at NAPA for $5.00)
    3. Flexible joint for the socket set.
    4. One eight inch extension.

    1. Remove the hoses from the fuel filter.
    2. Remove fuel filter assembly and put it to one side.
    3. Reach under the intake and feel for the glowplug and wire. Once found remove the wire gently. Much of what you will do here is by feel as it is out of line of sight. You cannot get to this from the bottom. This job is done by feel.
    4. Placed the 10 mm deep socket over the glowplug, then plug in the flexible joint, then the extension and finally the wrench itself. Turn the wrench anti-clockwise to remove the glowplug. I loosened it and then turned the extension without the wrench. This went faster.
    5. Remove the glowplug and set it aside.
    6. Get your new glowplug and put a tiny bit of anti-seize compound on the threads. Place the new glowplug in the hole and start screwing it in using the 10mm deep socket. Screw in by hand until you can turn it no further. Attach the flexible joint, etc. and snug it down. Do not over torque.
    7. Re-attach the glowplug wire, re-install the fuel filter assembly and fuel lines. Be sure you purge all of the air out of the injection system before starting.
    8. Finally re-attach the positive battery cable.
Sign In or Register to comment.