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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • What's your mileage? How often do glow plugs go out?
    My 06 is in the shop now with the second glow plug out. 41,000 miles. Fortunately still under warrenty.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    The mileage on my CRD is nearly 73K miles. I had #2 glow plug replaced at about 62K miles under warranty. This one I did myself and I saved a bundle of money. I am dreading the failure of #3 as it is a bear to get at. #1 appears to be fairly easy to get at.

    Glow plugs fail when they fail. There is no time frame as to when they fail although age, electrical system health, and mileage are factors. In my first diesel, I replaced all four glow plugs every other year or 25K miles as at least one of them invariably would fail. Fortunately, they were easy to access and cost about $11 each.
  • Seems a bit strange to me, I have had my 06 CRD for 2 weeks (or less). Love the power, fuel miliage. What are the symptoms of the glow plug not working?
    I have had a 1992 Dodge diesel Pick-up since 8/91. I have never had a glow plug go out.
    Are these just junk plugs in the CRD or have I just been lucky?
    My Transgo kit should arrive this week, going to send the computer in for the Green Diesel as soon as they return from vacation. I have ordered my ARB Bully Bar Front Bumper, takes a Month to get here from Australia.
    My CRD, has 70k miles on it, I intend to keep it for at least 10 years and got it at a great price. I am going to trick it out ASAP and enjoy the benefits for as long as I can.,
    Bob
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    Your Dodge does not have glow plugs. Cummins uses a plate/mesh to heat the air instead of individual glow plugs like the CRD.

    The engine controller tests the glow plugs for internal resistance and if that starts to breakdown then the CEL comes on Each glow plug throws it's own code so diagnosis is easy, replacement interesting. If you wait for the plug to fail totally and the plugs are wired in series, then starting when cold will be a problem because none of the plugs will work.

    The glow plugs like the rest of the injection system is Bosch.
  • Thanks. Are the glow plugs only necessary in cold weather? And will the CRD start if they are all bad? (Just curious).

    Thanks: Bob
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    edited September 2010
    When all glow plugs go bad I once used "Start Pilote":
    http://www.laboutiquedutracteur.com/start-pilote-300ml-pi-671.html

    This is a spray that smells like ether. You spray the air filter element and can start a cold engine like if it was warm :blush:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    If it is warm enough then glow plugs are not all that necessary, but what you will have is longer cranking time to get the combustion chamber hot enough to ignite the fuel, especially with the first start of the day. If you go to a place where it is cold, then you will have problems.

    If you look at the oil dipstick, you should find a coiled wire with a plug on it. This is the block heater so that might help in cooler weather. I live just outside of Washington DC and if the temp is going to be below 20 F, I will plug my CRD in. I have started my CRD at 9F not plugged in and it did fine but it is easier on the engine if it is plugged in.

    Also, make sure the battery is in good shape. You do not need to purchase the Optima type battery as a replacement. I got a Dekka group 34 with 875 amps at 0F! I wanted more power, but nothing was available that would fit.
  • I sell the optima it is made in mexico the deka is just as good but more money plenty of power for the crd
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    When I purchased the Deka battery, it cost $40 less then the Optima installed.
  • I am no diesel expert, but I was told by a old backhoe operator never to use ether on a diesel. When he had starting problems he used rag with gas on it and held it in front of the air cleaner. And he siad this was not too good for a diesel either, but was less harmful than ether.
    For what it's worth
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    I agree not to use ether. I always opt for a fully charged battery and patience.
  • Back when I used to work on construction equipment as a mechanic, non of them had glow plugs and the only way to get them started on a cold day was to use ether. In fact the catapillers that we had actually had an ether canister mounted so all the operator had to do was to push a button and it would shoot a small amount into the intake.
    It got dangerous when they came out with glow plugs as they were actually in the intake heating up the air, then using ether could be explosive.... I would not use ether on a modern diesel.
  • my crd is making a a sound like the fan coming on then loses power, mech thinks turbo is working, but losing pressure . any ideas?
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    Sounds like you blew one of the CAC hoses.
    Not an unusual problem.
  • the optima retails for 154.00 dollars
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Synlubes,
    My Optima battery went bad without prior warning and put together with an automatic transmission this means you can't get a 'push' to restart your engine. Flat plate batteries usually show signs of weakness at the end of their lives and give you time to react. I bought a local make (Varta) also owned by Johnson Controls and sold for the price you mention:
    http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/publish/us/en/products/power_solutions.html
    My new battery is longer than the Optima so I had to saw off the two unused fixation grips. So far so good :)
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    My new battery cost $125.00 with installation and with charging system testing included.
  • After reading about so many people having air problems in their fuel system and the fix being a lift pump, I decided to put one in my 2006.
    I bought a used lify pump and fuel sending unit from a 2005 Dodge 2500 Cummings truck.( $100 delivered). I had to cut off the tab on the top (just used wire cutters) for it to fit in My CRD and I changed the float from the unit I took out to the one I was putting it. I also needed a 4 wire plug instead of the 2 wire existing plug (Plugs were the same just the original was missing the 2 wires for the pump). I took the plug from the inside of the old unit, took it apart and removed the 2 connectors from it and added them to my Jeeps wiring plug wiht 2 wired sopldered onto them. This gave me the 4 wire plug I needed. The Jeep is already wired for a lift pump, you just have to locate the wire under the drivers side,passanger carpet. Simple to tap into. Since I had to drop the tank anyway, I also decided to add a Sedimentator, which I located on the drivers side next to the fuel tank. What a sedimentator does is acts like a pre-filter (without an element) which catches water and debris prior to the main filter. Is is easy to drain and rarely needs to be taken apart for cleaning. It lengthens the time between main filter changes. I also intend to go with a finer grade main filter, to filter out smaller particles.
    Bob
  • looks like the diesel oils are finly moving to 5-30 for small diesels i have ran them in my crd always gm has a dexos oil for all gm cars and small trucks world wide it will be 5-30 already in all 2011 models
  • I think I remember seeing detailed instructions on here before "a couple years ago maybe" on how to remove the water seperator and change the fuel filter. Could anyone give me a link to the instructions please, I think it provided pictures also. Thanks
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    I saw that a well, but con not seem to find it now.
    I did put notes in my log book from that posting, here they are:
    1. Remove water sensor connector from bottom of filter.
    2. Disconnect 2 topside Connectors.
    a. Temp sensor = blue wire.
    b. Heater = Red wire.
    3. Loosen clamp on Fuel output line (Drivers side) out of top. Remove hose.
    4. Remove filter.
    5. Remove water sensor from bottom of old filter and install it onto the new filter.
    6. Install new gaskets.
    Install new filter (hand tight)
    Install hose and electrical connections
    7. Loosten air bleeder screw 1 or 2 turns (passanger side top).
    8. push pirmer until fuel comes out.

    That should do it! best ofluck: Bob
  • I don't know for sure, but your post just caught my eye as I am looking for answers for what just happend to mine. I was driving at about 70 miles an hour on I 95 and I heard a noise like someone stuck a playing card in the spokes of a bike. This noise got louder. I slowed down and began to exit when I I had a loss of power then a surge and BOOM then smoke. It's dead. My mechanic says that the cam busted and drove a piston right through the block, not before causing alot of other internal damage. I / we don't know what happend exactally, but I would check out that noise and loss of power as perhaps you can prevent what happend to me, just yesterday. I hope it works out for you.
  • nylibnylib Posts: 9
    Each morning, and sometimes when my 05 Liberty has been idle for several hours, my Low Coolant Warning Light comes on when I start it up and stays on beyond the standard 3 seconds. If I drive it for about 1/4 miles it goes out, but only if I travel this distance . I've checked the coolant reserve tank and it is up to the correct level on the plastic housing gage. The engine never over heats or moves from the normal operating level. Except for the light staying on for a quarter mile everything appears normal.
    Any thoughts?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    If you have a crack in the engine block or head gasket somewhere along the cooling circuit, exhaust gases can flush coolant away while the engine is cold and resume normal operation as the engine warms up. You could perhaps check the stiffness of the coolant hoses with the engine cold and compare as the engine reaches it's usual temperature.
    If a vapor lock is the cause of the symptom you describe, by removing the front grill of the vehicle you should observe a non linear temperature gradient along the height of the radiator. You must always have a continuous temperature gradient from top to bottom.
    When driving a 1/4 mile you cool the radiator and this sometimes helps to re establish the flow of coolant by gravity typically when the coolant pump is broken.
    If part of your coolant is lost, cabin heating should not be stable.
  • Get that sensor replaced if it is bad. Overheating a CRD = Dead Engine. My water pump leaked once and I lost enough fluid to overheat and kill the engine. No overheating on gauge, only the low coolant warning which I ignored driving at night in January with temps near zero. My only warning besides that light was the heater started blowing cold air. The #!%**! Hit the fan before I could get stopped on the shoulder of the xway. I got REALLY lucky and Chrysler gave me a new block and turbo. Don't take any chances with overheating a CRD.
  • I have an 06 CRD purchased new with 75,000 miles. Recently started hearing the "Rocks in a Can" noise at low RPM when decelerating to a stop. No noticeable noise when accelerating, no noticeable shifting problems and I get 25-26 MPG running at 65-70 MPH.
    Has anyone else experienced this symptom and is it the first sign of TC problems?
    Also, I have searched for TC recalls from Chrysler-Jeep and can find no mention of a F37 recall for torque converters.
    Any advice would be appreciated.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    If you haven't had the F37 recall done, don't. You will lose about 10mpg.
  • is the F37 un-doable? or a procedure to get the mpg back?
    2005 Liberty CRD
    Hans
  • gymb2gymb2 Posts: 6
    I purchased an 06 Liberty Diesel in Jan. this year with 41k on it. From the start it had a delay in engaging the automatic Tranny when I started it up after it has set for several hours or over night. Supposedly there was a filter fix to correct the problem, but that did not do it. Next, the dealer said that I had a leak and the reason for the delay was low fluid. Once that was corrected, I still have the same problem, absolutely no change in its behavior. Before I go back to the dealer, I would like to be somewhat informed and maybe even able to suggest a place to start for the mechanic. No suspicious noises' or power loss or low mpg numbers, 20 in town and up to 30 on the highway. Everything else about it I am real pleased. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • Coincidentally, my CRD is at the dealer since Friday for exactly this same problem! I have one more issue, shortly after the tranny has enough torque to get going, 100 yrds later I come to a stop-sign and the torque converter will not disengage and I have to press hard on the brake to stall the engine to a stop. This has been happening about 2 or three times a month and this is the second time my visit to the dealer. The first time they mentioned a service notice bulletin to inspect for debris on the tranny filter. They did that plus a tranny oil service (at my expense) and found nothing wrong. Lets see what they say now. Other than that, it operates well and I get 18/27mpg.
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