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Jeep Liberty Diesel



  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    For choosing the proper tires I think different situations call for different choices:
    - sharp rocks => an overall tougher tire construction,
    - rocky inclines => a harder and longer lasting rubber,
    - mud => an 'open groove' for easy evacuation,
    - sand => larger footprints to distribute the weight,
    - snow => high inflation pressure and thin tires,
    - ice => soft rubber and thin deep grooves or spikes,
    - grass => lateral grip, typically like the BFG T/A,
    - against perforation => higher load index,
    - rain => soft rubber with deep and wide grooves,
    - perfect dry road => slicks :shades:

    My original tires were different from the ones you get. They were called Goodyear Wrangler S4.
    I found them OK for:
    - snow, ice, rain and sand,
    acceptable for:
    - perfect dry road (they melted in one day at 85 mph!)
    miserable for:
    - perforation, rocks, mud, grass,
    dangerous for:
    - rocky inclines.

    To compare with my actual BFG T/A, I would say:
    they are OK for:
    - sharp rocks, rocky inclines, perforation, perfect dry road ,
    acceptable for:
    - mud, sand, snow, grass,
    miserable for:
    - rain,
    dangerous for:
    - ice.

    I have the impression I just described the S4 as a perfect all-year city tire :sick:
  • ucanfarmucanfarm Posts: 33
    Recently changed my fuel filter. Never seem to get the air out of the fuel filter so changed the Heater / water separator housing assembly. Listen to this. Primed the new filter assembly with clean fuel and started it. Unplugged the line coming from the tank and got ZERO fuel pressure :confuse: . The truck has been running on a vacuum pump system. Any body else have similar problems? Taking it to the dealer as soon as I get the truck cleaned up from the miscellaneous items that collect in the jeep.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    That is the way it work there is nothing wrong.

  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    The solenoid is grounded or open, check it out...

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    I changed the fuel filter in my CRD about two weeks ago. Took about forty-five minutes. Once reassembled., I primed the filter using the pump on top of the filter holder. I started my CRD, checked for leaks and it has been fine. No air in the system either. How many times did you pump the pump? Also, did you allow the pump to move it's full length and did you pump slowly when priming the new filter?

    The old filter was pretty dirty. Did not find any water or sludge in the fuel when I pulled the water sensor from the bottom of the filter. The sensor was also clean.
  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    Did you get the filter from the dealer?The mopar part here is 255 dollars.Is there an aftermarket filter available cheaper?Thanks,arvman...
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    A replacement fuel filter is available through WIX. Any parts store that carries Wix filters can get them. I just got one for $30. It was an exact replacement. The dealer wants almost $50.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    Could you please post the part#?
    This is the first I have heard that an aftermarket fuel filter is available.
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Got my filter at NAPA for $29.99 plus tax. It is a rebadged WIX filter 3674. Dealer wanted about $50 for the filter and over $200 for the water separater.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    It is a complete assembly. I paid around $84 from the dealer but the cost has come down.
    Your dealer is really trying to take you to the cleaners.
  • saiteksaitek Posts: 2
    I am new to this forum, but I could use a little advise. My 2006 CRD runs 30 secs, then quits and won't start.I believe it was winter1 who had a similer problem, but I could not find the post that says what he did to fix it. Also is there a method to retieve codes from a 2006 model on the odometer? Tried on/off three times - nothing. Had it towed to dealer - useless.
  • mrmag00mrmag00 Posts: 16
    We had the f-37 recall done and the dealer had a real time
    of it. Long and short they got it going.. However, about
    two weeks later my wife used her key to start the vehicle
    and it ran 30 sec and wouldn't start after that. Towed it
    to the dealer and they accused me of having another key
    cut which didn't have the security code. Told them I hadn't had one cut and it was my wife's key. They had
    to reprogram her key into the system too. So a word to
    all check that both keys work when a reprogram is done.
    Hope this helped.... Brian
  • At 58,000 miles I just replaced the original Goodyear ST's. I rotated them every 6000 miles and have the 5 year unlimited alignment contract with Tire Kingdom/NTB so they did an alignment at every tire rotation.

    I replaced the Goodyear 225/75-16 ST's with Goodyear 245/70-16 Fortera TripleTred's. I do a lot of highway driving, and was able to try them out in a severe thunderstorm the day I had them put on...they handled the severe rainstorm great and make the CRD feel and drive like a brand new vehicle. Living in the snowbelt of Pa., I am sure they will come in handy this winter.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796

    Welcome to the forum.

    To retrieve the codes, you need to turn the ignition off-on four times. Sometimes it takes several seconds for codes to appear on the odometer.

    As to the problem you mention, I had to have a software update at 683 miles that corrected a drivability issue. Recently I had a load of bad fuel that caused my CRD not to run at all, code 1093, I think.

    Sounds like you have a fuel flow restriction or else there is some air in the injection system. Try pumping the priming pump twenty times slowly making sure the piston makes full excursion each time. If you have any air in the system, this will push it out. Make sure all of the fuel system clamps are snug too.
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Diesel Farmer, I think you got more miles out of the stock tires than anyone else. Congrats! Mine are at 31,500 and I expect to be replacing them before 35,000. I don't consider myself hard on tires, and I usually get lengthy tread wear out of tires. (For instance, on the 2001 Honda Accord I used to own, the tires were still just fine - enough tread above the legal requirement to not raise any worries - at 60,000 miles when I traded the car.)

    You probably also have more miles on a CRD than most of us. Any comments on how it's been running, especially after you passed the 36,000 mile warranty eclipse?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    Zachinmi, I have to correct my opinion about the BFG T/A:
    - I put 42,000 miles on them and there is a bit over 1/4" thread left. This is nice for mileage.

    Yesterday I rotated them and found that a large fastener went right through the tire :(
    The sidewalls are bullet proof, but not the profile.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    Diesel farmer, can you still use chains with 245/70-16 tires?

    I just got my tire repaired. The fastener that punctured it was a 3/4" long self drilling metal screw. The mesh inside the rubber was not damaged :blush: :blush: :blush: , and the technician had a real hard time to drill and mill inside the tire for installing the rubber insert.
    Nice job :shades: Costs me 32 Euros plus tip, about 50 USD :sick:
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