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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Caribou - I was driving in an area that's super flat compared to your Alps, but I did see significant mpg differences based on speed:
    30mpg at steady 55mph
    26mpg at typical 65-70mph freeway
    24mpg at 75mph freeway

    Outside temperatures played a role too, but I have no influence on those.
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    Hey peoples ! Just checking in to brag about, well..... Perfection !
    Mar '05 Diesel Liberty still hasn't been to the shop.
    Any new issues I'm out of the loop on ???
    Thanks.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Zachinmi,
    Without being too technical I observed the following:

    - diesels that use flywheels are not sensitive to temperature :D
    - we usually get good mileage during summer holidays ;)
    - our daily obligations are often in city traffic :cry:
    - winter conditions cumulate low temp. and traffic :sick:

    In a year, how many days do you travel for pleasure :confuse:
  • I need to replace the driver's side front side marker light. What do I have to do, drill out the rivets holding the bumper cap?
  • steve05steve05 Posts: 52
    Amazing, my libby turned 36K and 600 miles and suddenly the power steering pump bleeds profusely. Also, last week, I bought new tires at 36k and 400 miles. While the tires were off, I looked at the brakes. Rear pads are COMPLETELY shot. Fronts look brand new. Call dealer - "Well - you ARE out of warranty, so we'll fix it, but it'll cost you. And the brakes? We replace lots of rear brakes. What's wrong with that?" Me - "Don't you think replacing REAR brakes indicates an issue with the proportioning valve?" Them - "No, why?" Me - "First time working on cars?" Them - "Sir - do you have an attitude problem?" Me - hang up, fix brakes, dropping Jeep off on Monday at a REAL mechanic to fix power steering issue. LAST CHRYSLER PRODUCT. Love my Jeep, but....
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Consider posting that in My warranty has expired. Now what?.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I believe it was VW that had the reputation for 2 sets of rear pads to one front, while others were going through 2 fronts to one rear just like tires (fwd-if one saved tire rotation expense). It seems to happening now to others. My initial thought is straight stopping from 60 to 0.
  • steve05steve05 Posts: 52
    Well, I've had a few days to "sleep on it" now, and this is the best I can console myself with: As I've not read on this forum any mention of rear brakes wearing out (yes, I know it's a DIESEL forum) I'll have to guess my situation is unique. The dealership I've been taking all my warranty work and oil changes to, is not the dealer I bought the jeep from, and the service manager probably is not aware of the several thousands of dollars I HAVE spent there on factory add-ons. His incentive is low and maybe he had a bad day. BTW - the rotors were trash too. Most of my friends are "backyard" mechanics, like meself, and none of us have seen rear pads go first. Ce la vie.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Steve05,
    Rear brakes wear according to your driving habits and the load on the rear axle. The CRD is almost balanced and the brake load proportional valve seldom needs to ask for assistance from the rear axle. On mine I hear the rear pads whistle when I apply the brakes, and by pulling the hand brake the sound changes. To set the play of the rear pads one needs to pinch the disc brake and let go by 3 notches in reverse direction. This makes the hand brake lever travel halfway up in its slot.
    I have rust but practically no wear on the rear rotors after 120,000 KM.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    I just replaced all 4 pads and rotors at 106000 mi.m
    The fronts were metal to metal and the rears were at 10%.
    I went in because I was starting to hear a noise from the passenger rear.
    I was told that the rotors are a composite and are designed to wear down with the pads-not a great design IMHO.
    I notice no difference in braking.
    Maybe something in your brake system is hanging up causing the back brakes to not release properly.
    My morning drive is mostly downhill, and I tend to wear out brakes rather fast, I was very impressed with the life on the OEM brakes. :)
  • Well, I read all the post on here. I started a few months back before I bought mine. It started with people talking about news of the CRD coming out. People ording one. Waiting. I was a little worried when I first saw 1000 posts but I really wanted the diesel and 4x4. I kept reading. I noticed people posting that didn't have a jeep or had a jeep and no longer had one and are still posting. Go to an aol chat room or something, jees.
    People post about minor stuff. I remember cars in the 60's and 70's that were wore slam out at 50k mile. "Never" did a car make 100k. It would flood out when it rained. Squeeked, rattled and were a real POS. Cadillacs, Buicks sedans, it didn't matter. People are spoiled now and have no experience to even change oil. You go to a parts house and girls are punching numbers and have no idea what the parts do. Guys had to be cracker jack mechanics before they got work at the parts house. Cars and trucks always broke down and crossing over parts was the standard of the day. Nothing stayed stock just to keep it running. Parts guys were like doctors, they knew soooo much about all cars and trucks. We are talking about working on the drive line all of the time. rebuilding engines and transmssions. There were no options like today. Now the computer tells you whats wrong and you get the part number from the girl and put the part on. Jees.
    My jeep split a blower hose after driving it for 3k miles. The girl at the parts counter at the dealer had it in stock and I put it on in 10 minutes. These cars are so reliable they should have girls in the mechanic bays too.
    It has 70k on it. I bought it in N.C., I flew up and drove it home. It is in nearly new condition. It is an amazing little truck.
    I went to a grocery wholesaler a few months ago and bought 5 gallons of VO and poured it in DINO 75/25 VO. Smells good, runs better with more power, smoother, more responsive, cleaner without all the smoke, increased mpg by 1.5, quieter. I then poured it in my boat with a four cylinder Perkins in a 43 foot trimaran then into my YM2200 Yanmar tractor. all was great then the price of VO jumps up to $6 a gallon wholesale. I'm still going to add the VO. American diesel is dirty unpurified crap compared to the euro fuel. All of the engines are just happier and so am I. Fortunately I don't drive to work everyday. I tried peanut oil like ole Mr. Diesel patented it for but I blew the turbo hose and got busy and really didn't notice any difference from the VO but the price of peanut oil is now 12 dollars a gallon. I'm going to take my tractor and plant peanuts, I can eat them, sell them and make fuel. Sounds good to me. This truck is worlds away from the trucks a decade or two or three or four ago. This VM Motori of Italy motor is great. VM has been making only diesels since 1943 and this motor is all over europe since 2001. Europe is 60% diesel passenger cars. I see why GM bought 50% of the stock in 2007 and will be putting them in the 2009 cts cadillacs. Hence the reason no 2007 CRD's. Roger penske is now CEO. I doubt they will be in America. I'm sure an American company will screw up the company.
    Anyway, complaining about taking your jeep into the dealer is funny to me. All of the dealers have always been that way. It's not the Jeep. If you can't do the work your self you should have a prius or a focus. A jeep crd that never leaves the road or doesn't have a towing backage on it is a waste. Like kids that buy trucks and jack them up with mud tires that never leave the road. If you can't turn a wrench, stop whineing.
    Mine has had all the recalls done, the joints, the TC, the egr. I get a kick out of the dealer replacing all these things for free at 70k or 100k miles. Back in the day we never heard of a recal and every part and option on the car was broke in five years no matter how much you babied it.
    The tc is the way it is because 300 ft. lbs of torque would give you whip lash everytime it shifted. The next time it happens I look forward to the sunpro tc and the transgo shift kit. Goody Goody. Clean the map sensor when you change the oil. It's one #4 allen, how easy is that?
    I didn't see any catrostophic failures anywhere about the CRD so I bought one. The egr? Filthy fuel. Brakes at 100k...your kidding right? Electric mirrors? what is that for? leave my mirrors alone. best thing that could happen. must be chicks.
    My son is so jealous I have to let him drive it.
    geeep...geeep...lol... :)
  • who should be the one to get to post msg 10,000 (or 9999 if that is a limit)
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    Not kidding-106000 mi on stock brakes. :D
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Mdamick,
    Do you have oil leak stains where you park? My parking area remains clean except for the air conditioning condensates that carry oily residues. That's all there is after 5 years :)
  • butchmanbutchman Posts: 24
    I have 05 CRD. At just under 36K I smelled something hot. The rear left hand wheel was hot. Rear brake stuck and shoe rubbing. Took it in - Service Writer smiled - been seeing that. Replaced left caliper, brake pad and the short brake line - charged DC. Everything went well and then at 55K I smelled something hot. The rear right hand wheel was hot. I am out of warranty...Got relatively large screw driver, laid down on the cement and "carefully" found a place that I could leaver pressure against caliper. Pop - and was loose. Have driven approximately 300 miles since that and yes the brakes work - no hang ups - no heat. My guess - I take cruise off on Highway by tapping the brake pedal (a lot). Rear calipers have a tendacy of evidently sticking and then you get pre-mautre rear brake wear. How often are they coming loose on their own before I smell it...I figured the rear shoes may need replacing when the fronts do? :surprise: By the way - when the right rear was hanging up I did a test to see how tight it was and although there was some drag, it was not significant enough to cause pull. It was just rubbing enough to cause heat and wear.
  • lakelvrlakelvr Posts: 21
    Need advice - malfunction indicator light turned on, then off for a day then back on for good. Engine @45k runs good and no error codes are shown. Is this a mileage occurrence to get me to the dealer or is it possible something is wrong? Also how do you turn it off if it is mileage related?
  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    Hi all. Has anyone changed their fuel filter them selves? I've been told that a light will come on the dash board once it's filled with water and ready to go. (That's how the Power Strokes are). I have an 06 with a little over 32k. The only thing I do is change the oil with Mobil 1 5W-40 and rotate the tires. It's run ok, but the little rat stalls on occasion. Has this happened to anyone else?
    Is it the crank sensor? Little hic cups such as this as well as tranny issues- vibrations and little crap have me looking at the Cummins or Power Stroke 3/4 tons.
  • butchmanbutchman Posts: 24
    Are you sure there is no code (like EGR low air flow)? How did you check it? The symptom you describe is almost identical to what happened to me at approximately the same mileage. If it is EGR flow, there are some options. I would look at the LOST KJ web site - CRD forum.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    I have noticed a couple of drips.
    Seem to be coming from the drain plug-which my oil place changed from the allen to a standard bolt type.
    Nothing to worry about.

    Post 10K :)
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    Changing the fuel filter is a pain because of the water in fuel sensor plug that can only be reached from underneath.
    How I did it was fill with fuel before re-installing.
    Then bleed it with the on-board pump and bleed valve on the left side.
    The only dash light is the "water in fuel", which I have seen a couple of times.
    I wish DC had put a drain valve on the filter, because you have to unscrew the sensor and let the water/fuel run down your arm until you get all of the water out.
    The stalling I think is the EGR opening up when it is not supposed to. Since I disconnected it mine has not stalled once.
    I am still not enamored with the transmission, the TC seems to slip in 5th lockup between 50 & 55 if I push it too hard. I just live with it, and if it fails I would like to put in a Suncoast TC and shift kit.
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