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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    Thanks. I believe Caribou posted awhile back on how he disconnected his EGR. Do you happen to have the steps you took?
    I'm a [non-permissible content removed] behind the wheel and even driving it hard over 80 most of the time I see 25-26mpg. I always felt the EGR as a gov't control device that really did little other then to make some feel good in the pits of their stomach that we were saving the environment.
    The thing seems to stall after sitting for an hour or so and as I get up a little speed and stop at the end of the driveway... the dreaded rattle and dead. She fires right up so I don't know what else it can be.
    Some on here have said to clean the throttle body out and others say it's the fuel filter. I think I will be doing the NO EGR, cleaning of the throttle body and changing the fuel filter.
    Other then those stupid quirks the truck does what I ask it when I ask it.
    The service writer at the dealership told me unofficially the same thing we all know by now. This was the former DC's way of testing the market with Diesels. They rushed all of the software and threw the smallest diesel that would bolt to the infamous A545- (I like the old 727's better, but I'm just weird.) Much like everyone else, I don't understand why the engine and trans weren't out of a Mercedes european diesel model car?
    Let me know if you upgrade the TQ converter. The after market makes much better products anyway.
    If this fixes the stalling I'll keep the truck and purchase the extended warrenty. If it doesn't then I'll sell it and but the Cummins.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    See post #9082.
  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    Thanks. I showed it to the Diesel Mechanic at the dealership that's come to know my rat quite well. He smiled and nodded and explained the legality of tampering with that as it's federally mandated, blah blah. He did say he will order one and put it in for me. I'll wait for that to go and probably go your route. It's still under warranty so what the hell. I did like that Suncoast TQ. That's nice. Claims up to 80 extra HP? So we can put that back in and get the HP/TQ we lost with the de tune :shades:
  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    I don't know if anyone has had this yet, but while the dealer was replacing a broken motor mount on my Libby, the tech noticed that the front brake lines had ballooned. It was fortunate that the truck was in the shop and in the air because they probably wouldn't have lasted that much longer.
    I urge anyone that has this truck to either crawl under there and look or take it to the dealer. It has not hit the bulliten yet. My truck went in with a smidge over 32,000 on it. The pads and rotors are "green" and still original from the factory so it's not as if I autocross with her.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Changing the fuel filter is a pain because of the water in fuel sensor plug that can only be reached from underneath.

    Try removing the two mounting nuts on the filter head and lift the entire assembly up as far as the hoses will let you. Then you can then remove the electrical plug(s) and loosen the drain working from the top. If you lift the assembly up and away you can drop a transmission funnel below the filter area into an empty container below the vehicle to catch the fuel when you open the drain. Or not, just a suggestion.

    How I did it was fill with fuel before re-installing.

    Just a minor caution here: It can be risky to poor raw unfiltered diesel fuel into a filter unless you are sure the fuel is only going into the proper area of the filter. It is a major caution on diesel engines that use a drop in filter in a canister. In all modern diesel fuel systems the fuel must be drawn in only through the filter. The primer pump on the filter works quite well and ensures that the fuel is safely filtered. You must have done it right, but it only takes one particle that is big enough to plug an injector.

    I wish DC had put a drain valve on the filter, because you have to unscrew the sensor and let the water/fuel run down your arm until you get all of the water out.

    Well…it is supposed to be a drain. It’s made like a tiny funnel with a place where you can attach a clear plastic hose and open it partially and drain the water off. The threaded part has a flat side to let the fuel flow through to the funnel part when partially open. The problem is it doesn’t work very well…at least I could’t get it to work for s#’!.

    I have around 55k miles on my engine and it seems to have more power than ever. I am not sure if I am not enamored with the transmission or enamored with this engine that seems to be capable of shredding a fairly strong transmission on demand.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    Your points are noted.
    I was comparing it to my Dodge P/U.
    The drain is actually a valve that you push up and a hose to direct the water/fuel into an oil pan. Much nicer than unscrewing the water in fuel sensor.
    I did not feel like taking the thing apart more than I had to to change the filter, the new vehicles have so much crammed into the engine bay they are difficult to work on.
    As to pre-filling the filter, I keep some #1 for heaters and pour it into the filter center. I have never had a problem getting dirt into the filter [non-permissible content removed]'y.
    At 107000 mi mine is running good and getting 23-25 mpg.
  • kntrygurlkntrygurl Posts: 12
    I have an 05 Jeep Liberty Deisel and it is building backpressure and blowing the intake hose off the throttle body. The wastegate is not opening but when you unhook it the vaccuum line from it the enigine will run without blowing the hose, but with considerable loss of power.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    There is a solution to this problem.

    1. You need to find the boost sensor on the intake manifold. It sits near the back of the intake manifold and is on top. Your will need a four millimeter Allen key wrench to remove the single screw that holds it in place.
    2. Disconnect the wiring that goes to it. Once out flip it over. The poor thing will probably be buried in black sticky soot. Clean that off with some brake cleaner and a very soft brush. I find Amsoil Power Foam also works very well too. Once you have the sensor nice and clean, replace it and re-connect the wiring.

    3. For the hose, the end that keeps blowing off is probably oil soaked and is very mushy. If that is the case, you will probably have to replace it. My dealer gave me the hose and I replaced it myself, returning the bad one, no questions asked.

    When you replace that hose, it should be in place without either end attached to anything. Make sure the throttle body is clean and dry. Apply a thin coat of either Indian Head Shellac or Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket to the outside of the throttle body where the hose goes and another thin coat to the inside of your new hose. Apply the coat of either as far into the hose as you possibly can without dropping the applicator into the hose. Allow the gasket cement to dry for about three to five minutes and then slide the hose onto the throttle body. Apply the hose clamp and tighten it down. Apparently the gasket cement protects the hose from the oil and hot throttle body. I strongly suggest you wear disposable gloves when using either of the aforementioned cements as methanol is the only solvent for either of them.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    Hi guys,
    Before changing anything I would try to feel how stiff both hoses become when the turbo is building pressure. If there is some kind of obstruction in the intercooler the boost pressure sensor could see a partial pressure. Secondly, there was a discussion here about a different type of hose that never became soggy. Certain makes of oil cause swelling of the intake hose on my engine :(
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Caribou,

    Your posting makes some sense, but according to the tech at the dealer I use, a boost sensor buried in sticky soot is the primary cause of blown hoses. He has yet to see a blocked or clogged intercooler.

    As to the oils, I have found that the original 0W-40 from Mobil gave me the most headaches with seepage, swollen hoses and consumption. The two oils I find that work best in my CRD are Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck/SUV Diesel and Amsoil 15W-40 Heavy Duty Synthetic for truck/Diesel. They both spec out similarly except that the Amsoil has a significantly lower rate of oil vaporization at high temperatures. Presently, the Mobil product is nearly $7.00/quart while the Amsoil product is about $1.00/quart less even when you include shipping costs and other fees.
  • lakelvrlakelvr Posts: 21
    Butchman: thank you for the response. I held in the mileage reset button and turned on the ignition switch; needles danced and numbers flashed but the screen was blank when all settled down - no error codes. Been looking at my mileage and it seems that I'm not getting the 30mpg highway that I usually do. Not sure but first look seems so. Thanks again and I will look at suggested site.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    Winter,
    My boost sensor was covered by solid soot when I first cleaned it. It's true I don't have variable vanes but I never saw any difference in performance before and after cleaning...
    Your turbo vanes are operated by the solenoid valve that carries the "lawn mower fuel filter" ;) This little filter can play tricks on you if it's clogged: if the vanes can't move when they need to, the turbo will build up more pressure than needed.

    You see, once again I will advocate for the wastegate and anything driven by a spring or lever :P

    On TV tonight we were shown a recent Ukranian diesel substitute: pork fat. It seems to be a stinker for those who don't enjoy bacon :surprise:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Caribou,

    I change that "lawnmower" filter every fall so there are no issues. As to the boost sensor, it apparently plays enough of a role over here to cause issues. My CRD runs better after I clean that little guy which is every six months.

    As to waste gates, all fine and good as they are simpler than the system on the VGT but you end up with more turbo lag, something that VGT reduces and the proper intake can nearly eliminate.

    As to Ukrainian pork fat, oink, oink!! ;)
  • kntrygurlkntrygurl Posts: 12
    Thanks To All Who Responded......

    But heres an update to all whose interested - I unplugged the vacuum line and put a plug in it and drove it to the dealer this mornin to get the stupid thing fixed and they are tyin to tell me that i have to change the intercooler, throttle control switch, and the EGR (i believe thats what they told me). They are sayin that i didn't change the air filter soon enuff and it caused it to suck air from somewhere else and with the vacuum line hooked up it was pushin to much air to the intake and because of all the oil in the hose it was makin it slip off.....

    We (me and my dad - my mechanic) do not think that are right....because if the throttle control switch was acting up and not lettin it open and thats what is causin it to get to much pressure and the hose just slip off, then how is it that the jeep is able to rev up and go anywhere.....if the throttle control switch was stuck closed i wouldn't be able to go nowhere.....am i right or am i wrong.....

    I'm beginnin to wonder if i made the right move into the CRD....
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    First question: What planet is this dealer on?
    Second question: How often have you changed the air filter and the small "lawnmower" filter?
    Third question: How many miles are on your CRD?
    Fourth question: Have you ever cleaned the boost sensor?
    Fifth question: Is the EGR valve the original one?
    Sixth question: Is the CCV device on top of the engine original?

    I have a small amount of oil in the hoses as a normal function of the engine. All turbo diesels, aftercooled or not have some oil in the hoses, especially those with closed crankcase ventilation in place. Before replacing the aftercooler, see if it can be cleaned out first before you spend beau coup bucks on a new one.

    I have learned and am continuing to learn that these little guys need a bit more maintenance and TLC than other cars. I will admit that I have had a few issues with my CRD, but I do not feel that I made a mistake when I bought it in 2005.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Kntrygurl,

    I think Winter2 and Caribou1 gave you good advice. It makes sense to clean the boost sensor even if it is not the root cause of the problem. And, if you have been driving in dirty enough conditions to plug your air cleaner your boost control filter (lawnmower filter) could be too dirty also and it is easy to inspect and change. I clean my boost sensor each oil change (every 6 months is not too often) but it seems to be staying cleaner as the engine ages.

    You can drive in dirty conditions without knowing it. The first air filter I changed was completely plugged on one side and almost black all the way across. This was due to a boost hose that was leaking sooty oil fumes under the hood near the air cleaner intake. I cleaned the attaching points on the boost hoses and made sure the clamps were good and tight (without crushing the hoses) and the next air filter was much cleaner when changed. You have to baby sit these hoses a little.

    Sooty oily fumes come out of the (engine) CCV valve and feed in between the air cleaner and the turbocharger. That stuff then goes through the turbo, turbo outlet hose, intercooler, intercooler outlet hose, and EGR flow control valve and in the intake where the boost sensor is located. This is how sooty oil ends up in the intercooler. The EGR valve also flows sooty exhaust into the intake near the boost/ temperature sensor just to make sure it gets a double dose.

    However, it takes more than a little oil to plug the intercooler. My CRD used a quart or more of oil the first 1,300 miles then stopped. I doubt I have used 2 quarts in 55,000 miles. Have you been using a lot of oil? Do you have a lot of black smoke going out the exhaust other than when you really step on it? If your intercooler is plugged where did it come from? If your air cleaner was badly plugged wouldn’t your mass air flow sensor dial back the fuel and make your engine run weak? Do you have fault codes that someone more knowledgeable than me can identify the problem? Fault codes could be a bad EGR valve or something else. Seems unlikely that it would be multiple problems all at once.

    Pushing the odometer reset when turning on the key only tests the gauges. You need to cycle the ignition on and off 3 or 4 times to the on position to get the fault codes to appear in the odometer area. Your dealer may have read codes that indicate more than one possible problem and they just want to change everything all at once.

    Almost forgot, it's possible to remove and clean the intercooler and or the EGR valve rather than just putting on new parts.
  • coolridercoolrider Posts: 84
    I have been deleting the emails about new posts on here for a while now. Ever since mine was repurchased by DCX. I took the money back and the offer for a bigger diesel. Yes mine is bigger by .2 liters. I have had my Grand Cherokee CRD for nearly a year now and it has not faltered once. I have gotten one recall for the brakes. It was a slow break in for the Benz diesel. Mine weighs 4913 lbs with the tank nearly empty. It rides much better is faster and so quite as compared to the Libby CRD and the only thing that suffers is the mileage. Mine also has the fulltime 4X4 so I know I pay a penalty for that too. I can get over twenty now all of the time in the city and slightly over 25 hwy. Today in Fla I made a lucky find of diesel for 4.17 per. It has not been towed (local tow truck driver must think I died) every other week like the libby or camped out at the dealer for weeks on end. All of this agony I read about on the libby from current owners makes me feel better about my decision to let it go back to its maker. For some strange reason I still miss the clatter of the libby and its size was perfect for my tastes so I guess I can see why there are those that hang on to it. I have had diesels for the last thirty years with rabbits and toyota pick up, ford powestroke, new beetle and now a Jetta too. I know that they are the way to go for only the libby was a sore spot mechanically in all of the miles on all of the diesels I have owned. So to end it I will say if you are looking for a more reliable diesel suv the new Jeep diesel is a great one.
  • kntrygurlkntrygurl Posts: 12
    Ok Winter,
    Here are the answers....
    1.) I'm not sure what planet they are on....Which may explain my problem!!!
    2.) I Just bought the jeep three months ago used and they was spost to do a complete service on it before i bought it but come to find out they didn't....But I changed the air filter 2,000 miles ago and installed a K&N on it....As to the 'lawnmower' filter, i haven't...we just found it when the jeep started actin up.
    3.) When i bought it it had almost 34,000 and now it has 40, 233.
    4.) No i haven't cleaned the boost sensor. Once again i just got it and didn't realise that was something i needed to do.....but i do know and that will be one of the things i will do at every oil change.
    5.) No, Lookin at the warranty work done in the past it has been changed twice already....both covered under warranty. But now that it is out of the basic warranty, they are not wantin to cover it.
    6.) I'm not sure what you are talking about....

    Thank you so much for your help......Have you had this same problem? What oil do you run in your CRD? I am runnin the Mobil 1 0w-40, which is what the book calls for.....
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    The answer to question six lies under the engine shroud. To remove the engine shroud you need to remove the oil filler cap. Once the shroud is off, look for a round black device with a couple of hose coming off of it. If that is not working correctly or clogged, that will contribute to poor performance, oil consumption and oil leakage.

    As to the oil, the 0W-40 is barely adequate as domestic diesel fuel is comparable to swill because of the low cetane and large amount of aromatic compounds, both which contribute to particulate formation and other issues. In this forum, most everyone is satisfied with any other 5W-40 synthetic from Shell or Mobil. I personally like Amsoil's 15W-40 heavy duty synthetic oil for Marine/Diesel applications. It specs out like Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck/SUV but has lower vaporization loss and a better additive package.
  • kntrygurlkntrygurl Posts: 12
    Ok, now i know what you are talkin about.....We have looked at that, but we are not sure if it good or not.....We just got it and the only thing we have done to it is clean out the part of the intake hose that goes on the throttle body and put it back on but the next time i got in the jeep to take off it still blew off.....

    Where do you get amsoil from? We have never heard of it.

    Have you had this same problem with yours?
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