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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Posts: 59
    mdamick this is good to know. Thanks for posting.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    The dealer can reprogram the speedometer-I have seen that several people have had this done.
    As to the mileage, it sounds like you either have a leaky EGR or another intake issue.
    How is the power compared to before?
    You should check the turbo hoses, maybe one is loose or has a small hole.
    You might also remove and clean the boost/IAT sensor, if you have a functional EGR it can get really garbaged up and this will affect the boost a lot.
  • nor_starnor_star Posts: 1
    Hello Jeep-CRD experts;
    I've owned my liberty for 2 years and put 50k on it without any problems. The only concern was the soot produced during sudden acceleration for the driver behind me.

    The current problem started a few weeks ago. The day after a long drive (150miles or so) in the morning I realized the check engine light is on and the vehicle does not have power to go uphill or exceed 80 km/hr. (55 mile/hr). Being a sensor problem I disconnected the power (what I usually do with my gasoline car to get rid of electronic errors). The check engine light went off and the Jeep worked as good as before for a couple of hours before I turned the engine off, upon start the engine light came on again and the same story with power etc.

    I took the vehicle to the Jeep dealership in town. They performed the test and came up with "Turbo / Supercharger Underboost" diagnosis. The dealer said that they have cleaned the boost pressure sensor. They reported excessive carbon build up under the boost-pressure sensor (and perhaps in the EGR) and asked me to come
    back later for a major maintenance. I ended up going there a couple of times; but I think they do not have a diesel mechanic hence are afraid of touching it so they just waist my time and just are fooling around. My questions:
    1: Does anybody know a knowledgeable diesel mechanic in Toronto ( Canada) area?
    2: With the symptoms mentioned earlier (under boost, carbon built-up, probable sensor /EGR problem) has anybody have an idea about the ball park cost (min-max) to get things straightened again?
    3: I love my Jeep and I am ready to invest and learn basics maintenance. Is anyone aware of relevant DVDs/booklets, maintenance manuals, etc. available ?
    Many thanks in advance for your response. Please note, as I said earlier, I'm a just a student (but an interested student) in this.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    Find an crackerjack Ford diesel mechanic that has gone out on their own. I did and what a great help.
  • storageguystorageguy Posts: 30
    You may find some repair manuals on ebay, I have seen them there from time to time. You did not say if you were using a diesel fuel additvie. My smoking problem ended fairly quickly after using a good additive. A good mechanic should be found at a Chrysler dealership that sells and services Dodge Diesel Trucks.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    edited July 2010
    I would check the turbo vanes actuator and the little solenoid valve that stands behind your air filter box. The vanes are moved by switching the vacuum on and off. Otherwise your boost pressure sensor could be clogged...
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Posts: 153
    I totally agree. One of the problems we commonly have is the EGR getting fouled up with carbon and soot. It is due to the dirty fuel we get at the pump . We are not at the fuel standards that Europe is at and that the Jeep was designed for. The use of Bio-Diesel burns cleaner and reduces the chances of this happening.
    Recently I have obtained a young Mechanic at a premium motors shop who is meticulous and is trained in diesels , who understands them thoroughly.
    He is the type of person who is willing to do the dirty work .not just change parts but clean them .
    For example When he found I was getting the engine light on it was a an EGR not responding and opening up fully to gain boost pressure..so he replaced it and also "cleaned out the burnt fuel "recirculating tubing " that feeds the EGR because it 's purpose is to recirculate the old exhaust fumes of unburnt fuel and recirculate this fuel back into the engine intake for more power. This tube was full of soot and reducing the flow to the engine ultimately giving the nefarious engine faults.
    All of this went away after the tubing was blown out and EGR was replaced.
    The service to disconnect the tubing and clean it out was $100 . and needs to be done once a year if you want peak performance. Kind of like a tune up for a diesel.This will extend the life of the EGR ..and increase performance .
    Hopefully the use of Bio -Diesel will reduce the soot .
    good luck
    Lightnin
  • elder2elder2 Posts: 14
    I added a turbo boost gauge so I can tell If the turbo system is working correctly, especially if the engine performance drops. My wife hit a deer and the inter-cooler cracked & leaked. I knew right away I was loosing turbo pressure by the low gauge reading. I added one to my diesel motorhome also. For the most accurate reading, the hose to the gauge should be mounted on the intake maniford or as close as possible to it. I drilled & tapped a hole in the intake manifold on mine. Occassionally check the turbo hoses & clamps for cracks & looseness. Keep em running!
  • elder2elder2 Posts: 14
    I worked my way thru college as a motorcycle mechanic. I saw alot of stripped aluminuim threads. The solition makes it stronger than new. It is called a Helicoil & is available at most auto parts stores. It allows you to restore to the origanal size hole & threads so there is no need for oversizing. A Fumoto Valve is a good investment as it replaces the drain plug and makes oil changes a snap. This device is widely used in the trucking industry. I installed them on my CRD and my diesel motorhome. Google Fumoto & Helicoil & good luck.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    The "Helicoil" is the nicest solution, but be careful not to make a large countersink to engage the special tap (tool that produces the thread that homes the Helicoil). Our copper washer is only 2mm wide and this is practically the thickness/height of the Helicoil.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    edited July 2010
    Good Morning,

    The maintenance required to keep your CRD running well is pretty simple. The boost sensor on top of and on the back of the intake manifold needs to be cleaned every 5000 to 7000 miles with some solvent and a soft toothbrush. The solvent Iike is Castle Solv (the spelling here is correct).

    The other bit of maintenance is what Caribou1 calls "nose blowing". Even my diesel mechanic at the local dealer I use recommends it. Make sure the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Push the button on the side of the gear selector to lock out overdrive. From a dead stop nail the accelerator and hold it to the floor until about 65 MPH. Repeat until no black clouds are emanating from the exhaust. Do this several times weekly afterward to keep the carbon build up in check. I have had the EGR valve replaced once at 14K miles. I am now at 70K miles and no problems since I have been "nose blowing".
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    edited July 2010
    When I start my CRD in the morning after sitting overnight, the idle seems uneven like it is going up and down but not enough to be seen on the tachometer. Once warmed up, the idle is even and smooth.

    Any ideas/suggestions welcome.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Hi winter2,
    The very first turbo boost carries cold air, and the boost sensor has both temperature and pressure sensing :confuse:
    The EGR may come into action too early as soon as the engine rpm is momentarily higher than idling speed. If I remember correctly the EGR operation is also temperature related; but to which sensor?
    The 'smooth running condition' (discussed here a long time ago) tries to achieve even angular acceleration of the four cylinders. You could have one set of sticky piston rings...
    Apart from fuel dripping between the engine and tranny after one tankful at a steady 75mph, I have nothing to complain about :blush:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Hello Caribou,

    The uneven idle that I described does not occur consistently every morning. I am wondering if the mass airflow sensor could be soiled? I do use a K&N air filter and before this problem started, I had just cleaned it and re-oiled it. I did not over oil the filter.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Hi winter2,
    I also use a K&N air filter and I've never seen any difference with the original or with the Mann air filters. But I always found I could get better mileage with a slightly dirty filter. In all cases my waste-gate whistles loud and clear, so there is plenty of air going to the engine.
    Your mass airflow sensor could be cleaned with a dish washing detergent, the same applies to our K&N air filter. You could try to disconnect the sensor and see if there is a change in the idling mode. I would avoid thinners and solvents and choose Isopropyl alcohol as a cleaning agent for all sensors because there is a lesser risk of damaging the polymer that provides the electrical integrity of these sensors.
    The pressure release valve of the common rail as well as the fuel pressure sensor could show signs of weakness after a few years :blush:
  • My 2006 Liberty Diesel needs a fuel filter. How do I de-pressurize the line before removing the old filter? And does the new filter re-pressurize the line? Thanks.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Caribou,

    When I changed over to a K&N filter, fuel economy improved as well as reduction in turbo lag. I have never found any oil film on the clean side of the filter.

    As to the MAF, I am going to be pulling it and clean it with MAF cleaner to see if it helps.

    The wife and I went to Florida earlier this month. Fuel economy was good considering that we used the A/C most of the trip and drove at 72 MPH. We averaged 27.1 MPG.

    Once I get the MAF cleaned, I will let you know if there is any change.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Hi winter2,
    Without any special care I was able to repeat 26.4 MPG at a steady 75 MPH while driving through Spain this summer. I kept the 4WD FULL TIME engaged as well as the A/C. Under these conditions neither the torque converter nor the extra HP you have play a role in the comparison :blush:
    Commuting in heavy traffic takes up to 20% more fuel mainly because I can't accelerate as fast as you can and my T/C just keeps spinning.
    I've had this truck for 7 years and will change whatever is needed to keep it as long as diesel fuel is available :shades:
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    Liberty diesels in Europe must have a different computer that gives the better economy. How do we get foreign computers into USA vehicles?
  • I have to say a special thanks to my Jeep Cherokee/Liberty. It saved me and my son from a stay in hospital but it died in the process! We were hit side on this afternoon by somebody asleep at the wheel of a Volvo Estate. I loved that car and will really, really miss it.
    :( :sick:
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