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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    I would check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge before doing anything else. You need ~15 psi at idle speed and ~40 psi while cruising; such oil pressures were considered safe during many years :)
    I have almost the same mileage on my CRD and I change oil + filter every 15,000 miles. I expect signs of wear at some point :confuse:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    edited August 2010
    Hi winter2,
    Why in the world did you choose Lubro Moly?
    35 years ago we got rid of this type of lubricant because once you start using it you must keep it. Piston ring wear became greater and those who went back to normal oil produced oil fumes. This was the oil chosen by Citroen in the 60's ;)

    http://antarama.free.fr/Documents_relook/04_02_huiles_antar.html
  • lippslipps Posts: 10
    Thanks Bob:
    It was the sending unit. replaced it ($71) and it all works fine.

    By the way for those on the forum who havent installed a Provent yet, they are worth their weight in gold! Helps with oil and EGR issues.
    Get about an ounce per 1000 miles that would have gone into the intercooler!
    Dave
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Caribou,

    I did not realize that there was a problem with Lubro Moly oils as you say. The retailer told me that Porsche drivers, turbo and non-turbo, swear by this stuff. At the Lubro Moly website, it even lists the oil I am using as one of the correct ones for the CRD.

    Based on your comments, I will switch to something else when I change the oil this weekend either Valvoline or Pennzoil. Both make synthetics designed for the CRD engine.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Winter2,
    Many Porsche engines were of "boxer" design, ie horizontal / flat cylinders. We can understand the need of a 'super lubricant' to reduce the effect of gravity in those cylinders. In the late 60's the 911S had thick chrome plating inside the cylinders where the piston rings came into contact. Diamond shaped oil retaining pockets were machined along the stroke of the pistons, and they did not recommend 'Moly xxx' at the time. The CRD engine is much, much simpler :blush:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Caribou,

    The Lubro Moly oil that I use is a straight synthetic oil. It does not contain the "super lubricant" you speak of, MoS2 or Molybdenum Disulfide. Lubro Moly still makes oils with this substance as part of the formulation and several are recommended for use in diesel engines including the one in the CRD.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Recently changed fuel filter at 75k miles and cut it open (last change 50k). Filter material was darker than one cut open at 25K miles in Aug 06. Unrolling the filter material revealed black crud along the complete length of one edge of 75k filter that 25k filter did not have. This doesn’t really mean that much. I was just expecting cleaner fuel today than 4 years ago.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    There are a few key points when fueling.
    1. Avoid stations that do not sell alot of Diesel.
    2. NEVER get fuel when the tanker is unloading into the stations tank. this stire up sediment at the bottom of the tank and you will pump it right into your tank!
    3. All it takes is one bad tank of fuel to clog up a filter, I got one once in a gas vehicle, although it had mcch smaller filters, I went through 6 of them before I got my tank cleaned out.
    bob
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Unclebob9,

    Tell me something that I have not read 100 times. I posted one observation, nothing more. Take it for what it is worth, or not.

    I attended a diesel seminar years ago and was told that the main reason for not filling up when a tanker is unloading is because the churning can cause the station pump to pick up water. I have never filled up when a tanker was unloading and I have never found water in my fuel in either of my diesels. What I found in my fuel filter was apparently small enough to get through the station filters. Hence, what is the definition of clean fuel?

    I was also instructed to avoid large truck stops that service over the road trucks because of the possibility of used oil being dumped into the station fuel tanks. One of the instructors was a retired oil company engineer. Does that make it true? I don't know. :)
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    edited September 2010
    Hi,

    I just replaced #4 glowplug in under an hour. Was not as bad as I thought it would be. Just make sure the engine is cold as you are working with an aluminum alloy head. Also, make sure everything is clean so no foreign material gets into the cylinder. Make sure you disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery.

    You will need the following items:
    1. Metric Socket Set with a 13mm socket and a 10mm socket (3/8 inch drive)
    2. 10mm deep socket (got one at NAPA for $5.00)
    3. Flexible joint for the socket set.
    4. One eight inch extension.

    1. Remove the hoses from the fuel filter.
    2. Remove fuel filter assembly and put it to one side.
    3. Reach under the intake and feel for the glowplug and wire. Once found remove the wire gently. Much of what you will do here is by feel as it is out of line of sight. You cannot get to this from the bottom. This job is done by feel.
    4. Placed the 10 mm deep socket over the glowplug, then plug in the flexible joint, then the extension and finally the wrench itself. Turn the wrench anti-clockwise to remove the glowplug. I loosened it and then turned the extension without the wrench. This went faster.
    5. Remove the glowplug and set it aside.
    6. Get your new glowplug and put a tiny bit of anti-seize compound on the threads. Place the new glowplug in the hole and start screwing it in using the 10mm deep socket. Screw in by hand until you can turn it no further. Attach the flexible joint, etc. and snug it down. Do not over torque.
    7. Re-attach the glowplug wire, re-install the fuel filter assembly and fuel lines. Be sure you purge all of the air out of the injection system before starting.
    8. Finally re-attach the positive battery cable.
  • What's your mileage? How often do glow plugs go out?
    My 06 is in the shop now with the second glow plug out. 41,000 miles. Fortunately still under warrenty.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    The mileage on my CRD is nearly 73K miles. I had #2 glow plug replaced at about 62K miles under warranty. This one I did myself and I saved a bundle of money. I am dreading the failure of #3 as it is a bear to get at. #1 appears to be fairly easy to get at.

    Glow plugs fail when they fail. There is no time frame as to when they fail although age, electrical system health, and mileage are factors. In my first diesel, I replaced all four glow plugs every other year or 25K miles as at least one of them invariably would fail. Fortunately, they were easy to access and cost about $11 each.
  • Seems a bit strange to me, I have had my 06 CRD for 2 weeks (or less). Love the power, fuel miliage. What are the symptoms of the glow plug not working?
    I have had a 1992 Dodge diesel Pick-up since 8/91. I have never had a glow plug go out.
    Are these just junk plugs in the CRD or have I just been lucky?
    My Transgo kit should arrive this week, going to send the computer in for the Green Diesel as soon as they return from vacation. I have ordered my ARB Bully Bar Front Bumper, takes a Month to get here from Australia.
    My CRD, has 70k miles on it, I intend to keep it for at least 10 years and got it at a great price. I am going to trick it out ASAP and enjoy the benefits for as long as I can.,
    Bob
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Your Dodge does not have glow plugs. Cummins uses a plate/mesh to heat the air instead of individual glow plugs like the CRD.

    The engine controller tests the glow plugs for internal resistance and if that starts to breakdown then the CEL comes on Each glow plug throws it's own code so diagnosis is easy, replacement interesting. If you wait for the plug to fail totally and the plugs are wired in series, then starting when cold will be a problem because none of the plugs will work.

    The glow plugs like the rest of the injection system is Bosch.
  • Thanks. Are the glow plugs only necessary in cold weather? And will the CRD start if they are all bad? (Just curious).

    Thanks: Bob
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    edited September 2010
    When all glow plugs go bad I once used "Start Pilote":
    http://www.laboutiquedutracteur.com/start-pilote-300ml-pi-671.html

    This is a spray that smells like ether. You spray the air filter element and can start a cold engine like if it was warm :blush:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    If it is warm enough then glow plugs are not all that necessary, but what you will have is longer cranking time to get the combustion chamber hot enough to ignite the fuel, especially with the first start of the day. If you go to a place where it is cold, then you will have problems.

    If you look at the oil dipstick, you should find a coiled wire with a plug on it. This is the block heater so that might help in cooler weather. I live just outside of Washington DC and if the temp is going to be below 20 F, I will plug my CRD in. I have started my CRD at 9F not plugged in and it did fine but it is easier on the engine if it is plugged in.

    Also, make sure the battery is in good shape. You do not need to purchase the Optima type battery as a replacement. I got a Dekka group 34 with 875 amps at 0F! I wanted more power, but nothing was available that would fit.
  • I sell the optima it is made in mexico the deka is just as good but more money plenty of power for the crd
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    When I purchased the Deka battery, it cost $40 less then the Optima installed.
  • I am no diesel expert, but I was told by a old backhoe operator never to use ether on a diesel. When he had starting problems he used rag with gas on it and held it in front of the air cleaner. And he siad this was not too good for a diesel either, but was less harmful than ether.
    For what it's worth
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