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Jeep Liberty Diesel

1546547549551552559

Comments

  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    According to the service manual:
    The identification stamp for the 2.8L is located on
    the left side of the engine block, above the starter.
    The engine code label is located on the front timing
    cover and is the same as the engine I.D. and serial
    number. :shades:
  • kyfdx@Edmundskyfdx@Edmunds Posts: 25,914
    mdamick

    Great info! Thanks!

    Moderator - Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    Hi ppilot71,
    My little CRD also has the VIN engraved underneath the lower foot path protective cover of the passenger door :sick:
    Last week, if the safety inspector had not found it for the first time in 8 years, I was no longer allowed to drive it.
    Sometimes I wonder what we would become without regulations :confuse:
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    We would become FREE. A concept that is becoming very rare on this planet. :mad:
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,985
    Yeah, free to get crashed into by people not properly registering or maintaining their vehicles. It's not that I don't trust you, but no thanks. :P

    Let's stick to Liberty CRD talk please.
  • I have a 2005 CRD with absolutely no mods to it. Had many CRD issues, 2 turbos, one computer, , 2 mass flow sensors, 2 EGR (once cleaned, second time replaced) and the transmission has been in 4 times at the dealer with multiple problems. I am now out of warranty and would like to know all the "life-prolonging" mods that I can do to it. I am thinking of the add-on micron oil filter, and I heard of a EGR bypass hose? Anything available for the transmission? Let me know what mods this forum suggests for longer life expectancy of the motor and tranny. Oh, yeah AC pump, tires, brakes, rotors, fan resistor issues don't count as those are normal issues with any car! I am only worried about the engine and transmission. This series of Liberty models, (without going Jeepster) is the last of the good SUV off-roaders. The new Jeep Liberty has lost its off-road capability from basic geometry and clearance changes to the model. I can't stand AWD, and Jeep's 4WD I have found to be the best for snow and fire-trails.
  • fustfust Posts: 29
    MY LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS STOP WORKING, CHECKED BULBS , FUSES, HAS ANYONE HAD SIMULAR PROBLEM AND POSSIBLE REPAIR, ANY HELP APPRECIATED.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    Just answering the question posted :P :P :P
  • Hello,
    What is the GDE ecotune and where do I get one?. Also, what are the options for the EGR? I want to help my engine live longer and with less maintenance!.
    Thanks
    Hans
    2005 CRD 65Kmiles (still at the dealer fixing transmission)
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    Hi all,
    I finally took everything off the top of the engine to inspect and discover what caused the large stains my truck leaves on the asphalt after a sustained effort :surprise:
    The original ccv valve is a robust 2" plastic disc kept closed by a light spring. It can not leak outside the engine and will retain a minimal overpressure in the crankcase until vacuum is applied by the turbo intake.
    The Provent 200 that I never installed separates the oil by capillary effect (filter media). As of today, I can't evaluate its beneficial effect on my 'de-rated' 150 HP engine.

    The stains under the truck were produced by a diesel fuel pond accumulating on top of the engine, where the injectors penetrate into the head. This 'fuel pond' emptied itself slowly when the truck was parked and kept the engine and tranny shining clean ;)
    The fuel lines feeding the 4 injectors were loose on the injectors, but not on the common rail. I used a flat 17mm crowfoot / flare wrench to slacken then torque the 8 nuts to approx 20N.M after removing the waste fuel rubber recuperation tube held by a wire spring clip above each injector. This took care of the fuel smell and stains; my fingernails took 5 days to recover their normal aspect ;)
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    edited September 2011
    GRD or Green Diesel engineering eco tune. I think they have 3 levels of tuning. The Eco Tune is the lowest power and torque, but it is the one to get unless you have upgraded to a heavy duty torque convertor. I have the eco tune. www.greendieselengineering.com ($450, you send them your computer they program it and return it, if later you want to up-grade to a more powerful tune it is $50)
    The EGR is a smog control device that gums up the engine. A provent 200 Is a must have, ($160), many people have made their own versions very cheaply, I got one on EBAY for a decent price and it is a clean set-up as compared to the home made versions and I plan on keeping my jeep many years, so, I sprang for it.
    The Provent traps all the gunk that will eventually cause your turbo to fail. It also keeps your EGR valve clean.
    Without the GRD tune, a Provent will trigger a check engine light, part of the GRD tune tells the computer to ignore the EGR yet keeps all the other protective functions. So, no check engine light on all the time.
    The GRD did give me noticably more power, however I did not notice any significant increase in MPG as they claim, my overhead MPG reading is 4 MPG too high and my speedometer is 4MPH fast. In reality I get 23-24 MPG in town and 28-30 on the freeway. With the best MPG at around 70-73 MPH.
    If you do not have to deal with Smog inspections, Stan in CA. did this Air filter modification using a Fram CA 8038 filter (I am in the process of doing this to mine.) http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/airintake3.jpg
  • FOUND IT!!!! The manufacturere says right side of engine, above starter.... YEAH RIGHT!!!! You need to dissasemble 1/2 the engine to see it. Easier, a mechanic here in Argentina fooound it under rust, on the lower right forward part of the engine At the bottom of the engine block where the oil pan starts. Wire brush away rust and number should be visible. Thanks for all the help.
  • Thank you for the excellent description and advice. I searched Ebay for "Provident 200" and found 3 different parts described. Is it the Mann Proivdent 200" Kit? My light comes on an off, often will go out when I add a diesel fuel conditiner. Even with the light on the vehicle seems to ru perfect. Any more info you can supply would be great
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Hello caribou1 ! This is old "farout" the former sufferer of the "Green Beast" I try and check out this crd fourm every once and a while. So far as I can tell you seem to be the number one on keeping your CRD going by your self. I could never have done it. I am disabled and limited on doing the mechanical stuff. However I wish I were able.

    Correct me but it seem that the CRD's in the US are so heavy with this smog equipment, and it really slows them down and repair is more often because of it.

    My Chrysler Pacifica has 176,025 kilometers on it. I checked it on km because it has a electronic button that changes mph into kmph. I expect by this weekends it will have 110,000 on it. We put a lot of miles on going back and forth to the VA hospital clinics. I am soooo glad we got the LifeTime Powertrain warranty with the Pac. We also bought the LifeTime extended warranty as well. We have had a couple of problems, but mothing super major.

    With Fiat it seems the vehicles are looking much better and they have improved a lot. the new 3.6 V-6 is a real fast engine, how well it is only time will tell.

    I will say by and be looking for you from time to time.

    farout
  • Stan has posted great installation instructions for a Provent 200:

    http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/provent/

    Here is the EBAY listing you want:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/MANN-FILTER-Provent-200-Filter-Assembly-3931070550-/2807- 39901511?pt=BI_Pumps&hash=item415d66f047

    That is a decent price.

    You either have to live with the light of spring $450 for the GRD eco tune.
    I am in the process of puttig on a much larger air filter and called GRD because of concerms of disconnecting the sensors in my air filter housing.
    They said no problem, their tune has already eliminated them from the check engine light circuts.

    Best of luck: Bob
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    Hi farout,
    Yes, my de-rated CRD is doing rather well in performance and budget wise.

    According to past experience it's clearly the pollution / emission control system built around the engine that is unreliable, not the engine ;)

    I have around 180,000 Km on the odometer:
    - I change oil and oil filter every 25,000 Km without refilling during this period,
    - fuel filter every 50,000 Km (Parker Racor R20S),
    - air filter is a washable K&N,
    - original tires lasted 36,000 Km and were replaced by the first set of BFGs until I reached 120,000 Km. I replaced them 'prematurely' because it was the beginning of the cold season.
    I'm on my second set of BFGs with only 60,000 Km on them. I will replace them next spring because they get noisy after a few years (3-4?) and they loose elasticity. On this last set of tires I have not rotated all 4 intentionally to see where the wear came from: it's the front left tire that wears inside :surprise:

    I keep the 4WD on all the time to avoid peeling rubber when cornering and during rapid starts. I added a pint of cooling liquid plus half a cup of power steering fluid in 8 years.

    But I never understood why there was so much mud on my fenders and doors :confuse:
  • Wrong.

    The provent alone will not trigger a check engine light. The provent simply "filters" the oily mist out of the crankcase blow-by gases before returning it to the air intake. Even if you were to vent the gases to the atmosphere, you wouldn't trigger a check engine light.

    The check engine light most people talk about with CRDs concerns the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. Under certain circumstances, the EGR substitutes air coming in from the turbo with exhaust. This is good for the environment, but it covers sensors in a layer of soot. The easiest way to turn off the EGR is by simply unplugging the MAF sensor. The only drawback to this method is that it will cause a check engine light. The Green Diesel Engineering (GDE) tunes will eliminate (or almost eliminate) the EGR, without triggering a check engine light.
  • Additionally, the "gunk" you speak of is only oil. This will not cause your turbo to fail. There are 2 problems associated with the oily mist, and neither involve turbo failure. First, the original hoses that run from the turbo to the intercooler, and from the intercooler to the intake manifold, are not oil resistant. The oily mist makes these hose deteriorate and fail quickly. The new OEM hoses from jeep are oil resistant. You can also buy a hose kit from Samco that will stand up to the oil. Second, the oily mist clogs sensors (mainly the MAP sensor). Combining an oily mist with a bunch of soot from the EGR makes for quite the mess inside your intake.

    70-73mpg is a complete lie. It's simply not possibly to get that kind of mileage out of this vehicle without running a grease setup.

    For subsequent readers: When "unclebob9" says GRD, he means GDE (Green Diesel Engineering). They do great work, but even they can't squeeze anything over 40mpg out of a CRD. I would take anything "unclebob9" says with a grain of salt. Anyone who knows enough to get a GDE tune would know enough to at least get the acronym correct.
  • dnoladnola Posts: 1
    Even the casual reader could see that unclebob9 clearly stated 70-73mph, not mpg. Read the post better before you choose to criticize what you don't understand. :(
  • My bad. Apparently my sub-casual reading ability didn't pick up on that.
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