Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
However, a more relevant question is: can't it be ordered separately from Porsche? You should check with the parts department. If I can get a Porsche sport shifter from Porsche and have it installed by the dealer at roughly the same cost as ordering one on a new car, I would be surprised if you couldn't do the same with a non-mechanical item like the windstop.
Given the outrageous prices on some of the Porsche options, this $300 piece of plastic seems to be worthwhile.
Love the color and although the 18" wheels were nice I've grown to like the thicker sidewall "fat rubber" look of the 17"s. No disrespect to owners of the 18"s, I'm sure I'd love either!
The only break-in I've heard about is to be tender on the brakes at first and keep it below 5K RPMs. This will not be a daily driver and I was informed about the little "keep alive" battery charger for those winter months. Got to get one of those, any better sources than direct from Porsche at $80 would be appreciated. That whole car shut-down thing is unique and the 10-14 day period before the shutdown happens seems short. Any input or a recap on this scenario would also be appreciated.
Above all, enjoy your car! Congratulations on your purchase. Seems like you got a great price.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Ahh, I've finally created an "urban legend".
Seriously, you are absolutely right. Thansk for spreading the good word.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I am moving and want to have the car transported as I have another car I am going to drive to the new place.
Has anyone used or heard of a transport service called Tn'T?
If so, what sort of experience did you have?
Can you recommend any other company?
I am moving from Ann Arbor, Michigan to Savannah, GA
Thanks
As I am sure you know, completely enclosed transport vs. open carrier is a lot more expensive.
he was moving a 1 bedroom apartment so the car probably took as much space on the truck as his furniture, etc. did.
He drives an Audi A4
Bottom-line: Is 16K miles "normal" for front brakes ?
Bapcha
2005 Base Boxster, Seal Gray/Blk/Blk/P+ Package, blah, blah.
The Dealer asked for 40.5k but still have some room to negotiate.
I will trade in my car - but for a fair price.
The boxster was a company car serving as a service loan car - almost never used and has 500 miles on it. However, the car was titled and its not "new".
My question - is this going to be a problem when i will sell the car? Is the price I'm getting is a good deal?
Also this car will be my main car (have another car at home - wife driving it). Is it possible to drive the Porsche on a daily basis?
Last question - how reliable are the late models of the boxster? Should I expect big expenses?
Your comments will be appreciated.
As for pricing Id try a little more Ive seen 9k ish off "Brand New" cars. I think the most important question is this the car you want? or are you settling , to accept a decent deal ? If option/color wise its your choice, I say go for it.
DL
That 500 miles represents about half of the "break in" miles. Take a quick guess as to how many of those "loanees" took care to not exceed 4,000 rpm or only drive the car for 15+ minutes at a time to allow it to properly warm up?
Frankly, I wouldn't touch this car. If you can afford a Boxster, you can afford to get a new one at a good deal or a slightly used one that has been properly broken in. But a loaner? - no way.
I got the car for 39k.
It's true that if you believe in the break in theory you need to drive it carefully, and care for the engine - but that a controversial subject.
Also no one promise you that when you buy a used car the previous owner did break in the engine as needed.
I also think that people who drive Porsche respect those cars, part of them have better models like 911 and wont go wild in this loaner... well i hope that was the case in my new car.
I hope this doesn't sound too stupid but...
At what RPM to you guys shift most often?
Do you think 4,000 is too high for normal driving? Will it have any impact on the longevity or maintenance cost of the engine?
How often to you rev it too the max? What is the max? Is it 7,000 or 8,000? There are some red slashes starting at 7,000 and a darker one at 8,000.
I want to enjoy the car but I also want the engine to last a while without huge repair expenses.
(1) Keep it under 4,200 rpm's for the first 1,000 miles (that was 911, w/ 7,200 rpm redline - check your manual)
(2) Avoid short hops - drive at least 15+ minutes at a time during break-in to give the engine oil and parts time to heat up to full operating temperature and expand/contract as they are supposed to during breal in.
(3) Avoid use of cruise control - vary your engine speed during break in.
If the car isn't new and has more than 1,000 miles on the odometer, drive it like you stole it. And as far as shift points following break in, I have been told there is more carbon build up and damage done by shifting too low (i.e. dropping rpms below 2,000), than too high (but short of red-line). My average 1-2 and 2-3 shifts under normal acceleration in my 911 are at about 4,000 to 4,500 rpms. For non-highway cruising (i..e. under 55 mph), I like to keep it in a gear that keeps the rpms close to or above 3,000. I don't use 6th unless I'm over 65-70+.
P.S. These are not my recommendations from personal knowledge of mechanical engineering and materials science, of which I have little. They are from 3-4 people that I consider serious experts - including 2 former Porsche race team engineers, one AMG/Motorsport dealer that has numerous sports cars himself, and one friend who holds masters degrees in both ME and MS. Among them, there is no "controversy" about what you should do and the value of a good break in procedure.
I should have said that I have been breaking it in according to your instructions (and the manual)and now have about 1,600 miles on it.
I was interested in how to drive it thereafter and your information was very helpful. Your sources seem pretty darn good to me.
Is there an easy way to pull the alt without a service garage being the answer.
Thanks,
Brad
Also, what should I expect the annual cost of ownership to be and how much ongoing maintenance will be needed? I don't think this will scare me off, but I at least want to have an idea before I purchase.
986 model Boxsters (and 996 model 911's) were known to have an issue with rear main seal (RMS) leaks. If the problem surfaced under warranty and led to adverse engine wear, some dealers were getting Porsche to agree to replace the entire engine. But just replacing the RMS is an expensive job.
If you plan on keeping the car for awhile, I'd consider the warranty. But I'd first make sure that the company providing it is legitimate and that they have a good history with your local Porsche dealer. My dealer has had third party warranty companies that ranged form very good to others that the customer had to fight with to get reimbursed. Or worse, refused coverage.
I can't help you on a 2002 Boxster S maintenance schedule. I just took my 2005 911 in for a 1 year / 10,700 mile oil change. (Owner's Manual says first service is 2 yrs/ 20k, but I just couldn't wait that long). Cost me $240, with 10 quarts of 0W40 Mobil 1. The full 2 year maintenance will run me around $600. But, so far, brakes, tires, and everything else look good. Call your local dealer and ask about both the warranty company and the maintenance schedule.
Do you think 4,000 is too high for normal driving? Will it have any impact on the longevity or maintenance cost of the engine? "
Not a stupid question at all. I've had my Boxter S for almost two years and have been very happy with it. As for shifting, to be honest, I never look at the tach and RPMs. I just go by feel and sound but never race anyone. Though I do drive fairly hard, I don't hold RPMs or try to max them for the fasted launch.
Is this a problem all model year Boxsters are known for, or is it more common in some than in others?
If you really want to stow the car away for 2-3+ months, there are various recommendations I have heard. But I've never done that myself, so I'll let others chime in.
As to your battery, you should check on a battery maintainer specifically designed for Porsche, they usually plug into the lighter socket. Your driver-side door probably has a notch in the gasket for the power cord.
As always, driving your car frequently with a certain amount of abandon is the very best PM for both you and the car!!!
Andy
Thanks,
Andy
Anyone have the same problem? Any ideas what it might be?
Get this car flatbedded to your dealership by roadside assistance immediately. You really don't want a bunch of Edmunds forum posters doing diagnostic speculation.
O.K. jgboxcat, since you don't know how to spell the name of your purported new car, give us any credible reason to believe your "spoofy" story. :confuse:
Now the car has 12000 miles on it and in general things are running fine. Earlier this week I went to another dealer for some rattling noise fix, and from their invoice I suddenly realized that the warranty has kicked in since May 2005, 6 month earlier than I actually purchased the car!
I am somehow disappointed because I think I am deceived by the dealer. Had I known that it is a demo with only 42 month of warranty left, I definitely would have negotiated the price even lower. I contacted the sales guy and he is trying to downplay the fact that they didn't tell me it was a demo. He said he is going to give me a call after talking to his manager but two days have gone by and I haven't heard a word from them.
Are there any actions that I can take right now? Suggestions are appreciated.
DL
Thanks,
DL
My "new" 2005 911 had almost 50 miles on the odometer when I took delivery in September 2005. They had let me, and I suspect a few others, test drive it in the month or two between arrival and my purchase. My in-service date for warranty purposes is the day I actually took delivery.
I was also under the impression that a "demo" is not a pre-owned car and that the "in service" date with respect to the factory warranty is when you, the buyer, actually purchase it. At least that's what I was told by another dealer that had tried to sell me a true demo - with almost 600 miles on the odometer.
I'm not a lawyer and have no idea if you still have any legal recourse. But I'd get on the phone or in front of the sales manager or general manager. Losing 6 months of warranty coverage is a serious issue and the whole situation smells fishy. If you don't get satisfaction - whatever that is - contact Porsche customer service.
Test drove a 07 Boxster the other day. While I'm impressed with the smooth ride of it, I'd like to know how I can up-shift smoothly.
I've been driving a 5-speed car for over 6 years and I'm still wondering how I can achieve smooth up-shifting consistently
I usually rev up to 2500-3000rpm before shifting into the next gear up. However, I often feel the jerky engagement of the clutch and saw the passenage's head moving forward.
Is there any way you can drive a 5-speed stick as smoothly as an auto transmission? What's the normal shifting point from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc. - RPMs?
Do I need to 'rev up' the throttle before putting into the next gear up (like one would do in the heel-toe downshifting)? If so, rev up how much more rpm - 1,000rpm?
I know many people can drive the stick shift smoothly. Can you share your techniques and skills? Thank you.
Richard
For upshifting, non-sporty driving, shift at about 4,000 without the need to double clutch. Just push in the clutch and upshift immediately but not so quickly as to force the synchro. I do find that the Boxster engine slows down very quickly when the gas pedal is released, so you have to give some gas while letting the clutch out for smoothness. I suggested 4,000 because the Boxster engine revs so freely that at 4,000 the engine does not seem at all stressed. Even racing you don't have to double clutch with gas in between for upshifting. For racing upshifts you'd want to go to redline (or near it, as some purist will have analyzed the h.p. / torque curves for the optimum rpm) and upshift quickly but not so fast as to force the synchro.
For downshifting, non-sporty driving, I suggest experiment without double clutching; just pause before downshifting and then move the shift lever without applying a lot of force against the synchromesh, and remember to give some gas while letting the clutch out, for smoothness. If there's a lot of resistance from the synchro, then you have to double clutch, giving enough gas to raise the rpm to match the lower gear to the car speed. A lot would depend on the rpm from which you're downshifting. Of course you don't want to downshift from such a high rpm that the engine would be over-revved when you let the clutch out in the lower gear. Your owner's manual shows the speed vs rpm in each gear.
For racing downshifts you'll be braking while downshifting, and you want to downshift as fast as feasible, so you must heel-and-toe, giving gas while braking with the clutch in. I've raced a 912 for which the brake and gas pedals are well located for heel-and-toe, but I haven't raced my '99 Boxster, and (based on just one trial) find the pedals not so well located for that.
I apologize if I went too far in my thoughts.
Thanks.
- Jim