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Porsche Boxster and Boxster S

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  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    I would modify that 10-15 minutes every few weeks to 20+ minutes every 2 weeks, assuming the battery is relatively new/strong. I have gone as long as 10-12 days without driving my 911 and there was no problem with start up. But I've heard of others that find the battery dead in 3-4 weeks. And it can get drained so far that it won't take a recharge. Twenty minutes or more of driving in (presumably) colder weather is also good to get the engine oil and parts competely warmed up. Ten minutes won't do that in my 911 (9+ quarts of oil).

    If you really want to stow the car away for 2-3+ months, there are various recommendations I have heard. But I've never done that myself, so I'll let others chime in.
  • drjamesdrjames Posts: 274
    hey habitat1, thanks for your input. The point about the battery is definately worth consideration. But, it's the lubrication and first start up of a 'dry' engine that worries me the most. All the snow is gone again, and the next few weeks seem to be warm.. so who, knows.. maybe I won't be putting it away afterall.
  • Assuming you are using Porsche approved synthetic oil with a viscosity of 0W-40, you should have no cold-start problems resulting from a "dry" engine as you put it. The 0W syn oil is designed to flow immediately in these conditions, remember it gets very cold in Germany too! You may experience a short blast of dense white smoke at start-up. This occasional behavior is consistent with boxer design engines.

    As to your battery, you should check on a battery maintainer specifically designed for Porsche, they usually plug into the lighter socket. Your driver-side door probably has a notch in the gasket for the power cord.

    As always, driving your car frequently with a certain amount of abandon is the very best PM for both you and the car!!!
  • andysdandysd Posts: 87
    On impulse a couple of weeks ago I bought a ’99 Boxster from a San Diego Union ad - cheap price, 57,000 miles, and then got Eibach lowering springs, Bilsteins, new front brake rotors, brake pads all around, 4-wheel zero tolerance competition alignment, new front 225-45/17 Yoko Advan Neova tires, plus new rear window and a few other things including Mobil I oil change, brake fluid flush, and air filter. The 255/50-17 Pilot Sports on the rear are still good. The car has some good options – power seats with memory for the driver’s, Porsche premium sound, aluminum look gauge dials, and automatic climate control. I don’t know if they’re options, but it also has side airbags and cruise control. It’s black with gray leather. Engine and rest passed inspection. The water pump seals are dry, often a problem I was told with Boxsters of this vintage and miles. I’m not sure what interest any of this is to you, but I had to share my enthusiasm of having a Porsche again – my fourth. The first was a white ’57 Speedster 1600 Super with chrome wheels bought new (obviously I’m not exactly young), fast forward 42 years to a ’67 912 that I autocrossed from 1999 through 2004 when the engine cratered, and a ’95 silver 993 I owned for just six months in 2000 (but I found that concurrently owning four cars (a ’94 C280, a much-improved ‘99 red/black Z28 which I still have, the 912, and the 993) were too many with a two-car garage. Since I was dedicated to autocrossing the 912, I regretfully sold the 993. Now I’m really thrilled to have another open car, which we drive with the top down and the heater blowing just as we did the Speedster 49 years ago. As I recall, the Speedster’s heater was like the Beetle’s with a knob you screwed out for heat. On request I’ll email photos of the two open Porsches with the same gal in the driver’s seat. Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose.
  • andysdandysd Posts: 87
    Just to correct a minor error in my posting: the rear tire size is of course 255/40-17. (Ever have thoughts like this occur to you during the night?)
    Andy
  • andysdandysd Posts: 87
    Hi DL - Never heard of it, but will check it out with the tech who inspected it, the one who did all the work (different shop), and the Sales Manager of one of the two San Diego Premier Porsche dealers with whom I corresponded about the purchase. None mentioned such a thing.
    Thanks,
    Andy
  • Hi Everyone - I just got a brand new Boxter 2007 - and just went past the 1000 miles mark (was very cautious to break in well) and today when I drove it (40mph at most for about 20 minutes) I came home and it had this terrible burning, smoking smell and now it says the TPC monitoring is inactive. The onboard computer seems to indicate that the tire pressure is off - but why the terrible burning smell? I literally had to leave it in my driveway to air it out. I also have smelled a oily smell many times while driving the car.

    Anyone have the same problem? Any ideas what it might be?
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    "but why the terrible burning smell? I literally had to leave it in my driveway to air it out. I also have smelled a oily smell many times while driving the car."

    Get this car flatbedded to your dealership by roadside assistance immediately. You really don't want a bunch of Edmunds forum posters doing diagnostic speculation.
  • andysdandysd Posts: 87
    Has this story about the "Boxter" brought the word spoof to your mind?
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    Damn, why didn't I catch that? :surprise:

    O.K. jgboxcat, since you don't know how to spell the name of your purported new car, give us any credible reason to believe your "spoofy" story. :confuse:
  • I bought a 'new' 2005 Boxster back in November 2005 with what I thought a good price - $7000 off MSRP $48000. The car had 46 miles on it and about two weeks later the dealer called me up to sign a letter indicating that the car was a demo, but nothing else was elaborated by the letter or the sales agent.

    Now the car has 12000 miles on it and in general things are running fine. Earlier this week I went to another dealer for some rattling noise fix, and from their invoice I suddenly realized that the warranty has kicked in since May 2005, 6 month earlier than I actually purchased the car!

    I am somehow disappointed because I think I am deceived by the dealer. Had I known that it is a demo with only 42 month of warranty left, I definitely would have negotiated the price even lower. I contacted the sales guy and he is trying to downplay the fact that they didn't tell me it was a demo. He said he is going to give me a call after talking to his manager but two days have gone by and I haven't heard a word from them.

    Are there any actions that I can take right now? Suggestions are appreciated.
  • dl7265dl7265 Posts: 1,381
    I appoligize I deleted the post. I belive it was 98'early '99 models that were effected. I realized my error after my post.

    DL
  • dl7265dl7265 Posts: 1,381
    Ok, a friend is about to upgrade to a '07 S model. He has offered to me his 2003 with 13k miles. At a very fair price I might add according to my research. The only recall I have found is for some shift linkage on a Tip model, which this happens to be. With the warranty expiring soon I wonder if I should start a "transmission fund" just in case. Any idea how durable these units are?

    Thanks,
    DL
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    That's an odd set of circumstances for your car. A demo that in 6 months only got 46 miles on the odometer? What were they "demo-ing" - how well the car handles in reverse? :confuse:

    My "new" 2005 911 had almost 50 miles on the odometer when I took delivery in September 2005. They had let me, and I suspect a few others, test drive it in the month or two between arrival and my purchase. My in-service date for warranty purposes is the day I actually took delivery.

    I was also under the impression that a "demo" is not a pre-owned car and that the "in service" date with respect to the factory warranty is when you, the buyer, actually purchase it. At least that's what I was told by another dealer that had tried to sell me a true demo - with almost 600 miles on the odometer.

    I'm not a lawyer and have no idea if you still have any legal recourse. But I'd get on the phone or in front of the sales manager or general manager. Losing 6 months of warranty coverage is a serious issue and the whole situation smells fishy. If you don't get satisfaction - whatever that is - contact Porsche customer service.
  • Hey Everyone - Trust me, I just spell badly (you guys crack me up)! The TPC warning light went on - and then the info message said "TPC inactive learning" - but my wheels looked fine - so anyway, drove it to the dealership and en route, the light went off! Anyway, my dealer didn't know what the TPC Inactive - learning message meant (does anyone know? I was sort of assuming it was doing some sort of measuring - is that it?) My dealer also said the smokey smell is normal if the clutch was revved too much - which is what happened - my brother in law took it for a ride around the block. Geezzz..I almost had a heart attack - no more other drivers in my new car!
  • Techniques Needed - How to Up-Shift Smoothly on the 5-speed Boxster?

    Test drove a 07 Boxster the other day. While I'm impressed with the smooth ride of it, I'd like to know how I can up-shift smoothly.

    I've been driving a 5-speed car for over 6 years and I'm still wondering how I can achieve smooth up-shifting consistently

    I usually rev up to 2500-3000rpm before shifting into the next gear up. However, I often feel the jerky engagement of the clutch and saw the passenage's head moving forward.

    Is there any way you can drive a 5-speed stick as smoothly as an auto transmission? What's the normal shifting point from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc. - RPMs?

    Do I need to 'rev up' the throttle before putting into the next gear up (like one would do in the heel-toe downshifting)? If so, rev up how much more rpm - 1,000rpm?

    I know many people can drive the stick shift smoothly. Can you share your techniques and skills? Thank you.

    Richard
  • andysdandysd Posts: 87
    No doubt someone will disagree, but I suggest:

    For upshifting, non-sporty driving, shift at about 4,000 without the need to double clutch. Just push in the clutch and upshift immediately but not so quickly as to force the synchro. I do find that the Boxster engine slows down very quickly when the gas pedal is released, so you have to give some gas while letting the clutch out for smoothness. I suggested 4,000 because the Boxster engine revs so freely that at 4,000 the engine does not seem at all stressed. Even racing you don't have to double clutch with gas in between for upshifting. For racing upshifts you'd want to go to redline (or near it, as some purist will have analyzed the h.p. / torque curves for the optimum rpm) and upshift quickly but not so fast as to force the synchro.

    For downshifting, non-sporty driving, I suggest experiment without double clutching; just pause before downshifting and then move the shift lever without applying a lot of force against the synchromesh, and remember to give some gas while letting the clutch out, for smoothness. If there's a lot of resistance from the synchro, then you have to double clutch, giving enough gas to raise the rpm to match the lower gear to the car speed. A lot would depend on the rpm from which you're downshifting. Of course you don't want to downshift from such a high rpm that the engine would be over-revved when you let the clutch out in the lower gear. Your owner's manual shows the speed vs rpm in each gear.

    For racing downshifts you'll be braking while downshifting, and you want to downshift as fast as feasible, so you must heel-and-toe, giving gas while braking with the clutch in. I've raced a 912 for which the brake and gas pedals are well located for heel-and-toe, but I haven't raced my '99 Boxster, and (based on just one trial) find the pedals not so well located for that.

    I apologize if I went too far in my thoughts.
  • i bought a leftover 2003 in feb 2004, great price (car had 60 miles on it). was told it was new and that was normal mileage for a new car. after my first service i discovered that the warranty clock had started 18 months earlier! without re hashing my experience with the dealer on this... suffice to say i called porsche customer service and they assigned a "case worker. they fixed the issue(after i sent them all the paperwork - title and new car invoice) and i now go to a new dealer. hope this helps
  • Thanks for sharing your experience. I will contact porsche customer service and see how things go.
  • Has anyone ever owned or seen a Speed Yellow Boxster with Sand Beige interior? (or any interior other than Black) If so, how did it look??
    Thanks.

    - Jim
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