Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





BMW 1-Series

1848586878890»

Comments

  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,652
    Now that I think about it you're probably right...the rubber wears down after a while anyway (sooner for some...) so it must be able to handle the small variances.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,887
    I ran 3 different sizes in my time with my 135. Never an issue (other than having to roll the fenders for the largest, but that's a different problem altogether). I even ran taller tires in the back than the front. As long as both tires on each axle are the same, the sensors don't care. They only look for left and right to be turning at different speeds before things like ABS and TCS will kick in and try to correct.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • thank you all.
    what you mean "the rubber wears down"?
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,652
    That your tires are getting smaller and smaller as your tread wears down.

    Not really all that much (not like on the Flintstones...), but that's why you rotate your tires to make them wear even (unless you have directional tires).
  • I'm interested in the tire size you used, requiring rolled fenders . . . I've done some performance modifications to my 135i E88 and the 245/18's break loose quite readily with DC transmission in "M1"
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,887
    edited November 2013
    Sorry, I probably should have mentioned that was aftermarket wheels, as well, with more aggressive offsets than factory. With +45 offset, I would have been able to run 255s with rolled fenders and full negative camber. I also ran 235/35 all around on the stock wheels for winters, and 235/50 rears with 225/50 fronts on the aforementioned aftermarket wheels.

    The size of the tire is only part of the traction equation, of course. If you are talking about the stock runflats, they would break away easy even if they were 300 wide. haha.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • After 85K miles my 1 series has started to give me trouble with backfire so I decided it was time to replace the spark plugs and coils. The dealer replaced one coil for $300 and when I started having the problem again, I decided it was time to change them all. OMG! Talk about a car designed to discourage you from working on it! To take the engine cover off there are four bolts, only two are accessible. To get to the back two bolts I had to remove the air filter housing, two attached wiring runs and trays and the main tray that runs across the car near the windshield. Changing the coils and plugs was EASY... but getting access to the area... WOW!

  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 3,206

    @ePaterline said: OMG! Talk about a car designed to discourage you from working on it! Changing the coils and plugs was EASY... but getting access to the area... WOW!

    Your car may be a little too old, but the newer BMWs have to be taken to the dealer to have the battery replaced -- something to do with synchronizing the battery with the ECU. This is just the most recent of the 5 or 6 things that make me never want to own a BMW made after about 2005. Where I live batteries fail regularly, and replacing one is a 45-minute exercise involving a trip to the local Auto Zone and a quick R & R of the offending unit.

    BMW is most of the way to a hermetically sealed engine compartment that is "not user serviceable."

Sign In or Register to comment.