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Repair and keep it or unload it?

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Comments

  • Then what needs to be done to this neglected car? Only what you wrote in this post: Mr_Shiftright "Experience storing a car?" Aug 19, 2002 2:32pm ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,050
    I think those things but also we have to factor in the cosmetic condition of the car when deciding whether to hold 'em or fold 'em.

    RECENT EXAMPLE:

    I've been shopping for a second car for my summer place. Well I go look at this Subaru Legacy AWD wagon, right? It needs a clutch, the paint is peeling, and the right door is dented badly enough that it won't open. No radio, needs tires, a/c not working This is a circa 1990 car.

    To me, this car is ready for the scrapyard, because I could just go out and buy a perfectly decent example for $2,500. This car isn't worth $100 dollars, much less the $1,000 asking price.

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  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    because the parts are in an easy-transport container. but in hillbilly condition, the value of any car is what the junkyard is paying, if anything, when they come to tow it off.
  • abc128abc128 Posts: 1
    I bought a brand new 1999 A4 (back in 99) and it now has just under 51K miles. I have been religious about maintenance. Never had an accident. Never had a speeding ticket! Right after the warranty was up I had to replace the brake roters (sp?) and all four tires. Now, my airbag light is on and the car is giving me whiplash as it shifts into 2nd and 3rd. Dealership says I need a new transmission for $6500 and the airbag module needs to be replaced for $800. I asked the Corp. to pay for it all since it seems to me to be a defect in the car considering I haven't done anything to the car. They want me to pay $500 to diagnose the problem and maybe they'll pay for half of the repair cost. Am I wrong to think I shouldn't pay for any of this? Should a transmission go on any car much less an Audi at 50K miles?? Any advice on how to proceed with the dealership, the repairs, a fight with the Corporation? I have not authorized the diagnosis yet -- waiting for some help. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,050
    You can't "fight" with the factory because you are out of warranty. Anything they do for you is already a favor. They don't owe you anything according to the warranty contract.

    However...you can "negotiate" with them and work out a give and take that might save you a bundle of money.

    I don't see why a diagnosis should cost $500 unless they mean a "teardown" to determine the exact cause of the transmission malady. This is RISKY, however, unless you've worked out an agreement about WHEN and IF and WHY you pay this much $$$ or they pay that much $$$. The LAST thing you want is to have your transmission lying in pieces on the floor and someone saying "nope, it's all YOUR fault. What do you want to do next?"

    If you got a 50-50 deal on the transmission, I'd accept it if I were you. If your trans went at 150K, you probably would accept that. So you got 1/3 of a lifetime of use, and that is worth something. You've received some use, in other words, on this component---you got 1/3rd your money's worth on that trans. So I don't see why you shouldn't fork up at least 1/3 the cost.

    By the way, who is coming up with the RIDICULOUS price of $6,500 for a transmission? That's another thing you have to clear up and negotiate.

    If they double the price and then pay half, well you've just been suckered.

    I'd advise you to get to your homework regarding actual costs and very precise stipulations as to how this "factory participation" is to proceed.

    If none of this works to your liking, you could hire an attorney and ask legal counsel, but quite frankly I don't see as you have a legal case, in my own amateur opinion on warranties. If you are out of warranty on time and on mileage, and this has no concern for emissions issues, I don't see how you have any legal claim here. Ditto the airbag issue.

    I'm not saying this is pleasant or the "norm", but I think every good negotiation starts with looking soberly at the facts of what you do and do not have going for you.

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  • cutehumorcutehumor Posts: 137
    have you had the transmission fluid and filter changed? if not, I would invest in a $100 dollar service before sinking in a ton of money. not sure, but most manufacturers have a powertrain warranty of 5 years/ 60k on the engine and transmission. I would investigate that if they cover it and yes $6500 is way too high for a transmission.
  • gobabygogobabygo Posts: 1
    I drive a 1990 Audi 200 with over 220,000 miles on it and have had it since almost new. While an Audi may be more expensive to maintain, it will give you years of driving pleasure, not to mention safety. I still enjoy driving my car. It feels solid, runs great, no squeaks or rattles, and looks almost like it did when I bought it 11 years ago, even though it has spent its entire life outside. I have done regular maintenance, but nothing overboard, and drive it hard. This car has had two major accidents and certainly saved me from serious injury the first time. I bet your A4 has at least another 150,000 of great driving left in it. Get a second opinion on the transmission, preferably from an Audi specialist not affiliated with a dealer. 6500 is just plain crazy. I say keep it, drive it, love it!
  • hansiennahansienna Posts: 2,312
    Reading in this forum reinforces my opinion that Toyota reliability is a fact and not fiction. I could not afford to drive a German or British car.
        How can any vehicle be fun to drive when it is chewing up your bank account?
        Perhaps it is better to repair one of these money bottomless pits as a new one will soon cost as much to keep repaired as an older one.
  • hansiennahansienna Posts: 2,312
    My first car, a 1964 VW Beetle, was very reliable, cheap transportation. By 1976, VW reliability had nose dived so I kept the 1976 VW Bus only 4 years trading it in on a 1980 Chevy Van that served us far longer than did the 76 VW.
        My opinion of German cars is much different than it was until we got that 76 VW Bus. Toyotas have been as reliable as was that 64 VW Beetle. The most recent purchase, 2001 Chevy Blazer had a very expensive repair that was mostly covered under the extended warranty. Never did have a major problem with any Toyota.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    and not only because of the infamous $900 mufflers. I have had good luck with domestics since 1971, and figure on staying with 'em. besides, I can cuss 'em in their own language, and we all know that counts for another 2 or 3 HP when it really counts ;)
  • hansiennahansienna Posts: 2,312
    Two reasons:
        #1. German cars require expensive routine maintenance.
        #2. Most dealers of German cars are arrogant and feel they have a right to rip off the public with expensive repairs.
        Volkswagens were initially cheap transportation but the dealers charged so much for routine maintenance and repairs that it often cost more to drive a VW than a Cadillac since any money saved in fuel economy was quickly gobbled up by the maintenance and repairs.
        Too bad domestic reliability took a nose dive in the 70's.
  • craigoncraigon Posts: 8
    In reponse to Audiman posts 28,29,30.

    This happended to my A4 timing belt at 84,000 miles, 6000 befoer it is recommended to change the belt.

    I need a new cylinder head & valves totalling $3000.

    Let me know if audi gave you any help with the repairs.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,050
    YOu know, it's a free market. If all German cars sucked and all German dealers were scoundrels, then all German car dealers would be out of work drinking beers in cheap bars with Renault, Fiat and Yugo dealers.

    Obviously, the majority of the public is satisfied and the technology, styling and driving superiority of German cars seems to be enough to outweigh Toyota's advantage in reliability stats.

    Truth is, car buying is as much emotional and psychological as it is logical. Japanese cars just bore some people to tears and they want no part of them.

    This is probably why serial-production Japanese cars have never become significant, first-tier, high dollar collectible cars despite 35+ years of being in America. Once they seriously fail, or are badly cracked up, they are generally destroyed.

    I think people are more apt to repair a European car and more apt to unload a Japanese or American one (with a few exceptions) once a major repair looms. That's been my experience in the appraisal business these many years anyway.

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  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    we could also have a bad run or two of belts, too. but.... NAH, nothing like, say, ignition coils or window cranks ever gets made badly, right?

    everything has a weak point. congratulations on finding another one. sure stinks when it isn't something like the decal won't stay on the front of the cupholder, and it's serious enough to stop the engine.
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