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Chrysler Pacifica: Care & Maintenance

revkarevka Posts: 1,750
edited March 20 in Chrysler
Here is the new place to discuss Chrysler Pacifica maintenance & repair issues. If you're experiencing a problem with your Pacifica or have insights to offer others, regarding maintenance & repair issues, post your messages here.

Please note: this is not the place to bash the Pacifica or to discuss overall Chrysler reliability vs other makes/models. This discussion is intended as a place of support/help for Chrysler Pacifica owners. In accordance with our Member Agreement Guidelines, off topic posts will be subject to automatic deletion.

Thanks for your participation! ;-)

Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
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Comments

  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    Be sure to check out the Helpful Links on the left side of the page, where you'll find direct access to our main Chrysler Pacifica discussion.

    Keep your eyes open for other helpful links (i.e. Edmunds' Maintenance Guide) soon to be added to that area. And now, back to the subject of Chrysler Pacifica Maintenance & Repair issues.

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • jerrykohjerrykoh Posts: 15
    Got a call from my dealer's service manager this morning. Told me about a new gearshift program for the pacifica that they will be getting sometime next week - wanted to see if i was available late next week to bring the car in for "programming". He didn't have details on the upgrade, but seemed pretty excited about it - it seems that i'm one of the first few pacifica owners and they wanted to make sure i was taken care of :) (umm.. does it sound like i'm being used as a guniea pig?)
  • russklassrussklass Posts: 389
    Chrysler saw fit to omit the attractive ehaust tip as shown on the Pacifica concept.
    I found a very good one at stylinconcepts.com.
    It is a resonator tip, 2.75" inlet, 3.5" outlet.
    The tip fills the factory valence notch beautifully.
    The attaching end is black, so it does not look like an aftermarket tip.
    The tip is made by Pilot, the item # is PM522, and it sells for $24.95.
  • patty64patty64 Posts: 22
    My Pacifica is one week old. I've discovered the following problems: Has anyone else experienced these?

    radio static, staticky tweeter, knocking noise when switching from drive to neutral, reverse, etc, can't program homelink. By the way, there is no way to bypass electronic liftgate - seems like an accident waiting to happen?
  • oedipus1608oedipus1608 Posts: 76
    Radio Static-The radio in the Pacifica prefers strong signals
    Knocking Noise-?
    Homelink-?
    Electronic Lift Gate-No bypass is needed since the liftgat automatically stops and reverses when it detects an object. The liftgate is also very gentle when it closes.
  • b25nutb25nut Templeton, CAPosts: 199
    Radio static when I'm near power lines is the only one of the problems I've experienced. The Pacifica should probably get an antenna like the one on the RX330 instead of the one placed in the rear window. The liftgate will operate only in park and will stop with any resistance. Why would this be a safety problem?
  • russklassrussklass Posts: 389
    Read the owners manual!
    Some newer garage door openers use a "rolling code" technology which is more involved to program. The owners manual has suggestions, and a phone # to call if you are still having trouble.
    Also: Radio reception may just be weak on AM, which is a waste on the 5.1 digital sound system.
    By the way, the liftgate may be operated manually; just squeeze the rubber covered release under the exterior handle.
  • patty64patty64 Posts: 22
    As for the FM radio reception I figured out that it requires a strong signal (unless there is a problem with the tuner itself). My point was that it is a shame that my 2 other Chryslers, T&C and Grand Voyager, never had radio reception problems. How did Chrysler screw this up? Maybe it's because the antenna is inside the rear side window? I was very disappointed about this. I'm not sure that replacing the radio will help if the problem lies within the design of the antenna. Any advice?
  • patty64patty64 Posts: 22
    Anyone else notice a strange noise when switching gears (park-neutral-drive-neutral-reverse)?
  • patty64patty64 Posts: 22
    I realize that the liftgate will reverse if it encounters resistance. I'm just not sure if it's possible to get scratched or dented before reversing itself. The back of the garage wall is against the rear hatch and there is a shelf right above it.
  • b25nutb25nut Templeton, CAPosts: 199
    I only open or close my liftgate manually when I'm in the garage.
  • patty64patty64 Posts: 22
    Hi b25nut,

    But how do you bypass the remote liftgate? I looked in the manual and couldn't find anything. My wife has already set it off twice by accident - the liftgate button is the largest one on the remote.
  • russklassrussklass Posts: 389
    If you push the liftgate button accidentally, just push it again and the liftgate will reverse & lock.
    Everything new takes a while to get used to!
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    from the Wagon's Board to the Maintenance & Repair Message board. This means you can now access this discussion from either one of these message boards. Hope this is helpful.

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • rever2rever2 Posts: 15
    My Pacifica is now one month old, with 1100 miles. I do not hear any noise when changing gears. I am using 89 octane fuel, and am getting about 18 MPG on highway and a little city driving. Is anybody using 87 with good results?
  • russklassrussklass Posts: 389
    I also have 1,100 miles on mine, and have been using 87 octane.
    I used nothing but 87 in both my 300Ms and they ran fine.
  • russklassrussklass Posts: 389
    This board has been so slow, I thought we might liven it up by publishing some features of the Pacifica we have discovered since taking delivery.
    I'll start with:
    Did you know?
    When the EVIC is set to turn on the headlights when the wipers are activated during daylight, the sysyem will delay dimming the instruments until it gets dark.

    Who's next?
  • b25nutb25nut Templeton, CAPosts: 199
    Patty64, make sure the keyless remote is in the Button Delay mode (Pg. 19 in manual). This way the button has to be held down deliberately before the liftgate is activated. As far as the headlights being used in daytime, I have my instrument panel lights set so they don't dim when the headlights are on (I like bright lights at night); however, that means I have no visual indication that the headlights are coming on in the wiper-activated mode (unless I want to get out and check them).
  • rever2rever2 Posts: 15
    You can easily tell if you lights are on, by turning the fog lights on. The fog lights will only come on if the low beam headlights are on. When the fog lights are on the green fog lamp indicator lights on the dash. If it's comes on your lights are on... An other way is turn the high beams on, if the blue indicator stays on after you release the stalk your lights are on.
  • rever2rever2 Posts: 15
    I want to put some thing on the top of my dash to protect it from the sun. I can't decide if the material is leather or vinyl, and what to use to protect it.
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Posts: 648
    more then likely its Vinyl... the best thing I have used, I just found is stuff from Lexol (call Vynol ... works great) better then armour all (not as shiney but last and seems to bond better)

    http://www.lexol.com/vinindex.html

    great stuff and Lexol is great if you have leather .. you find it usually at some of the Luxery car dealers but I think you can get it at Target Stores
  • ms_mayorms_mayor Posts: 113
    Hope someone can give me some advice here.

    The service schedule on my Pacifica calls for the first oil change at 6,000 for the type of driving I do. The 'sticker' the dealer put on my windshield for my first service calls for 4,000 miles. I've read here on the boards that some are changing their first oil well before that.

    I've got 700 miles on the odometer right now. What's the best recommendation you all can make for the timing of the first oil change?

    BTW, it seems to me that waiting until 6,000 is just too long...my old Volvo recommended every 5,000 and I even thought that was a bit much and usually went in after 3,500-4,000.

    Thanks!
  • b25nutb25nut Templeton, CAPosts: 199
    I changed my oil at 3100 miles. I plan on changing it at every 4000-4500 miles for at least the next ten years.
  • pssimonpssimon Posts: 143
    Its interesting that you bring this up. I was going to as well. I would say that at least 2/3 of my driving is highway driving. This yields a few benefits, not the least of which is that brakes last forever.

    Anyway, my dealer told me I should use "Schedule B" for maintenance which is service every 3000 miles. I traded in a 1993 Eagle Vision. It also had the 3.5L engine. As I remember it was scheduled for oil changes every 6000 miles, and that was from 10 years ago. I always did change the oil between 3 and 4000 miles, so in effect I was doing what my dealer suggested. My point is that with the other car I was told I could do the changes every 6K and I chose to do it every 3K. Now I am being told to do it every 3K.

    Have we gone backwards in technology? Has oil quality gone down? Has something changed in the engine? I'm confused.

    I was sort of planning to stick to my 3K-4k changes but am surprised I am being directed to do that... and that my dealer isn't the only one passing on that info.

    What has happened? All thoughts greatly appreciated.
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Posts: 648
    I did mine at 400 miles (right after the break in period) where you were supposed to drive under 50 mphs (its in the manual burried) go figure ... most car manuals breakin period is right up front. Check this out on Break-In from Click and Clack the Car Talk Guys: http://www.bayarea.com/mld/mercurynews/business/industries/automo- tive/6234002.htm

    I figure hmmm $35k car vs $18 oil change (no brainer) ... I did the oil change and then drove the pacifica over the 80 mph point to see how she handles :-) oh by the way I change every 3k to 3.5k miles and always change your filter when changing oil ... unless you dont plan on keep your SUV....
  • ms_mayorms_mayor Posts: 113
    Thanks for your comments. I do think that I will end up changing the first oil long before I hit even 2,000, since I want to get it done before we load up and go on vacation. I'll probably put a good 1,000 miles on at that time, with a lot of highway (read: high speed) driving and want to make sure I'm running with clean oil.

    Oil and filter changes on a regular basis were totally ingrained into my head by my Dad as a teenager. He made us keep a log book in our glove boxes to keep track of MPG statistics and regular maintenance performed. He told me straight off that of all the 'regular' maintenance a car is required to have, I should never, ever skimp on the oil changes. Its the cheapest money I'll ever spend, he always said.

    I think the fact that I drove my very first car over 100K miles, my second almost 100K (totalled thanks to an illegal left turn by a Jeep, and I only had 2 payments left), my third over 100K and my fourth 155K must mean I did something right. Oh...and with each one of these cars? Never needed any major work beyond regular wear and tear stuff.

    With any luck (knocking wood right now) my Pacifica will continue the tradition!
  • pssimonpssimon Posts: 143
    This car is begging for a good coat of wax. Sure, the dealer made it look pretty when I picked it up, but Mother Nature has had other ideas since then. So..... what wax has anyone used on their Pacifica? Of course, I'm looking for the impossible; easy to put on, easy to buff off, and a finish that lasts and lasts!

    Also, what about the lower body sections that are plastic and a different color? Any suggestions for a "coating" for that?

    Anyone want to take a crack at this one?

    Thanks!
  • boiler1boiler1 Posts: 56
    This may sound crazy but I owned a Mercedes Benz CLK320 a couple of years ago that only needed oil changes every 10-12 thousand miles! An indicator came on when service needed to be performed based conditions and your driving style. As a matter of fact, after I'd driven the car for the first 10,000 miles and no indicator, I took it to the dealer thinking there was a problem. The dealer said they wouldn't do the oil service until the "FSS" said it was time which occurred 2500 miles later. I'm sure changing your oil more often than the manufacturer recommends won't hurt anything but I would be surprised if the those recommendations are baseless. I mean why would any car maker ask an owner to do something that might increase warranty costs???
  • mrquispmrquisp Posts: 13
    I know this is off the manufacturer topic, but it relates to oil change. I too owned a Mercedes (1999 ML320). It also had an engine that required an oil change at roughly 10000 miles (could be more, but depended on driving habits). What they didn't that if you did the oil change yourself, a special type of grade of oil had to be used. So happens that a lot of "do it yourselfer's" out there used the wrong type of oil and gunked up their engines. Ended up that there was a class action suit involving the 1999 and 2000 models that extended the warranty to 150000 miles! Point to the story... be sure to read the manual on oil changes and use the recommended oil.
  • I had a 2000 300M on lease, which I recently turned in. My wife has a 2001 300M. I have recently purchased a 2003 300M to replace my lease turn-in.

    The common element among these vehicles and the Pacifica, of course is the 3.5 L engine. Both the 2000 300M and the 2001 300M manuals recommended oil changes at 7,500 miles, I believe. Now, the same engine needs an oil change at 3,000 miles???

    I have always changed my oil at 3,000 miles, so the change doesn't affect my maintenance schedule. My latest long term cars (85 Buick LeSabre and 89 Chevrolet Caprice) achieved 226,000 and 192,000 miles respectively, so I would recommend the 3,000 mile change.

    I am suspicious that Chrysler felt the 7,500 mile change was "good enough" to satisfy the 36,000 mile warranty previously in place. Now that the warranty is 70,000 miles, maybe they want you to take better care of your engine, and perhaps find an out on a warranty claim if you haven't maintained the 3,000 mile schedule.

    This is the only reason I can think of for the recommended schedule change for the same engine...
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