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Chevy Uplander/Pontiac Montana SV6/Saturn Relay/Buick Terraza



  • alastanalastan Posts: 10
    edited January 2011
    My 6yr/90,000 mile bumper-bumper extended warranty on my 05 Buick Terraza is nearly expired. I actually love the van, except for sliding door warning chime issues. Last year I had the door plungers and latches replaced under warranty in both sliding doors, but I've already had issues again. I'd like to be able to keep the car after warranty without having to worry about going to the dealer for sliding door repairs. I'd be happy to just manually open and close the sliding doors, but you can't get around the chime once it rears it's ugly head.

    I've heard the door chime comes through the front stereo speakers and am considering disconnecting the speakers so I won't hear the chime. Does anyone know what other warning signals I will be missing if I do this? Since the backup warning sensor is the same tone, I know I'll lose that. And, I think I'll have to cancel my Onstar subscription since I think that just goes through the front speakers.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,003
    Is there a problem and thats why its making the noise? Or is this just the door ajar chime? I look forward to your response.
    GM Customer Service
  • I assume it's all related to the door issues over the years. Listed below is information from the invoices that I have.

    It's really frustrating that Buick has not provided a solution to the dealers to make their repair last. My preschool age daughter gets scared when she has to hear the door chimes.

    As I said before, my Buick is still under the GM Bumper to Bumper extended warranty I purchased for the van - until December 2011. Is there anything Buick can do for me to get my door issues resolved? I don't feel like I have been made whole since I paid $2,353.84 extra for an extended warranty and I know the sliding door issues will still be here after the warranty expires. It frightens my preschool age child to have to drvie around town hearing a warning chime. I know I can go back to the dealer for a repair, but I am not confident the repair will last.

    6/26/2007 Passenger sliding door would not close – chimed & reversed. Dealer adjusted sliding door cable.

    7/6/2007 Passenger sliding door does not close and reverses. Dealer indicated contacts were not aligned. R-R contacts to clean and resecure and also realign door.

    2/29/2008 Sliding door would not close under power – had to use close manually. Dealer adjusted front and rear of driver's side slider, cleaned contacts, adjusted cables.

    12/29/2009 Driver-side sliding door does not fully close. Chime sounds continuously when driving. Dealer re-programmed sliding door modules. Also, replaced pivot on driver-side sliding door at owner's expense due to corrosion.

    6/10/2010 Driver-side sliding door chimes when all doors are closed. Dealer indicated that they got chime to stop and door was working properly.

    6/16/2010 – 8/4/2010 Driver side sliding door does not close causing chime. Took to different dealer. After multiple returns to dealer, code was registered indicating driver's side sliding door lock actuator faulty. Replaced driver's side sliding door lock actuator. After driver's side door was repaired the passenger sliding door would not fully close. The door lock actuator on the passenger sliding door was also replaced and re-learned.

    10/20/2010 Passenger sliding door would not close. Dealer replaced door lock harness and contact.

    10/29/2010 Driver side sliding door chimed constantly with doors closed. Dealer ordered door lock harness and contact and replaced slider door wiring and plunger on 10/11/2010.

    A week after the 10/29/2010 repair, the passenger sliding door would not close under power and reversed and started chiming again. Since it's such a hassle getting the car to the dealer, we opted to stop using the passenger sliding door. I tried using the door today 2/5/2011 and when it closed, the door chimed constantly when I put the car into gear. It it took 3 times of opening and closing the door in order to get the chime to stop. The driver slide sliding door also had a couple of times today where it reversed upon closing, but I was able to get it to close after a couple of tries. So we are back to not using the passenger sliding door.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239

    Many thanks for posting a thread about GM mini-van power sliding door problems. Back in early 2009, I surfed the net for a new GM mini-van and stumbled across many threads about "bad power sliding doors". Its definitely a "bad pattern" across many different GM mini-van forums. When I bought our new 2009 Montana van, I purposely bought it "without" power sliding doors. And, I purposely bought it "without" electronic load levelling system either (but that's a topic for a different thread).

    Today, my family has a 2009 GM mini-van with "manual" sliding doors. They work and work great. Never had a problem with them. Although, I wished they locked open when van in one a hill - like the dodge mini-van doors do. With this in mind, I need to thank you and many others - for validating my choice in purposely picking manual sliding doors on my GM mini-van.

    With this in mind, would you convert your current "power sliding doors" mini-van to manual sliding door system? If so, will GM do this for you - for free? Sounds drastic but from 1st hand experience, the manual sliding doors work great. Not a single problem with them - on my van...

    Hope this helps - some how....

  • Thanks Spike - Buick didn't produce any manual slider models, but it seems like it should be possible to copy what was done for Chevy and Pontiac's manual sliders. There are overhead switches that you can turn off the power doors in my van to manually open and close them, but the door sensors all remain active and don't deactivate the warning chime.

    Sounds like it might be a good option if possible, but don't know about what Buick would offer to do. Sounds like a good question to Christina of GM customer service with the "free" part of your suggestion being key to the proposal.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    I too am happy that we bought our 2008 Uplander with manual sliding doors...and I too wish that they stayed open when you're facing downhill...

    That being said, our Venture sliding doors stayed open when facing downhill and they have the exact same mechanism soooo...I took the "stopper" apart and found that all I had to do was bend the stop spring a little bit and now ours stay open on hills. The stop spring was a little different shape on the Venture - it had a bigger hump in it to keep the door open. Once I bent it and put the hump in the spring I got our Uplander's doors to stay open too.

    I mentioned the doors to the dealer once and they told me that they're all like that, so I took matters into my own hands. It takes a while to get them right but once you go they're great!
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    edited February 2011
    Many thanks for describing how the factory "stop spring / stopper plate" (????) can be modified - to hold the door open while parked on a small incline. Excellent info-share. If wondering, the lack of proper "safety design" has hurt 2 of the 3 kids. Wife won't park our van facing down hill anymore because of this "lack of" safety issue. re: She doesn't want adults or kids in the rear seats to get hit with the manual doors either.

    Appreciate if you can take a digital picture of your van's modified manual sliding door stopper. Please post the picture on and link to this site, If I can see a "visual" of your van's modification, I will clone the fix on my wife's van. Thus, reducing the risk of hurting others with our van's door sliding shut (when parked on a small incline) as well. I tried to send you my email id (to obtain your future digital picture) but your profile shows your email id as private. Thus, hoping you can link to a future digital picture instead.

    As a side note... I wonder why GM removed this safety feature on the Uplander / Montana product line. If it worked on their previous Venture van and works on other mini-vans (like Dodge line), I wonder why they removed this safety feature from their newer mini-van line? Very strange...

    Many thanks for posting this tip (and future picture - to give us a visual). Great work!!! The less people (espeically our kids) exiting the rear seats who are getting accidentally hurt, the better.

  • Christina,
    Your response sounded like GM Customer Service might be interested in helping with my problem, but I haven't heard anything after I answered your questions. I look forward to your response.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    Hi there 442dude

    I looked at the manual sliding door on my wife's 09 Montana van. As you know, its connected to the van's chassis via 3 connect points. One at the top / front door, one in the middle / rear door and one at the bottom / front door. Just wondering where you modified your doors - to allow it to remain open on a slight incline. re: Top, bottom or rear of the door. Viewing a digital picture of your door's mod would be great as well. re: Visual picture to allow me to better understand how to modify my wife's manual sliding doors - to reduce the future risk of hurting my kids again.

    Many thanks.

  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Hey Spike -

    Sorry for the late reply, been quite a week!


    I'll post a picture later today of the door stop for you. In the meantime:

    The stop is located in the channel at the bottom of the door, towards the rear. I'll mark it on the picture and give you better details.

  • How about sharing with the rest of us?
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    Hi there...

    Sorry to hear you had a "bad week" - last week. Hopefully, this week is going much better for you. When "up for some air", appreciate your future picture. I'm sure maddog appreciates your future diginal picture as well.

  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    My apologies for taking so long...

    Here's the link to the pic: link title

    I noted where the spring is as well as the only bolt that holds the thing on. I couldn't take it apart for the pic so I'll do my best to explain the picture.

    The sliding door is completely open in the pic (open is to the left in this pic), you can see the roller to the left of the photo. The stop only has 1 bolt and is kind of a sandwich of parts. Open and close the door a couple of times and watch where the INSIDE roller contacts the spring on the INSIDE. What should happen is that when the inside roller reaches a certain point, it should roll over the hump in the spring and be caught between the end and the hump in the spring, keeping the door open unless you give it a good pull. Open and close it a few times and watch the spring...even when it doesn't work, you'll see the spring flex a bit as the inside roller goes past the hump.

    BTW - Don't go looking for a coil spring in there, you won't find one...its a "wave spring". Basically a piece of spring steel about 4 inches long and maybe 1/2" wide. The outside piece is NOT the spring, its in the middle of the sandwich.

    The problem is...the hump in the spring is too small to hold back the door. So your goal is to bend the spring to make the hump bigger!

    To do this you need to remove the stop. There's only 1 bolt holding it on. Look and the whole thing carefully before you take the bolt out as one you take it out, the whole thing will likely fall apart - if it doesn't, wiggle it a little bit. To remove it, close the door till the roller is out of the stop assembly and then remove the bolt. The assembly will come apart in 2 pieces: the piece in the photo and the spring behind it. Once you get the spring out, put just the spring in a vise and use pliers and increase the bend in the hump. (You may come up with a better way, that's just how I did it) Then you put it back together and you're done. Be patient, it may take you a couple of tries to get it just right and its a pain to get back in. That;s why its important to take a good look at it BEFORE you take it apart.

    I hope my explanation as well as the accompanying pic help it make sense. Remember...when you're putting it back together, make sure that you have the door 1/2 way closed, just like when you took it apart. Now that you know where the stop is and what it looks like, I think you'll be able to look at it and figure out how to fix it. Good luck - feel free to post questions. :shades:
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    edited February 2011
    Hi 442dude

    Many thanks for providing a picture and in text format, describing the process to appply this mod - to other 2007+ uplander / montana vans with manual sliding doors.

    Your statement of "the hump in the spring is too small to hold back the door. So your goal is to bend the spring to make the hump bigger!" is RIGHT ON.

    Tonight, I removed the protection cover plate and removed the spring (which is a flat small ruler shape piece of steel with a small hump in its middle). As instructed, I used my bench vice and hand held vice grips and created a larger hump (like 1/3 moon shape) in the spring. Re-installed both parts (spring and protection cover) and it works great. The larger hump holds the door open - when van is parked on a slight incline. WOW!!! Such a simple fix. Actually, it's such a simple fix, anyone with a 10mm or 3/8" box socket with 2" extension could implement themselves.

    Many, many thanks for advising how I can apply this mod - to our 2009 Montana's manual sliding doors. And my wife thanks you as well. As she loads / unloads our disabled child, she'll no longer get accidentally nailed by our van's manual sliding doors (that have very poor factory door stop settings).

    We owe both of you for this factory improvement mod...

  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    edited February 2011
    You're VERY Welcome...I'm so happy that I was able to help!!!

    All the best!
  • i bought my 05 relay used. it has had a vibration since i bought it almost 3 years ago. it vibrates the most between 45-65mph. it is also worse while accelerating than when coasting. I've had the brakes changed. I've had the tires changed twice. I've had both wheel bearings changed. I read on this forum a lot about rotars, I don't think those have been changed. One strange thing was noticed today while having the brake pads changed. There is a small screw in one of the 3 little holes on the front driver side rotar, but there is not one on the passenger side.
    Should that screw be there?
    Could the screw or the rotars be causing the vibration while driving?
    Has anyone else had this vibration that seems incurable?
    Please give me feedback.
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    I am not an expert but I have owned several cars over my lifetime. Rotors usually have to do with braking problems. They cause an uneveness in braking when you try to come to a stop. They can usually be shaved but sometimes they need to be replaced. An honest mechanic will tell you.

    In my experience, vibration at higher driving speeds has usually been from tires that are out of balance, especially on front wheel drive vehicles.

    Also, sometimes tires become scalloped (uneven tread wear around the circumference) from lack of proper rotation. The only fix for this is to replace the scalloped tires and then rotate as shown in your manual.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    edited February 2011
    I've not experienced with the problem that you describe but...

    The screw that you refer to is not the source of your actually don't even have to replace it when you do the brake job. The lug nuts hold the rotor in place, the little screw is likely there to hold things together while it goes down the assembly line.

    Bad Rotors only typically cause vibration when you are braking. you don't mention mileage, but I'd be suspect that a strut was bad and your wheel is bouncing..
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    My previous van had a bad vibration when going above 75 kms (45 mph). Its tires were 5 years old and to my surprise, 3 of its tires has shifted belts. Thus, we replaced all 4 tires. Vibration instantly gone.

    As as suggestion, do get the tires inspected / re-balanced. If tires are ok, then get its brake rotors detailed inspected as well...

    Good luck...
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