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Chevrolet Cobalt

16465666870

Comments

  • alternatoralternator Posts: 545
    Bought new 2010 Cobalt last week to replace my 1996 Cavalier.

    Do the hood and trunk struts not "pop up" the hood and trunk lids? Mine only hold the lids up once they have been manually raised.

    Is the 1 1/2 inch diameter plastic disk right above my head the inside temperature sensor?
  • steve333steve333 Posts: 200
    Don't know about the disk but your lids are working properly
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,093
    That disk is your OnStar microphone: big brother is listening? ;)
  • petras2petras2 Posts: 104
    lately the factory alarm on my 09 cobalt has been going off for no reason..usually 10 min to 30 min after the doors are locked and alarm armed with the remote key..the security light is flashing normally and the only way to prevent the alarm from going off to to manually lock the doors, thus not arming the alarm..anyone experience this? thanks
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 545
    Does anyone have any idea as to why GM went to 4-lug wheels on the Cobalt?

    Every car I've owned (starting in 1951) has had 5-lug wheels.

    And very few cars today have 4-lug wheels.
  • Guess What!

    I have a 2010 LT and it has a trunk leak too. Not to mention that I noticed many of the seals around the door windows are not installed properly. I imagine that this car is going to leak like a sive when it downpours for the first time since owning it today.

    My dealer will have a lot to answer to and work on.
  • My mother loves her Cobalt! She gets the biggest kick out of showing it off.

    Off topic: She's in the St. Louis-area got bought it from Johnny Londoff Chevrolet. She can't recommend them enough.
  • located next to the positive terminal of the remote battery connections (under the hood) ?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,093
    It's a large group of fuses and relays. The cover comes off by pressing in on clips on the left and right sides. It's a tight fit to pull it up. Once it's off, the identity of each fuse and relay is imprinted on the underside of the cover you just lifted!

    It's probably shown also in the owners manual in the glovebox.
  • Thanks imidazo. The box location is shown on page 6-14 and the fuses inside are identified on page 6-127. I didn't expect to find that info so far towards the back of the manual !
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 545
    edited November 2010
    Does anyone use the Fram SD4 Sure Drain Oil Drain Plug System for easy draining of oil from their Cobalt ?

    I have previously used this exact plug with great success in my 2005 Cavalier (and an SD-2 plug in my 2002 Mazda)

    Since my new 2010 Cobalt has an Ecotec engine very similar to the 2005 Cavalier, I assumed that the SD4 plug could be used in my Cobalt

    However, Amazon.com says "This product does not fit your 2010 Chevrolet Cobalt"

    Since Fram has sold the Fram Oil Drain Plug business to another party, Fram no longer gives advice on this product

    The Fram SD4 is described as a size M12 x 1.75

    Here's a link to the page that concerns me about whether I should try to use the SD4 Fram oil drain plug in my 2010 Cobalt :

    Amazon.com: Fram SD4 SureDrain Fast Access Oil Change Drain Plug System: Automotive: Reviews, Prices & more

    Notes:

    The Fram system includes (1) drain plug with an internal valve, (2) "valve opener" that screws on to open the valve, (3) 8 inch long piece of tubing to direct the oil flow into a container of your choice and (4) cap that screws onto the plug, providing a seal against the very unlikely event that the valve should leak. The valve opener is removed before you put the cap on.

    Since the valve opener must make several rotations to open the valve, there is a real possibility that the tubing (being rather stiff) may pop off the valve opener and cause a spill. To avoid this you might want to use more flexible tubing. For myself, I do not attach the tubing until I have the valve opener screwed on and I can see a tiny amount of oil beginning to escape.

    This product, along with the up-top oil filter, makes Ecotec engine oil changing especially easy and without a mess. I've used this product for 8 years on two cars, and I recommend it highly.
  • I installed the Fram SD4 Sure Drain Oil Drain Plug System on my 2010 Cobalt and it seems to fit and function just fine. I believe this item has been discontinued, or is close to being discontinued. It's well worth getting one before they are all gone.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    I agree.
    To avoid the expense and weight, they likely grounded it to the chassis nearby at the trunk.

    But the positive cable is a different story. I doubt they used a very heavy gauge of copper cable for the run from the positive terminal to the starter of the engine. Starters have an extremely high amperage demand while starting the engine. More than every other electrical component all added together at the same time.

    So they are prone to slow or no-starts on cold winter mornings (if they cheaped out on a light cable).

    The idea being that the longer the length of a wire, more resistant loss builds up, so voltage and amperage loss happens. Just like using too long and light gauge extension cord at home will get hot and not perform properly on big draw items like lawnmowers or heaters.
    With the car scenario, cold wx temps lowers the efficiency of a battery's crank capacity.
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 545
    edited November 2010
    Now GM has changed their mind and put the battery up front in the Cruze !

    Has anyone had a problem with battery being in the trunk ?
  • Well i have a 2007 Chevy cobalt ss/sc. I've been having a problem with the fuel gauge going from 3/4 tank full to empty telling me fuel low, and problems with a rough idle. It's like a metal clicking noise. But driving down the road very smooth.
  • michelle52michelle52 Posts: 1
    edited February 2011
    i have a 2006 cobalt that cuts off all the time its like its not getting any gas when you crank the car it cuts off if you dont keep ur foot on the gas..when you push in the clutch to stop it cuts off no matter what you have to keep ur foot on the gas to keep the car running....i have changed the fuel filter and that didnt help does anyone have any suggestions......thanks for any help that is given
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,068
    michelle52,
    I would recommend having your vehicle looked at by an authorized GM dealer. Please keep me updated on your progress with this issue.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • steve333steve333 Posts: 200
    Valve deposits?
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 545
    I can get some slack in the spring-loaded cord on the right side of the glove box, but I cannot get the hard plastic piece to disengage. I assume that the "head" inside the box is supposed to move down and pass through the lower, larger hole, but I cannot get it to move down even a little bit. When I read elsewhere about it "snapping" out, is considerable force required to do that?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,093
    On the earlier years, you squeeze in on both sides of the glove box and it drops out of its track. That allows you access to the air filter compartment behind it. I don't remember how the black cable is handled. I just checked the owner manual in the glovebox--page 3-21
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 545
    edited March 2011
    With considerable difficulty I was able to change my cabin air filter (2010 Cobalt Coupe). I couldn't get the spring-loaded cord to detach, which would have helped. The swing down section immediately in front of the filter collided with some heavy wiring that had to be shoved aside (and the swing-down section had to held down with one hand while removing and replacing the filter).

    After I removed the filter I looked inside the cavity. There I was surprised to see some raised sheet metal on the right side, half the height of the opening, a seemingly impassable object in the way of inserting the new filter. In fact, the only way to insert the filter was to angle it upwards at about 45 degrees.

    This is the worst designed item I have yet to see on my Cobalt. There appears to be no ledge for the filter to sit on. Therefore, I believe it is impossible for the filter perimeter to be adequately sealed so as to direct the blower air thru it. Most of the air will bypass the filter.
  • steve333steve333 Posts: 200
    Yes, its a lousy design. It's also hard to figure out which direction the arrow should go in since the filter is so low in the cabin, should it point down or does the air come in below so should it point up? Very odd design.
    At least its easier to install than on the Impala
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 545
    Looks like an "afterthought" doesn't it? If the Impala installation is even harder, it must be nigh impossible!
  • steve333steve333 Posts: 200
    The filter is actually at the front of the engine bay somewhere, you have to pull off the rubber at the base of the windshield. i had a mechanic do it, didnt want to touch it! I do my Cobalt's but when I was pulling down the glovebox the rubberband piece broke off, never to be seen again.
  • steve333steve333 Posts: 200
    Was the arrow on the filter facing up or down?
    I buy a Micron air filter now instead of the GM one, it has a better filter on it. You should see the crap it collects! I change it every year
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 545
    Re that video (which I had seen before) : I could not get that cord to unsnap from the glovebox lid. And in no way could my filter be inserted as shown, because of the sheet metal bulge on the right side (inside the cavity) that absolutely prevented the filter from going straight in.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,851
    A reporter is looking to interview anyone with a GM vehicle that doesn't seem to accurately read fuel levels.
    Please email pr@edmunds.com Friday, April 29, 2011 to share your story.
    Thanks,
    Jeannine

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • dispencer2dispencer2 Posts: 299
    I didn't unsnap the cord -it appears to be impossible anyway. I squeezed the sides of the glovebox and it dropped down far enough for me to unsnap the filter door. The filter seems to go in and up at about a 25 degree angle. The filter is flimsy and you have to be careful when pushing the new one in.
    I had no trouble closing the filter door and the glove box. I have 30k miles on my 09 (bought new in Sept. 08) and the filter was absolutely filthy -couldn't see the sun through it. I'll replace it at 15k from now on. We are in Eastern NM and have a lot of dust and blowing dirt out here. Perhaps in Scarsdale one could get away with changing it at 30k.
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